West Peterson Posted March 8, 2006 Share Posted March 8, 2006 Had some friends over last night to help work on my car.This is what it looked like at 7:00pm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
West Peterson Posted March 8, 2006 Author Share Posted March 8, 2006 ...and at 8:15pm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted March 8, 2006 Share Posted March 8, 2006 Wow you guys are good. Looks great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K8096 Posted March 8, 2006 Share Posted March 8, 2006 That's a 180 right? Do you have overdrive? Division window? Since you have it that far apart, you should check the brass water distribution tube in the block behind the waterpump. If it's missing or corroded, it can affect your cooling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BruceW Posted March 8, 2006 Share Posted March 8, 2006 Is this the Packard service procedure for replacing the fan belt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shop Rat Posted March 8, 2006 Share Posted March 8, 2006 West, When will you men learn? Put out the cold beer AFTER your friends work on the car. All you wanted was a wash and polish, right? Good luck with your project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest John W. Harvey Posted March 8, 2006 Share Posted March 8, 2006 Wow,I thought changing the oil on my "modern cars" was tough!John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
West Peterson Posted March 8, 2006 Author Share Posted March 8, 2006 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is this the Packard service procedure for replacing the fan belt? </div></div>Actually, it may be faster to replace the fan belt this way than trying to wrestle around everything. After an hour and a half, three guys that never have done this before had the whole front end off...... of course, our thought as we had it apart was that it wasn't going to be as easy putting it back togeher. We'll see how good my friends really are once I get the fan belt replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
West Peterson Posted March 8, 2006 Author Share Posted March 8, 2006 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That's a 180 right? Do you have overdrive? Division window? Since you have it that far apart, you should check the brass water distribution tube in the block behind the waterpump. If it's missing or corroded, it can affect your cooling. </div></div>Yes. 180. Overdrive, air-conditioning. No division window (I wish it did, though, it would keep the dog from licking me on the back of the neck while I'm driving ).I'm interested in checking anything while it's this far apart. The main reason for removing the clip was to replace the front engine mount, but last weekend when I attempted to take the car for a spin, the radiator started leaking considerably, so it was good timing.I'm not familiar with the distribution tube behind the water pump. I wasn't planning on taking the water pump off, as it wasn't leaking or making any noises. However, this car had been sitting for 45 years in heated storage, and the coolant that I removed last year looked like coffee. Does this sound like it should be even more of a reason to check that distrubiton tube?... and is it something you replace or just clean??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R W Burgess Posted March 8, 2006 Share Posted March 8, 2006 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> (I wish it did, though, it would keep the dog from licking me on the back of the neck while I'm driving ). </div></div>West, I thought your cologne in Philly had a strange smell. You may want to change brands! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest De Soto Frank Posted March 8, 2006 Share Posted March 8, 2006 West,I can only speak from my Chrysler experience: the flathead Chrysler sixes and eights had a "water distributor tube" right behind the water pump (inside the block) that channeled and disbursed water along the block, particularly at the areas around the exhaust valve seats/pockets, to help keep those areas cool.These tubes were usually made from stamped steel, and rusted as the car aged.When these tubes rust-out/become clogged with rusty sludge, the engines begin to run hot.To replace them in a MoPar, the water pump has to come-off, the radiator comes out, and the grille has to be removed... similar to replacing a camshaft.Or, you "clip" the car, as you have done.If your old coolant looked cruddy, it would be well worth it to pull the water pump, and look down the water jacket/distributor tube with a strong light and see how much sludge/rust/crap is in there... now is the time...If you do see lots of crud, you can try blasting it out with a pressure washer, but you will probably need to pull the water tube, and knock-out the freeze plugs (welch plugs) around the block, and go in there with coat hangers, boiler-brushes, etc. to brake loose 65 years of sediment, then pressure wash, etc.Doing this now will eliminate a lot of potential overheating issues... esepically dragging that huge car around, with A/C. etc.See what your fellow "men who own them" have to say...Good luck ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amphicar BUYER Posted March 8, 2006 Share Posted March 8, 2006 The true test is when it's time to go back together. Make sure they know the headlights should point forward! Good friends like that are hard to find. It is a bee-yoo-tee-full car for sure! