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Paint Code Z


Jemens

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Even if you found a formula it wouldn't be accurate because additives continuously change which changes the formula. I have found Paintscratch.com colors are amazingly accurate. You can order paint from them in every container imaginable.

The other option is to find a nicely preserved original 67 Buick paint chip chart and take it to a competent automotive paint jobber and have them scan and match it. Confirm with a test spray compared against the chip.

Edited by JZRIV (see edit history)
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What I thought was that the color camera allowed decomposition of the color into constituent components from which software could derive a 'recipe' for the color.  What I discovered after talking with the guy behind the counter at the local paint jobber is the camera image is simply used to search the paint catalog for a 'match'.  Naturally, the result was 'no match' for Riviera Gold Poly...  They did still have a few old paint chip catalogs, but the oldest was late '70s, so I had them mix a pint of something that looked sorta close.  When I opened the can at home it was obviously more 'gold' than the color on my car.  I was able to mix-in a little from a touch-up bottle I bought on-line that was too green and got something sorta close enough to fill a couple of the worst chips.

 

I stopped at the PPG trailer at the Syracuse Nationals a few years ago and described my problem.  The guy there was able to look-up the color and print out the 'formula'.  The issue, as Jason mentioned, is the paint chemistry has changed such that the specified toners are no longer available.  At this point it seems that someone will have to re-create the color using available toners in a trial-and-error fashion.  Maybe I'll give Paint Scratch a try...

 

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On 9/28/2023 at 7:25 AM, EmTee said:

I stopped at the PPG trailer at the Syracuse Nationals a few years ago and described my problem.  The guy there was able to look-up the color and print out the 'formula'.  The issue, as Jason mentioned, is the paint chemistry has changed such that the specified toners are no longer available.  At this point it seems that someone will have to re-create the color using available toners in a trial-and-error fashion.  Maybe I'll give Paint Scratch a try...

 

 

My own experience when matching 66 shadow Turquoise is what Tim mentions above in last sentence. For the initial paint job they scanned my paint chip to get close, then it took an experienced Sherwin Williams Auto paint representative about 3 hours of trial and error and multiple test sprays to finally nail it. So maybe 8 months later after the paint job, a defect occurred and paint lifted in a couple small areas. Shop had to repaint but the formula used to paint the car less than a year prior had already become outdated due to additive changes so the paint rep had to come back to match it. After that, I needed a little touchup paint for inconspicuous areas in the trunk so figured I'd try PaintScratch for speed and simplicity as it just needed to be close. I was blown away when it arrived and was as close to a dead match as could be!

     

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Just now, JZRIV said:

My own experience when matching 66 shadow Turquoise is what Tim mentions above in last sentence. For the initial paint job they scanned my paint chip to get close, then it took an experienced Sherwin Williams Auto paint representative about 3 hours of trial and error and multiple test sprays to finally nail it. So maybe 8 months later after the paint job, a defect occurred and paint lifted in a couple small areas. Shop had to repaint but the formula used to paint the car less than a year prior had already become outdated due to additive changes so the paint rep had to come back to match it. After that, I needed a little touchup paint for inconspicuous areas in the trunk so figured I'd try PaintScratch for speed and simplicity as it just needed to be close. I was blown away when it arrived and was as close to a dead match as could be!

     

Jason brings up an important point, which is when you paint a car, it is vital to have quite a bit of extra  paint

made when ordering paint so that you have an extra gallon for repairs later on.

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From the book "American Automobile Paint Code Interchange Manual by Peter Sessler........... 

1967  Buick Z code = PPG # 43665

 

Trivia.... 1967 Buick L code was called  "Smoker's Lung Gray"

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10 hours ago, RivNut said:

But what is not said is if those formula numbers are for the original base colors or current base colors from which to mix the wanted color.  

My money says it's the former...

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11 hours ago, EmTee said:

Ebay?

I've had good luck with Ebay, yard sales, swap meets, occasional horse trading with other hobbyists, craigslist.. no secret suppliers, I just keep scrounging.

Like parts and tools,  if paint is a BOP color and the price is right I snag it.

 

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Make one phone call to   Sherwyn  Williams automotive paint store.

6600-44th-st-K,

Sacramento  CA 95823

phone1-916-424-1722.

It may be a long shot, but when i lived there i painted 2 cars 1 65 Riviera  in silver cloud  ZZ. the other a 73 Alfa  GTV  wifes car. .

well with the 65 Riv i went in and they had  an original Buick   formula  book with all the  specs starting from 1963 or 1964.

this was about 20 years ago, and the 65  paint  today is as good  as it was the day i did it-even though i sold here about 5 years ago.

in Australia,---used  there 7000 system   2 coats of base  color  and 3 coats of  clear.

009.JPG

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There is some risk with old paint but there really is some out there. I keep mine from freezing by doing long term storage in my house cellar. I keep my garage at a minimum of 40 degrees during winter.

 

My amazing test is some engine lacquer I saved from my grandfather's stash. I have 10-12 quarts of paint he bought from someone's old stock in the mid-1960s. It was always closed and sealed. I stirred up the Buick green for a test and was happy to see it survived.

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112711h.jpg.0c605536f698668a01df126f3dafb687.jpg

112711k.jpg.cfc01edda05498b0be3b24507b2885b0.jpg

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