F&J

Early Jeep flat fours are notorious for hairline cracks near the distributor on the passenger side of the block. Most Jeep guys lightly grind the area to get it 100% shiny clean and that leaves a toothy surface that will allow the JB to bond perfectly and grip good. I did this to my son's 46 CJ2A well over 2 years ago and it's still leak free here in New England with air temps from upper 90s down to zero degrees in winter. It does have antifreeze which as some people know, that can tend to weep compared to just water. It does not weep at all. This is the most used vehicle on his tree farm and is used every few days. Yes it needs to be totally dry. Drain the system and preheat the block by running or propane torch, to make sure the crack is dried out. Let it cool to normal air temp, then use the JB. Disclaimer on what type of cracks: If a crack is vertical and goes up to, and underneath the head gasket, then JB won't prevent it from leaking at that gasket area. i'd wash the whole suspect area with degreaser a few times, get it dry and see exactly what and where it's leaking, (before trying to do anything). Sometimes leaks are not where we thought they were.

I can't answer your question, but : My Dad ran an auto repair shop in the 1950s. When he closed in 59, he put all his leftover new parts into storage. I went through the stuff in the late 60s and he had a handful of NOS pushrods like yours for flathead Ford. He did not waste money, and his was not a huge production shop, so I wonder if this was a very common part to replace when those engines were old? Why else would he stock more than one? Now after reading this post, i also wonder if they might have been oversize for a fast repair? I have no idea

US Post Office money order seems to be a good option for safety over taking possible bad checks; When the USPS money order arrives, your local post office can run the printed ID number instantly, to make sure it's legit. Then if your local PO branch does not have enough cash on hand to redeem it, you can deposit that postal MO at your bank, in your bank account. But get it checked at your post office first. On lower valued items where your post office likely has some minimal cash, you also bring the item with you to mail it using some of the money from the MO, then get the rest in cash.

The Model A's like you had were geared better than most other same age common cars (not counting exotic or high end brands). You should not buy a 1920s to very early 30s of another brand unless you are allowed to test drive it everywhere you want to use one. You might be shocked at how many brands "honestly" feel their best at 40! -45mph, and then trying to get to 50+mph sure sounds and feels like it's beating on the engine. (They just were not designed to do that). I see so many newcomers buy an early car, then get it delivered only to find out that the car is nothing but a road hazard in todays busy, and scatterbrain texting world and then they simply don't feel safe at all> ..then the car gets parked or put back up for sale (oh, and then you discover that so few people want it, or willing to pay anything close to what you did ! ). There is the reason why early prewars are never seen (alone) on the road except on some "organized tour" where you have to trailer it to get there to be able to drive in a pack of like-era cars for "defensive strength in numbers". Early Prewars are are dying hobby for the guy who just wanted to use it for pleasure drives and running town errands. (unless they are lucky enough to live in very rural unpopulated flat land, then it's really a fun hobby again ! ) I've seen Cal highways on police and traffic videos and can't believe you'd want to drive these cars there, even in off peak hours,.... but I can also see on maps that sometimes there is no other way to get where you are going. What I am getting to, is that buying by looks and how quaint it visually is, usually is a bad choice. You likely already realize that automobile refinements including cruise speeds, had radically advanced every couple of years past the mid 20s. the unfortunate part is that if you want that late 20s to very early 30s look, then you most likely won't be happy with buying something from mid-30s like a 36-38 Buick Century that will do very good in higher speeds and traffic, or another mid 30s with factory OD. All that said, my primary year round car for 3+ years is a 1932 which is my favorite year of most brands styling. (And I live alone so there is no modern car here to use). It has single circuit drum brakes, generator, vacuum wipers, points ignition, 3 speed with no syncro on first, and bias tires, but it's been repowered and geared up, (a lot).

Extended pilot bushing adapters were used in engine swaps in the 50s and 60s and came with bell housing adapters. It was made of steel with the bronze bushing pressed into the extension adapter. They will work unless your swap needs the bushing to be extended too far and then the clutch disc hits it. I made one on my lathe for putting a 50s Olds/Cad engine into a 40 Ford trans. In that swap, the Ford trans shaft end was too big of diameter, and also too short to reach the crankshaft.