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K8096 Posted March 8, 2006 Share Posted March 8, 2006 The tube on your Packard was made of brass. Sometimes they corrode & then you don't get enough "cool" coolant to the back of the engine. When you take the waterpump off, it slides out the front of the engine. One of the Packard guys makes new ones, I don't know who. The only way to take this out is when the radiator is off, so if I were you, I'd take the waterpump off & take a look. You might as well redo the waterpump & put a modern bearing in it too since you'll have it off. I know people who have rebuilt Packard Eights & not put that tube in & had overheating problmes. You can ask Dave Mitchell, I'm sure he knows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JT Posted March 10, 2006 Share Posted March 10, 2006 I agree that spending the small amount of extra time and pulling the distribution tube to have a "look see" would be time well spent. With the front clip off it's a joy to do anything on or around the engine, at least for my old back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twitch Posted March 10, 2006 Share Posted March 10, 2006 If the 1st shot is 7PM where'd all the daylight come from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizzyDale Posted March 12, 2006 Share Posted March 12, 2006 TWITCH,TWITCH,TWITCH,Where the HE double hockey sticks have you been?????diz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shop Rat Posted March 12, 2006 Share Posted March 12, 2006 Probably just sobered up from New Years! **just kidding Twitch** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter J.Heizmann Posted March 12, 2006 Share Posted March 12, 2006 West, were you and your friends Triumph mechanics at one time?Had to ask the question.The sequence of photos brings back memories as that is exactly how the Lucas Shop Manual directed a mechanic to replace a rear tail light bulb on a TR6..."Tear it apart starting at the front until you eventually meet up with the tail light".Thanks for the memories...Peter J. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K8096 Posted March 12, 2006 Share Posted March 12, 2006 My friend told me he thought Kanter has the water distribution tubes & they are around $170. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
West Peterson Posted March 12, 2006 Author Share Posted March 12, 2006 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If the 1st shot is 7PM where'd all the daylight come from? </div></div>I didn't say the photo was "shot" at 7:00, I said "this is what it looked like at 7:00. The photo was taken at around 5:30, but nothing changed between 5:30 and 7:00, except that my belly was a little happier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest De Soto Frank Posted March 13, 2006 Share Posted March 13, 2006 So, how's the "patient" ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
West Peterson Posted March 13, 2006 Author Share Posted March 13, 2006 Big progress: I got the fan off this morning before leaving for work. Progress is progress, right?Also, I purchased a wiring harness for the whole front and dash/instruments. Should have done that a long time ago, as it's going to take 5 weeks to come in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted March 13, 2006 Share Posted March 13, 2006 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Big progress: I got the fan off this morning before leaving for work. Progress is progress, right?Also, I purchased a wiring harness for the whole front and dash/instruments. Should have done that a long time ago, as it's going to take 5 weeks to come in. </div></div>Should at least done it in the winter time...not when the nice weather is coming I plan all of my projects to end around April or May because that's when the Oregon rains stop. Then I start the projects up in Nov when the rains return.I would imagine in parts of the country like Arizona or Texas it almost the opposite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
