EmTee Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 For comparison... https://usradiator.com/radiator-finder?make=Buick&model=Riviera&_year=1966 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cquisuila Posted February 2 Author Share Posted February 2 (edited) On 9/27/2023 at 3:44 PM, EmTee said: Pay attention to the size of the stream of water exiting the radiator. It should start out at the size of the opening and then decrease as the radiator empties. Here's a video of the test on the radiator from my 1938 Buick ("Before & After"): https://www.caparadiator.com/video I have tested ! thank you emtee !🙏 it seems good but the radiator has signs of wear at the bottom so i found in my city a car and truck radiator repair specialist (i precise that it is rare in France to find repair specialists....) and for equivalent $760 my radiator is rebuilt from scratch with 3 rows (2 rows original) i think it's a good investment for a car more than 50 years old🙂 Edited February 2 by cquisuila (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 Good! You will not regret spending that money. Now you know that the radiator is performing as it should. If the fins between the tubes in the core were corroding and falling out the radiator would not be as efficient as it should be. Back-flush the heater core before you install the new radiator, and if possible, remove the drain plugs on each side of the engine block just above the oil pan and flush any sediment out of the engine block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cquisuila Posted February 2 Author Share Posted February 2 (edited) 4 minutes ago, EmTee said: Back-flush the heater core before you install the new radiator, and if possible, remove the drain plugs on each side of the engine block just above the oil pan and flush any sediment out of the engine block. yes i back flush again the heater core for the 2 drain plugs on left and right i had done this task Edited February 2 by cquisuila (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 As long as the ignition timing is set correctly with the correct thermostat installed and the fan clutch and belts are tight I think there should be no overheating now. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cquisuila Posted February 2 Author Share Posted February 2 (edited) 4 minutes ago, EmTee said: As long as the ignition timing is set correctly with the correct thermostat installed and the fan clutch and belts are tight I think there should be no overheating now. and i will test heat Temperature on up and bottom radiator Edited February 2 by cquisuila (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 That is also useful for adjusting the brake shoes. When they are set correctly the difference between wheels on the same axle should be ~3 degrees C or less. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cquisuila Posted February 19 Author Share Posted February 19 (edited) so i just changed my radiator and....and.....the heating problem seems to be solved !!!! YES !!!!! 😉 I saw the inside of the old one (which was completely opened by the repairer who changed the entire interior body) and it was very clogged (the 3 rows) ! i also installed the expansion tank with the dual inlet/outlet radiator cap I will post some photographs online 🙂 Edited February 19 by cquisuila (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cquisuila Posted February 19 Author Share Posted February 19 THERE remains the concern with the temperature needle on the dashboard sometimes it moves and sometimes it doesn't wire certainly ?🤨 the temp probe is new Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Cannon Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 On 9/25/2023 at 12:39 AM, cquisuila said: thanks no this is a 425 I have tested the flow in the radiator many times and it circulates So this is a 1966 Riviera with the 425 CI engine? Use the infrared thermometer gun to measure the temperature of the water outlet when hot. Have you now installed a 180 degree-F thermostat? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cquisuila Posted February 19 Author Share Posted February 19 Hello See precedent post😀 I changed the radiator and it seems to cancel the over heating!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clay50 Posted February 20 Share Posted February 20 I have a 1965 Riviera GS that I had the same problem, I replaced the radiator with a high-flow version since I live in Florida. After replacing I started it up and let it idle while replacing the water/antifreeze, for 1/2 hour, looked good so I road tested it for 40 minutes and is working fine now, pretty much stayed at +/- 185 degrees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cquisuila Posted February 20 Author Share Posted February 20 (edited) 11 minutes ago, Clay50 said: I have a 1965 Riviera GS that I had the same problem, I replaced the radiator with a high-flow version since I live in Florida. After replacing I started it up and let it idle while replacing the water/antifreeze, for 1/2 hour, looked good so I road tested it for 40 minutes and is working fine now, pretty much stayed at +/- 185 degrees. My radiator specialist has completely disassembled the radiator ; the body was changed identically with 3 rows but with more channels and it is a little thicker; the transmission oil cooler was cleaned and the drain plug changed ; finally it was painted black !🙂 Edited February 20 by cquisuila (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted February 20 Share Posted February 20 What does the gauge show when the engine is at operating temperature? Is it anywhere near the center of the range? