ROD W

dibarlaw There is a complete unrestored 25-25 for sale, houston CL, Its not a parts car, but doe,s have back seat hand rail. He might sell that separately. Rod

Just been looking at where your fan is hitting. The fan should be in the middle of the radiator not over to the side. I think the belt might be too long and when you try to tighten it , the fan is pulled over to the side. If the fan hub has oil, it is probably O.K, turn the fan around till you find the plug where you can add oil. Don,t put too much in, it will only run out and be thrown every where when the engine is running. To block off and remove the heat riser and carby, there are two bolts on the top of the inlet manifold, and two at the back on the exhaust manifold, also remove the fuel line from the vacuum tank. Cut out a piece of flat metal to the shape of the exhaust manifold, drill two holes in the correct positions for the bolt holes, use a suitable gasket.

Hidden hunter There is adjustment in the radiator top and bottom. A threaded rod adjusts the top, and the two bolts at the bottom of the radiator surround can be moved. Try just bending the fan blades back slightly In Aust you don,t need to use the heat control. Leave the exhaust valve in the open position. Mine has been completely removed. Also close off the heat to the carburettor from the manifold as it burns a hole in the heat riser tube causing poor running and requiring a new tube. You will need to remove the carby and heat riser anyway to check for holes. As Larry was saying if there is play in the fan hub (wobble in the fan) it may be the bearing inside has worn out. The hub runs in an oil bath. There is an adjuster for the belt tension. Contact other people with 26 and 27 bucks in the club, Their sure to have spare parts. Rod

JRA Usually the seven seats were only put in the master series as they had the longer 128" wheel base compared to 114" for the standard, allowing more leg room for the back seat passengers. I would say the two folding seats were a later addition. 1713575 is a 1927 engine number.

Buick didn,t have suicide doors

Yes 1924 Four cylinder Model 24-33 Coupe, The crank/starter handle is below the radiator. I can only see two windows on the passenger side and the rear window curves at the back. Roof line looks too short for a sedan, they didn,t have a coach in 1924. Looks like a four passenger coupe with a trunk to me. 1925 didn,t have the beading/moulding around the radiator shell. 1925 Fisher bodies had a one piece windshield and a nickel radiator shell.

Lahti35 - Yes you need to remove the rear axle to get to the gear box and clutch. See picture of when my clutch was done.

Larry, I found the same with the air valve / flap in my 25 master. Not closing properly and a gap, mine was also sticking in the open position. So as you said, lots of filing and adjusting to get a proper fit. The engine did run better, but there is also an over heating problem, so I could,t run the engine for long before it over heated. Since I,ve been working on the body and other car projects, I haven,t got back to the over heating problem. My wife is over seas for a month, I promised her I would work on the house but I guess it would,t hurt to have a look at the water pump and flush the radiator out.

Ben The key should be a tight fit in the axle and and into the hub . The axle nut needs to be done up tightly, pulling the hub tightly onto the tapered axle, I this is loose it will create wear in the hub and a broken key. When the axle nut is done up, there should be no play in the wheel . There is also a lock ring with tabs to prevent the nut comming loose. On a car I had, the hub was very worn. unable to get it tight on the axle. so I wrapped a thin piece of metal around the axle, then it could be pulled tight. How did you go with your clutch. Rod

Generator mounted at the front makes it a 26 or 27, As Leif said it is a 27 engine number. 1927 went from 1691750 to 1960500, You would have to measure the length of the block to tell if it a master or a standard motor

1921, 22 and 23. had a different body shape to 1924. Also 22-35 was a tourer where as 24-37 is a sedan so the cowl and doors are different. The gauges are the same.

Dave As Mark said, these Marvels are very simple and easy to service and repair, As you have two, you should be able to build one good carby. If it is flooding it probably needs a new cork float. check the high speed nozzle for cracks on the tip. This can be soldered and re-drilled to the right size if required. Ensure the air flap is moving freely. The air adjustment is set to the end of the ratchet spring. Rod

Jochen The engine and chassis numbers were never the same. It is a 1924 engine number, and both the engine and chassis are built towards the end of 1924 production, so I would say its the original engine.

