Matt88RegalCustom Posted February 25 Author Share Posted February 25 2 hours ago, EmTee said: You probably washed the oil off the pistons and diluted the oil in the crankcase. A shot of carb cleaner to diagnose a 'no-start' condition is OK, however, running an engine for any length of time that way can cause problems... Alright this is very good to know if this is the case is the engine fixable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 Practically anything is fixable, given time & money. The real question is: "how bad is it?". If the engine requires a rebuild to fix (i.e., overbore, pistons, bearings, etc.) then you have to assess the value of the rest of the car. If a full rebuild is not affordable, you will probably be better off looking for a good used engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 21 hours ago, Matt88RegalCustom said: Yeah heard they were great on gas to just heard from a handful of people that it had a handful of problems but that’s typical with any engine My 78 Regal had one. No problems with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 22 hours ago, Frank DuVal said: No, his is even fire just like the GNX. Odd fire was last built for the 1977 model year. Even fire was in the 1978 model year. You can tell even from odd real easy, since there is a distributor on these engines. If there are 8 towers and two are not used, it is odd fire. 6 towers, it is even fire.😉 So, even fire from 1978 on into the 3800 series . Yes, 3800 series have no distributors.😁 I recall the odd/even fire. I did not know when the switch was made between the two. My 78 Regal was equipped with the V6. It was trouble free well past 100k miles. I also recall some trouble concerning a balanced running V6. Not sure if going odd to even played a part in a balanced running V6. Either way, the Buick V6 has become an engineering success. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 (edited) The V6 even fire and especially the 3800 engines were basically bullet proof when the regular maintenance was done. Most common problem is customers would not change the oil. I inspected one car when I was a rep, about a 1981 that the engine locked up at about 32,000 miles. It had the original oil filter on it and the customer eventually admitted that he did not change the oil because it was on a 36,000 mile lease and commented "why waste the money on oil changes". He paid for the engine repair. Edited February 25 by Larry Schramm (see edit history) 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt88RegalCustom Posted February 25 Author Share Posted February 25 6 hours ago, EmTee said: Practically anything is fixable, given time & money. The real question is: "how bad is it?". If the engine requires a rebuild to fix (i.e., overbore, pistons, bearings, etc.) then you have to assess the value of the rest of the car. If a full rebuild is not affordable, you will probably be better off looking for a good used engine. I was able to take the oil pan off today and it’s pretty bad from what I can see I think I blew up something in the motor near the crank unfortunately but I could be wrong. I had plans on swapping it with a Buick 350 5.7L V8 when it came to that time. When I get the time to take pictures of how bad it is I will send them in the chat 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt88RegalCustom Posted February 26 Author Share Posted February 26 I keep seeing that there’s different VIN engine codes for Engines like the Buick 350 5.7L V8 Small block does anyone know what the differences are between the different coded ones and which one would replace my 1984 Buick regal 231 3.8L V6 if there is any necessary differences that one would have different then the other is all. I know the Buick 350 5.7L V8 would line up with the engine mount bolts and transmission lines and all but it’s something I want to know before I buy a replacement engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 The easiest engine exchange is if the car has a 3.8 V-6 in it, then get another 3.8 V-6 to replace it. Less stuff to worry about and an easier hook up. Just IMO 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt88RegalCustom Posted February 26 Author Share Posted February 26 37 minutes ago, Larry Schramm said: The easiest engine exchange is if the car has a 3.8 V-6 in it, then get another 3.8 V-6 to replace it. Less stuff to worry about and an easier hook up. Just IMO Yeah I probably will start off with that but I do want to switch it because a lot of the stuff in that car line up with the engine I’m looking for is all that’s why I asked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 I'm pretty certain that you'll need to change the motor mounts - including the pedestals that mount to the frame in order to install the V8. The best way to proceed with a V8 swap would be to get a V8 parts car (preferably with the good engine you want to use) and then swap all of the parts from the parts car to yours. As Larry pointed out, swapping-in a good V6 will get you on the road faster and cheaper. Lots of picky issues will likely arise with accessory mounting when going from the 3.8 to a 350 V8. You'll also need to swap the radiator for a V8 radiator. The original transmission may be OK with a mild 350, but better to source the V8 engine and transmission as an assembly. From what I gather reading your posts, I'd suggest doing the V6 swap for now, then if you want to switch to a V8 you can take time to research the pieces you'll need and start sourcing them before taking the car apart again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt88RegalCustom Posted February 26 Author Share Posted February 26 3 hours ago, EmTee said: I'm pretty certain that you'll need to change the motor mounts - including the pedestals that mount to the frame in order to install the V8. The best way to proceed with a V8 swap would be to get a V8 parts car (preferably with the good engine you want to use) and then swap all of the parts from the parts car to yours. As Larry pointed out, swapping-in a good V6 will get you on the road faster and cheaper. Lots of picky issues will likely arise with accessory mounting