Vila

You may want to ask this question on the Vintage Chevrolet Club of American website at www.vcca.org to get an answer from the experts on Chevrolets. They may even be able to tell you whether it was originally a flat, satin, or gloss finish. You should post your question under the 1937 - 1941 section. My 1933 Chevrolet chassis was and still is painted black.

Ok, here is what I was taught to be double clutching, but like other have said you don't need to do it unless you are in a hurry to shift gears with a non-synchro transmission or if the synchromesh is shot on a synchromesh transmission. 1. If you are grinding when trying to get into first from a stop try this while stopped, especially if you had the car in neutral with the clutch out while at the stop. Push in the clutch and move the shift lever in to the highest gear first then in to 1st all while the clutch is in. 2. Pull out in first gear as described above. 3. When shifting from first to second push in the clutch and shift to neutral, leave out the clutch then push it back in before completion the shift into second where you again let out the clutch to complete the shift. Hence the term double clutch, since you pushed in and released the clutch twice per shift. 4. Whether you are up or down shifting you accomplish the same pattern by going to neutral and letting out the clutch prior to pushing it in a again to complete the shift.

I don't buy lottery tickets either, but if I did and won this would be my plan. First I would need to design and build a new 12 car garage to fit our daily drivers in the current 3 car garage and have space for a vintage fleet with a few open spaces for future expansion. Personally I am not into the big 1930s classics so here is what I would add: 1916 Scripps-Booth Chummy roadster. 1924 - 27 Buick touring 1931 Chevrolet 5 passenger coupe 1941 Graham Hollywood 1955 MGTF 1500 1963 Corvette fuel injected 327 Split Window coupe 1967 Austin Healey 3000

I assume the PAQ440478 is the engine serial number stamped into a flat machined surface. Can you provide the engine block casting number. It should be near the stamped number, and should be a 7 digit number in raised numbers. This should narrow it down: http://www.inliners.org/becks/BCN2.html

I agree with trimacar and just about everything else said above. When I got the letter I went on the museum website to get their email address and set the following: "As a long time AACA member, I do not agree with your misguided rift with the CLUB. I support the CLUB and would like my name permanently removed from the museums email and mailing lists." I then listed my name and AACA membership number and ask them not to contact me again. If anyone would like to send a similar message, their email address is: info@aacamuseum.org

I don't care if a car is in or out of favor, I like and buy what appeals to me and don't care what others think. If the car is out of vogue and you like it then you may get a bargain and if it is in vogue you may need to pay a premium. But on the other hand what is a premium or bargain price.

Can I assume you are presenting two different numbers found on the Stag on two different number plates? The Commission Number should be found on a metal plate attached to the left door pillar. The year and month of manufacture should also be stamped on the Commission Number plate, along with the original paint and trim codes. This is what today is known as the VIN number and should be the number found on your registration. A small plate attached to the front body crossmember beside the LH hood hinge is the body number and is of no value. Is that the number with the UB suffix? There are no Commission numbers that end with UB. The number that ends with UO should be the Commission Number, and I believe the number ending with UB is the body number. The Commission Number is also the reference number used in the original parts manual unless it specifically states a Body number for a part listing I am still trying to figure out what a Federal Stag is vs a Non-Federal Stag, but the LE prefix means the car is a Federal Stag where LD would mean it was a Non-Federal Stag. Not sure if LE means it meets US Federal requirements or just the Federal requirements for which ever country it was shipped to identified by the suffix. In your case the LE means a US Federal Specifiation Stag. The Commission number UO suffix means the car is a "US Federal Specification" Stag fitted with an Overdrive Gearbox. Other suffix codes identify cars with different types of Gearboxs, Kilometer/hr Speedometers, or Left vs Right hand drive. Examples: If it only had a U suffix then it would be a US Fed Spec car but not have an overdrive gearbox, or if it had a UBW Commission Number suffix then it would be a US Fed Spec car with a Type 35 gearbox. The number between the LE and UO started with the number 1 for the first Stag built in 1971 and when up to 35722 built in 1977, so your car was the 23,622nd Stag built. 1973 Stags began with the number 20001 and ended with the number 25432. The engine number should begin with a LE prefix and end with a UE or UEBW. UE means it is a US Federal Spec engine whereas UEBW means it is a US Federal Spec engine with a type 35 Gearbox. Since your Commission number suffix is UO then you should have an engine with a UE suffix. Cars normally had different Commission, Body, and Engine numbers. It is just by luck if any of these numbers have the same seven digit numbers between the prefix and suffix. A British Motor Industry Heritage Trust certificate would provide you with the original Commission, Body, and Engine numbers for your Stag, when it left the factory.

Granny Gear-heads Repairing Antique Cars

TCP Global in California still sells Acrylic Lacquer. I recently bought some and had it shipped to Pennsylvania. Here is what it says on the TCP Global website at: http://www.autocolorlibrary.com California Residents Please Note: Restoration Shop UB Urethane Basecoat, AL Acrylic Lacquer and related solvents are not compliant for purchase in the State of California and may contain VOC which exceeds the limits in other districts/states.