It must have what is called a Clum Switch mounted in the lowest part of the steering box. Several things to consider if it's stiff. One would be if the box oil maybe leaked into the switch itself and now turned to a thick goo which makes it stiff.. or.. Secondly, The tube that goes down the column from the light switch knob, down through the box, has grease that turned to stiff goo, or maybe rust? This might be the culprit as I have seen cars with tubes that would barely turn. If you can get penetrating oil spray can with the red straw to fit under the horn button guts, and spray it a lot while working the switch lever? Just have to find the right spot to spray in there. It's been a long time since I knew how to disconnect the switch from that tube, to be able to then try the lever to see if it's still hard to move, with the switch disconnected. I "think" it's a center nut on the very bottom of that switch that squeezes part of the switch guts to that tube. Maybe somebody else can tell you exactly how to disconnect the clum switch from the tube.

Are you sure the box is at fault, or maybe the steering linkage was bent and is now stuck on something under the car? Or, if that car has a steering column lock on the column bracket, maybe something broke inside the lock cylinder and is now locking the column? Taking the box and column assembly out can be a nightmare as it needs to be slid down through the floor and removed from under the car. The car needs to be jacked way up on the front to have room to let the long column be able to clear everything. Then it gets worse as the steering wheel must be removed first which can be difficult to get the taper fit hub to break loose, and the center control lever tubes for throttle/spark (under the horn button) need to be disconnected under the hood, then the long tubes slide upwards and then out of the column...but they can hit the ceiling so you have to lower the column while doing that. Then you can get to the steering wheel nut. then if it is a problem inside the box, where to get better parts for such a rare car?

Thanks for the rear picture because I had wondered if the Victoria body had a bustle back like Fords do. I am now led to believe that the only difference is the rear seat styles? I have another question on 29 Dodge; was there a "normal" 2 door sedan where the body cabin came further back? (I once had a 1929 DeSoto 2 dr sedan and that body came back much further like most all other makes of 2 door sedan cars in those years.

Jon, I talked with that brother in person a month ago. He said that the car restoration shop broke "one casting" on his original 34 LaSalle carb. I suggested that he contact you on your website to see if you might have a spare Stromberg casting piece from a different car that would interchange with the broken casting on his. He did not know exactly which casting piece was broken because the car is still at that shop. My suggestion now is to get pictures of what is broken on his original carb so that a solution might happen. Either go to the shop to take pictures or have the shop send pictures to show which casting is broken.

This was at a farm type show in Eastern CT yesterday. I thought that there might be a few members that would like to see it. I did not put this in General Discussion because I thought it would be better appreciated here. I have had interest in all 29-31 Mopars since way back 50 years ago, and I've never seen one. I went to Hershey from 71 to 91 and can't recall seeing one there. To some, it is a 2 door sedan, but not really. It is what was called by body builders as "Close Coupled" as the body stops at the middle of rear fenders. Also, the trunk was a big part of the overall design, not just an option. I think it's called a Brougham by the factory? The elderly owner can't recall what year he bought it, but he then redid it and got in on the road in 2001. Yes, I know.... the wooden R-boards and one wrong taillight... but still... any comments you care to make? Do you care for it's style or not?, or if you know of other ones?...etc Sad to say that in my area, stock prewar cars of this timeframe have almost completely fallen out of fashion, and there seems to be none out driving on the roads and not even much interest in these old stock cars from spectators.

What that really means is that many people think they can put any old truck body onto a Chevy S-10 running chassis and just like magic, you now have it all ready to go in a few weeks. But so much of the newer chassis needs to be modified to make it steer and even fit properly. Those modern chassis swaps makes a person think that they are easily skipping all the work/money of rebuilding the original truck suspension, brakes, engine, etc. Most never get finished, because it's just more work of a different type....and...you still have to deal with the rust and rot on the original truck body parts But you can see that the owner never even tried to do that swap, as he likely has no skills or ambition to try it. Advice: We sometimes buy something just because it's in our local area. We would be better off finding the best one we can find in our price range even if we have to travel out of state. You might try putting a wanted ad on F/B Marketplace to see if there are any decent projects in your area. If you just keep looking at ads for sale on Marketplace, anything that's decent and priced OK seems to be sold in a few hours. That's why a wanted ad might work better; finding one that is not been advertised.

