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My new to me 1955 Model 66C


Elpad

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On 4/8/2024 at 8:04 PM, Elpad said:

This is the picture of the kit provided by Old Tank that did a research for me, looks like the bolt is in package #4.  He also sent me a diagram and the bolt part number. Thanks Willy

IMG_6627.jpeg

I would think that if you contact the vendor who provides the full kit, they will sell you that one bolt separately.  Your award-winning Buick looks great, as usual!

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Posted (edited)
23 hours ago, neil morse said:

I would think that if you contact the vendor who provides the full kit, they will sell you that one bolt separately.  Your award-winning Buick looks great, as usual!

Long time customer. This was their answer

IMG_6747.png

Edited by Elpad (see edit history)
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Ask them who the manufacturer is. Bwahahaha!

When I restored the top I could not find that part so I had it zinc-plated.  Like all the other parts on that convertible it was rusty and the plating process involves soaking in hydrochloric acid and maybe hydrogen embrittlement weakened the thing.  

Search hex head shoulder bolts.  You will need all the dimensions if you call somebody.

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I just received a good set of left hand drill bits and extractors, just can’t find the time to start working on it. As I mentioned to Willie, I will need some help to guide the top straight down without any misalignment and clear the bracket with the broken bolt piece so I can begin extracting (ha! this sound like a dental  procedure). Once get the stud out, I will begin the shoulder pivot bolt search. Willie, that was a message question through 😈Bay and they warn of dealing outside their platform, I will probably call them to find who the manufacturer is. Keep you all posted.

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I'll throw @Bhigdog under the bus here!  ;)  I think he also has a '55 Century soft-top as well, so maybe he can identify the exact bolt that you need.  I'll go further and say that he also has the wherewithal to fabricate a replacement if he has the opportunity and time to spend.  Maybe you can PM him and at least get the details on what the bolt needs to look like, assuming his car is readily accessible.

 

Sorry, Bob - feel free to tell me to go and "mind my own business"!  :huh:

-Tim

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7 hours ago, EmTee said:

I'll throw @Bhigdog under the bus here!  ;)  I think he also has a '55 Century soft-top as well, so maybe he can identify the exact bolt that you need.  I'll go further and say that he also has the wherewithal to fabricate a replacement if he has the opportunity and time to spend.  Maybe you can PM him and at least get the details on what the bolt needs to look like, assuming his car is readily accessible.

 

Sorry, Bob - feel free to tell me to go and "mind my own business"!  :huh:

-Tim

I do still have my 66C. My top was totally rusted and falling apart and I made quite a few of the fasteners and bolts. The chromed ones I used stainless steel and polished them.  I also had to make the shoulder bolts you broke. Unless you can find the ones that fell off you will also need a wave washer and an internal tooth 3/8 lock washer, available from McMaster. Also a low profile 3/8-24 nut, easy enough to make. Let me know if I can help.............Bob

Edited by Bhigdog (see edit history)
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Cars isn't going to break apart a pre-made kit for a few bolts, and I don't blame them for it.  Especially if it's and expensive kit like that.  I would contact them directly, not through ebay, and see if they will let you know who the manufacturer is.

 

McMaster Carr is a good place to look for those fasteners if you want to dig for yourself.

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10 hours ago, Smartin said:

 

 

McMaster Carr is a good place to look for those fasteners if you want to dig for yourself.

Nope. Pretty much a specialty fastener. Not too hard to dupicate though. What was once made by the hand of man can again be made by the hand of man......bob

 

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On 4/17/2024 at 9:07 AM, Bhigdog said:

I do still have my 66C. My top was totally rusted and falling apart and I made quite a few of the fasteners and bolts. The chromed ones I used stainless steel and polished them.  I also had to make the shoulder bolts you broke. Unless you can find the ones that fell off you will also need a wave washer and an internal tooth 3/8 lock washer, available from McMaster. Also a low profile 3/8-24 nut, easy enough to make. Let me know if I can help.............Bob

Did you made your own pivot shoulder bolts yourself or did you have someone make them? The diagram Willie (Old Tank) provided calls for a 3/8-24 X 1.25 in length if you use the washers and nut but again the broken bolt had the wave washer but there is no lock washer or nut, not even on the other side. Looks like the rear rail inner bracket is threaded and not a smooth hole that accomodates a bolt and nut configuration. I can feel the tip of the threaded bolt on the passenger (unbroken) bolt. Willie said that there could be an early and later version of this configuration. I do not want to remove the good bolt because I don't know if a misalignment of the top could occur. I think I will drill out the broken piece and then go from there. Again thanks for the info and let me know who made these shoulder bolts for you.

