F&J

I typed too slow, Pete gave the info: Run the web search with the alternator numbers/brand name to know if it's 12v. Definitely a broken Bendix spring unless the car sat forever in a wet climate and the Bendix rusted up to the shaft. I had an original/old Model Bendix spring break because the 12 volts makes a sudden very violent initial movement compared to 6 volts. I have read of many A's breaking the old spring on 12 volts. I don't know of a new spring would also break after a while on 12v, as we don't know if repro springs have better steel or worse.

Some people possibly try to spread their hate for 70s and newer cars because those are the vast majority of what shows up at the local shows and cruises. These people also spread their hate at any prewar rods that do show up. Wake up, the prewar "stock" hobby has been dying out at local venues and it won't get better as things always change. These people seem to believe that if a show excludes all the 70s and newer cars, then the shows will "magically" be attended by hundreds of early cars. What makes our prewar hobby participation even lower at local shows is the people who won't take their prewar car because they don't want to be around late models and rods. me, I prefer looking at stock early 30s but those days are gone, they were at their peak back in the 60s and 70s at local shows here.

Remove transmission Remove clutch pressure plate and disc. It drops out through the lower bell opening Remove flywheel and it drops down through the lower bellhousing, some cars need a wiggle side to side or angled a bit to clear obstructions inside the bell. Then you can get to "bell to block" bolts to remove the bell. It's very easy to slip and drop the clutch parts and especially the very heavy flywheel if it gets hung up, so try to stay clear, including your fingers and hands

I'm in CT where cars and trucks dissolve not only from salt but also dampness, rain, etc. Even water trapped in hidden places when you wash the car, won't dry out. There is a local old guy here that has a 74 Ford pickup bought new as his only vehicle. It is not rusted but he spends a lot of time oiling everything, and smearing grease every where he can reach. Most people would never do these messy looking tasks twice a year or once a year. There are no cars that won't rot away here in CT without such extreme measures like that guy does. I have not owned a semi modern car since 1995. Then about 20 years ago i became single, so now there is no semi modern car here to borrow from a spouse. If you only have a vintage car like me, and can't borrow one for when you have to leave the car in a place where it could be stolen or stripped while in a store, or parked in a big lot for a day, then you can't imagine how stressful it is. It gets old, worrying about a collector car whenever you park it. I'd buy something that nobody would care to steal. and yes it's good to get away from electronics in cars, but you will give up some MPG for one thing.

That is a model 25. A slightly bigger car than the older/first model 22. When I had Metz cars 30 years ago, somewhere I read a list of engine numbers to tell the year. there was a series of Metz articles in the AACA magazine for several months in 1967 but I'm not sure if the list is there. The AACA Library can make inexpensive copies of any Metz articles that they have. Yes it's a pain to search that way, but you could try there if you can't find that list of numbers elsewhere

I have that book and it does not show what he needs, except the 50 and 51 diagram does show the neutral safety switch. Those show the start wire comes from start switch going though the 2 terminal NSS then going to the starter.

One more antique car book says number is "on right side of frame, behind front fender opening". USA book, but says number should be 7 numbers total, (no letters), starting with 29-----

that side of the case is worn a lot. I would think it happened due to the fact that only one rear tire spins the most when the car was on snow, ice, or mud. Usually it's the same side that spins when the car is stuck in snow/mud. Usually the passenger side. The wheel that spins a lot when on snow/mud, has that sides' axle spider gear "not spinning" against that side of the case. But the other side (where that other tire is not spinning at all), the case itself is spinning against that sides' axle spider gear.

Those are oil channels. Think about the way the groove transends over the complete face of the thrust surface on every revolution. Some old bronze thrust washers have the same "orbiting" groove for oil.

I agree with the last posts that say people "don't notice" low mounted/ smaller size signal lights. I've been driving vintage cars exclusively since 1995 in eastern CT, so my best advice is yes to some type of signal lights, But to get the attention of todays drivers, a very bright 3rd brakelight mounted up high is what will get their attention, and then they will likely see the signal is also on. the 2 cars I have used as daily drivers year round with the most close calls, both had rear windows too small to add a decent sized 3rd brake light. (my current one included). I am 100% conviced that most people are trained subconsiously to "see" or "look for" a 3rd brakelight "first", but it has to be mounted up as high as modern cars have. I'm talking only during daytime, as they will see your lights at night no matter where they are. The worst thing with old cars is needing to turn left on a busy road and having to wait for oncoming traffic before you can turn. Some delivery companies plan their routes by never having to make a left turn, like UPS. They do it to save waiting time, but I also try to avoid being stopped in the road waiting to get slammed from behind.

