Pete Phillips Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 What am I doing wrong? Been trying to pull the LR brake drum for two weeks. My 1963 Chrysler New Yorker needs new brake shoes. I have repeatedly sprayed penetrating oil, have beat on it with a hammer, have what I think is the correct three-legged drum puller on it with so much force turning it that I can no longer get it any tighter, still no luck. Pete PhillipsLeonard, Texas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 (edited) Looks to be the correct puller. Are you using a BIG hammer and hitting the dogbone just as hard as you possibly can? Also, be certain that the puller is tight to the studs and axle. Go here, read this and try again. Don't forget the part about adjusting the brake shoes ALL of the way in.....http://forums.aaca.org/f145/1947-chrysler-rear-brake-drum-removal-364757.html Edited January 12, 2014 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 (edited) I usually place the dog bone horizontally as it is easier for me to hit with the hand sledge that way. . . I've heard that some people with heavy duty 1/2 inch impact guns with a good high pressure air supply simply use that instead of the dog bone and a sledge hammer. But the hammer has always worked for me and my puller looks identical to the one in your photos.As Keiser31 mentioned, do check that the brakes have been backed off.I don't see the axle nut reinstalled part way. Do that for two reasons: 1) Keeps the puller from messing up the threads. And 2) Keeps the drum from flying across the room and damaging something or hurting someone when it finally lets go. Edited January 13, 2014 by ply33 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeke01 Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Once you have the puller TIGHT against the axle, hit the middle of the "T" with a hard lick. Does wonders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
61polara Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 If you are using the hammer in the first photo, you will never get it off. You need a hand sledge hammer. A couple of hits with the sledge and it should be off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 If you are using the hammer in the first photo, you will never get it off. You need a hand sledge hammer. A couple of hits with the sledge and it should be off.Wow....I almost didn't see that hammer. It's as small as the screwdriver next to it. YES! Get a bigger hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 If you are using the hammer in the first photo, you will never get it off. You need a hand sledge hammer. A couple of hits with the sledge and it should be off.Wow....I almost didn't see that hammer. It's as small as the screwdriver next to it. YES! Get a bigger hammer.I didn't see it until 61polara mentioned it. Way too small! Here is the one I use. And, if I had one bigger, I'd probably use it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 My god here we go again!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 My god here we go again!!!! Use a big hammer, be a big man and swing hard! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfreakofkorn Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 tap around the drum a bit ( to break anything loose ) and do at what the fellow members have mentioned, swing at it =) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hchris Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 tap around the drum a bit ( to break anything loose ) and do at what the fellow members have mentioned, swing at it =)Agree with all of the above but most importantly dont expect it to come off on day 1, you will need to keep tightening the tension and banging with a hammer, leave it and come back for a day or two more, repeating until it lets go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 It will come off in a day if you do it right! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 It will come off in a day if you do it right!Agree Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StillOutThere Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 I have used a TEN POUND SLEDGE HAMMER and not at the dogbone but at the end of the puller shaft. Always worked. Never hurt the center of the differential. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 I have used a TEN POUND SLEDGE HAMMER and not at the dogbone but at the end of the puller shaft. Always worked. Never hurt the center of the differential.Given the design of the axle, I'd be more worried about damaging the wheel bearings doing that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnGB Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 Another thing to try (worked for me); found a socket that would fit the end of the puller shaft instead of the dogbone. Used it with a rachet handle with a 4 foot pipe as an extender. After I pulled it tight, just gave it an extra click every couple hours. Took 2 days, but it worked! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigaadams Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 the Spicer design rear axles are a pain to deal with...I have had a few snug ones now and again and not until this Volvo with the Spicer did I have ever to resort to a more aggressive method of removal. DO NOT SMACK THE END OF THE PULLER is a big big red flag in the book, internal damage could result. I used a 5 foot cheater bar on my dog bone along with my 200 lbs of body...then carefully place not one, but two propane torches to the left and right side of the hub at the same time..one side popped loose in about 4-5 minutes while the other took about 9-11 minutes of heat..both did pop without slamming the end of the puller or beating on the drum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rls120 Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 the Spicer design rear axles are a pain to deal with...I have had a few snug ones now and again and not until this Volvo with the Spicer did I have ever to resort to a more aggressive method of removal. DO NOT SMACK THE END OF THE PULLER is a big big red flag in the book, internal damage could result. I used a 5 foot cheater bar on my dog bone along with my 200 lbs of body...then carefully place not one, but two propane torches to the left and right side of the hub at the same time..one side popped loose in about 4-5 minutes while the other took about 9-11 minutes of heat..both did pop without slamming the end of the puller or beating on the drum.He's right! I don't have the hammer attachment for my puller, so I removed a drum on my '50 Windsor by smacking the shaft with a sledge. . .which worked great. . .and then the next week I replaced the bearing and the seals. Trust me, you don't want to go there! I use a 3/4" drive breaker bar, which is enough for me. If I needed more, I'd try the pipe leverage and heat trick.Don't smack that shaft! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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