when going from the 3.8 to a 350 V8. You'll also need to swap the radiator for a V8 radiator. The original transmission may be OK with a mild 350, but better to source the V8 engine and transmission as an assembly. From what I gather reading your posts, I'd suggest doing the V6 swap for now, then if you want to switch to a V8 you can take time to research the pieces you'll need and start sourcing them before taking the car apart again. Yeah I heard what I needed to do was just change the mounts but other wise the transmission line matches right up with it but most likely I’m gonna start with the V6 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt88RegalCustom Posted March 30 Author Share Posted March 30 So I was taking my old 1984 Buick Regals 23- 3.8L V6 engine and I started disconnecting the bolts connecting the bell housing to the engine block in which I got all of them off except one of and it’s a TH350 so I started jacking very little and moved the engine very slowly to give me the slightest bit of room to get the last one off and it wouldn’t come off and while trying to take it off the bell housing snapped clean in half and the transmission is still good in working condition but I’m currently stuck and I’m asking this to wonder if I can buy a replacement bell housing for the transmission and where I can get one and what my options are Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 36 minutes ago, Matt88RegalCustom said: So I was taking my old 1984 Buick Regals 23- 3.8L V6 engine and I started disconnecting the bolts connecting the bell housing to the engine block in which I got all of them off except one of and it’s a TH350 so I started jacking very little and moved the engine very slowly to give me the slightest bit of room to get the last one off and it wouldn’t come off and while trying to take it off the bell housing snapped clean in half and the transmission is still good in working condition but I’m currently stuck and I’m asking this to wonder if I can buy a replacement bell housing for the transmission and where I can get one and what my options are Probably a wrecking yard item. Sounds like you didn't have things supported properly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt88RegalCustom Posted May 9 Author Share Posted May 9 (edited) So I purchased a new engine the other day for my car and the oil pressure sender apparently was broken and stripped. Any idea on how I can get it off? I was able to loosen it at first but it was already stripped. Like it was destroyed when I got it and I would have no problem putting a new one in I just am in a stuck situation. Because now it is completely rounded. I also thought about cutting it off but I don’t got enough room Edited May 9 by Matt88RegalCustom (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt88RegalCustom Posted May 9 Author Share Posted May 9 Like when I even tried impacting and wrenching it off I did it so much that it’s completely rounded Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt88RegalCustom Posted May 9 Author Share Posted May 9 It’s not the inside that’s stripped it’s the outside nut part of it used to take off and put back on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlLaFong Posted May 9 Share Posted May 9 You're in way over your head Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt88RegalCustom Posted May 9 Author Share Posted May 9 55 minutes ago, CarlLaFong said: You're in way over your head Why do you say that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe_padavano Posted May 10 Share Posted May 10 Can you post a photo of the sending unit part that's the problem? I haven't been following this thread closely and can't say that I'm up to speed on everything, plus descriptions don't always show the whole problem. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted May 10 Share Posted May 10 I would try a small pipe wrench or a basin wrench. The harder you pull on these, the tighter it will grip, unlike vice-grips or channel lock pliers). 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe_padavano Posted May 10 Share Posted May 10 Without a photo of exactly what the OP is talking about, it's difficult to suggest a tool that will work. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt88RegalCustom Posted May 10 Author Share Posted May 10 Yeah I understand I should provide more info here’s a photo I have never seen such a bolt this badly stripped 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted May 10 Share Posted May 10 Rounded of in my neck of the woods! Vice grips or pipe wrench? Ben 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted May 10 Share Posted May 10 Time to drill out the center and use an easy out. Apply heat first. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt88RegalCustom Posted May 10 Author Share Posted May 10 35 minutes ago, avgwarhawk said: Time to drill out the center and use an easy out. Apply heat first. Yeah that’s what I was thinking but what do you mean by use an easy out if you don’t mind me asking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 If I had this problem, I would add some heat to the engine block in about the area of the sending unit remains, not on the remains and then use some vice grips to gently work it out with back and forth motion moving it counter clockwise slowly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe_padavano Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 FYI, using a correct oil pressure switch socket on that switch originally would have prevented the carnage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 16 hours ago, Larry Schramm said: If I had this problem, I would add some heat to the engine block in about the area of the sending unit remains, not on the remains and then use some vice grips to gently work it out with back and forth motion moving it counter clockwise slowly. Yep, this. You want to heat the block, not the remains of the sender. