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Everything posted by hchris

  1. compression results and spark plugs

    You don't say what year your engine is, post 1935/6 most of the Mopar engines introduced a distribution cooling tube behind the water pump which were designed to enhance coolant flow around the valve seats, they are notorious for corroding out with resultant lack of cooling in this area of the block Compressions look reasonable (I`m assuming this is an older engine), if you had a leak between cylinders I would expect a larger variation in compression figures. At what stage are you assessing the plugs - idling in the driveway ? after a lengthy run ? Describe "wettish / foul" - are you talking oily wet or coolant wet ? Can you determine the flow volume with the radiator cap off ? Is the ignition timing correct ?
  2. 1934 Chrysler CA engine

    Sorry, if you go down that road prepare yourself for a lot of frustrating work, ask me how I know.
  3. Front end shake

    Keisers the man
  4. '29 Plymouth Auto Advance Retarding Ignition

    Don't you have a manual adv/ret control on your distributor ? this should be holding the timing at a fixed setting dependent on where you set the arm on the steering wheel.
  5. 1934 Chrysler CA engine

    Not many; because these were the last of the exposed water jacket engines, you need pre 33 / 34 Dodge/Plym/Des/Chry engines otherwise you will be messing around with clutch housing / starter mounting and then trans cross members and so on. Essentially your engine, because of the rear block water jacket configuration, has the starter motor mounted close in to the block, so if you try a later flat sided engine (full water jacket) you will have to use a matching clutch housing which then means different gear box and mountings. etc.
  6. 1930 Roadster

    Again - do you have spark at the points ??
  7. 1930 Roadster

    With points closed and ignition turned on, using a fine screwdriver, lever the point open and closed; do you have a spark at the points ??
  8. 1925 Rear Brake Drums - worn

    There was a guy somewhere around the Meadows area (Wayne Hocking was his name) who welded a steel band, from large diameter steel tube, onto the exterior of the drum and and then machined back to original dimensions. Don't know if he`s still at it but worth tracking him down perhaps. Another person is Graham Goode in Clare who has a restoration business, I think he was a customer of Hocking. Chris H
  9. fuel pressure for replacement of vacuum lift

    Not forgetting that vac tanks are reliant on vacuum, their big downfall on long or uphill gradients are the lack of vacuum with large throttle openings associated with driving uphill, some manufacturers provided larger capacity vac tanks to increase the storage capacity to diminish the problem. And yes, any updraft carb designed with vac tank feed will struggle with pressures above 1.5 psi.
  10. From what I can see from your photos, that engine doesn't look too bad, unless you gave it a good scrub up prior to the photos. With 70 psi on the other cylinders I wouldnt get too excited about the valves, they are obviously doing an ok job of sealing and yes you may have a tired engine, but I would first concentrate on the head and gasket. As to other things; the scratch in the bore - can you feel a groove or scratch by running a finger nail across it, as a general rule if your nail doesn't snag on it then its not too bad. Is it an oil burner ? are the plugs fouled ? is there any audible knocking from the engine whilst running ? if you get past these items I wouldn't go throwing a lot of money at this engine, they are pretty bullet proof, but head cracks are a common feature. Check the head for cracks, machine a few thou to get it flat and put a new gasket in, then see how it goes,not a lot of time or money to invest.
  11. "Iron bar" sounds to me very much like a hose collapsed on the inside.
  12. 1924 Dodge carb flooding?

    And if its of any further help - don't think this has been specified yet - stop the engine by turning off the vac tank tap and letting the carb run dry, switch the ignition off after the engine has stopped. As to flooding, prime suspect would be the needle/seat float mechanism, the engine will flood and continue to do so whilst the vac tank tap is open, there is nowhere else for the fuel to go, heed Jon`s warning !!
  13. Chrysler L6 265 Running Again!

    Replacing the water tube is not for the faint hearted, unless you have good reason to suspect its bad then leave it alone. If you suspect its bad let us know your reasoning before ripping into it, you could save yourself a lot of grief.
  14. Knight Sleeve Valve Engine?

