Gary_Ash

Apparently, my 1965 Studebaker Commander Wagonaire has been treating me well. But, on a recent 160 mile trip, I did notice that the tires seemed to have flat spots or belt separation that didn't go away when the tires warmed up. They still have lots of tread but I went looking for the date codes. Of course, with the whitewalls, the data codes were not on the exposed side of the tire so I had to crawl on my belly to get under the back end to see the date code: 3202. That means the tires were made in week 32 of 2002. I guess 22 years isn't too bad for a set of tires and never had a flat, but it is time for a new set. Now the trick will be to find some P205/75R15 tires with narrow whitewalls. I know I can order them from Coker, but I'm hoping a local tire shop where I usually do business can get some. My Wagonaire with model Jade posing during a photo shoot for a fashion retailer.

The OP is a first-time poster, hasn't been back to the site since he posted. His 1940 President has a 250 cubic inch engine, a smaller block than the 337 cu in engines, different parts.

I used four downdraft Stromberg EX23 carbs (1935-37 vintage) on my Studebaker straight 8. I had aluminum elbows cast to match the intake ports. Corky Coker's replica of the Buick-powered Shafer 8 Indy car uses four Stromberg 97's on elbows. My 250 cu in Studebaker straight 8. The copper tubes are for vacuum balance between cylinders. Corky Coker's replica of the Shafer 8 with four Stromberg 97's.

The planar front suspensions of 1939 and 1941 Studebaker Presidents have completely different parts except for the steering knuckles. Yes, the springs are different. Without seeing the drawings for the main leaf, it would be difficult to determine if it would fit. Perhaps a truck spring shop could make a new leaf. Have him take the whole spring assembly to the spring shop so they can match the curve and re-assemble the spring. He might need to sew up a new spring cover. 1939 planar front suspension 1941 planar front suspension

Then and Now Automotive in Weymouth does vulcanizing of rubber-to-metal parts. Give them a call. 781.335.8860

The reality is that gasoline has changed. It used to be that you could shut the car off and gas would stay in the carb. Now the fuel is much more volatile so the carb becomes dry. An electric fuel pump helps to fill the carb bowl to get the car started when the engine is hot or after sitting for a while. It's not that hard to hide an electric fuel pump and a switch to activate it to start the car. But, it sure helps a lot to have one! My 1941 Studebaker Commander is very happy to have an electric fuel pump and so am I.

For the Studebaker truck, try these: https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/sale-want-found-cars https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/studebakertrucktalk/ As mentioned in the above posts, be sure to state the location, condition, and price. State if running or not. Include photos of front, side, interior, and engine compartment. Photo sizes should be about 1024 x 768.

President Taft's White steamer is in the Heritage Museum in Sandwich, MA.

George: Try Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax or Minwax paste finishing wax.

@VintageRacingCar Fred: There were rumors that one of the Studebaker Indy cars was sold to someone in Argentina about 1935. The Studebaker car #46, now in Switzerland, was re-constructed (maybe) in Indiana in the late 1970s or early 1980s, supposedly using a chassis and other pieces that had been shipped from Argentina to Germany and then to Indianapolis. The parts of the old car were imported to Germany by Manfred Eiberweiser, a Mercedes dealer in Deggendorf. Are there any racing records or photos that would prove that one of the 1932 Studebaker factory cars ever raced in Argentina? I posted the Reklus link just to show that some of the cars from Argentina are not really original. Neither are the PurSang Bugattis, but the PurSang cars are very good, as you say.

This might be why: https://www.thebrander.com/en/lifestyle/reklus https://issuu.com/emiremux/docs/2021.05_reklus_brochure

@Craig Chapman This post should be down in the Studebaker section. There are always parts stashes in people's basements or garages, some of them have sets of bearings. You may get lucky, but it won't be quick or easy for a Studebaker straight 8 engine. Best chances are for standard size bearings. The ultimate option is to have someone apply a new, thick layer of babbitt to the original shells, install them in the block, and line bore them to final size. You didn't say where you are in B.C., it's a big place. There must be some capable shops in the Seattle area. Try contacting the LeMay Museum in Tacoma. They may know of some shops that could work on your engine. I'm in Massachusetts, not much help to your project, and the guy who did my 1937 engine is no longer working. Here is the drawing for the thrust washer that goes on the front end of the crank. I never found any of these, reused the old one.

From yoyopart.com: Descripition: Inside Diameter: 28.58 mm,1.125 in Outside Diameter: 39.93 mm,1.572 in Width: 4.75 mm,0.187 in Interchange: Timken/National 240151, Fel-Pro 14134, and lots more numbers from Yoyopart.com BUT, it is Studebaker part number 190276, apparently still in use right to the end. Most Studebaker vendors will carry this part. See this one on Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/182528349508

Here is the drawing from the 1929-1940 Chassis Parts Catalog for the 1930-31 transmission for 8 cylinder Commander and President cars.