A beginner with no big garage and no extensive collection of tools and equipment, will simply never be able to save that one. A guy who has the shop, tools, and skills would never bother with one that rough. (because he knows just how much work, money, and years it would take)

Put it on Facebook Marketplace for your area, and it would be gone by nightfall. They will be fighting for it

That's one thing i'm lacking the last 2 years.. I force myself to go to the shop, (only in afternoons), and i can't be getting more than a couple hours a day. I'm facing the fact that I just don't want to do huge projects anymore, but i've put so much time/effort over the years that I just can't quit on it. I don't go to casinos but this must be like not wanting to leave the gambling table while you are losing. i used to either like the challenge of hopeless stuff and learning more skills?, or was i just keeping life out of my mind? I do know that when I bought a project for myself, it was something that really perked me up. I never could see how much work that a rough car really needed, I could only see what it once was. Not the best plan. Anyways, i have not posted much as I tried to struggle through the rest of sandblasting that i really hate. i ran out of sand on the big rear trunk, and now the local place is backordered on sand. So I switched to dents and bodywork on the parts that i did finish blasting. Here is the car with front fenders loosely on, i needed to use the headlight bar for that. Stuck my NOS fender parking lights on for inspiration. All dusty now. A problem I will face soon is that the running board aprons do not bolt to the chassis. They are held downwards onto the frame by the rubber body cushions. But you can't lower the body down on the cushions until the front fenders, running boards and rear fenders are on. Then the splash aprons can either be slid out or in, or front to back, to the fenders. The rear fenders need to be bolted to the body when the body is barely raised enough to still be able to slide the aprons. This seems like a nightmare, because the rear fender boltholes are elongated for adjustment. It seems like too many things will need adjusting all at the same time. . I was really sick of dent working and bodywork, so I quit on the 2 sidemount covers for now, to be able to concentrate on just the rear fenders. I got them painted late today when shade permitted. I will finish the tire covers when I get all the fenders, running boards back on. Then i'll move some stuff that's blocking the car in, to get it outside to see what it looks like. (for inspiration) Every part of this car was very dented, smashed, and banged up, it just wears me down. But what else was this car good for back when i got it? It was too uncommon of a body style to let somebody else buy it for parts

This is what blue collar teens did back in the 50s and 60s. We had way more fun with those patched up old cars than somebody who spends 100k+ on a resto then has to buy a big fancy truck and trailer to drag it to some distant show for "recognition". this fixer-upper approach may be the only hope for all those abandoned prewar projects that are flooding the market now that boomers are dying off or realize that they will never do anything with with them (and want to downsize/move to Florida, etc These survivor cars and trucks in my area get way more smiling lookers that showcars do. I think it may be that the onlookers can't relate to some showqueen, but the fixer-upper looks very appealing and more like ''reality"? nobody in my area drives stock prewars on the roads here anymore. 10 years ago there would be a few. I live on a main road, and only saw one this year, but have seen many rods and modified cars. At least I can get to see prewars out where they belong. Rodders use their cars, that is just reality here where i am.

Do you feel like you can finish it after all those decades? I'm 8 years younger and trying to finish a similar age car that i've had for 14? years. I did build other cars in those years. I lost a lot of drive and stamina since 4 years ago.

That guy won't restore anything, it will be like Matt said above. Many YouTube channels make money by doing "will it run" videos. Others do videos of dragging vintage cars out of fields and barns, so they buy cheap cars just to make the monetized video. One local Youtuber bought 2 cars from me 2 years ago. He said he'd only buy them if he could make the video on my property.

It's not pitted so it might be solid brass if it feels heavy for it's size. If brass, it very well could be for a boat. Some type of "aftermarket" add-on for a boater, as it's not very well detailed.

