ROD W

Members
  • Content Count

    797
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ROD W

  1. If you have wooden felloe,s ( the part of the wheel that goes around the spokes ) you would need bolts with larger heads. The bolts on my wheels are 3 1/2" long, where as the one,s on E bay are 3 3/16" Remove one of your bolts and measure.
  2. Brian, Brass does sound like a good way to go. I had an MG once with brass manifold bolts, never any problems removing them, the steel one,s a different story. Sounds like you had a great time on that Caribbean cruise. My wife has been trying to talk me into going on a Great Barrier Reef cruise over here, but I want to finish the body on the 25-55. Can,t do everything.
  3. Hentzee The 24 and 25 master are pretty much the same, heat riser and inlet manifold different. Poto 2 - 25 master. Photo 3 - 24 master. The operation of the stearing box gears between standard 25 and master 25, are the same, but parts not interchangeable. 1924 didn,t have a standard but the last of the four cylinder cars. Again I think the operation of the spark and carb gears were the same. Leif from Sweden might come in and advise us on this. Rod
  4. Larry , when I,m working on the car, this is what I see. (Isn,t it what we all aspire to in our restorations) They say that the 20,s are the least popular years. But the tourers of the 20,s look pretty special to me.
  5. Thanks for that picture Larry. Ill add that one to my photo album. How do you post such a large picture onto the forum. hidden hunter, I think Vic Ash was the main timber used by Holden. But I think Ash was the main timber used in the U.S also. But saying that, they are very different timbers. Vic Ash is not an Ash and Tassie Oak is not an Oak. They are both Eucalyptus. hardwood gum trees
  6. hidden hunter The car came from Adelaide. So I would say it was a Holden built body. The person I bought it from had it sitting in he's garage for 30 years, But unfortunately I have no history before that.
  7. Thanks for that Mark, Myself probably like many others tend to forget and leave things like tightening U bolts. Yes Tom I,ll have to try using a left hand drill bit. I,ve never had any, but can probably be obtained through specialist supply shops or online.
  8. Purchased this car site unseen, and was told much of the woodwork was done. When finally got it home after driving 5000kms there and back, found the woodwork was all wrong, being about 3" too wide at the bottom where the tub attached, and in soft wood (philipinne mahogany, meranti) too soft to hold nails. So decided to rebuild timber frame in Merbau a New Guinea timber. Photo,s of making patterns of main rails and posts, and cutting new pillars from original patterns. I also took lots of measurement of a 26-55 located 400kms away. Main rails and floor in position .positioning centre pillars aligning body
  9. Seems to be a bit quiet on pre- war forum of late. So thought I,d post a few pic,s and what Ive been up to on my cars. Brake linings looked very low on the K-44 roadster, So when removing brake bands, the bolt that holds bands onto the axle broke off at the bottom of the slot. Still unable to remove band , so had to drill bolt out to remove band.Tried to remove bolt with easy out, with no success. Applying heat with easy out will be the next step. Hoping not to damage the threads. Yep the bands do need re- lining.
  10. It sounds like your distributor isn,t rotating, Thats probably why the gear is cracked from trying to force it. Remove the arm/rod going to the distributor. You should be able to turn/rotate the distributor by hand about 1/2" to 3/4". thats about 7-10 minutes if your thinking of a clock. This rotation is for your advance and retard. If your distributor won,t turn, there is an oil nipple to oil the shaft, or you may have to loosen the big nut at the bottom of the distributor to get it to turn. Don,t lift the distributor up as this could affect the timing if you don,t put it back in the same position. Keep moving the distributor till it turns freely. This is the way I time my 1925, which has combined starter generator at the back of the motor. The 1926 has the generator at the front of the motor, but I am shore the process of adjusting the distributor would be similar. Someone else chime in if I am wrong.
