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1955 Buick low oil pressure?


old-tank

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I wasn't mounting wheels 70 years ago, but it was 65 years ago. The first time I did I had a better understanding of esthetics that mechanics. My Dad pointed out that the taper of the lug nut went toward the wheel, not outward to create a pleasing look as I had thought.

 

65 years ago I was only mounting steel wheels. The steel for both was either from a Detroit or Pittsburgh foundry and samples were dipped off the furnace to adjust the proper carbon content. The lug nuts were tapered and I don't remember any shouldered or flat base ones on cars I worked on. That's the tried and true method that may not be true anymore with varying alloys, sources, and quality or all the interrelated components. I will consider all current instructions and generally used then with my discretion.

 

I do like the long reach of the lug nut dedicated torque wrench. I used it yesterday standing erect. And "I" don't used an impact wrench on the plastic wheel cover nuts.

 

I also do my own oil changes and really don't miss the smell of oil burning off my exhaust manifold at the first stop light I come to. I had it done by others a couple of times. I think they advertised and 17 bump oil change. As I understood it the service manager was paid a base plus commission on the bumps above the original service request. Although I do miss some of the comical bump spiel I have heard.

 

Hmm, I always changed my own oil on the BMW. I wonder if they called it bump spiel or bump sprecht in those shops.

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5 hours ago, Machine Gun said:

I do. And your point is...?

Was just remembering how some oil changers used to screw the filters on so tight that an air ratchet was needed to remove them, rather than oil the rubber gasket and then tighten the filter the additional 1/2-3/4 turn past contact to tighten them.  When I started doing my own oil changes, I bought the band wrench our service station guy used with no issues.  Didn't work for me.  Ended up stabbing the filter with a screwdriver several times before it broke loose.  Got a good end-cap wrench after that!

 

But normally, you wouldn't be doing an oil filter change on the side of the road.

 

Enjoy!

NTX5467

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19 hours ago, NTX5467 said:

Was just remembering how some oil changers used to screw the filters on so tight that an air ratchet was needed to remove them, rather than oil the rubber gasket and then tighten the filter the additional 1/2-3/4 turn past contact to tighten them.  When I started doing my own oil changes, I bought the band wrench our service station guy used with no issues.  Didn't work for me.  Ended up stabbing the filter with a screwdriver several times before it broke loose.  Got a good end-cap wrench after that!

 

But normally, you wouldn't be doing an oil filter change on the side of the road.

 

Enjoy!

NTX5467

Yeah, most of us have been there at some point. On rare occasions I'll have my trusted wrench do an oil change for me, but most times I do it myself on all our cars. Quick lube places are very convenient and reasonably priced but let's face it, not many master mechanics work there. Pretty sad when something as simple as an oil change needs supervision.

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Previously I described how a decent mechanic caused a Exxon Valdez's type experience by improper oil filter installation on Annie.  Way before that I took the GS to an oil change place that tried to sell me on front spring installation to cure the "spring squeak".  I asked what spring squeak was, after all, the deteriorated control arm bushing was visible. So they had the guy in the pit observe the suspension while the confident bumper dude stood on top and bounced the car. Sure enough, the faceless voice down under says, "yep spring squeak"...I politely declined that service and went back to doing my own oil changes. 

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When I got my first fwd car (a 2000 Impala in 2007 or so), that was "new territory" so I started going to a Firestone place a friend and former parts customer was running.  That was good, even if i was not a fan of the oil brand they used.  I figured it was "good enough".  Later, gravitated back to the dealership I worked at.  As I neared retirement, I gravitated toward a new Valvoline Oil Change location in town.  They had a $15.00 coupon on the back of some Albertson's and WalMart cash register receipts, which put things at $55.00 for their mid-level oil change (Valv High-Mileage "red bottle" oil).  That still works.  Then I started to get discount cards from them in the mail.  I later discovered they also have AARP discounts.  Looks like that's where I'll stay for a while.

 

They have a set procedure to do their oil changes.  With the main person calling out the filter number and oil to the person below.  Plus the amount of torque for the drain plug.  Seems to work well.

