ROD W

There have been a couple of threads recently regarding difficulty changing gears. I also recently removed a gearbox and clutch from a spare 24 Master engine I have and found the disc linings to be nicely saturated with oil. After reading a post by Dibarlaw in regard to removing oil from saturated disc linings I read my Motor Car Operation and Care manual and it stated to pour 1 to 2 litres of gasoline into the flywheel bell housing and turn the engine over. I think I would want a fire extinguisher close at hand. Included a few Photo,s of a multi disc clutch for those not familiar with them. Pic 2 shows releasing the tension of the spring using clamps. Pic 4 shows the lined disc on the left and the unlined disc on the right, the unlined discs are only 2mm thick and can warp causing a shuddering clutch. The 5 lined clutch discs run on the pins on the flywheel seen in pic 1, and the 5 driven plates that do not have linings run on the clutch hub pic 3. The lined discs are separated by the unlined discs. The spring holds all the plates tightly together so they all spin together, and the cluster gear at the bottom of the gear box continues turning. When the clutch is depressed the unlined driven plates separate from the lined plates and the cluster gear stops or slows turning allowing gear changes. If the clutch plates are saturated or gummed up they don,t separate properly and the driven discs continue spinning. The last pic shows 26 discs which are different to 25 but still operate in the same way. If I have made any errors here please jump in and correct.

gpdc, Firstly you need to get the starter pedal so it is retracting properly. There are three oiling points for the starter shafts and pedal/button. Remove your wooden toe boards so you can get to them. You can see the oil hole in pic 1 for the starter pedal. In pic 5 at the bottom centre you can see the oiling hole for the shaft. There is a spring inside which returns the pedal to the up position (non starting position). The third hole is at the back of the starter /generator, at the top right of pic 5. This is for the shaft that engages and disengages the starter and generator brushes. As you probably know, the stater and generator are one unit. When you turn on the ignition there should be a clicking sound , this is the clutch at the front of the distributor. Remove that plate at the back of the S/G and you can see the brushes. Generator brushes on the small commutator and starter brushes on the large commutator. When the starter pedal is disengaged the gen brushes are engaged and starter brushes disengaged. Get somebody to stomp on the starter pedal and you will see the gen brushes disengage and the starter brushes engage. If this does not happen there is a problem with the linkages. the linkage arm can be seen in pic 4. There is an earlier thread, I think by Hentzee talking about the operation of the brushes. There is also a small black wheel that runs on the starter shaft, which can be seen in pic 4.if this is not turning properly on the shaft it will be more difficult to depress the starter pedal and operate the brush mechanism. As this S/G is out of the car the there is no round shaft. I don,t think 25 had a thermostat I have a newer radiator which has a thermostat pic 3. I think thermostats came out in 27. Mark might let us know if his 24 has one. As far as over heating goes, carry out the steps mentioned in previous posts. When I turn on my ignition switch the amp metre shows a discharge of 10 amps

Hidden hunter, Thats what you need for the gearbox, a heavy oil to slow the gears down, .Penrite Transoil 250 is made for old gearboxes. Go into the Penrite home page and look at their vintage oils

John, There is usually a button in the middle of the float chamber cover, which can be pushed to check that the float chamber is full. When turning my car off, I always turn the vacuum tank off and let the motor run till the float chamber is empty, So when starting I jiggle the button to ensure the float chamber is full. This probably can not be done on the 29 with a mechanical pump. Your float chamber is a different shape to the earlier cars, but on mine the float is 2" wide, X 1 5/8" and 3/4" thick with a 3/16" gap between the float and chamber wall. But if you can pick one up at Bobs, that would be the way to go. A brass screw holds the float onto the arm. You don,t want to restrict the movement of the float up and down as it needs to fully raise to shut off the needle valve

Yes, Mr Earl, The clutch was done in Portland Oregon before heading south

22 coupe, There is only a small hole for lubricating the distributor shaft with a large space around the outside. So you need to make shore there is enough grease filling that gap so the shaft will get lubricated. There is also a notch in the bottom ring ( for want of a better name) so the distributor drive gear and distributor clutch will get lubrication. If the car had not been used for a long time I would remove the distributor and make sure it is properly lubricated. there is only one screw to remove and the distributor lifts out.

Larry, I saw a post about truing up out of round split rims not long back. I think it said heat was the only way. I,ve never tried. I couldn,t get 5.00 X 22" tyres for my 25 back in 1970, so changed the wheels over to 21", from a 26 parts car I had. But then found the axles were different also ( the 26 being a larger axle) Also the ends of the axle that goes into the differential gears (spider gears) is also different, the 25 being square and the 26 having splines. When I removed the differential gears, they were all cracked at the corners of the square. They would,t have lasted much longer. I would say, they changed to the splined axle in 26 because of the failure of these gears in the 25 model.