Going by what I can see, your radiator neck has moved towards the rear of the radiator shell. That neck was rubbing on the opening in the chrome shell and it looks like the back underside of your radiator cap was pulling up on the neck. (The back side of the neck is also too low which is why the cap is pulling up in the back of the neck) I once had 29 DeSotos and the only things that could cause the neck to be doing that, are: There should be a small 2 hole steel bracket soldered to the top tank just behind the back of the radiator filler. (look under both hood sides) Then 2 countersunk flathead screws hold the radiator shell to the tank bracket in the correct spot. So, either the screws fell out, or more likely, the solder failed on that small bracket. As far as how to hold the cap for that one trip, I can't think of something that would guarantee that your cap won't fall off, get lost, or damage a fender. I have a daily driver 1932 car that I leave in store parking lots, etc, so I just use a cheap round stainless steel cap that nobody would steal. I'm thinking if you can find one of those, either a stainless rad cap or even a gas cap, just "glue" one on the day before your tour with RTV sealer. That would only work if your car never needs coolant added each day of your tour.

Just a guess; maybe the 2 halves were taken apart years ago, but put together 180 out when they put it back together? If that is what happened, maybe the cracks happened because the 2 halves just don't line up without gaps and severe stress if they put them 180 out?

We need a pic or two of your spare box showing what you adjusted. I need to see that eccentric adjuster, as well as "the screw" that you then tightened after. The 32 Dodge ? car box i had as well as my 32 Nash, did have an eccentric adjuster with locknut. That adjuster moves the separate pitman/sector shaft cast "housing" closer to the centerline of the worm shaft/gear and it's cast housing. In other words, there are 2 castings of the gear box, and the eccentric makes the 2 castings "closer together" as far as clearance between the teeth and worm. On that box, there was no extra "screw" that would tighten the slop between sector gear teeth and the worm. I don't know of your box is the same, without pics. Shims; these sound like the adjustment shims for removing any up/down play of the worm and steering shaft. These make the bearing races tighter on the worm bearings. Too tight makes the worm feel too tight as you turn the worm with nothing else installed in the box yet. Too loose on the shims lets the worm move down and up, before it starts to rotate the pitman/sector shaft. Many people don't know that the worm gear has a specific high spot at center of the worm. That high spot must be where you adjust free play at steering wheel. The problem is that if something was adjusted wrong like steering links, your wheels are straight ahead as you adjust play, but you are not necessarily on the high spot. Either side of the high spot on the worm, there will be increasing amounts of freeplay so that the steering wheel can return on it's own as you come out of a turn. So, if the links are adjusted wrong, then you try in vain to remove all freeplay, because if you adjust for zero play at the wrong spot on worm, then you feel the gears bind as you steer across the "real" center of the worm. At that point, you back off on adjustment to stop that one certain spot of binding, but now have freeplay with wheels straight. one thing about grease; you should not use bearing grease as it is well stated in manuals that grease gets wiped off the contact point of worm and sector, where as "fluid" does not. Many here use agricultural product called corn head grease, but actually it's a fluid. It prevents wear to contact surfaces far better than bearing grease can. When new, there was zero play with wheels straight.

Did you send the box with the column tube still attached? If not, I've had a few cars around 1929-1930 that groaned badly while turning the wheel but car was not moving. The upper bushing in the outer column tube was some sort of swollen petrified rubber that was causing that binding and noise. But that's with a heavy load on the inner shaft, and that load flexes that shaft. i don't think the shaft can flex while driving as there would be far less load, but if that bushing is too tight as you are driving, the car will wander badly just like when a king pin is frozen up. any binding in any steering component will definitely cause the car to wander really badly.

Maybe they never had the correct patterns identified for every model of late 20s Mopar? Nearly 50 years ago, 1972-73, I ordered a system for 1929 DeSoto from the original founder, Burton Waldron. Everything fit and bolted up fine, except the long curve going up to manifold was not the right curve radius. I had to permanently remove the engine splash pan because the curved part of the front pipe did not line up with the exhaust hole in that pan. that front pipe needed a tighter radius bend, but i think it would be difficult for you to use Waldrons measurements to be sure the curve has the bend in the correct spot. The small hole in the splash apron leaves no room for even a slight error., so I don't know of a good way to make a pattern to send to them. i never complained or sent it back as it was only $30 shipped US mail including muffler and tailpipe, without clamps. I just wanted to be able to drive the car right away, and I felt that I got my moneys worth from Burton back then. There were no local custom bent pipe places back then, so his system was far better than not having anything at all.

We are not there to measure things or look at everything. The most important starting point of body wood install, is that the front door hinge pillar must be 90 degrees to the main wooden body sill. You must get that correct first, and let us know if it's wrong. Your front door gap to the cowl looks fairly good between the 2 hinges, so that is a good thing. Also, the main wooden lowest body sill needs to be 100% level with the top of the car chassis frame when doing wood. So, the front pillar must be set at 90 degrees to the main lower wood sill, and that wooden sill also needs to be level with chassis to start finding out what is wrong. It could be that the main body shell got bent out of shape when wood was gone, or it could be that the back of body is too high, but those are foolish guesses until we know if the hinge pillar is at 90 degrees. Any body rewooding must start with the cowl and firewall sitting parallel with the sill, and parallel with the chassis. The firewall should also be 90 degrees to the chassis, measured in front of the firewall. The cowl and front hinge pillar must be correct, before going any further, like trying to shim the cowl to fix the door. (Don't try to fix one mistake with more mistakes, start with the cowl and get to perfect 90 degrees). Yes, body to frame shims are sometimes used after the body is all frebuilt, but those are only to make very minor adjustments, not major ones like your problem.

