c49er

Drive it easy...not a robust 4 speed trans. And a odd and complicated design. A friend has a CD Deluxe ....had issues but did find a good replacement trans. Yes...The input shaft uses no pilot bearing.

The most accurate way to figure displacement is to pull the #6 cylinder 7/16" timing hex plug on the head and measure piston stroke using a stiff steel wire rod. Hopefully the engine is free. The engine number top left front pad is good too but I have seen quite a few blank never been rebuilt. The 306 engine started in 1950.

The Moly Block 30" engines are not that common ..even back in the day. A very heavy duty well built 7 main bearing engine. Built by Chrysler Corp. 281 ci. all the way up to the end of the line 413ci. Used in trucks and industrial equipment. Displacements of 281,306,331,377 and 413 were all produced. Even a 331 diesel in 39. The 413 being the lowest production engine...the most sought after. Thes engines weighed roughly 1100lbs. with accessories and air pump if optioned that way. I have several of these trucks and engines I've collected over the last 40 years all running but the later B series dual carb/exhaust engines. All of these 30" engines were single carb up to mid 1950. Then most were all twin carb and exhaust. Yes there are some people who are out looking for these engines...a small select group at that...most seem to be looking for the 413. The most difficult one to find.

A very hard item to find new, and If found ost likely extremely expensive. Later updated ones (still genuine 1946-48 MoPar) are all cast aluminum but look nearly the same. The one shown is a carry over from 1941-42 cars.

That is the right thing to do...positively find the starting place of the leak...maybe using oil leak dye..that will pin point the leaks origin.

Some crankshafts also have a machined oil slinger thread or groove to help pull weeping oil towards the crankcase side drain back hole in the main cap. It has to be open.

Upper line Chryslers came with a factory installed turn signal system... Bottom line Royals ...probably a special ordered option.

Chrysler cars came with factory installed turn signals in 1941 in the upper line models but not sure about the bottom line Royal cars. Same style switch used up thru 1948...even on optioned out Plymouth , Dodge and DeSoto cars.

A couple old cars for Antique Auto Ranch inventory. Silly old geezers racing.👎

Use hand signals...though you might get shot at.

I did read up on the 322 Buick rear rope seal in Motor's book. Thry only state a way to replace only the cap rope and to cut it flush. I stated .010-.015...probably too much stick out on a firmly properly packed rope. Flush to .005"...tough to get .005" but meaning to just make sure rope ends push tight together. The upper rope can only be serviced by removing the crank of course. Oil the rope too. Side cap gaskets supposedly were cork. The only Buick rear seal I did years ago was a 1969 350 with the rubber and steel pin side gaskets. Good luck!

Rope type? I would only use the old stock type rope seals...not the new ropes being offered. Crank out...use a packing die the same size as the crankshaft seal portion diameter of the crank. Spend plenty of time carefully working packing down the rope into the block and the cap. The ropes need to be worked in so as to rub slightly 100% 360 degree's around the crank seal surface. Yet not be so tight as to cause excessive drag on the crankshaft with no rods connected. I fab up, use what ever tooling I need to be sure the ropes properly fit the seal retainers to crank or the block groove to crank. If possible I will use a .002" feeler gauge and check to see if it slides between the rope seal and shaft...better not! Many style rope ends usually need to stick up .010"- maybe .015" max and not be frayed.... they must be perfectly cut straight. When the cap is is installed the ends will be compressed and not caught between the mating surfaces. Main cap side seals have to be carefully packed tight too. A lot of Buicks used a stiff wire forced into the side seals to expand them tight to prevent leakage. Image is of a MoPar style rear main seal...external retainer type rope seal being formed..then test fitted to the block and crank...to three to four test fits for final assembly. Rope rear main seal jobs are slow as she goes..take all the time and effort needed to prevent leakage.

Big job...well done.

Take good notes and pictures when taking a car apart...later to be put back together.

Inner cable is pulled out from the top.

Simply use a bearing splitter and a large two jaw puller. Be sure to leave the nut on flush to the top of the threads on the tube. I then push against a 7/16" or 1/2" bolt and washer that fits down into the steering tube. This makes sure the steering tube threads don't get damaged/crushed as those wheels are usually really tight to pull off.

Thanks.....I am addicted now too!

Hope they can keep it balanced.

Pressure relief valve sticking wide open hot.... Oil pu too high..or oil level low inaccurate Worn bearings...

That's Arnold the pig....Green Acres Riviera... is the place for you!😂

The p15/d24 pilothouse forum guys will know....

The carpet heel pad wouldn't be so trashed as is the front of the interior unless a pig drove it to 19,000 miles. The driver door hinges should have zero up down movement....engine should last longer than 19,000 too. Why would anyone let a super low milege car go to such waste?

Wow....19,000 original miles...and it needs the factory fan shroud? Hmmm.. Good to fix it up and enjoy for sure.

Glad to hear you sealed the big leaks!