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About gpdc

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  1. fwiw dept......the top of the vacuum cannister, when removed & flipped over, shows a very small vent hole.....somewhere......I've forgotten exactly where, thinking its in a casted boss...... That hole in my friends car was plugged right shut with the (hardened) sealant that had been previously used on the gasket. If I'm remembering correctly, that little vent hole aligns with another hole in the top of the body of the can requiring it (the top) to be in the correct radial position when re-assembled. '25 Master 6 that now starts, runs & goes down the road like a champ......check my previous posts....all 6 pages......if you're interested, in reviewing what we did to get it to where it is now......don't give up.....ya gotta be "smarter the the car" gpdc
  2. Thank you Leif! we're thinking that a replacement is gonna cure our over charge condition and stop blowing fuses....we'll see! thanks again for that info. gpdc
  3. Hi All.......... Does anybody know if the internal S/G coil from a Delco 249 S/G (from a '23 6 cyl) is the same as the coil in the # 268 S/ G for our Master 6 ?.......... thank you! gpdc
  4. seems it !!!!, onto other,....I'm asking you, or any other reader if the S/G coil from a Delco 249 S/G (from a '23 6 cyl) is the same as the coil in the # 268 S/ G for our Master 6 ?..........
  5. Hello all......'lil update on the car : put it up for the winter around Turkey day last November....ya, 'bout 6 months ago...... prior to that & more recently, thrash sessions installed a new , 90 yo old flywheel (with the teeth cut into the solid as the original), new ignition components included properly crimped 8mm wires & their proper spacer sleeves in the cap, 90 degree terminals on the plugs,etc, etc new cap & rotor, points & (a biggie, me thinks), the capacitor ( ref here: L Bibarlows' problem with burned points....we had it) & a (correct) replacement distributor (more thanks Jim B ).......and various other bits, pieces &'re now successfully driving around the yard with it & dealing with the over amp draw seen when "motoring" the s/g......which (it seems) has a possible field coil short to ground problem. The motor sounds so sweet at idle, it'll make your heart melt.........the whole system will get a super tuning once we get this amperage draw problem figured out & solved............ & I'm not sure if I voiced it, the problem with the hand crank was system "sticktion".......I could turn it with the pan & the rear main cap off...... in installing the new flywheel....I had to.............& I could turn it from underneath the car using (gently) a bar between the clutch towes......AMAZED, I was !! I believe now it's an oil problem that the starter motor easily overcomes....truth be told, we don't really need to hand crank it any more............(maybe!) The orange glowy exhaust problem and subsequent (associated?) water overheating SEEMS to be history.....contributing factors could include accurate ignition timing, proper Marvel carb settings & carb heating component adjustments comlimentary to todays available fuel. again, thanks to all who chimed in........ GPDC
  6. ya Rod, your pictures, directions & the schematics in the shop manual for a bench test for the "motoring" function were what I was going on..... couldn't get it to run....then, desperation move.....stuck that black wire back in & it motored...... The car started, ran & charged when he first got it & it had that wire a call to Jason is in order next week......
  7. Well....we're getting closer & closer now........ the tight/hard turning (manual) crank problem may have had something to do with a hard turning distributor shaft....probably a pot metal dist. housing problem..... a recent stumbling block is shown in the attached pic.....does anybody want to take a guess as to what function the black wire with the small white paint spot on it has?.......both ends have ring type sta-kon crimp ends (avail 1925?....kinda doubt it).....the larger ring terminal is fixed to the case (a ground) by the hex bolt shown.....the small ring terminal end goes onto the threaded stud that sits above the lifting starter brush & is kinda buried out of sight.......the mystery is in the fact that w/o that wire, the s/g arm won't "motor" at low speed like it needs to....... we put that wire back in to get the "motoring" & the starting system never engaged so smoothly, effortlessly or smoothly.....we're there on that... stay tuned!
  8. wow......never gave tight end play a thought..... the pan is still off so I'll check it tomarrow....... fwiw dept: I bought a used '70 Mach 1 'Stang in '72........pretty 'lil thing with a Cleveland, 410 locker, Hurst ontop of the BW T10 The car had been parked for months by the original owner when I bought it...... much later I heard the thinking was it had bent crank......evidenced & experienced by me everytime it wouldn't turn over fast enough to start when warm..... I learned to carry cables, not to start it warm & always park it pointed downhill....... I lived with the inconvience...... Then one day I installed Hooker headers, street cam, bigger Holley on an Edelbrock intake & a hot ignition..... and drove it to Florida the next day...... The car NEVER had starting problems after that......... Can anybody guess why?...... SPOILER ALERT: The stock CI exhaust manifolds were transfering too much heat to the starter motor......the headers were routed to minimize that and also too..... there may or may not have been a missing heat shield involved from day one....