  11. hidden hunter. You were saying your distributor/spark control lever on your stearing column isn,t working. Possibly the gears at the bottom of the gearbox are broken. They are made of pot metal and break very easily. I have broken a few trying to get ones off rusted shafts. Not soaking for long enough. Here are some photo,s of the spark throttle control at the bottom of the steering box. Top one goes to distributor and bottom arm to accelerator This is off a 24 or 25 master. the 26 standard may look a little bit different. But it is basically the same.
  12. David, My 1920 has the patent date from 1912 - 1918. So those patent dates sound right for a 1923. and the same patent dates as per that previous post. See photo of a 1920 carby, the float chamber, needle valve and air valve are all the same. The only difference, after 1920 the length of the heat riser was increased for two heat pipes instead of one. There are only two paper gaskets for the float chamber, which can be cut out, and as Mark said a new cork float can be made. Rod
  13. hidden hunter Get a Shop Manual for the adjustment, repair and lubrication of Buick. It covers all models 114" 120" and 128" chassis. Its 108 pages and covers everything you need to know. You can get reproduction ones at swap meets and original ones on Ebay USA. Another one is the Motor Car Operation and Care, covering both Master and Standard six models. The book Seventy Years of Buick by George H Dammann covers all Buicks from 1903 to 1973. They also come up for sale in the US on Ebay. I am always refering to mine. Bendigo swap meet is the biggest swap meet in Aust. And I think Ballarat also has a big one.
  14. hidden hunter Join the Buick car club in Victoria. In 2011 there were six standard and master Buicks in the club and there were twenty one 1927,s. The set up for the controls are pretty much the some for both the standard and master and the 1926, 1927, and I think 1928 are the same. All told there are about seventy 26 and 27 Buicks around Australia. Look in Buick Club Victoria and there are contact details of the committee members. There is sure to be a car near you. Go and take lots of photo,s. I have a 25-55, but the 24 and 25 are different to the later cars. Rod
  15. hidden hunter Thanks for the video, Looks like you,ve got a lovely car there and the engine sounds great . To adjust the carby, turn the air screw so the end is level with the end of the ratchet. Close the fuel adjustment wheel at the bottom, then open one turn till the notch is facing the guide post. A leaner or richer mixture is obtained by slight adjustments of the air screw. Remove your floor boards so you can see the accelerator linkages better to make adjustments.
  16. hidden hunter As you said the linkages are different between RHD and LHD. You don,t need much travel in the accelerator pedal to get the throttle to fully open. If your throttle is fully opening and closing I would leave it. A 25-25 I had, the foot rest was adjustable (had a threaded rod to raise and lower) and the rod the accelerator button was attached to was also threaded at the bottom end to raise and lower. My 1920 has adjustment at the carby (again a threaded rod) Just play with linkages to adjust what is best for you. Also if the hand throttle is opening and closing the butterfly, leave it and learn the positions for the best settings. Just my 2 cents worth.
  17. Terry, your talking about the six cylinder cars with the cantilever springs. The 4 cylinder cars had conventional rear springs mounted under the chassis/frame. But as you said, if crazycars has the correct torque tube, rear axle and springs, it should come together. The only other possibility is if it is a six cylinder torque tube and rear axle. The 6 rear axle is very different to the 4. with a longer torque tube. As Doo Dah said some photo,s would help
  18. Catrinus One inch sounds right. The workshop manual says, turn engine to the 7 degree mark ( which is approximately one inch after dead centre) with the No. 1 cylinder on the firing stroke.
  19. Thanks for those pictures Mr Earl. My sentiments exactly, ( just like Mr E likes them )
  20. Crazycars I,m not very familiar with the four cylinder cars. But are the rear springs around the right way. Measure from the centre of the spring to the ends and see if there is any difference. One end may be shorter or longer than the other. I would bolt the engine and gearbox in place and work back.
  21. pipeweld The 27-27 is a standard six four door sedan where as the 27-28 is a two door four passenger coupe. with the built in trunk on the back. The front doors may be longer on the coupe than the sedan but I am not sure, The front fenders, hood and cowl would be the same. Rod
  22. Yes John, I think it was Houston CL