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cquisuila Posted February 20 Author Share Posted February 20 (edited) On 2/20/2024 at 4:25 PM, EmTee said: What does the gauge show when the engine is at operating temperature? Is it anywhere near the center of the range? Sometimes the gauge works and rises depending on the engine temperature rise and sometimes not... and in this case, the needle returns completely to the left It is probably a problem with electrical contact? TACHYMETER Ground ? But this intermittent breakdown is annoying ! Reassembling the dashboard is a chore!! 🥵 Edited February 22 by cquisuila (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cquisuila Posted May 7 Author Share Posted May 7 (edited) i installed the new jauge VDO😉 in my car > i will post a photo of my installation and this seems to indicate temperature 205° F, vehicle turning and stationary on the road < no test again Edited May 7 by cquisuila (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 Sir, ive used mechanical water temp gauges and they work great. Some of our more experienced mechanics on the forum feel the mechanical gauges are more reliable and accurate. Turbinator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cquisuila Posted May 8 Author Share Posted May 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cquisuila Posted May 8 Author Share Posted May 8 2 hours ago, Turbinator said: Sir, ive used mechanical water temp gauges and they work great. Some of our more experienced mechanics on the forum feel the mechanical gauges are more reliable and accurate. Turbinator Yes ,but as i told , my jauge has a masse default and i am tired to remove again the tachymeter and to make a bridge wire... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 52 minutes ago, cquisuila said: Yes ,but as i told , my jauge has a masse default and i am tired to remove again the tachymeter and to make a bridge wire... Vraiment? I can understand the frustration doing the same repair effort with no progress. The time it takes me to repair is about three times the normal time. Remember it is suppose to be fun. Turbinator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cquisuila Posted May 8 Author Share Posted May 8 And see multiple bridge wires to solve the problem ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 22 hours ago, cquisuila said: ...and this seems to indicate temperature 205° F, vehicle turning and stationary... OK, I could see 205° F being at the upper end of "normal". That's the temperature that my 2004 Chevrolet K1500's 5.3L V8 normally operates. What is the opening temperature of the thermostat that you're using? If you are using a 50/50 mix of EG antifreeze and water with a 15 psi radiator cap the coolant should not boil at that temperature. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 1 hour ago, EmTee said: That's the temperature that my 2004 Chevrolet K1500's 5.3L V8 normally operates. Is that reading the stepper gauge like the speedometer? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 7 hours ago, 60FlatTop said: Is that reading the stepper gauge like the speedometer? Yes, oil pressure and temperature were the only functional gauges until i replaced all of the stepper motors late last fall. Looking at the gauge today I'd say the indicated temp is more like 200~203° F. It has always run at that value for as long as I have owned it (the last 110K miles). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 On 5/8/2024 at 5:43 PM, EmTee said: Looking at the gauge today I'd say the indicated temp is more like 200~203° F. EmTee, Gauge is the keyword for reading what the gauge measures. The “idiot” warning light on my dash board tells me it is too late. Some have said if the Riviera is properly maintained gauges are not necessary. There are those that are so in tune with their Riv they say they can drive with eyes closed and by smell. I smell something and its not their driving. A person can do their best to maintain a 60 year old car and the car can do something unexpected. Follow the Scouts Motto when on a road trip “ Bring everything.” Later Gator Turbinator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 I agree that the idiot lights mean "too late." But where we are more or less forced to put gauges in the consoles unless we have a 3rd eye in our knee cap, they're almost useless if you intend on keeping your eyes on the road. No reason not to have both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 At what temp does the sender turn the light on? 260 degrees F? 240 degrees F? That could be an issue. Finding a sender rated at 230 degrees F might cause some false alarms, BUT might also be better than one set for 270 degrees F. Knowing when it comes on can be key in the light's effectiveness. IF we know what that temp is. After the car has been on the highway for 20 minutes, at highway speeds, might be interesting to us an IR heat gun to go over the engine to see the temp of various areas as the engine idles. That could give you the idea of what any "baseline" might be and possibly detect something getting ready to happen in the coming future. Just some thoughts, NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted May 12 Share Posted May 12 15 hours ago, NTX5467 said: something getting ready to happen in the coming future. You know planning on going maintenance can help keep an old car running. I never knew there was a thermo stat that when it gets stuck it stays stuck in a position that lets water flow. I find that to be a good product. Seems to me when they get stuck they get stuck in the closed position. I believe Motorad makes such a thermstat. Later Gator Turbinatore Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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