    As others have said very smooth and silent running, complicated mechanically if you want to rebuild; but as Rusty says - big time smokers. The #1 draw back with this beautiful piece of machinery is keeping the oil inside; with conventional push rod / valved engines, when they smoke you can often get away with a quick repair to valve guides or seals, not so with sleeve valve engines, a complete strip down is required and I doubt now that there would be many machine shops left with the knowledge on how to go about repairing them. And going slightly off topic, the Brits used this technology in a lot of their radial engine aircraft; many of these aircraft had endurance ranges limited not by their fuel carrying capacity but instead by their oil carrying capacity.
  15. Starting a 1925

    Amen to that, once had a box full of them - at one stage I tried to cast venturi in bronze and have it machined, all got too hard in the end.
  16. Starting a 1925

    Good luck with that, I haven't seen a carb or parts in years. Having said that, they are very simple and the problems you are likely to be dealing with are worn throttle spindles and worn needle/seat float mechanisms, none are insurmountable.
  17. Starting a 1925

    For sure, the problem however remains with an updraft carb that anything you put into the intake usually "falls out" again before you can get the starter turning, unless you have very long arms.
  18. And hey Keiser, just going off topic I can date your photo because there I am in the blue shirt.
  19. Starting a 1925

    Yep, carb is original, springs are after market but obviously doing the job. Yes you are likely to see throttle ice in our neck of the woods at this time of year, but this usually forms once the engine has been running for a minute or two. How do I know ? because the first few blocks of driving from home were the most difficult when cold, particularly at traffic lights, trying to keep it running. Observing the ice ring forming around the casting adjacent the throttle plate, whilst in the shed, confirmed this for me. In short all of your symptoms are typical of my experiences and using variations of the above remedies, in time, will sort you out. What worked best for me was to remove the plugs, tip a few drops of fuel straight into the plug holes refit plugs, half choke, ignition full retard, enough hand throttle for a fast idle and hit the starter, usually it would fire immediately; a complicated procedure but achieved the desired results.
  20. 1947 Chrysler Water in Oil

    Cracked head ?
  21. Chrysler /6 carb replacement

    "Because I live overseas" Where overseas ?
  22. Adjusting valves solid lifters

    Given that its side valve access is always a problem, particularly with a hot engine. Take the side plate(s) off and bring #1 to TDC, both valves at #1 should be slack meaning they are seated closed, at this time #4 exhaust should be closing and #4 inlet opening i.e. rocking, now set the clearances on both #1 valves. Next turn the crank 180 degrees so that #3 is at TDC, #2 valves should be rocking as before, set #3 clearances. Repeat these steps with 180 degree crank turn for #4, #1 valves rocking and then #2, #3 valves rocking. Ideally setting them hot is best, but doing it cold is easier and if you have the right "feel" on the gap then it will be good enough. You will hear that setting them hot is critical but we are talking elementary cam profiles here with an under stressed low rev engine, don't get too excited with it.
  23. 1930 Chrysler 77 parking brake

    The 1/16 is really an arbitrary number, so I wouldn't be bothering with shims. What you may find is an accumulation of oil and other contaminants on the brake bits, cleaning with a good solvent may help matters, if however the lining is worn too far then relining is the only option, you will find this out if you run out of adjustment.
  24. Spark Timing Issue 1953 Chrysler Windsor

    " I touched and noticed the main ignition coil was quite warm. I assume a result of leaving the key in the run position. Is this normal for the coil to get warm like this? Or is this a sign the coil has an internal short?" Leaving the power on will mean that the battery current will be flowing through the coil continuously, a coil is exactly that, a coil of wire which will get hot just like the old bar radiators when power passes through; if the points happened to be closed then, they and the condenser, will also heat up; given that these components are designed to switch on and off, constant current flow is not good for them. Given all you have done so far, I would try another condenser and see what happens, jumped timing etc. would not be on my list of probable cause given that it ran well? prior to you touching the ignition system.
  25. BB1 help

    It seems you are also missing a linkage from choke to throttle for fast idle, as per this illustration.