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Everything posted by hchris

  1. If you haven't got it at the guage outlet then it wont be anywhere else, take the pump off (not a big job) and prime it before refitting. Don't forget to get the timing right before removal
  2. Yes, the design of the Dodge pumps really dictate that they should be primed before installation, as suggested you might try back priming through the guage fitting, and I really wouldn't be starting it until I saw some pressure.
  3. You know if you are 15 years of age, going to keep this car for the rest of your life and use it as a daily driver on the freeway, then you could justifiably be concerned over oils. The fact is that today almost any oil is way improved over what was available back in the 20`s, you will have a better chance of finding who lives on Mars than a definitive answer on "which is the best oil". Choose a quality brand 20w40 (assuming you`re not in an extreme climate environment), change it regularly and worry about the important things in life.
  4. As with all things from T J Richards of this period, you will find that there are many subtle differences between US and Aus. production; your vehicle is not uncommon down here, do a search on some of the Aus. related websites. Sadly there are very few records of TJ`s production numbers, but if you do a search on Richards, there are a number of good books on their auto manufacturing history with associated photos.
  5. Nope, the instrument voltage stabiliser would be about the size of your thumb (or smaller) and I would guess it would be attached to the rear of the instrument panel. If you can see the temp and/or fuel guage connectors, trace the wires back from them, it will be close by. I would try and remove, or at least, ease back the instrument panel to have a look; you will probably need to unscrew the speedo cable connector off of the speedo to allow you to wriggle the instrument panel forward far enough to see behind it, oh, and disconnect the battery beforehand just in case their are some wires that come adrift.
  6. Well it stands to reason that if the regulator is not being powered then none of the gauges will work. My first port of call would be to check if the regulator has power to it.
  7. Take the lead off the tank sender unit and touch briefly to good ground with power on, careful of sparks. The guage should go full deflection towards full; if so guage is good and problem is the sender or sender poorly earthed, if not most probably guage is bad.
  8. 34 DR Dodge will do, but the side louvres are different, so depends which bits you are wanting.
  9. If you know anyone in the Dodge Bros Club, ask for a look at their latest newsletter, there is an absolute cracker article on how to go about it.
  10. Yes, the method you describe in the first post will work. As already stated, turning the crank back will allow the timing chain to slacken a little, wont damage anything but next time you turn it forward the slack will have to be taken up again, and, during this small amount of crank travel, the cam will remain stationary. I`m with Rusty, why second guess what the engineers designed, set the clearances as per specs.
  11. I did notice that after running for some time, gas was coming out of the pipe leading to the engine flooding it. I`m confused by this, are you referring to the pipe between the vac tank to carb ? and this occurs with the engine running ?
  12. FLuid Drive troubleshoot.htm Have a look through these, you might find some answers.
  13. Sorry I don't see one single piece on that car that looks remotely like a Plymouth. Plymouth U motors did not have a water pump but relied on a thermo siphon cooling system.
  14. If you read the original problem, the carb is flooding whilst the engine is not running, that would eliminate the vac tank.
  15. You will note that the "valve seat" screws into the bottom of the bowl, unscrew this and put a thin washer or gasket under the seat and screw it back in again; by doing this you have raised the point at which the needle comes into contact with the seat, effectively lowering the fuel level in the bowl. The other option as suggested is to take out the pivot pins for the balance levers and reinsert the levers up side down; you will probably see wear marks on the small ends of the balance levers, this has the effect of lost leverage on the float which consequently allows the float to rise too far and cause flooding, reversing the position of these levers may solve the problem.
  16. Solid core wire is for housing etc. simply not flexible enough for auto wiring, and yes it will work harden and break over time with vibration.
  17. So glad you chimed in Jon, I now remember doing the solder thing many moons ago on my Maxwell; washers under the seat would be the way to go.
  18. First of all you need to get the float setting right as its position obviously affects mixture. Not sure on the "how to" adjust the arms, looking at the schematic I imagine there is a way to adjust the levers at the top of the bowl cover, shouldn't be too hard to find the details with a search on the net. Have a look at this, it might help you along. http://old-carburetors.com/1927-Dykes/1927-Dykes-030.htm
  19. First of all you need to get the float setting right as its position obviously affects mixture. Not sure on the "how to" adjust the arms, looking at the schematic I imagine there is a way to adjust the levers at the top of the bowl cover, shouldn't be too hard to find the details with a search on the net.
  20. If I`m not mistaken, we are confusing one adjustment with another, the needle and rack adjustment is all about setting correct mixture whilst running. My take on the problem presented, is that fuel is running out of the carb bowl whilst the engine is stationary, if this is the case then the fault lies within the needle and seat in the float bowl, either the needle and seat are worn or the float setting is too high, causing the fuel to continue siphoning from the vac tank with the engine stopped. As I recall, the fix for this is to adjust the float arms in the carb bowl. ps: it could also be a sinking float, if the float has a hole in it, fuel will fill the float and sink to the bottom of the bowl, and then there is no way that the needle can be held closed to stop fuel running into the bowl. To test the float, remove from the carb and drop it into a container of hot water, if there is a hole, the heat will open it up and the float will fill and sink.
  21. Or plug / blank off the vac feed line from the manifold. Amend that was thinking of the vacuumatic clutch.
  22. Thoroughly recommend these, have used them myself and found the clarity and brilliance fabulous; to the extent I often have people who have driven behind me ask where I got the bulbs; and yes available in both polarities.
  23. Lean mixture it sounds like; as well as the other answers, there might be an air leak through the carb base gasket or inlet manifold gasket; perhaps re tension all the mount bolts / nuts ?
  24. Bingo, just what the vac guage behaviour was displaying.
  25. Alright, now we might be on to something. The thing of significance is the #1 low compression, the vac guage is never going to be steady if you have a large variation in any cylinder compressions, this would have been a tell tale pointer from the get go had you mentioned it in the beginning. To develop full power and smooth running you need to have minimal variation between all cylinder compression readings. So with that in mind how low is low, do you know what the compression pressure is on #1 cylinder ? Just off the cuff, an incorrectly set valve clearance (or leaking valve due to poor seating) will give you wild vacuum fluctuations, and low compression. So a question to be answered, were the valve clearances adjusted after the timing chain / gear episode ? The numbers on the guage face, I was trying to establish what range the needle of the guage was moving to / from in vacuum reading not psi. So would I be right in assuming the guage is bouncing from one end of the scale to the other at steady idle rpm ? OK don't answer this I re read your earlier post.