My recollection of the Bell System exchanges was that there were standard exchange names that had some local relevance, like PEnsylvania 6-5000. Other areas might have the same numbers on the dial but different names. As a kid in Baltimore in the 1950s, our phone number was BElmont 5908 but later upgraded to BElmont5 5908. As I recall, they then issued Belmont 7 and Belmont 9 numbers. There is a website on line that will link your current 3-digit number exchange to the old names.

Ask Lee at The Brassworks: https://www.thebrassworks.net/collections/speedster-tanks

@michael.stumpf Michael: Pre-war race cars used magnetos because they didn't have batteries, generators, and sometimes no starter, to save weight. While there are new modern and used old magnetos around, some machine work would be needed to adapt one to your engine. And, you said you only have $$ not $$$$$, so that may limit you. In any event, your 320 engine isn't going to wind up much over 4,000 rpm, so a good distributor should be more than enough. See this about transmissions: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/buick-straight-8-manual-trans-choices.716745/ A 3-speed transmission with overdrive might meet your needs for limiting highway rpms, but did Buick have one? Adapting something else will take some engineering. Otherwise, see the Gear Vendors website for an add-on overdrive unit which would work with your current transmission. https://www.gearvendors.com/restorationclassic.html

Here in southeastern Massachusetts, we had about 89% totality, just a few wisps of clouds in the sky. My small weather station records temperature, humidity, sunlight intensity, etc. We saw the sunlight intensity drop from about 700 watts/square meter down to 25 watts/square meter. At the same time, the temperature dropped from 62 °F to 54 °F. While the sunlight and temperature recovered somewhat, it was already late enough in the afternoon that the sun was getting low in the sky. Sunlight intensity during eclipse. Temperature drop during eclipse.

I have a backhoe here and I know how to use it!😁

Many people have used Uvira, Inc. in Grants Pass, OR, 541-474-5050. They do a vacuum deposition process that is more durable than silver. You probably need to have your reflectors nickel plated first before sending. The cost is about $75-80 each.

I went through this process in Massachusetts for my replica 1932 Studebaker Indy car. It was created from scratch, including the chassis, but used engine, transmission, axles, steering, etc. from pre-war Studebakers. Once I had an application for a title filled out and a fee paid to the Registry, they sent me to a state police inspection station that usually deals with cars rebuilt from wrecks. I brought the car in my trailer. I presented my pile of receipts and signed bills of sale for many of the pieces I bought along with photos of their original condition and during the build. The police inspector looked through them, said OK, and put a state issued serial number on the chassis of the car. I was exceedingly lucky that the state policeman wrote on the application that it was a 1932 car because that meant I could get antique car insurance and I didn't have to have fenders, as now required for any car post-1948 in MA. Annual inspection is also easier for antiques. I then went back to the Registry where they also went through the pile of receipts. This time, they wanted to add up the cost of the car so that they could charge me 6% sales tax on the value. Apparently, I had enough to satisfy them, and they didn't count the thousands of hours of my labor in the value. I paid the tax and title fee, was issued a title and then got license plates. While it did take some time, all the people I dealt with were courteous and helpful, a pleasant surprise. I recommend talking to the person at your state registry/motor vehicle dept. who is in charge of interpreting the rules. There will be one, the trick is to find him/her and have a chat about what you are trying to do. The words, "I need some help, please" will go a long way. Keep the person's phone number handy if you encounter a problem at the registry.

Would a later BXOV-26 also fit. This was the model used after 1939 on Commander 6 engines. It might make your search a little easier. Here's one on Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/234782339106

The series 82 President used the 250 cu in straight 8 while the series 92 used the 337 cu in engine. The big engine is about 4 inches longer. The 250 cu in block looks the same up to 1937; after that the water pump was moved from the side to the front of the engine through 1942, but internal parts are mostly the same. The frame pieces and engine mounts are different between models 82 and 92. Switching between engines would not be simple.

MicroMark carries the SolvaSet and other chemicals for water-slide decal work. I usually top coat the dried decals with a water-based acrylic varnish like Minwax Polycrylic using a fine camel hair brush, just a thin coat.

We have a 2022 Ford Expedition XL with the V6 and twin turbos. The truck weighs 6,000 lbs, easily hauls my tall 20 ft enclosed aluminum trailer (2500 lbs) and any of my antique cars. We’ve driven from Mass. to Indiana with the loaded trailer. Normal mileage is 18-20 mpg, about 10-12 with the full trailer, depending on how hilly it is. Seeing what’s behind the trailer is tough. I need to get a video camera that mounts on the rear of the trailer.