Gary_Ash

You also have to say where the car is. New Hampshire isn't the largest state by any means, but it is still almost 200 miles from north to south. Traveling east-west is very difficult as there are few roads. And, this week, many places had 6" to 18" of snow.

The flow restrictor may be built into the filter housing on the filter inlet side. Some filter housings have an external orifice in a small brass fitting. They usually have a hole diameter of 0.045" to 0.060". That will flow about 1 quart per minute through the filter at 30-40 psi on the oil pressure gauge. No "active" regulator is required. The 3/16" line surprisingly doesn't limit the flow very much compared to the orifice. Within the filter housing, the filter cartridge itself has very low pressure drop so the oil runs freely back to the crankcase. Warm engine oil is typically close to 100 °C/212 °F, has a viscosity about like water at room temperature. I measured the flow through an 0.060" orifice by hooking up my garden hose to a brass orifice and pressure gauge. The graph below projects flow of smaller orifices using hydraulic theory. Flow vs. pressure for several orifice sizes for 10W-30 oil at 212 °F. An external orifice Even an external oil filter will quickly clean engine oil - and keep it clean. As shown in the graph, about 20 minutes of driving will remove 99% of whatever was in the oil when the engine was started. The oil doesn't become dirty again when the engine is turned off so the oil gets cleaner with time.

Like our old cars, you can only get to 30 years with lots of regular maintenance - and the occasional high-maintenance expenditures. 🤣

Craig: I can’t believe you forgot Raymond Loewy!

Try the circle at the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. Twelve roads meeting, no lines marking the way. It’s fun to watch what happens from the top of the monument.

C.M. Hall Type A was used on Studebaker ES Presidents in 1925-1928 period, one per car. Early ones were nickel plated, later ones chromed. Reference is 1925 to 1928-1/2 Studebaker 6 Parts Catalog.

Buy it! You will always regret it if you don't. Will there be pain and expense? Of course, but that is part of the experience. Enjoy!

In my senior year of high school in 1961, I bought a very used 1950 Ford convertible from a kid in the neighborhood for $50. I think every fender, hood, and door was a different color, including brush-painted green zinc chromate primer. I covered the worst colors with gray primer, later painted the whole car with forest green using spray cans. The flathead V8 engine was great, but something was misaligned with the clutch and gearbox so the synchronizers went out every couple weeks - I got good at rebuilding the transmission. The top was rotten, so I took one off another Ford in a junkyard and nailed it on. At the end of the summer, I sold the car for $75. About 1980, some family friends offered me a free 1968 Mustang convertible. I went from eastern Mass. to the NY metro area to pick it up and drive it home. It had no muffler and no floors in the back seat area. Those were easy fixes and I drove the car for a couple of years. I forget how I got rid of it.

It looks more like a bead has been rolled in the end of the tube. The bead just needs to be made deep enough that the flange catches solidly. Now to find a bead roller…

Gee, I thought that axle looked familiar, LOL. I sent my differential out to a local shop that specializes in Studebakers to get new bearings and be adjusted. I do have the service books for 1928-30, will look in them to see if there is a suggested method for adjustments. However, I'm just on my way out the door for a couple of days, will get back to you when I return.

When we went to the ASC/SDC meet in Manitowoc, WI this year, I bought two Studebaker service pins from a vendor with a plan in mind. Each pin was for 30 years of service and my wife Jane and I are quickly approaching our 30th wedding anniversary. I took the pins to a local jeweler who removed the threaded stems from the backs of the pins and attached fittings for earrings. He also polished them up and replaced the small ruby that was missing from one pin. Jane is very happy with her new earrings.

The 1929 tie rod ends went out in the mail today, will be a late-arrival Christmas present. Enjoy!

Back in March 2011, my wife and I went to Grass Valley so I could take metal forming classes from Kent White at Tin Man Tech in N. San Juan, a few miles from Grass Valley. Kent had said that in March the snow is over, but it snowed heavily the 2nd day we were there. It was pretty slippery getting back to the hotel in Grass Valley that evening, and I drive in New England snow every year. The snow soon melted. There was an old Packard dealership/garage in Grass Valley back then. Kent White demonstrating how to form a reverse curve in an aluminum sheet. Packard garage in Grass Valley, CA.

While putting the fate of a car in your will is not the worst thing you can do, there are other, better methods of dealing with this. Proper wills can be expensive to create and expensive to change. So, if the car is disposed of or your wishes change before you go, the will needs to be changed. Better is to simply write a document and sign it describing your desired fate of the car and simply attach it to a copy (or copies) of the will. You can easily take that document back and write a new one if needed. In the ideal world, your attorney and your financial adviser - two separate people - should discuss the financial consequences of having cars in your estate and make a plan for you. Donations to a 501(c)(3) qualified museum will take the car out of your estate without tax consequences to your family. @Scooter Guy has pointed out the limitations of what museums will accept as conditions leaving loans or straight donations as the most likely paths. Most importantly, pay a good attorney to advise you and do the paperwork.

I remembered I had a copy of John Shanahan's article about 1930ish tie rod ends. A note about using ES185R and ES185L tie rod ends: To avoid having to make a new tie rod, I think some threaded sleeves could be used. Take a 6" length of 1" o.d. x 5/8" i.d DOM steel tube, bore the i.d. to about .690"-.695" and thread for 3/4-16 to a depth of 2.75"-3.00". Turn the o.d to about 0.980" and thread the outside for 1"-16. Those will be loose fit threads but strong enough. Cut off a 2.5" length of threaded tube. Repeat for the left-hand threaded version, inner and outer threads. Insert the sleeves into the tie rod ends and pin in place or use blue Loctite on the 1"-16 threads. It might require using a 3/4-16 short bolt as a tool to drive the tube into the tie rod end. Then the original tie rod can be used. I think the tie rod and end threads are 16 threads/inch but double check with a thread gauge.