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TAKerry Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 On 5/10/2024 at 9:40 AM, EmTee said: I would try a small pipe wrench or a basin wrench. The harder you pull on these, the tighter it will grip, unlike vice-grips or channel lock pliers). I would love to see the person that could get enough torque with a basin wrench to pull out a stripped stuck bolt!! Looks like the op needs heat and vice grips........... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 21 hours ago, Matt88RegalCustom said: what do you mean by use an easy out if you don’t mind me asking I think Easy Out (EZ-Out) is a brand name of bolt/screw extractor. Don't go to cheap. Get a good brand. easy out bolt extractor set - Google Search 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt88RegalCustom Posted May 11 Author Share Posted May 11 On 5/10/2024 at 6:31 PM, Ben Bruce aka First Born said: Rounded of in my neck of the woods! Vice grips or pipe wrench? Ben Vice grips worked for the first little at the start but then couldn’t grip onto bolt anymore and wouldn’t work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt88RegalCustom Posted May 12 Author Share Posted May 12 3 hours ago, Ronnie said: I think Easy Out (EZ-Out) is a brand name of bolt/screw extractor. Don't go to cheap. Get a good brand. easy out bolt extractor set - Google Search I’ve looked them up but I’ve seen to get a big variety of them is there a specific one I should be getting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted May 12 Share Posted May 12 6 minutes ago, Matt88RegalCustom said: Vice grips worked for the first little at the start but then couldn’t grip onto bolt anymore and wouldn’t work LOL! Matt, another question/problem with no consensus. Good luck. Ben 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt88RegalCustom Posted May 12 Author Share Posted May 12 4 minutes ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said: LOL! Matt, another question/problem with no consensus. Good luck. Ben Oh I will try my best the vice grips just were hooking on awkwardly because of the angle the oil pressure anwser is at. I am honestly losing faith for many reasons because of the lack of grip I am getting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt88RegalCustom Posted May 12 Author Share Posted May 12 13 hours ago, joe_padavano said: FYI, using a correct oil pressure switch socket on that switch originally would have prevented the carnage. Yeah I know I’m really irritated on this exact reason I found out after the fact that it was slightly different from other sockets I went and bought one today to take the old one off my old engine block so I can use that one on the new engine when I get it off but I lie stuck here because of my vice grips and other shit not wanting to stay on the bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted May 12 Share Posted May 12 Did you heat the block 90 degrees in the area of the gauge prior to trying to remove it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt88RegalCustom Posted May 12 Author Share Posted May 12 15 minutes ago, Larry Schramm said: Did you heat the block 90 degrees in the area of the gauge prior to trying to remove it? Yeah I used a heat torch around that area and it seems to not be stripped inside I just can’t get a good enough grip on it to spin and turn the actual thing out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt88RegalCustom Posted May 12 Author Share Posted May 12 (edited) Also is there a specific kind of easy out tool that I need to use and a specific size just so I know I can get the right ones Edited May 12 by Matt88RegalCustom (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted May 12 Share Posted May 12 1 hour ago, Matt88RegalCustom said: Also is there a specific kind of easy out tool that I need to use and a specific size just so I know I can get the right ones You want to get a set similar to the one in the link below. I don't know anything about that brand so I'm not recommending it, but the photos of the set are a good illustration of a set like you need. I like the spiral extractors better than the fluted design for removing something like the sensor you are trying to remove. 14Pcs Screw Extractor and Left Hand Drill Bits Set, Bolt Remover Reverse Cobalt HSS Steel Drill Bit for Remove Stripped Screws and Broken Bolts - Amazon.com Without being there to look at the sensor you're trying to remove it would be hard to recommend the extractor size you will need. I'm betting the sensor has 1/8" tapered pipe threads that screw into the block. If that's true, the sensor should have a 1/8" hole in it to guide the drill bit. I would enlarge the hole in it with a 1/4" LEFT hand drill bit like is included in the kit that I linked to. That should still leave enough metal in the sensor for the extractor to bite into. You want to select the largest extractor from the kit that will go deep enough into the hole you drill to get a good bite and still have good strength. Then lightly tap it with a hammer so it will bite into the sensor before you start turning it with a wrench to remove the sensor. You have to be careful not to apply to much torque on the extractor to avoid breaking it. If you break the extractor you are in big trouble. The extractor is so hard that a drill bit won't touch it. The good news is, assuming it is a tapered pipe thread, once you turn it about 1/2-3/4 turn it should spin the rest of the way out easily. Good luck. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe_padavano Posted May 12 Share Posted May 12 I would not use an easy-out on this. This is a steel NPT thread with minimal thickness in the area behind the threads. There won't be enough material for the easy-out to bite into and frankly, if you can't get enough torque on the larger diameter body of the sender, how will you get enough through the small diameter easy-out? My next move here would be to use a cutoff tool or Dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut flats in the large diameter body of the switch and then use a really big open end wrench to attempt to loosen it. My other alternative would be to weld a nut to the remains of the switch body and use an impact wrench to remove it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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