JV Puleo

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About JV Puleo

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Smithfield, Rhode Island
  • Interests:
    Brass era... teens & 20s


  • Biography
    A lifelong Brass Car enthusiast

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  1. I had the same problem finding valves and guides to fit my 1910 Mitchell. The valves and guides are in a box in my shop... I'll check and amend this post in a few hours to give you the contact info. If I remember correctly, they once had a size chart on their web site. It wasn't there the last time I looked but you can email them with the sizes you need and they will get right back to you. These folks also sell "blank" valves... jp
  2. The strangest fix I ever made was to a early 70s Volvo that had an early (I think one or two years only) fuel injection system that used a separate pair of points in the distributor, located under the ignition points. I had the distributor out for some reason that now escapes me but when I put if back, the car would only run on two cylinders. I tested about everything I could, including the injectors – all of which worked perfectly. Somehow, one of the sets of injector points was grounding out... in the end, I realized I had left the lock washer out under one of the screws that attached cap retaining spring clips. The two or three threads further in that the screw went was just enough to touch one of the springs on the injector points. To this day, I wonder how I ever noticed that.
  3. Like 1912Staver, I'm looking for brass era stuff. I check the "used" box because nothing I'm looking for is reproduced, except for Model Ts, and none of that will suit my purposes. That said, I may devote 10 minutes a day to a search. I have found things but I'm no ebay cheerleader. I think I'd rather put my extra bits in the rubbish than go through the effort to sell on ebay again — I have given things away rather than try to deal with selling. With no local swap meets and very little brass era material advertised anywhere, ebay is about the only choice available. Fortunately, there isn't much I need... a pair of bucket seats (which I'll probably end up making myself) and a gas pedal - which I will probably also make. I'm also weary of the same things coming up time and again, nearly always with idiotic "buy it now" prices. Though I acknowledge it to be a bit childish of me, I am offended by grossly unrealistic asking prices...as if the seller is saying "you idiots will pay anything for my wonderful 'rare' item." Silly yes, but there are times when I'd like to send them an electronic obscene gesture. I have had a bit of luck looking for things outside ebay motors... I found this worked particularly well with early gages and got a very nice early dash mounted amp gage and a fuel pressure gage that way...
  4. Actually, so would I. I'm not overly protective of cars, if I think someone understands how they work. They are, after all, machines. They can take some getting accustomed to, but it isn't rocket science. However, I suspect we are in the minority. jvp
  5. The previous Great Gatsby, with Robert Redford, was nearly as bad. The two main cars were a 28 or 29 Phantom I RR and, correctly enough, a 21 Silver Ghost. Most of the "back up cars" seen in the drive of the mansion and in other scenes were too new... including my 26 Cadillac. As far as I know there was only one 30s car and that one appeared only in the distance, if at all. I wasn't too disappointed. It's really a bit much to expect any movie company to come up with multiple pre-1922 luxury cars, especially when we know the owners aren't going to let anyone drive them beside themselves and almost certainly all have lives of their own so aren't ready to satisfy some directors plans for too long. A friend of mine was involved in finding cars for an ongoing TV drama set in the early 60s and the producers were resigned to just buying the cars associated with the main characters but - that hardly works when you need the cars that would be required for the Great Gatsby.
  6. What's more... no brass cars are being sold to people who have a nostalgic attachment to them from their youth for simple reason that there probably isn't anyone left that remembers them in everyday use. Thirty years ago I expected that prices might fall when the "brass car generation" passed on. Boy was I wrong... for the most part, the prices have only gone up and "entry level" is nearly always a 5 figure number, even for dismantled long abandoned project cars (which is what I own and the only brass car I could afford).
  7. My all-time favorite Hemmings ad was for a '26 Cadillac dual cowl phaeton described as "the only one known." There were two more for sale in the same issue.
  8. At one time I would read the thick "brown paper cover" Hemmings from cover to cover... I gave up on it when the "pre 1914" section got down to a single column and 90% of it was 50s and 60s stuff. I just didn't have the patience to wade through it any longer.
  9. I absolutely agree. I got rid of mine 20 years ago and haven't missed it for one minute.
  10. Hmmm... I have an aluminum foundry next door. I need seats as well. Can you send me a photo? jp
  11. I'd be reasonably certain that '16 was chosen because it is, or was post-HCCA rules. I suspect it was only included in the HCCA because FORD was still making brass radiator cars. Virtually no one else was and I don't generally think of 15 or 16 as "brass-era." As for '36... that may be the watershed between the end of true Pre-war designs and those that will bridge the war years and emerge essentially unchanged in 1946.
  12. Actually, I think the flag part of the law was repealed somewhat earlier but not the act itself, which limited speed to something like 3 miles per hour. The flag was seen as symbolic of the law, which is why Harry Lawson tore one up at the beginning of the first run from London to Brighton.
  13. I have no idea... I only just discovered that source and intended to order a set for my side lights. But, I'm in the UK at the moment and left the dimensions on a slip of paper in my shop so it will have to wait until I get home. I also thought they might be thinner but the convex, clear Gray & Davis lenses aren't very thick to begin with – nothing like the later, flat lenses we see on drum headlights. In any case, I doubt thickness will matter much if one catches a flying rock. Progress on the Mitchell is slow... but it's always been slow. My goal is regular progress more than speed. When I get home I've several more engine parts to make.... timing gears, exhaust and intake manifolds etc as well as the pistons and rods to finish but when that is done I may be close to reassembling the engine. jp
  14. For the convex glass lenses for G&D lights... I found a website that sells clear, round glass convex lenses intended for clock faces. I have it bookmarked at home but I'm out of the country so I'm unable to add it here. I did find it by googling "convex galss." jp found it... http://www.ronellclock.com/Convex-Glass_c62.htm
  15. Sprayed lacquer finishes weren't available until the mid-20s. Until then, everything was coach painted so in the terms of the original question, a brass car or a buggy, none of the finishes mentioned are authentic. Coach paint is still available although I've not seen it in the US. It's readily available in the UK where it is still used in automobile restoration but more often on things like traction engines. But, the Europeans don't have a tradition of ferocious cosmetic competition. Some might say their standards aren't as high. I tend to think they are much more realistic - usually not trying to make things wildly better than they were originally, or at least not so cosmetically. The real problem is that applying coach paint is a skill that is largely unknown in the US. It is not, I believe, particularly difficult but you will have to do it yourself as I doubt any shop would likely want to try something completely unknown or understood. If you do a search on "coach paint" or "coach painting" you will find several UK suppliers. I will probably try doing it myself although painting my 1910 car is a very long way off.