You can also donate your cars to a museum, but it's important to have the conditions of the donation in writing and signed by an authorized person from the museum. While your car may appear in the museum for some time, cars are frequently "de-accessioned", meaning the museum sells them. You can have conditions that specify if the museum no longer wants the car, that they give it back to your family for free. Sometimes, museums sell off cars as soon as they receive them if there is no previous agreement to display and maintain them. For the most part, once the car leaves your garage, anything can happen.

I searched the garage, found the old tie rod ends from the 1929 President. The male end of the ball stud has a 9/16" thread, taper is as noted above. I tried them in the steering arms of the Dictator (Model 55 or 56?) that I took for my Indy car's 1929 President front axle. The female thread on the tie rod end housing is 3/4" dia., maybe 3/4-16. They are used, somewhat worn, but should be useable. I have both the left and right sides. I don't have the felt/rubber seals but those can be easily made. Price is $50 for the pair plus shipping. I also checked that the ES185 tie rod ends fit the Dictator arms even though the stud is threaded 5/8 instead of 9/16. Tie rod end from 1929 President. Ball diameter is 1". Parts don't exactly coincide with 1929-40 parts book lists, so may have been replacement ends.

I believe that the TRW ES185R and ES185L tie rod ends will fit steering arms in your car. They are nominally designed for 1941-1949 International trucks. The problem is that the threads that screw onto the tie rods are different diameter than your tie rod. Tie rods are normally made in one piece by swaging down the ends to a smaller diameter (which thickens the metal), then threading. I think a new rod can be made by threading steel round bar, sliding it into a larger diameter tube, and welding it together. Some states do not allow any welding on steering parts, though. The tie rod end companies, like Moog, will not assist you in suggesting a tie rod end from another car because of liability issues. It is also difficult to get specs on the length of the tapered section, its large and small diameters, and the thread size. I went through this when trying to find tie rod ends for a 1929 Studebaker President axle, very frustrating. In the end, I used a tie rod and ends from a later Dictator but had to add threads to the rod. The tapered male ends did fit. I do have an NOS pair of the ES185 ends. The female tie rod thread seems to be 1"-16. The male end has a 5/8 thread, thread length 0.975", taper length about 1.00", big end .809" dia., small end .687" dia. You can have these for $50 plus shipping, USPS flat rate box. If they don't fit, you can send them back. I may have my old tie rod ends. If so, I'll go double-check the stud dimensions.

Even lawnmower engines have moved to OHV configuration. I have read that even a few pounds of supercharger boost will really wake up a flathead. Perhaps the Graham Supercharger is a good example of extending the capabilities of a flathead. The Graham got 124 hp from 217 cu in six with about 3.5 lbs of boost. Earlier, there was a supercharged eight making 135 hp from 265 cu in. There were also aftermarket superchargers for Ford flathead V8s. For many years, the website at Uncommonengineering.com showed examples of Hudson 306 cu in six-cylinder engines that had been modified to beat the band, including superchargers. That site is now gone. I'll have to look for any photos I downloaded.

Must be an AI image. Note that woman has no left hand and leg length proportions are impossible.

My wife was cleaning out a desk that belonged to her late father. She brought home 7 aluminum coins given out by Sunoco about 1969. The coins are aluminum, 26 mm diameter, all in excellent condition. The coins are for these cars: 1901 White Steamer 1905 Apperson Model B Tourer 1910 Sears High Wheeler 1917 Pierce Arrow Model 66 1920 DuPont tourer 1922 Daniels Town Brougham 1923 Oldsmobile 6 I'll send them for free to the first person who wants them.

Yes, I talk to the cars in the garage, play music to soothe them. They are watched over by Larkina, the Service Manager, a voluptuous clothing store manequin dressed in a shop coat, sweater, slacks, and long scarf. She is a good listener, never argues with me. Some times, when I have human visitors, they first start looking at the cars and only later do they look up, see Larkina in the back of the garage, and freeze in shock. I swear I have seen her wink. The garage with three of the five Studebakers. Larkina, the service manager.

Another slide rule, but a very old one: We were in the History of Science Museum at the University of Oxford (England) today where I saw this slide rule made of wood, about 2 ft long. It was labeled as a navigation slide rule from the late 18th century, making it about 250 years old. It was beautifully made. Nearby was a blackboard that Albert Einstein had written some lecture equations on in the 1930s. The writing was still there and legible. https://www.hsm.ox.ac.uk/blackboard-used-by-albert-einstein The old slide rule. Note the screw adjustment on the left end for fine movements.

You can replace the aluinum head with an iron one. See this previous discussion:

I didn’t buy here another car but I did buy two Studebaker 30-year service pins. They are 10 carat gold, include a tiny ruby at the bottom. We’ll have our 30th anniversary in 2024, so I thought the 30 year ones were appropriate. The jeweler sawed off the large threaded posts on the backs, then drilled the tops for some earring loops. They will go well with the diamond and ruby rings I have given to her over the years. I just have to keep them secret a few more weeks.