You can purchase a British Motor Industry Heritage Trust certificate from the British Motor Museum at: https://www.britishmotormuseum.co.uk/archive/heritage-certificates I got one for my 1962 Triumph TR4 several years ago and it provides a wealth of information as applicable on your car to include: Commission number, Body number, Engine number, original color combination, options, key codes, date built, port shipped from, dealer shipped to, and more.

Michael, is that Philadelphia South Caroline, LOL?

I had a 1960 VW with the same tail light design when I was going to college from 1968 - 72 and yes it had dim tail lights with the factory spec bulbs. I can tell you that even with brighter bulbs they may still be dim due to the extremely small size of the tail light and lens. For safety it would help to have brighter lights, but if you don't want to do to that I would look up the Texas vehicle inspection requirements. Most states require vehicles to meet the standards for the year the car was manufactured which may not be up to par with todays standards, but are normally allowed. If you don't want to make any changes, I would do a web search of the Texas inspection standards and if there is a section on what standards older vehicles need to meet then I would print it out and keep it in the glove box to show the police if your are ever stopped again. When Pennsylvania first started allowing Year of Manufacture (YOM) license plates I printed out a copy of PennDot license place change and keep it in my glove box. Yes one of the first times I drive the car with a YOM plate I got stopped. Showed the officer the new law and everything was fine.

Not sure about a 74 MGB, but when I had my 71 Triumph TR6 back in the 1980s the brakes locked up and it turned out the Brake Servo Unit went bad. After I replaced the Brake Servo the brakes worked fine.

Yes batteries have been around for quite a long time and yes I have a camera made in the 1970s and a portable radio made in the 1950s and batteries are no longer made for either one. When is the last time you bought one of these 75 Volt Number 437 Eveready batteries for your antique radio?

My question about Tesla cars and the likes is how long will the batteries last, how long will replacements of the proper battery design be available and if available for year to come then how much will replacement batteries cost. Or is this another planned absolescence scam. The makeup of gas has changed over the years, but after more then 100 years we can still run our cars on todays gas. In 100 years will you still be able to find batteries for your 100 year old antique Tesla.

I never understood that either and Retiredmechanic74 is exactly right, PARANOIA.

I am not sure about Cadillac, but some manufactures keep the key code records and to get a new key all you need is to supply the VIN. I recently needed a new door handle with integrated lock for one of my BMWs and all I had do was provide the VIN and it was shipped with the lock coded. Not sure if the American manufactures have this capability, but worth asking a dealer if they can make keys from the VIN for a 1976 Seville.

Sactownog Yes, from what I have read the information in the other posts is correct. With reference to your question on a different wire gauge for Positive ground 6V systems, the answers provided by others is correct in that there should be no difference wire gauge between Positive or Negative ground 6 Volt systems. The difference in wire gauge has to do with 6 verses 12 Volt systems, not Positive verses Negative grounding. For a 6 Volt system to provide an equal amount of "POWER" to a vehicle accessory (i.e. Starter, Lights, etc, etc) that a 12 Volt system would supply requires more AMPS (electron flow) for the 6 Volt system, thus the 6 Volt system would need larger wire then a 12 Volt system to handle the increased AMPS. Use wiring sized for a 12 Volt system in a 6 Volt car and you run the risk of wires over heating. Use wires sized for a 6 Volt system in a 12 Volt car and you should have not problems other than over kill and spending more money then required.

In my opinion Dan Gurney's American Racing Team produced one of the most beautiful looking and sounding Formula 1 cars of all time, the 1967 Eagle Mk1 powered by the Gurney-Weslake V12.

I printed a copy to add to my 1933 Master maintenance notebook of extraneous repair materials. Thanks

I am not sure of the correct colors for a 1937 Chevrolet, but for a 1933 Master 5 window coupe the window frames are wood grained and some wood grained sections in the dash. If you don't get an answer here you can post this question on the Vintage Chevrolet Club of America (VCCA) forum and I guarantee you will get a quick response. The other option is to contact the VCCA technical advisor for 1937 Chevrolets. His name is Tom Burtch and you can contact him by phone at 727-203-5179 (Eastern time) or email at tomsoldcarhobby@yahoo.com

Yes restraint is good, but sometimes I don't have it. I nearly got booted from a British sports car forum for telling a guy that if he could afford to buy the car then he should have enough money to buy a used $50 factory repair manual on Ebay that would answer all his questions since it took to long to explain. I did receive warning points that identified me as a criminal to everyone on the forum.

You may want to post this question in the Pre-war Buick section of the forum. I am sure you will get the answer there since that is a very active section of the forum.

No pictures, but I do have an issue. I'll take the cold winter's over areas with extreme summer heat any time. I am not sure if my body needs a new water pump or radiator, but it runs hot and wants to boil over in the heat of the summer. Tends to run fine in the fall, winter, and spring, Any ideas on how to fix my summer over heating issue? Should I look at my radiator or water pump first? My neighbor told me I need a new Head. Seriously, 3 inches of snow.