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Everything posted by ROD W

  1. Ben The simplest way is to move the rear axle and torque tube backwards as Leif said. There are 4 bolts holding each spring onto the axle and remove the pins for the brake linkages. 4 bolts hold the torque tube to the gear box (or torque ball, universal) The whole rear axle should then roll back (support the front of the torque tube) With the car jacked up there should be enough room before the wheels hit the rear guards. The disk linnings may be OK. When I did mine, i found the wear on the sides of the 3 flat sided bolt that attach to the fly wheel ( these can be seen in Leifs photo ) were worn stopping the discs sliding properly. I ground the ridges off these Which solved the problem Rod
  2. Jos 24, 25, 26 and 27 all had similar bodies. But the master came out in 128" and 120" chassis with different body styles, The seven seater and sport tourer on the 128 " chassis and the five seater on the 120" wheel base. The roadster also came out on both chassis. There,s a hotrod on Ebay ,with a 25 Buick roadster body, looks like it might go fairly cheap
  3. The six has a round bar across the front of the frame/chassie. Between the two chassie rails. The picture is very small but I don,t think I can see this bar.
  4. Thanks Greg, I was also thinking the doors were the wrong ones, so I delayed commiting to the purchase. It has now been sold. Rod
  5. Yes it is a model 45, the 55 had a built in trunk rack and 128" wheel base. The 45 had the 120" wheel base. It has a combined starter/ generator. 48,912 were built for domestic sales, 1,561 for export. it was Buicks most popular model. It had a new engine of 255 cubic inch and a removable cylinder head.
  6. Model 24-48 is a Master 4 passenger coupe. My master radiator shell measures 32 1/4'' high, 22" wide at the bottom, 19 1/2" wide at the top. 24-48 has a 128 inch wheel base, 115 is the standard wheel base in 25,26,27, There is a 1926 master radiator and shell for sale in the Montana craigslist
  7. rhead 25, 26, 27, standard shells are interchangable. though the 25 has a slightly flatter profile. The 24 25 26 27 master are interchangeable, with the 24 and 25 having the flatter profile that is not quite so rounded at the front Rod
  8. Is there anybody in Vancouver who could look at this for me. It is in the Delta area
  9. Thanks Mark, Jon. Not that I,m planning to change my carby. just interested to know. Rod
  10. Seen this 1920 on Ebay. Can anybody tell me what type of carby it is. Rod
  11. The axle is tapered, the external nut is meant to pull the hub tight onto the taper. There is also a keyway to stop the hub spinning on th axle. If the nut hasn,t been tightened properly and held in position by the locking tab, the hub may be worn, or the key may be preventing the hub being properly tightened onto the axle. Maybe the nut has reached the end of its thread , try putting a large washer on, so you have a bit more thread to tighten further. A wheel I had on a 25 standard was so loose I had to wrap thin metal around the taper to tighten it up. ,
  12. Joe this the internals of a 1920, I think the same as a 23. The air intake draws air from the manifold controled by the choke hot air lever The heat jacket regulated by the heat damper Rod
  13. Looks the same as bumper jacks we used to use on Ford Falcons/Futura during the 1960-70 Rod
  14. Try bi-passing the vacume tank with a fuel container conected straight to float bowl, it may be starving for fuel. Check that the cork float is not fuel logged and the carby is not flooding. Ensure the air valve adjustment screw is corectly set (large knurled screw above float bowl) end should be level with ratchet. and fuel adjustment screw at bottom of carby. close then open about one and a bit turns. I have a metal plate between the vacume tank and manifold to shield the vacume tank fromheat which causes vapour locks. Rod
  15. Ben I got my 25 standard engine done at an engineering shop in Murrurie, but didn,t get it crack tested, later to find it weeping between the welch plugs. They drilled tapped and plugged the 6'' crack ( I,ve forgotten the name of the procedure) But it worked. 26 and 27 blocks are the same as the 25 (larger bore but you can put in the bigger pistons) It does,t hurt to have a spare block. Rod
  16. Dave Make sure you have a good earth from the battery to the chassis/frame and use a heavier cable for six volt than you would for a twelve volt system as they carry a heavier load or there is a greater voltage drop if any resistance is encountered. Also get somebody else to push on the starter pedal while you look to see if the brushes are engaging properly,as Leif said. Rod
  17. Phils If all the linkages and levers in the brake system are badly worn and oval, drill them out to an oversize hole and put in a larger bolt/pin. For the large lever that goes through the front wheel baking plate. It will need re-sleeving to remove the play Rod
  18. Jerred The 1920 roadster is Model K-44, 19,000 were built for domestic sales and 200 for export. It has a 118" wheelbase. a 242 cu inch engine, bore and stroke 3-3/8 x 4-1/2 inches. the K series was basicaly the same as the 1919 H series carried over into 1920. The chassis/frame number is on the chassis near the fuel tank. I have a 1920 sedan with a localy built body. Rod
  19. Scott Engine numbers and chassis/frame numbers for 1920,s
  20. I went for the bonded linnings, but I don,t know how well they will stop the car. Hope your drums were not damaged too much from the rivets.
  21. Jerry I just got the local brake shop to do mine. I also had the bonded lining,s done (no rivets) 5mm or 3/16" for both. Rod
  22. It looks like a model 20 two door coach (27-20) This is the standard model Buick on the 114" wheel base chassis. It was the third most popular Buick in 1927 with 33,190 being built for domestic sales and 870 for export. Looks like a very straight original car, sure you will have fun restoring this car. Marvel carby,s are a very simple carb to work on, but if you want to change it to a down draught it is simple to change it back to the original for selling. There are a number of other threads on this forum in regard to the conversion. Rod PS.there,s a 27 reference book for sale in the buy/sell section. always good to have
  23. Thought I had an original 20,s oil can. But I was wrong.