JV Puleo

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About JV Puleo

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 11/01/1951

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  • Location:
    Smithfield, Rhode Island
  • Interests:
    Brass era... teens & 20s


  • Biography
    A lifelong Brass Car enthusiast

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  1. American Rolls Royce (Ghost, PI & PII)

    I wasn't aware of that. I am certain that, at least on my car, it was the actual tank that was plated, but it was one of the very first cars with a plated radiator. Somewhere I've seen a mention of the chassis number the plating started with but it has been so long since I was involved with RRs that I've quite forgotten where. I still have all my books and manuals but would have to dig them out and go through them. It may be in the "PI Service Sheets" published by the RROC back in the 1970s.
  2. American Rolls Royce (Ghost, PI & PII)

    They were, at least until their secret process stainless called "Stay Bright" came into use. I think that was on the PII. No American-built RRs had Stay Bright radiator shells. My radiator was plated over the german silver which I suspect is why it adhered poorly. I'd have been suspicious of it were it not that I knew the car had been purchased by a Princeton undergraduate around 1948 (for something like $100). He took it apart around 1955 in the family barn and it was delivered directly from that barn to me, the engine apart and complete with a dead rat in the sump.
  3. Go ahead and send them... I'm game. I'll have to figure out how to do the tapered hole with key way for the mag though... I've an idea for that too. Edit... I just remembered, I think I have an incomplete impulse starter. I could make it out of one of those. Actually, since it doesn't have a starter, I'd bet that splined drum was used with one in the first place.
  4. American Rolls Royce (Ghost, PI & PII)

    I've no idea how many were sold originally, but the number must have been very small. I'd think they might have been seen as too flashy for the average RR customer and I expect they were frightfully expensive, even then - so much so that I doubt they were ever added to the rebodied cars. Of course, the originals had stainless rims and hubs while "faking them" would call for plating the rims and hubs. I do not know if plated wheels were offered, but I think not. I was reacting to the color, which is softer than chrome and much closer to nickel in its appearance though not the same as that either. Of course. making that guess from a photo is a risk but that's why I asked if they could be... I have seen chrome plated wheels on PIs... they look out of place to me, especially when combined with the infamous WW tires. Also, RR didn't introuduce chrome plating until 1929. My PI was one of the first. They had chrome plated the radiator and it did not stick well. Had I kept the car, I'd have polished it all off (easy enough as most of it was falling off in any case).
  5. American Rolls Royce (Ghost, PI & PII)

    That's only the second time I've seen them...
  6. American Rolls Royce (Ghost, PI & PII)

    I wonder if those are the fantastically rare, optional stainless steel wire wheels? Years ago my friend EA Mowbray would go out early Sunday morning to get the NY Times and read the "cars for sale" ads. One morning he saw an ad for an unrestored PI "sedan" so we made a mad dash to southern Connecticut, hoping to get there before anyone else reacted to the ad. It was a PI Avon (one of the best looking sedans) in fairly rough condition although nowhere near as rough as it looked. There were no spare wheels, but on the ground it had the Buffalo stainless steel wheels. Mr. M bought the car and about a week later got a phone call from another RR collector who offered him a restored set of 6 Buffalo wheels and slightly more money than he had paid for the whole car!
  7. Brake Return Spring Help for '29 Graham

    Try LEE Spring. You can request their catalog, which I find easier to use than their web site. The problem is, while they list sizes and spring rates, you need to know what you need. Do you have an original to look at? Failing that, I'd find a similar spring and measure the spring rate though I'm not sure what the method would be for an expansion spring. You could also get the dimensions, the diameter of the wire, inside and outside dimensions of the coil. This should get you very close to the original in strength. The purpose of that spring is to pull the shoes in when tension is released... you could try in and see if it works. If it accomplishes the job, it's strong enough. It's a very simple system. I do think that one is too light.
  8. I just thought of an even easier way... A collar that is a slip fit over the splined drum... very close but not "tight" Measure the width of the splines and get some "dog point" set screws that will fit into the spline. Put two of those, in line, on one side of the collar. On the opposite side put a larger "soft point" set screw. They are made with Nylon, Brass and Silver tips. I generally prefer Brass when it's contacting a smooth surface and Nylon when the set screw goes up against threads. This should be relatively easy to make and saves making a special key to match the width of the spline.
  9. Aluminum Connecting Rods

    I looked this up in my 1939 copy where it adds that "the commercial designation is 25S." I believe the "T" refers to heat treatment, which makes sense. So this is further confirmation of what was being used for con rods.
  10. Mike... I just had an idea on this. How about a sleeve with a key in it the width of one of the grooves in the spline and 2 soft point set screws at 180 degrees. The key would catch one of the grooves and be entirely adjustable while the set screws would keep it tight without marring the drum. Edit... I just realized someone already proposed this. I should read more carefully. jp
  11. Aluminum Connecting Rods

    That's about what I thought. Those engines ran at twice the speed of mine so I don't think the splash rod lubrication is an issue.
  12. Connecting rod cap bolts.

    Yes... in the same way nuts & bolts are interchangeable. Of course, the SAE Specs generally applied to materials and fasteners as well as a few other parts, like clevis pin ends & door hinges. These were "SAE Recommended." To what extent everyone adopted them was optional but I suspect the goal was to make it easier for suppliers of peripheral parts – the sort of things that all auto makers bought rather than made. I suspect that quite a few small parts are interchangeable.
  13. Aluminum Connecting Rods

    Rusty, Do you have any idea what RPMs the Hudson (or Chevy) was turning at 50? The car these rods are for would be doing 63MPH at 2,000 RPM. Short of outright racing, that's pretty fast for a brass car... faster than I'd be inclined to. I'm guessing that a fast cruising speed would be in the area of 1,500 to 1,800 RPM. Connecting rod journal size was severely limited by the oil of the period not being able to hand the surface speed of a larger diameter, which give us the "bent hairpin" cranks. I suspect that by the 50s the oil had improved, the cranks journals could be bigger and the speeds could be higher. I still wonder about using inserts on splash lubricated rods but this seems to have been done successfully quite a bit now and is probably worth trying. This car should have pressure to the mains and splash for the rods if things come out as I plan.
  14. Questions about an old car

    I think it might be worthwhile to point out to Mr. Duer that you are NOT talking about the "AACA Museum." This is a case where a non-specialist might be very confused. And, my remarks regarding museums do not apply to the AACA Library & Research Center.
  15. Questions about an old car

    Probably the best way to make certain that the car is neglected is to donate it to a museum. Most museum cars are a flashy (but not very good) paint job on a non-running car that will require a great deal of work. Many museums have a policy of NEVER running cars but treating them as static displays. When you consider that the current trend in American museums is to hire "museum professionals", usually with no specific knowledge of the museum's collection, this isn't surprising. The car would be far better cared for in the possession of a collector who is prepared to expend some of his disposable income to acquire it. You might sell it for less than it's perceived market value if you like the buyer, It's really up to you but a museum is nearly always a poor choice. Search this forum for threads that mention "museum restoration" if you don't believe me.