West Peterson Posted March 14, 2006 Author Share Posted March 14, 2006 It's still winter here. 32 degrees this morning.The nice thing about pulling the whole front clip is that it may look like a major project, but it's not. We plan on having this piece on the road in the Spring. (Best laid plans...) The radiator's coming out tonight, along with replacing the engine mount, and pulling the water pump. After a thorough inspection of the water distribution tube, blowing it out or replacing (hopefully not $$), we can button it up... then I have the carburetor to contend with, and replacing all the vacuum lines leading to/from it. By the time all the mechanical stuff is finished, the wiring harness should be here.Plus, I didn't have any choice taking it apart: the radiator leak was just discovered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest De Soto Frank Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 "Necessity is a mother..." Sounds like you're investing the "pounds of prevention", West... it's certainly no fun trying to tour with a "hot-tempered" car... my De Soto was really beginning to have to "running hot" issues during some late summer touring here in the mountains of NE Penna...I really should replace the harness in my De Soto, but I don't feel that I have the $ to part with for that right now...I have spare engine that I'll be swapping into the De Soto this summer, and I will "clip" the front of the car at swap time, and re-build the front-suspension at that time, and re-paint the front frame as well... just as soon as the "good weather" is here to stay...Hope all goes well with the Packard ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted March 15, 2006 Share Posted March 15, 2006 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It's still winter here. 32 degrees this morning.<cut>Plus, I didn't have any choice taking it apart: the radiator leak was just discovered. </div></div>Been there done that All ready to go and then finding out you have no car for another 2 months and the weather is perfect. Good luck on the repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
West Peterson Posted March 15, 2006 Author Share Posted March 15, 2006 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My friend told me he thought Kanter has the water distribution tubes & they are around $170. </div></div>Hey K8!We replaced the motor mount last night, which made it possible to remove the water pump. The distribution tube is almost perfect, but we're going to flush and blow out the port anyway. Water pump appears to be just fine as well. Thanks, all, who suggested investigating this peice. Not being a mechanic, I never knew that tube was in there.Taking the radiator to shop today (during my lunch hour, Steve )Now my question is this:Will the radiator shop ruin the silphon thermostat (that operates the shutters) while they're pressure testing and whatever else it is that they do? It's a shop that is highly recommended and accustomed to doing old car radiators, and I'll call them, but I'd just like to know if I should be concerned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest De Soto Frank Posted March 15, 2006 Share Posted March 15, 2006 West,Unless there's something special about Pre-War Packard cooling systems that I'm not aware of, they were not pressurized systems (like modern cars from 1950's on), and one should be extra careful about applying pressure to the radiator...It should not require more than 1 or 2 psi on the submerged tank to make it bubble from any leaks...A lot of "kids" working in shops today are blissfully unaware that there were once un-pressurized cooling systems, and if they treat your Packard radiator the same way they would a modern core designed to run at 15+ psi, they could rupture the core in your (expensive) old radiator.Maybe I'm being an alarmist, and some Packard specialists will offer better advice, but it doesn't hurt to "Remind" the repair shop of the special nature of what they're working on...Look long and deep into the water jackets where that distro tube came from: take a straightened-out coat hanger with a small hook formed on one end and poke around the "floor" of that water jacket... if you "easily" dig-up red mud or dust, then you have rust/scale accumulations in your block, and it would probably be worthwhile to rake it out and blow/flush that crud out, also removing freeze/core plugs along the sides of the block , and also any drain pet-cocks. so that you can scrape all the crud out...A trip to your local plumbing supply house should offer a variety of "boiler brushes", which look like a small version of a chimmney sweep's brush, for a few bucks each...these can help clean-out the water jackets...You'll get grubby in the process, but your Packard will be happier for it...If (by some miracle) you can't dig-up any rust/crud from the floor or walls of the water jackets, and it doesn't look like the robot sub pictures from the wreck of the Titanic, then I guess you can consider the block "clean", and just put the tube and water pump back on... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