Leif I thought Buick built the open cars, tourers, roadsters, and Fischer built the closed in cars, Sedans, coupes and coaches. In Australia the open cars were built by Holden but the sedans had the imported Fischer body,s. Rod

Thanks Marty , John. Three weeks till arrival. Will be counting the days down. Paperwork and history arriving with the car.Mark was this the day of the All Buick Show. Photo of clutch being done.

Yes thats the one Mark. Are you familiar with the car. They said the clutch was rebuilt, but still grabbing and difficult to change gears. It might just need some driving to settle it in. Will have to wait and see.

Been looking for a Buick roadster for a number of years. Finally acquired one. It has taken two months to organise all the paperwork to import into Australia, and another month for shipping. It is now half way across the Pacific, on its way to Taiwan, where it will change ships. My 1920 sedan has right hand steering, and right hand gears and hand brake. Now I,ll have to get used to left hand steering and centre gears and hand brake. Hopefully the car doesn,t move in the container. But it looks like they have strapped it down pretty well.

All the earlier years had the recessed metal panel under the seat, with the seat support timbers there was a 6'' space under the seat for storage.

With 4,501 model 23-54 being produced and only 4 in the BCA roster, the odds of it still existing are very small

Well it looks like it,s a Mclaughlin Buick, sold new in Brisbane Australia. Adelaide St, is one of the main inner city streets. A number of car dealerships were located in Adelaide St. in the 1920-30, Possibly with a locally manufactured body, and then shipped to Ireland. Interesting history.

Jerry If the starter was turning the motor over when the starter pedal was depressed, it sounds like the ring gear is O.K .and it is engaging. But as it is making a grinding noise when the pedal is released it sounds to me, as if the brushes for the starter aren,t disengaging properly. In the combined starter/generator when you press the starter pedal, this engages the starter brushes and disengages the generator brushes and when the pedal is released the opposite occurs. As the starter/ generator has just been rebuilt , possibly the brushes are too long and not disengaging. there is a plate at the firewall end of the generator that can be removed and the brushes can be seen. If somebody sits in the car and presses the starter pedal you can see if the brushes are releasing and engaging properly. also you can see if the starter gear is retracting properly from the ring gear. Hope this helps. Rod

As you said one is a master and one is a standard. They are both 1926 as they both have separate starter and generators, and solid engine mounts, 1924 and 1925 had combined starter/generator. and 1927 had rubber engine mounts. If no parts fit from that 26 master motor maybe the car you are doing up is not a 26. Possibly a 25, because 25 and 26 engine parts are not inter changeable. 1924 has a square intake manifold where as 25, 26 and 27 have round intake manifolds. Hope this helps. Rod W

Ben The simplest way is to move the rear axle and torque tube backwards as Leif said. There are 4 bolts holding each spring onto the axle and remove the pins for the brake linkages. 4 bolts hold the torque tube to the gear box (or torque ball, universal) The whole rear axle should then roll back (support the front of the torque tube) With the car jacked up there should be enough room before the wheels hit the rear guards. The disk linnings may be OK. When I did mine, i found the wear on the sides of the 3 flat sided bolt that attach to the fly wheel ( these can be seen in Leifs photo ) were worn stopping the discs sliding properly. I ground the ridges off these Which solved the problem Rod

Jos 24, 25, 26 and 27 all had similar bodies. But the master came out in 128" and 120" chassis with different body styles, The seven seater and sport tourer on the 128 " chassis and the five seater on the 120" wheel base. The roadster also came out on both chassis. There,s a hotrod on Ebay ,with a 25 Buick roadster body, looks like it might go fairly cheap

The six has a round bar across the front of the frame/chassie. Between the two chassie rails. The picture is very small but I don,t think I can see this bar.