Elpad Posted April 15 Author Share Posted April 15 Have not fix the rag top pivot bolt issue yet but using and showing a covered Gypsy 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elpad Posted April 15 Author Share Posted April 15 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elpad Posted April 15 Author Share Posted April 15 9 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted April 15 Share Posted April 15 On 4/8/2024 at 8:04 PM, Elpad said: This is the picture of the kit provided by Old Tank that did a research for me, looks like the bolt is in package #4. He also sent me a diagram and the bolt part number. Thanks Willy I would think that if you contact the vendor who provides the full kit, they will sell you that one bolt separately. Your award-winning Buick looks great, as usual! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elpad Posted April 16 Author Share Posted April 16 (edited) 23 hours ago, neil morse said: I would think that if you contact the vendor who provides the full kit, they will sell you that one bolt separately. Your award-winning Buick looks great, as usual! Long time customer. This was their answer Edited April 16 by Elpad (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 Wow, that's pretty sad. I would try McMaster-Carr. https://www.mcmaster.com/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 Ask them who the manufacturer is. Bwahahaha! When I restored the top I could not find that part so I had it zinc-plated. Like all the other parts on that convertible it was rusty and the plating process involves soaking in hydrochloric acid and maybe hydrogen embrittlement weakened the thing. Search hex head shoulder bolts. You will need all the dimensions if you call somebody. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elpad Posted April 17 Author Share Posted April 17 I just received a good set of left hand drill bits and extractors, just can’t find the time to start working on it. As I mentioned to Willie, I will need some help to guide the top straight down without any misalignment and clear the bracket with the broken bolt piece so I can begin extracting (ha! this sound like a dental procedure). Once get the stud out, I will begin the shoulder pivot bolt search. Willie, that was a message question through 😈Bay and they warn of dealing outside their platform, I will probably call them to find who the manufacturer is. Keep you all posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted April 17 Share Posted April 17 I'll throw @Bhigdog under the bus here! I think he also has a '55 Century soft-top as well, so maybe he can identify the exact bolt that you need. I'll go further and say that he also has the wherewithal to fabricate a replacement if he has the opportunity and time to spend. Maybe you can PM him and at least get the details on what the bolt needs to look like, assuming his car is readily accessible. Sorry, Bob - feel free to tell me to go and "mind my own business"! -Tim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted April 17 Share Posted April 17 (edited) 7 hours ago, EmTee said: I'll throw @Bhigdog under the bus here! I think he also has a '55 Century soft-top as well, so maybe he can identify the exact bolt that you need. I'll go further and say that he also has the wherewithal to fabricate a replacement if he has the opportunity and time to spend. Maybe you can PM him and at least get the details on what the bolt needs to look like, assuming his car is readily accessible. Sorry, Bob - feel free to tell me to go and "mind my own business"! -Tim I do still have my 66C. My top was totally rusted and falling apart and I made quite a few of the fasteners and bolts. The chromed ones I used stainless steel and polished them. I also had to make the shoulder bolts you broke. Unless you can find the ones that fell off you will also need a wave washer and an internal tooth 3/8 lock washer, available from McMaster. Also a low profile 3/8-24 nut, easy enough to make. Let me know if I can help.............Bob Edited April 17 by Bhigdog (see edit history) 1 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted April 18 Share Posted April 18 Cars isn't going to break apart a pre-made kit for a few bolts, and I don't blame them for it. Especially if it's and expensive kit like that. I would contact them directly, not through ebay, and see if they will let you know who the manufacturer is. McMaster Carr is a good place to look for those fasteners if you want to dig for yourself. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted April 19 Share Posted April 19 10 hours ago, Smartin said: McMaster Carr is a good place to look for those fasteners if you want to dig for yourself. Nope. Pretty much a specialty fastener. Not too hard to dupicate though. What was once made by the hand of man can again be made by the hand of man......bob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elpad Posted April 19 Author Share Posted April 19 On 4/17/2024 at 9:07 AM, Bhigdog said: I do still have my 66C. My top was totally rusted and falling apart and I made quite a few of the fasteners and bolts. The chromed ones I used stainless steel and polished them. I also had to make the shoulder bolts you broke. Unless you can find the ones that fell off you will also need a wave washer and an internal tooth 3/8 lock washer, available from McMaster. Also a low profile 3/8-24 nut, easy enough to make. Let me know if I can help.............Bob Did you made your own pivot shoulder bolts yourself or did you have someone make them? The diagram Willie (Old Tank) provided calls for a 3/8-24 X 1.25 in length if you use the washers and nut but again the broken bolt had the wave washer but there is no lock washer or nut, not even on the other side. Looks like the rear rail inner bracket is threaded and not a smooth hole that accomodates a bolt and nut configuration. I can feel the tip of the threaded bolt on the passenger (unbroken) bolt. Willie said that there could be an early and later version of this configuration. I do not want to remove the good bolt because I don't know if a misalignment of the top could occur. I think I will drill out the broken piece and then go from there. Again thanks for the info and let me know who made these shoulder bolts for you. Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elpad Posted April 19 Author Share Posted April 19 30 minutes ago, Bhigdog said: Nope. Pretty much a specialty fastener. Not too hard to dupicate though. What was once made by the hand of man can again be made by the hand of man......bob I would check them out....sounds like a Chinese proverb! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elpad Posted April 19 Author Share Posted April 19 11 hours ago, Smartin said: Cars isn't going to break apart a pre-made kit for a few bolts, and I don't blame them for it. Especially if it's and expensive kit like that. I would contact them directly, not through ebay, and see if they will let you know who the manufacturer is. McMaster Carr is a good place to look for those fasteners if you want to dig for yourself. I will, Thanks Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted April 19 Share Posted April 19 7 minutes ago, Elpad said: Did you made your own pivot shoulder bolts yourself or did you have someone make them? The diagram Willie (Old Tank) provided calls for a 3/8-24 X 1.25 in length if you use the washers and nut but again the broken bolt had the wave washer but there is no lock washer or nut, not even on the other side. Looks like the rear rail inner bracket is threaded and not a smooth hole that accomodates a bolt and nut configuration. I can feel the tip of the threaded bolt on the passenger (unbroken) bolt. Willie said that there could be an early and later version of this configuration. I do not want to remove the good bolt because I don't know if a misalignment of the top could occur. I think I will drill out the broken piece and then go from there. Again thanks for the info and let me know who made these shoulder bolts for you. Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted April 19 Share Posted April 19 (edited) First. I made them. Second. I can,t say for sure but i beleive the shoulder bolt threads into the rail but the bolt threads are long enough to allow for a low profile nut and lock washer. That would prevent the shoulder bolt from backing out. If you can provide the bolt and broken off piece or a well dimensioned drawing i could make them for you. the parts book calls for a lock washer and nut. I personaly would be comfortable with no lock nut but using lock tite and monotoring the bolt for backing out over time. .....bob Edited April 19 by Bhigdog (see edit history) 2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elpad Posted April 19 Author Share Posted April 19 Thanks Bob for the offer, if I can take you on that I would gladly compensate whatever the cost and your time. I will be removing the broken piece next week and will send to you once you give me directions, guess we can do this through private message. The book call for the bolt to be 1.25 in length and I guess then it can be installed with or without the nut but let me send you both piece thanks again to you and EmTee Al 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted April 19 Share Posted April 19 8 hours ago, Bhigdog said: If you can provide the bolt and broken off piece or a well dimensioned drawing i could make them for you. This ^^^ is precisely what makes the Buick community on this AACA forum the best! 3 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted April 19 Share Posted April 19 10 hours ago, Elpad said: Thanks Bob for the offer, if I can take you on that I would gladly compensate whatever the cost and your time. I will be removing the broken piece next week and will send to you once you give me directions, guess we can do this through private message. The book call for the bolt to be 1.25 in length and I guess then it can be installed with or without the nut but let me send you both piece thanks again to you and EmTee Al I ll pm you later today......bob 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted April 19 Share Posted April 19 Check Cadillac suppliers too. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted April 19 Share Posted April 19 3 hours ago, old-tank said: Check Cadillac suppliers too. And Pontiac, Olds, Chevy for that matter..................Bob 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted April 22 Share Posted April 22 On 4/18/2024 at 10:16 PM, Elpad said: McMaster Carr is a good place to look for those fasteners if you want to dig for yourself. Gents, ive found McMaster Carr exceptional with product offerings. Additionally, McMaster provides outstanding specifications. Their delivery is real fast. Eveyrthing about them is first. McMaster’s price for their goods reflects their goods and service. Turbinator 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elpad Posted April 26 Author Share Posted April 26 Here is the culprit!. Finally left handed drilled the broken piece out, started with a 1/8 that drilled thru