My engine is overheating

[cquisuila]

7 hours ago, RivNut said:

If there is an air lock in the system.park with the front of the car elevated, loosen the radiator cap and let it sit overnight. If you drilled the small hole in the flange of the thermostat as Jim suggested, Mother Nature will burn the air bubble out of the system.  Once the car has been parked for the night and cooled, check the water level. Check it again in the morning and compare.   If you can’t park uphill, a couple of jack stands under the front will work.

- OK thanks

I will drill a little hole in the flange of thermostat

I park with the front car elevated, radiator cap loosen (i already made this job but not car elevated...)

 

Edited September 27, 2023 by cquisuila (see edit history)

[EmTee]

If you are concerned about the radiator, disconnect the lower hose and plug the outlet.  Fill the radiator with water, then quickly remove the plug from the lower hose (or radiator nipple) and measure the time it takes for the radiator to empty.  Do this a few times and average the results.  If the core is open and not blocked it should only take 10 ~ 15 seconds to empty and you should see a strong stream of water exiting the radiator.  Long time and/or weak flow from the lower hose suggests there is a blockage.

[cquisuila]

3 minutes ago, EmTee said:

If you are concerned about the radiator, disconnect the lower hose and plug the outlet.  Fill the radiator with water, then quickly remove the plug from the lower hose (or radiator nipple) and measure the time it takes for the radiator to empty.  Do this a few times and average the results.  If the core is open and not blocked it should only take 10 ~ 15 seconds to empty and you should see a strong stream of water exiting the radiator.  Long time and/or weak flow from the lower hose suggests there is a blockage.

ok*

I will redo this work but counting the time from now on and therefore controlling the flow🙂

[EmTee]

Pay attention to the size of the stream of water exiting the radiator.  It should start out at the size of the opening and then decrease as the radiator empties.

 

Here's a video of the test on the radiator from my 1938 Buick ("Before & After"):

 

https://www.caparadiator.com/video

 

[cquisuila]

3 hours ago, EmTee said:

Pay attention to the size of the stream of water exiting the radiator.  It should start out at the size of the opening and then decrease as the radiator empties.

 

Here's a video of the test on the radiator from my 1938 Buick ("Before & After"):

 

https://www.caparadiator.com/video

 

It is very good  ! thank you for this astuce !!! i will make this test to verify good or bad efficient radiator !

before without explosion and after with the explosion !!!

Edited September 27, 2023 by cquisuila (see edit history)

[EmTee]

Can you see the videos on this site?

 

https://www.caparadiator.com/video

[Jim Cannon]

1 hour ago, EmTee said:

Can you see the videos on this site?

 

https://www.caparadiator.com/video

They only play for about 3 seconds and then they stop, so you cannot see what you are trying to demonstrate with them.

 

[cquisuila]

1 hour ago, Jim Cannon said:

They only play for about 3 seconds and then they stop, so you cannot see what you are trying to demonstrate with them.

 

it is efficient it was a  problem in my enterprise🤢

 

[RivNut]

Make sure that the radiator cap is not in place. A sealed radiator cap would cause a vacuum in the radiator and restrict the flow you’re watching.

[cquisuila]

On 9/26/2023 at 11:10 PM, rodneybeauchamp said:

Not sure on these engines but my overheating on a Skylark was caused by an air lock after I drained and refilled the system. 
 

Perhaps there is an air lock and not enough fluid in the system. Ended up using a funnel to help burp the system.

 

Just my two bobs worth

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

that's too much !!!🤣

[60FlatTop]

These infrared thermometers are really handy. You can read the differentials across the radiator or engine, the exact temperature at the thermostat housing, exhaust manifold variations, all kinds of stuff.

 

https://www.amazon.com/KIZEN-Infrared-Thermometer-Gun-Humans/dp/B07VSHR9M6?th=1

[XframeFX]

13 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:

These infrared thermometers are really handy.

OMG, they are so inexpensive, I keep the one with a broken target beam in my Riv's glovebox. Not so much for overheating but for ongoing rough idle troubleshooting.

