JV Puleo

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About JV Puleo

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Smithfield, Rhode Island
  • Interests:
    Brass era... teens & 20s


  • Biography
    A lifelong Brass Car enthusiast

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  1. Wanted Gages for 1919 Lexington

    It is extremely unlikely that the gages are unique to that car so a photograph of what you want is really essential. The chances are that the same gage fit a number of different applications - not even all of them in automobiles.
  2. Looking for career advice

    I've had very similar experiences... At one point in my life I owned a typesetting company. We got a certain amount of "walk in" business typesetting resumes so I've rad a lot of them aside from those addressed to me. One of my favorites was the guy who had never held a job for more than about 10 months and invariable "left for more money"... he had about 5 or 6 or those in succession. He did get another job, but the music stopped there. Last I heard, he's been out of work for a long time.
  3. A brass car - this Pierce Arrow?

    A good friend of mine had a 1922 RR Silver Ghost with a Frederick Wood body. It was extremely well made... if I look at home I may even be able to find the chassis number. jp
  4. painting car parts with a brush

    The English still do "coach painting" and there are several companies that sell the appropriate paint. As far as I know, it isn't available in the US. I am a long way from painting my Mitchell, but I am seriously considering this as an option as I've no really good place to spray it and it'll be a cold day in h--l that I pay thousands for a paint job.
  5. 1913 REO

    Another thought... I don't think you can get access to the double sump at the back. I'd think about rigging up some way to flush it out with kerosene, diesel oil or even mineral spirits. (For those who have never seen one of these engines, there is no oil pan. It is what was called a "barrel casting." This made a very strong crankcase but the only access to the mains and rod bearings is through the ports on the side.) Also, do you have a water pump with a bronze or brass cover mounted to aluminum? Again, that is what the earlier cars had and the aluminum part was very badly corroded. Today, I'd bead blast it and fill the surface with aluminum Devcon ... in those days I just put an iron one on from a later car. If and when you get to the water pump, I'd love to see some pictures of it dismantled. I will be making a water pump for my car and can't remember exactly what the REO pump looked like inside... but it might be a help.
  6. 1913 REO

    That's great work. I am really glad that it is in the hands of someone who is qualified to address the problems. One of the problems I see with a lot of brass cars is that people buy them thinking they will be like fixing a 50s or 60s car... they aren't and all too often the car gets dismantled and never goes back together. Does your car have a one-piece camshaft or the type with the lobes keyed and pinned to the shaft? That is what my 10 REO had and the "professional" I took it to spot welded the cams to the shaft making it impossible to remove. At that point, I decided to teach myself to do ALL the mechanical work. You might want to check the clearance between the plunger of the oil pump and the sleeve it runs it. The early cars had a steel plunger in a bronze housing... the later cars had a steel housing. My brass housing was quite worn from running dirty oil so I replaced it with a later steel one. If I'd known then what I know now, I'd just have made a new bronze housing but that was 40 years ago. You are absolutely right on the rollers for the rocker arms... they were a red phenolic on my car, presumably to cut down on valve noise. They also wore out fairly quickly, especially if they got stuck and didn't rotate properly. I'm not sure how long the Delrin will last but certainly long enough to get it running well. I wouldn't bother hooking up the connection between the exhaust pipe and the intake heater. That was to compensate for the terrible gas being sold in 1910. The cheapest gas available today will be far better. Preheating the intake is pointless and will actually rob you of some horsepower. I may have some leftover bits and pieces... if I can find them you are welcome to them. jp
  7. It's difficult... not the least because many car makers bought the bodies from companies that serviced the industry. I suspect that was the rule rather than the exception. The trade magazines of the time have numerous ads for body makers that are aimed at the trade rather than the "coach built" market. There may have been small changes in trim and other details but I wonder at even that. Before WWI, I think there were very few car makers that were permanently wedded to minor details. For instance, this photo looks remarkably like the front half of a 1910 REO I owned. I can't tell from the photo if the part on the ground is curved or not...if straight, it could be a front half, if curved, it is probably the back of the car. Because there is no provision for a curved chassis rail, it could be the back half of my current Mitchell – which has straight frame rails.
  8. Long haul trucking is a relatively modern practice. Probably right up to WWII most large items were moved by rail and delivered locally by trucks.
  9. Was this on the Hupmobile you purchased recently? I only ask because just about the time you posted photos of that car there was another, either identical or very similar for sale on ebay. I only noticed because I'd seen the one on ebay and thought "I've never seen one like that before". Then you posted your pictures and there was a 2nd one.
  10. Thanks... I am in no rush. The body-building part is years off. jp
  11. Since I have to build the body, the exact width isn't important. That Loco sounds really exciting... somehow I can't imagine having a problem like yours, at least not with cars. I once saw a huge, unrestored Peerless limo at Tunick Bros in New Jersey...it was extremely impressive. I'm not in a rush by the way... I will find something sooner or later or make it if I have to. jp
  12. Well... I'm looking for a pair of bucket seats or a single, divided seat that looks like two seats. They can be attached, but I don't want it to look like a bench seat from the back. If anything turns up, I'm interested. Where are you?
  13. Speedster Builds.............

    But... was this for a 6 volt system with a starter? Prior to WWI, electrical systems came in a variety of voltages. I've seen reference to 6, 12, 14 and 18 volts. Until the starter came along, it wasn't something that was standardized. I don't think 6 volt became the American "standard" until the 20s and it wasn't universally adopted even then. American SG RRs were 12 volt up to almost the end of production and were only changed to 6 because customers were complaining that it wasn't easy to find a 12V battery outside a major city. I think this is why your plate is actually marked "6 volt"... Had this been the voltage that nearly everyone used, it might not be marked at all. If it was a 6v system strictly for lighting and ignition, the leads don't have to be all that heavy.
  14. Move over Tesla this was around 100 years ago

    Amazon is about the worst place to look for an old book. Try bookfinder.com... I just did a search on author "Maxim" and the title, Horsless Carriage Days. Prices started under $20 and the 1937 first edition was exactly $20. It is always preferable, and often cheaper to buy books like this that are new NOT "print on demand" products as the technology of copying books is still a long way from being good. Maxim died in 1935 or 36. His book on the early days of the motorcar was published posthumously.
  15. Speedster Builds.............

    Terry is a lot better at making the tags... I've got to work on my technique. Here's one I made. The Pendleton Mfg. Co. was my great grandfather... this is really a joke tag... made to confound my relatives who are fascinated by genealogy.