ROD W

gpdc, As the engine is starting and running, I feel you have the timing fairly close. I think you need to look at why the engine is so difficult to turn by hand. I can turn my engines using the crank handle with the spark plugs in, and with the plugs out no effort is required at all. Your socket to go over the crank handle shaft should work. Photo shows starter shaft fully pushed in, there is still room for the spring to be pushed in further, so if the slots are a bit deeper it shouldn,t be a problem. The inside of the crank handle shaft is the same as the outside, that you can see. ( a pin going through the shaft ) When you push the shaft in it engages with the nut that holds the crankshaft timing gear on. I was hoping to take a photo, but could,t find one. This nut is similar to the crank handle slots, But it engages only going in the clockwise direction when shaft pushed in, you can turn the crank handle anti- clockwise ( it does not engage ) Which is important when hand starting so you don,t break your wrist or arm when the engine starts. You can push the crank handle shaft in by hand or using your socket and feel it lock in when turning clockwise, turning anti-clockwise you will feel the pin lift over the top of the nut then drop into the next slot. There is nothing complicated in how it works, just difficult to explain. If your engine was rebuilt you would expect it to be tighter, but you should still be able to turn it by hand.

Been reading my Shop Manuals from different years. The top pic on the left is from 1925 Master six, Operation and Care, It just says to set at the 7 degree mark on the compression stroke, with the spark lever retarded. Top right is from 1919 - 20 Reference Book. Saying to (turn engine to 7 degree mark which is approx one inch after dead centre) with the spark lever in the retard position. Bottom Pic is from 1926 -27 shop Manual , saying to fully advance the spark lever and set at the 17 degree mark and not to confuse between the 7 and the 17 degree marks. But this is what Dave B said when the spark lever is advanced it is 17 degrees BTDC. Does this only make it more confusing.

gpdc

gpdc, With the spark plugs removed and no compression, the engine should turn very easily by hand ( using the crank handle )

I agree with Terry and Jim 21 or 22

gpdc, Yes the Shop Manual says 7degrees. I remove the spark plugs when turning the engine over with the crank handle, makes it much easier. If the engine has been rebuilt maybe the camshaft timing is out or the flywheel has not been put back on in the correct position. A cracked head gasket will cause over heating. Check the compression on all six cylinders.

gpdc, As you can see from Leif,s scan, your car is a 25- 45, the 45 means it is five seat master tourer on the 120" wheelbase chassis. If you have not already done so, it would be a good idea to disconnect all that carburetor heating mechanism, it is unnecessary with todays fuels. Remove the carburetor and heat riser as in pic 1, and block off the back with a thin sheet of metal where the heat enters from the manifold. Ensure the inner tube has no holes ( you won,t be able to get the car to run properly if it does) these can be replaced. Also block off the other end where it enters the lower end of the manifold. These cars were,t designed to have an electric fuel pump ( too high pressure ) My 1920 Buick had one when I bought it, causing flooding, no problems once removed. Rod

Dandy Dave, Yes I think that was the case, But my 1920 roadster is a U.S car. Came originally from North Dakota. That later cowl is still a mystery, maybe 1921 had wooden felloes

Brian, My 1920 has wooden felloes

Its a 1924 Master engine

There were 5,479 Model 24-33 Opera Coupe,s built for the domestic market and 30 for export out of a total production of 160,411 in 1924. 1924 was the last year for 4 cylinder Buicks, and the first year for four wheel brakes

hidden hunter, I don,t use any choke, if I do it floods. But then the temp never gets down to 15c

Kevin Here are some photo,s of the floor and front seat woodwork

This is not official documentation, but a compilation from another site by there members. It was placed here as an AACA member was unable to download it from the other forum. There are possibly errors. If anybody wants to add or make changes to this list please do or it can be removed by a moderator

Buick Starter Generator Specs

casianobill, It is difficult to put a price on these cars. Depending on the age of the restoration, wether it was a professional or amateur restoration, how well the car is running, the exterior and interior condition. How original and complete the car is, the history of the car and wether the seller is in a hurry to make a sale. The car on the right is a full recent restoration, but on the market for a considerable period of time, asking price $29,500. Car on the left 1970,s restoration, engine not running very well, paint needing work, advertised for $20,000. Sold in middle teens.

Kevin These carburetors are very simple. You can cut the gaskets yourself. There are two thin paper gaskets, one at the bottom of the carb where the float chamber connects to carb body, and another for the float chamber cover. A thicker gasket is used from the carb to the inlet manifold . The heat riser is the tube that is inside the carb and is surrounded by the heat jacket, You can see this when you remove the carb, check for holes where the tubes enter from the exhaust. This picture is from a 1920 which has only one pipe from the exhaust other than that its the same. You don,t really need to use heat with modern fuel, I have disconnected the heat pipe completely.

As Mark said, put the gears into the neutral position as per photo, Put the gear lever in the neutral position, place a 1" piece of wood across the top of the gearbox so you can see that the selectors have gone into the selector slots on the gears. But saying this, are the wheels being driven by the gears or are they just turning from the friction from the flywheel input shaft onto the main gear shaft. Often one wheel will turn when up on jacks. You should be able to stop the wheel spinning by hand, or put the hand break on.

There is a metal plate over the starter gear, and a round pin with a tapered end is connected to the arm

Kevin It looks like its a 1925 chassis/frame. 25 serial numbers went from 1211720 to 1412093 for the masters and a 1924 motor, engine numbers for 24 master 1087630 to 1273003 As you said it is a 25 inlet manifold, the 24 was square. I think that trunk rack may have been a later addition or after market accessory. The Model 55 had a solid metal trunk rack with brackets to support it.

casianobi There were 10,391 E-44 roadsters built for domestic sales and 275 for export out of a total production of 77,691. They have a 242 cu inch engine and a 118" wheel base. I would clean the gas tank and the vacuum tank before starting as they will probably both have sediment in them. To start the car, fill the vacuum tank with fuel and ensure it is running into the carburettor float chamber. When you turn the ignition on you can hear the starter/generator running ( motoring ) this allows proper engagement of the starter gear and the flywheel ring gear. The starting instructions say to have the spark and throttle levers 1/3 down the sector, but my car will only start when the spark is fully advanced ( at the bottom of the sector ) and the air regulator in the hot position. These engines have no oil to the rocker gear so ensure you oil the rockers. The front and back of the starter/generator also need oiling and the distributor drive shaft. Pic three is the sediment I got out of my vacuum tank,

Good to hear its working properly now.