Not super rare by any means, but 33/34 Dodge pickups had always been desirable to restorers and especially rodders. Pricing is impossible right now, a major project type vehicle was always bought by person with not enough money for a much nicer one, or one that is finished. So, with the insane inflation on anything needed to just live, those people won't have any spare money for frivolous purchases, especially this time of year.

The six cylinder frame numbers ran from 51001 to 102103. "Frame number" is the ID number of the car, also known as serial number or Vin The big book of US cars is where I found the frame numbers, but it says they have no info on engine number ranges. your number on your title is way too high to be the frame number/ AKA vin/ AKA serial number of your 1934 car.

Move number 2 to number 5 because 3 and 4 need to be fully understood before pricing can be sensible for a given buyer. I agree with the poster that said you really need to drive one of these first, especially at that crazy money. Yes, barely a 40mph car like nearly all makes were that sold to most new car buyers in mid 20s. If (enjoyably) driving them is a primary objective on todays paved battlefield of planning on what the other cars near you are doing..... You may save many thousands of dollars on a forced resale, because right now YOU are the only potential buyer of that very overpriced and very low popularity era of Nash. You will lose your arse if you nave to get rid of it when you realize it's not up to the task. In a new post, you say 30-40K price range. We are all different in visual desires, but that kind of money would get you into a 4 door open car much newer (mid 1930s), that can actually be used a lot and enjoyed. Back to number 4, many long time hobbyists really have their head in the sand as far as grasping the reality of the rapidly shrinking prewar hobby, as well as them bragging that they saw "a" (just one) young guy in his 20s drive a 1920s car to a show. Heck, most small town shows and cruises you see on Youtube should be a wake up call. Very few ever get driven, and less each year. Some stuff is banned here, so all I can say is that the population is dying off a tad bit faster (called "excess deaths"), as well as infertility issues growing faster for the last 2 years. Meaning even more vintage cars will soon, or within 2-3 years, be in the market from estates, or serious health issues, overflooding a flooded market. The new people born or ones immigrating here won't be buying prewars or collector cars. I'm not anti prewar, but am a realist at 70. I live alone with only 2 registered vehicles here, my primary year-round one is a 1932, and the spare one is a 1966 truck. Both are modified as to cruise speeds and drivability for todays needs. My unfinished project 1932 Nash is also modified with a better gear ratio, as I just know it would have been useless to me and crappy to drive with stock 4.73 ratio. I won't own something that i can't use, or if i find that I don't want to drive it due to it's low speeds on my secondary roads.

40- 45 years ago, the announcer said "There is a group of professional pick-pocketers working the crowd, we suggest that you put your wallet in your front pocket". Everybody as far as you could see, was reaching for their wallets at the same time.

I'm not a safety cop, but that house drain hose adapter will be saturating in gas when the tank is full. I can't believe it could be fuel proof and if it's not, it would soften up like jello and likely will start leaking or fail completely. Buy another one and put it in a jar of gas to see what happens to be on the safe side, if you can't find proof that it is fuel proof. One option is to have a steel exhaust adapter welded to the filler pipe so that the correct fuel filler hose would fit.

There never was a solid "soffit board". What was there is more identical top material on the underside to block the wind and rain. It covered those sockets too. That material is held to the top of the windshield frame with lift-the-dots. Then the 2 hole oval thin aluminum plate protects that material from being torn when the top is lowered onto the posts. And yes, they always had the locking wingnut. Even then, they sometimes loosen as the body twists, and with normal wear on the posts and tip of the main wing bolt.

Is the front pillar wood old, or was it replaced with new wood? If old wood, the screws could be pulling out. Then the upper hinge might not sit flat on the soft or damaged wood. The hinge plate would then be angled rearward, making the hinge pin centerline too far back. No matter new or old wood, your upper hinge pin centerlines need to move forward to lift the back end of the doors back up. It will be impossible to adjust hinges if the wood is bad. If it's not bad and still very solid at the hinges, a tapered shim behind the INNER edge of the hinge could help. That would move the pin centerline forward.

I'd have a hard time removing all traces of that dent. "a cow kicked it there" ...priceless moment needs to be shared forever

That's just not true. People like to see things being done, and many people simply don't have spare money for a perfect project car, or the funds, tools or skills to do everything to show quality. It also encourages others to try to patch up an oldie, "If he can do it, maybe I can too". If only the best are shown here, that's just not real life. In other words, I prefer to see a person learn and show how they sew seats, rather than listen to a person show his interior that was just farmed out for $5000. And they tell us what went wrong and what they should have done differently. (You can't learn anything useful by only looking at receipts for pro work). i don't go to shows anymore because I have used ancient cars/trucks as my only transportation since 1995. So, wherever i went all those years, people start talking when you park. None ever showed any different reaction if one car was perfect or one was showing a very hard life. It's a totally different world if you get away from the trailered/show field life.