 

A youtube channel has the dyno test cell operator squirting water on each primary header tube. Huh? A better tool here in 2023 would be sequential testing with an infrared thermometer.

 

 

Edited September 30, 2023 by XframeFX (see edit history)

[cquisuila]

I just bought

 

Edited October 6, 2023 by cquisuila (see edit history)

[EmTee]

I use mine to check for equal brake adjustment at each wheel.  When adjusted correctly the temps for wheels on the same axle are within ~5° F.

[cquisuila]

remark : I hear a sort of gurgling sound... GLOUGLOU.... every time I turn on the heating  !

 

prooth of air in the circuit ???🤒

 

 

 

[EmTee]

9 hours ago, cquisuila said:

prooth of air in the circuit ???🤒

Yes.  Have you pressure-tested the cooling system?  That should identify leaks where air can enter.  Or, add some florescent dye to the coolant and use a blacklight to identify any leaks.

 

I would pay particular attention to the heater control valve.

 

Edited October 26, 2023 by EmTee (see edit history)

[cquisuila]

7 hours ago, EmTee said:

Yes.  Have you pressure-tested the cooling system?  That should identify leaks where air can enter.  Or, add some florescent dye to the coolant and use a blacklight to identify any leaks.

 

I would pay particular attention to the heater control valve.

 

Not test for pressure 

 

If it is this water valve on the picture it isn't on my car...

i just added a plastic valve but I had the impression that it was causing a problem in the cooling circuit so I removed it

 

Information  i have changed the evaporator on a/c 

Edited October 26, 2023 by cquisuila (see edit history)

[cquisuila]

8 hours ago, EmTee said:

Yes.  Have you pressure-tested the cooling system?  That should identify leaks where air can enter.  Or, add some florescent dye to the coolant and use a blacklight to identify any leaks.

 

I would pay particular attention to the heater control valve.

 

NO coolant leaks on motor

[cquisuila]

[XframeFX]

? ? ? ?

That image is for a 1963 HVAC Control, not a 1966 unit.

[RivNut]

[cquisuila]

2 hours ago, XframeFX said:

? ? ? ?

That image is for a 1963 HVAC Control, not a 1966 unit.

it is an example

what form for my riviera 1966 ? PLEASE

 

[EmTee]

1966 Riviera heater control valve:  https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=815464&cc=1319183&pt=6860&jsn=870&_nck=Ekt6BqBF1pwlXdx0gYlm1esw98pF26vehMm%2FGG3C%2Fl2QOXSJubi7WSpUmUSdg3OxWOs2f5z9h422EONy36O0PjCuaadDqI1r86y%2FvJ1lBqxeBNhI9mMX8H1x0fHFzmF%2Bemc5SoFjBM4YwvQ2tLgA0bBeGftY6hwHyLHQiRSVBbt6CTUiyOsVm6ULZDb3KHE%2FdcHxolESy83EuTcu3RPj%2BI%2FCM0faq7MnmxiP6Bf51ULhgFvMgzFxqaVw%2FIXI1YwW4H5Ltpx9IvC%2BIQHSmkVc0V%2FXBRIEOWbal9uAjwxTDzWNb4pF6UxLEWHprHXaykb9tQo%2BkTthu3ou8lKoYDfsHU6n%2Fk0mpdrbt4NuYn1KFbgwGRtr0ZWMtyOG%2BQURUfem

 

 

[cquisuila]

It is good

It is the part that i haven't.

I added but i removed because i thought that it was the problem  

[cquisuila]

[cquisuila]

FOR GLOUGLOU solution ?

 

i have to pass water in pression  in the hoses to heat core (entry hose and return hose)

[EmTee]

Are you sure the heater core is not leaking?  Is the carpet in the passenger side foot well dry?