I just found out that I could not reply to any thread today. I could NOT even "sign out" to try to see if signing back in would help. I could not PM anybody. The only thing that still worked as a member, was that i could add a "like", nothing else worked. Joe, I have no cell to get onto the web, just a laptop with two different browsers installed. The problems are with my older browser that I've always used for this site, so I just signed in for the first time on my newer browser, and now I can make everything work. Every damn AACA "upgrade" has always caused me problems of some sort, but the staffmember just has to keep constantly screwing with things to make it "better". For example, I've lost count of how many times I had to relearn how to post a picture on here. Maybe it's time to stop fixing what ain't broke. Of course they will blame our issues on US, as they know they are always the smartest person on earth, OCD is more like it. My newer browser is "Brave". It was not hard to install as I recall, and I also believe it's a "lightweight program" which means it does not use up too much memory or space in an older PC or laptop. . One great thing is that it blocks all ads and pop-ups on any site including here (so, screw the AACA ads as payback for their meddling!!), and Brave blocks all of the incessant, annoying ads on Youtube too. Joe, I'd bet you are not a happy camper by now needing to spend time to figure out how to "fix" your device due to an "upgrade" ("downgrade" is much more appropriate); I know the feeling well.

This Nash is listed by a friend, and it is not a 1933. As the car was not moved out for cleaning and pictures, I will assume the owner is either very elderly, or housebound or ? . It is a "1932 second series" which came out in late spring of 32. It is a Model 1060 Big Six which is the only Nash with 4 hood vent doors per side. All other 32 Nash models were various sizes of inline 8's, all with 5 hood doors. A 1933 Big Six would have conventional hood louvers and an entirely different dashboard. All Nash models came with those metal tire covers as standard equipment including cars with rear spare, and many surviving cars are now missing those correct ones. It also has the "correct" optional rear trunk. If a person has been in the prewar hobby for 40-50-60 years, you can easily tell just from these few pictures that this was a high end, very picky restoration of a "previously mint survivor car". Looking at the runningboard trim reflections on the passenger side body panels, the doors fit perfectly, indicating solid wood. It also has the correct paint scheme and even the color too, which is Jennifer Blue/Black fenders. The crankhole cover is not there, and has incorrect runningboard trim but still a very exceptional car IMO. Prewar sales are dying out and this car needs to be at a classic/vintage showroom to find an appreciative buyer, IMO

This project car will be a tough sale at any price with "real" inflation rate at 30+%. Buyers of low demand make/model projects were people at lower incomes; and those people are really feeling the present economic situation that is getting far worse. A higher income person won't even look at something like this. Those are just facts. Any project car has gotten harder to sell over the last couple of decades. Flippers have always influenced final selling prices, as they would buy projects if the price was attractive, then they'd get it to run for quick resale. I can't see any flippers buying a low demand model in these economic times, so the selling price won't be bumped up by them. The painted chrome hints to damp storage, so this car sounds iffy. Perhaps try listing it on Facebook marketplace, and see if there is any interest at all. That seems to be the most active site for selling projects.

That 111 is a bargain. High quality and well regarded. It is a needle feed, meaning the needle itself "walks" (which helps pull the fabric), as well as the feed dogs in the bed are pulling the material from below, too. My old Singer 16-141 Industrial does not have the needle feed, it's a walking foot, but still does what I need on car stuff. here is a good YT video on a 111 with all the info you need to know. In the video you can see that it's not a walking foot, it's a walking needle/AKA needle feed. Very impressive when the guy sews foam, mine likely would have had the foot dig into the soft stuff like that

1940 Ford "Standard" model. A 1940 "Deluxe" would have a different grille with horizontal grille bars, as well as chromed headlight rims.

LOL...Give some of the negative guys here a well deserved b--chslap, this website has it's issues for sure. Very unfriendly at times IMO, and these snotty childish idiots don't realize their precious prewar/early car hobby is aging out FAST, and they don't seem to care if they drive new people away. I do not know what your chassis is, but some guys on this site are good at identifying makes/years by certain details. I sure think it's more like mid 1920s back to maybe late teens? IDK, but does not look 1913 details. Give the good members some time to spot your pics before you stop coming here.

No, it is needed on cars with very short windshields. Without the dual linkage, the blade will not be able to sweep the entire vision area. The dual arm linkage constantly changes the angle of the blade compared to the angle of the main arm as it moves across the W/S. That stainless "wire rod" slides "in and out" inside that special wiper blade attachment as the wiper sweeps from side to side, just like a trombone slide. Simple idea, but very fascinating if you get to watch one work. Semi modern/modern cars have similar "dual arm functioning" so that the wipers can sit level at their lowest point, and also to not hit the driver side windshield post. my 34 Lasalle conv also uses the 2nd rod, because the W/S glass is only 6" tall at center. The 34 LaS closed cars don't have it.