  9. Thanks for that Larry, All of that is good info & ideas..... Your backward (ly) installed crank pulley is the kind of thing we thought we'd find if & when we took the crank snout out & apart on this engine.......won't happen now....yippee!! I'd started thinking about one way clutch bearings as crazy as that would be in there...... I've seen tight rings nearly instantly gall the cyl walls & start the engine smoking real bad...this engine blows no blue.... I've also seen tight front & rear rope type seals that weren't trimmed properly tighten a new engine...for a while..... That GM break-in oil seems like a good idea.....with unknown time on the engine (but still thinking it has very little) it might not be a bad thing to dump a quart in there.....not a bad idea at all, methinks.....
  10. Hello mystery solved: The new/rebuilt engine in this car has a HUGE amount of "stiction" break-away force....enough so that my 250# on the end of a 1/2" breaker bar would NOT MOVE the crank using the front manual crank snout....not one tiny bit. Anybody following this thread has read of my pleas for help regarding this. Last nite, in mounting the new flywheel (thank you again to Jim B !), we HAD to turn the flywheel to get its' (6) bolts in from the we had to do to remove them (just like the book says....LOL) I used a bar between the (3) clutch-pak towers and rotated the crank in the direction of its' normal rotation & noticed something I hadn't when removing those bolts last week......after the initial rotational break-away using the bar, and if I did what I could do using my third & fourth hands to loose the bar & get hands on the clutch towers, I could keep the engine rotating! BY HAND!!! This caused me to return to the front crank snout, insert our new to us crank handle (again, thank you Jim B.) & put more force on it than I ever had, broken pieces be damned...and bam.....once broken free, I could turn that motor over fairly easily using the hand crank........ GREAT sighs of relief here as we'd committed to pulling the radiator/front engine mount & crank snout to get this problem FIXED. All that being said......the rear main cap has yet to go back on, so we'll see what that brings us......neither that bearing nor its' journal look heated or stressed in any way. Now......we're looking for thoughts on the main culprit here, which, right now anyway, I believe to be oil related as I've seen this problem before involving the ways of manually operated machine tools.........once you get the table moving, you float along like it's on a bed of marbles......another thought is we simply need to add in some more break-in time to the front & rear seals & babbit bearings. We think this motor had very little run time before the vehicle purchase......and maybe 50 mikes since. Is there something unique about (poured?) babbit material that might require a light(er) or special purpose 1oil at break-in time?......sounds crazy, just asking. So....thats the deal thus far....... We're getting there.
  11. Jim B in southern Vermont, My friend the car owner is interested in your flywheel..... can you confirm that your flywheel has an Outside Diameter of just about 15 7/16" and has 122 teeth ? The only difference would seem to be in the casting #'s and would appear to be -1 and his is -2 at the end. and if your diameter & tooth count are the same, he's willing to drive to you for purchase if you'd give us a price and your location or similar contact info as he's close enough to you for that....... just north of Syracuse, NY thank you, George P.
  12. FYI All: pic of bad flywheel.....I think there's 26 teeth that are shot....
  13. Jim, Your flywheel sure looks better than ours!! and thank you for the pictures !.... I'm going to the car in less than an hour to finish pulling it out of the car. We'll get back to you shortly after that..... where are you ?
  14. Rod, as always, thank you for the've been a great help to us on this has everybody else who's posted here with info for us.....thank you all...... We have the rear of the engine supported on both sides very well. That allowed removing the lower bell housing/flywheel guard & frame to engine motor mounts. I'm remined of a jig saw puzzle by all this........just to pull the flywheel. I'd been so easy if the designers' had opened the flywheel clearance diameter(s) just 3/8 of an inch. The flywheel bolts will not push back far enough to let it (the flywheel) drop right straight down as their heads contact the rear main bearing cap on the bottom and the back of the engine block on the top, and they need to be removed to allow the flywheel to drop down. Today we'll decide whether we need to drop the oil pad or not....can't really tell if that rear main bearing cap extends under the pan or not. FLASH: Buick refers to the oil pan as the "Lower Crankcase".........and clearly tells you to remove mention of the rear main bearing cap. so methinks that will be todays' project............ Pics will follow...........
  15. update on flywheel problem: who'd ever thought a simple flywheel pull could ever be so involved..................... was it the Chevy Vega that needed its' engine lifted to get at the rear plug(s) ? HA HA.......this '25 has got that beat all to hell....... long story short....we're going to need this flywheel repaired or replaced.... Anybody have any good ideas about how we should go about doing that? (there is no ring gear.....the teeth are cut into the solid of the flywheel)....... can we just buy a ring gear with the correct # of teeth (or close), turn the flywheel diameter as required on a lathe & shrink the new piece on? also too.......the flywheel is too large in diameter to come right straight out of the :bellhousing, even after dropping the lower guard......looks like both the (drained) oil pan and the rear main bearing cap need to come off......the main bearing cap traps the flywheel bolts so that they won't push back far enough to allow the flywheel to drop right straight down........