[cquisuila]

16 minutes ago, EmTee said:

Are you sure the heater core is not leaking?  Is the carpet in the passenger side foot well dry?

i haven't carpet for this moment

the ground is again bare metal ! and i don't observe leaking

 

i will verify again

 

the level in coolant radiator is normal

 

>>>> 🙄And  pass water in pression  in the hoses to heat core (entry hose and return hose) is a good job ??

Edited October 27, 2023 by cquisuila (see edit history)

[cquisuila]

for information the job is not yet done

it is winter in France😀

[RivNut]

7 hours ago, cquisuila said:

for information the job is not yet done

it is winter in France😀

Should not be a problem for you.  I just checked the temperatures in you community.  55 degrees F there. Below 0 degrees F here.  55 F = 13 C.  😎.  0 F = -17 C. 🥶 Get to work, it’s a lovely day in Mount-de-Marsan .  😁

Edited January 15 by RivNut (see edit history)

[cquisuila]

15 hours ago, RivNut said:

Should not be a problem for you.  I just checked the temperatures in you community.  55 degrees F there. Below 0 degrees F here.  55 F = 13 C.  😎.  0 F = -17 C. 🥶 Get to work, it’s a lovely day in Mount-de-Marsan .  😁

the france is great...😜 and has various temp

 

 

Edited January 16 by cquisuila (see edit history)

[RivNut]

2 hours ago, cquisuila said:

the france is great...😜 and has various temp

 

 

Last August my wife and I were in the Normandy area for a few days then traveled through  Paris on our way to Frankfurt and Bavaria for a number of days. 

[cquisuila]

35 minutes ago, RivNut said:

Last August my wife and I were in the Normandy area for a few days then traveled through  Paris on our way to Frankfurt and Bavaria for a number of days. 

i live in west south at MONT DE MARSAN

[RivNut]

6 hours ago, cquisuila said:

i live in west south at MONT DE MARSAN

I figured that why it’s in your signature block.

[cquisuila]

I have a question :

 

what's the matter of my original radiator  please ?😄

 

 

[EmTee]

3 hours ago, cquisuila said:

what's the matter of my original radiator  please ?

I'm guessing the core is plugged.  Have you tried performing a flow test?  Cap the lower hose nipple, fill the radiator with water, then quickly remove the plug from the lower hose opening and measure the time needed to empty the radiator.  Also note the diameter and distance of the stream of water exiting the radiator.  Fatter and longer is better. 

[cquisuila]

yes you told me this test

thank you !!

i have to make this when I have time to disassemble😁

 

[RivNut]

4 hours ago, EmTee said:

I'm guessing the core is plugged.  Have you tried performing a flow test?  Cap the lower hose nipple, fill the radiator with water, then quickly remove the plug from the lower hose opening and measure the time needed to empty the radiator.  Also note the diameter and distance of the stream of water exiting the radiator.  Fatter and longer is better. 

In the beginning you should see a “fatter and longer” flow. But as the radiator empties the flow will be less fat and less long.  The weight of the water in the radiator exerts pressure on everything below it.. As the weight diminishes, so does the pressure.  
 

When the cooling system is operating, water is flowing into the top tank and exiting through the bottom.  Anything that might be clogging the tank settles on the tops of the tubes.  Turn the radiator upside down and run water from the bottom down and out the top.  Some of the clog will be forced out.  I had poor heat in a car one time and the mechanic diagnosed it as a clogged heater core.  He reversed the hoses going into the tank so the flow was in the other direction.  Cleaned out the heater core without having to remove it. 

Edited January 17 by RivNut (see edit history)

[cquisuila]

thank you !

 

yes > I hear a sound of air when I open the heating control

and i will reverse the hoses going to heat core

 

[RivNut]

36 minutes ago, cquisuila said:

thank you !

 

yes > I hear a sound of air when I open the heating control

and i will reverse the hoses going to heat core

 

You might not be able to do that on your Riviera.  One side of the heater core takes a 5/8” hose, the other side takes a 3/4” hose.  My car was a 1997 Chrysler JXi with a V6.  Probably all metric and the same size hoses.