John, Its just a thin paper gasket under the cover plate, cut a gasket out to the same size as the cover and make a hole in the middle for the button. I don,t use gasket sealent on this.

22 coupe This is a S/G off a 25 Master, which would be very similar to your,s. There are only two bearings a bronze bearing at the back after the commutator and a roller bearing near the distributor, both have oiling points. Pic 1 shows the roller bearing with oil nipple at the top, and the one way clutch for the distributor drive. ( there is also a grease nipple for the distributor shaft) Pic 5 shows the oil nipple for the rear bearing. Try wiping a small amount of vaseline on the cam that opens the points, these can squeak if dry. Ensure the distributor shaft is not dry pic6

jps Your cork and needle valve would look similar to this one. You can make a new cork float or coat the old one with epoxy as per Marks previous post

22Coupe I,m not familiar with the 4 cylinder starter/generator, but if it is the same as the 6, the front bearing may just need oiling. I remove the coil and top plate to make it easier to remove the front plate ( pic 3) When the front cover is removed you can see the hole for oiling bearing in pic 2. only use a small amount of oil , to ensure none goes on the commutator. The 4 cylinder motor,s in 21 and 22 may have commutator,s at the back of the S/G as in the later 4 and 6 cylinder motors. Let me know which yours is. Rod

jps Check the cork float in the float chamber, It may be saturated with fuel and not closing off the needle valve. Take off the float chamber cover and you can see if the float and needle valve are working. Also the electric pump may be too high a pressure. My car also had an electric pump installed when I bought it and it was flooding. Changed it back over to the vacuum tank. I don,t know what pressure the mechanical pump works at on the 29. There is no need to adjust the air screw or the gasoline screw if the car was previously running well.

Its always good to hear a happy ending to a story. Usually with cars it isn,t such an easy or cheap outcome.

Terry After 1918 the 1/4" metal rod inserted in the grommet in the top of the door was used.( last pic). The pocket stitched in the back of the curtain then slid over the metal rod as tramcar says. You can see the stitching in the back of the curtain for the rod in pic 5. There is the split in the curtain, so it doesn,t need unclipping at the top when the door is opened. I could,t find my curtain rods to take a photo of them in the door, but they have two 90 degree bends to bring the curtain to the outside of the door. But when looking at your photo and this other photo of of a D 16 there is the material along the top of the door and no grommet for the steel rod, so I can only assume another method of supporting the curtain was used. Unless it was just clipped on at the top and bottom and it had to be unclipped to open the door.

Just read this thread. My first car was a 25-25 converted for use on the farm. Thats me at 17 taking my father for a drive. It spent many a night down the back paddock, because it wouldn,t start once it was hot.

Reduced the size to install on forum, but now they can,t be enlarged. Trying another one. Photo shopped the top photo,s to improve contrast, but that also changed the size. Can,t win.

Interesting to compare how they removed rear axles in 1930, to how it is done today

terge, The Master hinges are are different to the Standard hinges. They are not interchangeable. They would be difficult to make, there is shore to be someone who will have some for sale

hidden hunter, Some bumpers used the three round, like these rear ones.

Glen, Mine are left and right, but then they have the bracket coming off the side. Yours doesn,t seem to have this bracket. But Leif,s scan of the H and K, which are very similar to the E. says there is a left and right. Mine is a roadster so the holder is shorter than yours.

There were 3,835 Master Sport Roadster Model 28-54, built for domestic sales and 85 for export, and 4,513 Model 28-24 Standard Sport Roadster built for domestic and 251 for export. Buick,s total production for 1928 was 221,758 vehicles.

Thanks for that Terry, Looks like I,ll be making a few changes to mine or going your way and making a new one.

hidden -hunter. Buick used different gauges depending on year and model. The Four,s Standard,s and some Master,s used the gauge in the tank like yours, as per Dibarlaws photo 2. The 22,23 Sport Roadster and Sport Tourer and Coupe had the gauge in the dash, photo 1, as described by Terry Wiegand in a previous thread. The top of the range Masters 24 - 27 were in dash as per photo 3. 1919 - 20 and possibly earlier used the needle gauge as my above photo,s

This gauge never lets me down

Terry, You are right about the float hitting the top of the tank, but even when it is out of the tank and the arm is fully raised the gauge still only goes to 1/4. I feel it needs a full circle gear on the side not the 1/4 segment gear. Does yours go around to the full mark Thanks Rod