hchris

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Everything posted by hchris

  1. As others have said very smooth and silent running, complicated mechanically if you want to rebuild; but as Rusty says - big time smokers. The #1 draw back with this beautiful piece of machinery is keeping the oil inside; with conventional push rod / valved engines, when they smoke you can often get away with a quick repair to valve guides or seals, not so with sleeve valve engines, a complete strip down is required and I doubt now that there would be many machine shops left with the knowledge on how to go about repairing them. And going slightly off topic, the Brits used this technology in a lot of their radial engine aircraft; many of these aircraft had endurance ranges limited not by their fuel carrying capacity but instead by their oil carrying capacity.
  2. Amen to that, once had a box full of them - at one stage I tried to cast venturi in bronze and have it machined, all got too hard in the end.
  3. Good luck with that, I haven't seen a carb or parts in years. Having said that, they are very simple and the problems you are likely to be dealing with are worn throttle spindles and worn needle/seat float mechanisms, none are insurmountable.
  4. For sure, the problem however remains with an updraft carb that anything you put into the intake usually "falls out" again before you can get the starter turning, unless you have very long arms.
  5. And hey Keiser, just going off topic I can date your photo because there I am in the blue shirt.
  6. Yep, carb is original, springs are after market but obviously doing the job. Yes you are likely to see throttle ice in our neck of the woods at this time of year, but this usually forms once the engine has been running for a minute or two. How do I know ? because the first few blocks of driving from home were the most difficult when cold, particularly at traffic lights, trying to keep it running. Observing the ice ring forming around the casting adjacent the throttle plate, whilst in the shed, confirmed this for me. In short all of your symptoms are typical of my experiences and using variations of the above remedies, in time, will sort you out. What worked best for me was to remove the plugs, tip a few drops of fuel straight into the plug holes refit plugs, half choke, ignition full retard, enough hand throttle for a fast idle and hit the starter, usually it would fire immediately; a complicated procedure but achieved the desired results.
  7. Cracked head ?
  8. "Because I live overseas" Where overseas ?
  9. Given that its side valve access is always a problem, particularly with a hot engine. Take the side plate(s) off and bring #1 to TDC, both valves at #1 should be slack meaning they are seated closed, at this time #4 exhaust should be closing and #4 inlet opening i.e. rocking, now set the clearances on both #1 valves. Next turn the crank 180 degrees so that #3 is at TDC, #2 valves should be rocking as before, set #3 clearances. Repeat these steps with 180 degree crank turn for #4, #1 valves rocking and then #2, #3 valves rocking. Ideally setting them hot is best, but doing it cold is easier and if you have the right "feel" on the gap then it will be good enough. You will hear that setting them hot is critical but we are talking elementary cam profiles here with an under stressed low rev engine, don't get too excited with it.
  10. The 1/16 is really an arbitrary number, so I wouldn't be bothering with shims. What you may find is an accumulation of oil and other contaminants on the brake bits, cleaning with a good solvent may help matters, if however the lining is worn too far then relining is the only option, you will find this out if you run out of adjustment.
  11. " I touched and noticed the main ignition coil was quite warm. I assume a result of leaving the key in the run position. Is this normal for the coil to get warm like this? Or is this a sign the coil has an internal short?" Leaving the power on will mean that the battery current will be flowing through the coil continuously, a coil is exactly that, a coil of wire which will get hot just like the old bar radiators when power passes through; if the points happened to be closed then, they and the condenser, will also heat up; given that these components are designed to switch on and off, constant current flow is not good for them. Given all you have done so far, I would try another condenser and see what happens, jumped timing etc. would not be on my list of probable cause given that it ran well? prior to you touching the ignition system.
  12. It seems you are also missing a linkage from choke to throttle for fast idle, as per this illustration.
  13. First thing I would do is disconnect the upper arm at the accelerator pump, set the idle speed, then come back to setting up the accel pump arm.
  14. "the plugs are black" - not sure what the cause is, but certainly too rich.
  15. These bushes are metal to metal, and fit either end of the spring hanger. One piece threads into the eye of the spring another threads over it, the same goes for the hanger/chassis end, grease nipples are in the bush ends; when assembled the two bush pieces turn inside each other as the hangers pivot back and forth. They are common on all Mopar vehicles from the 30`s to 60`s, however there are various sizes depending on the specific vehicles. Removing and installing these bushes is quite challenging, particularly getting the inner and outer pieces in the correct position on the hanger, and in the spring eye, if you have never done this job before you would be best advised to seek help. If you are downunder you might try Jim Robinson in Maryborough Vic. 03 54614619 for supplies
  16. Not a fuse as such, but a bimetallic switch built into the headlight switch. If there is a short circuit in the headlight wiring, the switch heats up and opens contacts to prevent burnt wiring. Don't forget the floor mounted dipper switch is in the circuit as well, have you tried turning on headlights and activating the dipper switch to see what happens ?
  17. Yes good call indeed, however I think those valves have been going a lot longer than the 1500 miles you are attributing to your new carb and lean mixture. I strongly suspect your diagnosis of poor running before the carb change, would certainly have been due to these burnt/worn valves.
  18. Not sure which carb you are talking about; if it idles ok and runs smooth enough at low revs then its probably not an idle mixture problem. From what I understand you are bogging down at higher revs ? going into second ? if so this would indicate a main metering jet problem. So, I suggest you have a fiddle with the lower adjustment and see if this improves things, if not then you may have needle and seat problems or perhaps a float setting issue; it would help if there was a little more background info, such as when this first started, you say the carb was rebuilt - has this fault occurred immediately after it was rebuilt? As to the distributor being t fault, certainly could be the cause of not wanting to accelerate, but it wont give you black sooty plugs, that's a carb issue - perhaps you have more than one problem?? I would start with the carb first off.
  19. Dark plugs would indicate an over rich mixture, hence carb issues, which could be faulty choke, stuck float, etc.
  20. If you haven't got it at the guage outlet then it wont be anywhere else, take the pump off (not a big job) and prime it before refitting. Don't forget to get the timing right before removal
  21. Yes, the design of the Dodge pumps really dictate that they should be primed before installation, as suggested you might try back priming through the guage fitting, and I really wouldn't be starting it until I saw some pressure.
  22. You know if you are 15 years of age, going to keep this car for the rest of your life and use it as a daily driver on the freeway, then you could justifiably be concerned over oils. The fact is that today almost any oil is way improved over what was available back in the 20`s, you will have a better chance of finding who lives on Mars than a definitive answer on "which is the best oil". Choose a quality brand 20w40 (assuming you`re not in an extreme climate environment), change it regularly and worry about the important things in life.
  23. As with all things from T J Richards of this period, you will find that there are many subtle differences between US and Aus. production; your vehicle is not uncommon down here, do a search on some of the Aus. related websites. Sadly there are very few records of TJ`s production numbers, but if you do a search on Richards, there are a number of good books on their auto manufacturing history with associated photos.
  24. Nope, the instrument voltage stabiliser would be about the size of your thumb (or smaller) and I would guess it would be attached to the rear of the instrument panel. If you can see the temp and/or fuel guage connectors, trace the wires back from them, it will be close by. I would try and remove, or at least, ease back the instrument panel to have a look; you will probably need to unscrew the speedo cable connector off of the speedo to allow you to wriggle the instrument panel forward far enough to see behind it, oh, and disconnect the battery beforehand just in case their are some wires that come adrift.
  25. Well it stands to reason that if the regulator is not being powered then none of the gauges will work. My first port of call would be to check if the regulator has power to it.