West Peterson Posted March 15, 2006 Author Share Posted March 15, 2006 Packard pressurized its systems in 1940. I do plan to "powerwash" with a special home-made tool. Overall, though, this 50,000-mile engine appears to be in extremely nice shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizzyDale Posted March 15, 2006 Share Posted March 15, 2006 Dear Frank,Your post reminds of the 85 horse flathead in our 37 Ford.After removing the heads i stuck a extendable magnet down between each cylinder and took out 2 quart cans full of old exterior bore material that had flaked off.diz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest De Soto Frank Posted March 16, 2006 Share Posted March 16, 2006 Being conveniently situated to Steamtown Nat'l Park (Scranton,PA), and taking the "shop tour" a couple times a year, I get to see the progress on the K-4 Pennsylvania RR "Pacific" that's being restored there, to go back to Horsehoe Curve...You ain't seen "rust" until you've been inside an old locomotive boiler !No wonder the railroads were glad to scrap the old tea-kettles for "low-maintenance" Diesel-electrics... Flathead MoPars are fairly famous for rust-clogged blocks by the time they get to be fifty years old or so... and about the only solution is to pull the water pump and distro tube (what's left of it) and pop all the freeze plugs and poke around in there to dig all that sediment loose, then flush/blast it out, dig some more. etc. "Repeat until rinse water runs clean"! Sometimes you find fossils from the Pleistocene era ! I think a lot of the rust came from the old alcohol antifreezes or straight water in warmer climates, w/o use of a rust inhibitor. Find a car from areas with akaline water, and you get limed-up cooling systems ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted March 20, 2006 Share Posted March 20, 2006 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It's still winter here. 32 degrees this morning.<cut>Plus, I didn't have any choice taking it apart: the radiator leak was just discovered. </div></div>Been there done that All ready to go and then finding out you have no car for another 2 months and the weather is perfect. Good luck on the repair. </div></div>West,I guess I spoke to soon. Took the T-Bird out for a small cruise in and before I parked I filled the gas tank. Started to have a major gas leak. It looks like its from where the filler neck enters the tank. This was all new last winter so not sure why it decided to leak after 3K miles of use. Time to drop the tank again and figure out what's going on. I got a lift so that make it easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dynaflash8 Posted March 21, 2006 Share Posted March 21, 2006 Nothing has changed. Today all cars look alike. Back then they all shared similar ideas. I see the front clip off of your Packard West. Well, my '39 Buick is the same way....wanna change the radiator? Remove the front clip. Looks like a dumb, difficult idea, but it really isn't that hard to do...remove the front clip that is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Albert Posted March 23, 2006 Share Posted March 23, 2006 Dynaflash8 nothing has changed, I had to do a power steering pump in a Audi tt.. Remove the front bumper + rebar, remove the head lights, unbolt the rad support, and pull the front part forward, with the rad & ac, just to be able to remove two (2) bolts to hold the pump. Total 6 hours to R&R the pump, and that is the instructions from Audi... Dont try this on the side of the highway.. Or maybe that Northstar Cadi's starter could be worse.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted March 23, 2006 Share Posted March 23, 2006 Albert, I've got a timing belt replacement coming up on my wife's TT Quattro roadster that I'm dreading. Perhaps I should just pony up and pay the dealer do it...I'm especially pleased with the way old cars are designed. Not only are they relatively simple, they were <span style="font-style: italic">designed</span> to be repaired in the field. Parts weren't removed and replaced, but they were serviced and repaired and were as good as new. How did we move away from that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest De Soto Frank Posted March 23, 2006 Share Posted March 23, 2006 Gee, and I was "worried" about finally (finishing) rebuilding the RB-383 wedge motor from my '60 Windsor. six years after I yanked it and started tearing it down...Actually the 383 rebuild was "easier" than replacing the alternator on my '93 Escort the other year... .From what I;ve seen of them, I think one of the most difficult cars to do under-hood work on were the Chrysler/De Soto Airilows... all that streamlined sheet metal made for tight quarters under the hood... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Albert Posted March 25, 2006 Share Posted March 25, 2006 From what I understand the audi TT timing belt is done the same way ( i have done other auti's) , you have to remove the front clip, but there is no timing marks on the engine, you use a special tool that locks the cam shaft(s) and the crank together, then remove the old belt and install the new one, takes about 15 min once you get all the other crap out of the way... Where's the 2" tall midget when you need him... I sware these engeneers that design these cars, caught a mechanic fooling around with there wife, this is how they get back at us.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now