and all the way to 1/4 that finally grabbed. Tedious job of slightly tilting and aligning the top to expose the bracket to be drilled. All with a little help of my friend (Not the Beatles) 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted April 26 Share Posted April 26 Good. You have an early body with the 1.250 length bolts. That is what I was going to make any way. I was trying to understand why the bolt broke the way it did. I believe the bolt backed out without you noticing and then flexed enough to part. I suggest you use a locking nut on the back side or at a minimum use lock tite............Bob 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elpad Posted April 27 Author Share Posted April 27 Will have to check the torque on the other side bolt to keep from breaking in the same manner. The bolt will have to be longer to use a nut and do not know if clearance will be a factor. Must likely will use locktite Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 I'll be sending the 1.250 Bolt. Both my early body 55 and 57 Buicks use a lock nut so I doubt you will have a clearance issue especially since that's what you have now. A simple visual inspection for bolt "back out" my not show a problem. The outside iron could be moving away from the inside shoulder with the bolt head still butted against the iron. I'm fairly sure that is what happened in your case resulting in the fracture. That may be why Buick went back to using a lock nut in 57........Bob 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 Might need a thin jam-nut. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 Palnuts (Pal Nuts) ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted April 29 Share Posted April 29 I'll need your USPS address via PM, Al. These are the 1.250" version. Easy to shorten if you desire. I made two so the heads would match side to side...........Bob 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 That is awesome @Bhigdog! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elpad Posted April 30 Author Share Posted April 30 23 hours ago, Bhigdog said: I'll need your USPS address via PM, Al. These are the 1.250" version. Easy to shorten if you desire. I made two so the heads would match side to side...........Bob Outstanding! just like the factory. Address sent via PM. Thanks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 (edited) 1 hour ago, Elpad said: Outstanding! just like the factory. Except mine are one piece..........😁...........Bob Edited April 30 by Bhigdog (see edit history) 1 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elpad Posted May 4 Author Share Posted May 4 Got them! Install scheduled for later next week with a little help of my friend. Thanks all involved once again. Keep you all posted 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elpad Posted May 17 Author Share Posted May 17 A quick update on the bolt situation. I finally had the time to install it. Apparently the bracket thread was damaged probably when trying to align the holes with the pin, dealing with the piston force. The bolt would not screw properly so I had had to drill and clear the old thread on the inner bracket. One of the new bolts thread was slightly damage when trying to align and install so I used the second bolt with a nut with locktite. The bolt shoulder rested perfectly on the outer bracket and the ragtop is working properly now. I will deal with the damaged thread on the spare bolt later on. We are dealing with an extreme heat wave lately so it is too hot to even go topless now. Never a dull moment!! 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elpad Posted May 17 Author Share Posted May 17 No top issues with this one 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted May 18 Share Posted May 18 Glad I sent along two of them. Guessing you could find someone locally with a 3/8-24 die and chase the damaged threads..........Bob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 On 5/16/2024 at 9:56 PM, Elpad said: We are dealing with an extreme heat wave lately so it is too hot to even go topless now. You must have opened the trunk since that's where I sent the Texas heat with you.🤣 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elpad Posted May 19 Author Share Posted May 19 12 hours ago, old-tank said: You must have opened the trunk since that's where I sent the Texas heat with you.🤣 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elpad Posted June 8 Author Share Posted June 8 So the AGM collector battery that was in the car finally gave up and wouldn’t take/hold a charge even with a steady AGM trickle charger that was designed to “repair” the cells. I did not want to spend $300 + in a similar battery just to be period correct and decided to go with a maintenance free group 31 commercial battery that would fit the tray and the hold down. The group 31 from NAPA, around $130, had the terminal posts in the middle, just the ground cable had to be relocated as well as new hold down bolts to fit perfectly. The group 31 was about an inch taller. I decided to remove all decals from the new battery to make it look better, luckily the “Delco” cell caps from the AGM would screw perfect on the group 31 making it look a bit better. Will figure some type of decal to hide the modern handle, I will still keep the old AGM for judge shows if need be. Needles to say that now I have truck cranking power. Sharing this just in case someone has the same situation. 3 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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