 

Last time I was in, they somehow got the impression it was time for a new air filter element, although I had not approved such OR was asked about it.  I let them do it anyway as it had been a while.  One of the top-side guys was excited that underhood, my car was similar to his later-model Impala.  So I figured he knew how to take things apart.  Things were good.  The car ran better, yet after decelerating down the off-ramp, the engine stopped, but quickly re-started.  Seems he did not get the rubber duct seated all the say onto the throttle body.  Hence, less air going through the mass air flow sensor.  Engine thought it had stopped when it didn't.  I decoded the code and then discovered what had happened.  I repositioned the duct so all air went through the MAF and all was great again.

 

KEY thing is that you have to know the limitations of which ever repair shop you might choose to use.  Not being the guinea pig for their learning curve.  Now as always.  Valvoline seem to get around some of this with "procedures" rather than otherwise.

 

Enjoy!

NTX5467

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On 3/28/2024 at 10:31 AM, NTX5467 said:

KEY thing is that you have to know the limitations of which ever repair shop you might choose to use.  Not being the guinea pig for their learning curve.  Now as always.  Valvoline seem to get around some of this with "procedures" rather than otherwise.

When I first started my business a client told me I was promoting the ideas of this book.

image.jpeg.db19e7ad1bc0bf287125578d5802a181.jpeg  https://atulgawande.com/book/the-checklist-manifesto/

 

It is a great read, especially for those old enough to be spending more time with medical institutions. My application is in building operations and it is an incredibly hard sell.

 

We had a Valvoline oil change facility in our town at one time. I was impressed with the upper and lower floors and the grates. I went there once but still preferred my own oil change process.

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If I wanted to go to the dealer, I would have to make an appointment (sometimes two weeks in advance!).  At Valvoline, I can drive up without such.  Might have to wait for others in front to get finished, though, which is fine.  If I see two cars already there, I can come back later.  They also want to check tire pressures (on a hot tire), battery, wiper blades, and such.  I decline those things as if they were not good, I could not have gotten there.  I also suspect the "workers" might change from time to time, too.  I feel their products are a bit higher-priced, but that is to be expected, which is the reason for the discount coupons.  I know what oil costs at WalMart, plus a filter, too.  Then figure in the hassle of dealing with the old oil and such.  With the discount, it all works for me.  If they wree not there, I'd either be at Firestone, Goodyear, or a private shop that does oil changes (mostly).

 

Plus later formulations of their oil are supposed to have more Moly in them, compared to other brands and earlier times.  The engines sound better on it than the GM oil that used to be in them.

 

Whatever works,

NTX5467

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Something that I am not understanding.  The air conditioning compressor which is a 1955 general motors A5 leaks refrigerant.  I pulled a vacuum and it holds overnight and you can't get any better than that.  Add some refrigerant and I'm getting a leak at the front.  That is after changing the seal and o-rings twice.  It seems that pulling a vacuum would leak first since it's trying to pull in relatively small molecules like nitrogen and oxygen whereas the pressure with the refrigerant is large complex molecules which would leak less.

It probably leaking when it's just sitting since when the compressor is in service the seal area is under a vacuum.  I didn't have this much problem years ago when I couldn't find the right o-rings.  I just cut and glued them with super glue and it all worked.

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Could the shaft be worn down just enough to allow a leak?  My best guess if multiple o ring replacements aren't working.  But you have probably already checked this. 😀

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Or, is there enough bearing wear to allow the shaft to 'wobble' more than the seal can handle?  Will it hold indefinitely (a week or two?) if just sitting idle?  Could the leak only occurring while the shaft is turning?

 

I'm struggling with a similar situation on my wife's Allante'.  It holds statically, but needs to be topped-off after a month or two of use.  Mine may simply be a worn shaft seal; I think need to add some dye...

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(If an old car is "Old enough to smoke", might the a/c compressor be "Old enough to covertly and uncontrollably expel gasses"?)

 

Perhaps the shaft wear might be the issue?  Or did the super-glue formulation change?

 

NTX5467

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Could be because there will be roughly 30-40 psi of refrigerant pressure just sitting there, versus something less than 14.7 psi of atmosphere when you pull a vacuum.

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2 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

In the picture with the seal pressed into the housing, was that damage or deformation of the seal at the two o'clock position?

Probably oil on the seal there.

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