Al

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30 minutes ago, Bhigdog said:

Nope. Pretty much a specialty fastener. Not too hard to dupicate though. What was once made by the hand of man can again be made by the hand of man......bob

 

I would check them out....sounds like a Chinese proverb!

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11 hours ago, Smartin said:

Cars isn't going to break apart a pre-made kit for a few bolts, and I don't blame them for it.  Especially if it's and expensive kit like that.  I would contact them directly, not through ebay, and see if they will let you know who the manufacturer is.

 

McMaster Carr is a good place to look for those fasteners if you want to dig for yourself.

I will, Thanks

Al

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7 minutes ago, Elpad said:

Did you made your own pivot shoulder bolts yourself or did you have someone make them? The diagram Willie (Old Tank) provided calls for a 3/8-24 X 1.25 in length if you use the washers and nut but again the broken bolt had the wave washer but there is no lock washer or nut, not even on the other side. Looks like the rear rail inner bracket is threaded and not a smooth hole that accomodates a bolt and nut configuration. I can feel the tip of the threaded bolt on the passenger (unbroken) bolt. Willie said that there could be an early and later version of this configuration. I do not want to remove the good bolt because I don't know if a misalignment of the top could occur. I think I will drill out the broken piece and then go from there. Again thanks for the info and let me know who made these shoulder bolts for you.

Al

 

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First.  I made them. Second. I can,t say for sure but i beleive the shoulder bolt threads into the rail but the bolt threads are long enough to allow for a low profile nut and lock washer. That would prevent the shoulder bolt from backing out. If you can provide the bolt and broken off piece or a well dimensioned drawing i could make them for you.

the parts book calls for a lock washer and nut. I personaly would be comfortable with no lock nut but using lock tite and monotoring the bolt for backing out over time. .....bob

Edited by Bhigdog (see edit history)
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Thanks Bob for the offer, if I can take you on that I would gladly compensate whatever the cost and your time. I will be removing the broken piece next week  and will send to you once you give me directions, guess we can do this through  private message. The book call for the bolt to be 1.25 in length and I guess then it can be installed with or without the nut but let me send you both piece

thanks again to you and EmTee 

Al

 

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8 hours ago, Bhigdog said:

If you can provide the bolt and broken off piece or a well dimensioned drawing i could make them for you.

This ^^^ is precisely what makes the Buick community on this AACA forum the best!  ;)

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10 hours ago, Elpad said:

Thanks Bob for the offer, if I can take you on that I would gladly compensate whatever the cost and your time. I will be removing the broken piece next week  and will send to you once you give me directions, guess we can do this through  private message. The book call for the bolt to be 1.25 in length and I guess then it can be installed with or without the nut but let me send you both piece

thanks again to you and EmTee 

Al

 

I ll pm you later today......bob

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On 4/18/2024 at 10:16 PM, Elpad said:

McMaster Carr is a good place to look for those fasteners if you want to dig for yourself.

Gents, ive found McMaster Carr exceptional with product offerings. Additionally, McMaster provides outstanding specifications. Their delivery is real fast. Eveyrthing about them is first. McMaster’s price for their goods reflects their goods and service.

Turbinator

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Here is the culprit!. Finally left handed drilled the broken piece out, started with a 1/8 that drilled thru and all the way to 1/4 that finally grabbed. Tedious job of slightly tilting and aligning the top to expose the bracket to be drilled. All with a little help of my friend (Not the Beatles)

IMG_6842.jpeg

IMG_6843.jpeg

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Good. You have an early body with the 1.250 length bolts. That is what I was going to make any way. I was trying to understand why the bolt broke the way it did. I believe the bolt backed out without you noticing and then flexed enough to part. I suggest you use a locking nut on the back side or at a minimum use lock tite............Bob

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Will have to check the torque on the other side bolt to keep from breaking in the same manner. The bolt will have to be longer to use a nut and do not know if clearance will be a factor. Must likely will use locktite 

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I'll be sending the 1.250 Bolt. Both my early body 55 and 57 Buicks use a lock nut so I doubt you will have a clearance issue especially since that's what you have now. A simple visual inspection for bolt "back out" my not show a problem. The outside iron could be moving away from the inside shoulder with the bolt head still butted against the iron. I'm fairly sure that is what happened in your case resulting in the fracture. That may be why Buick went back to using a lock nut in 57........Bob

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I'll need your USPS address via PM, Al. These are the 1.250" version. Easy to shorten if you desire. I made two so the heads would match side to side...........Bobtopbolt.jpg.b75ac89b073e6f8f7a241caeb78e0e1f.jpg

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23 hours ago, Bhigdog said:

I'll need your USPS address via PM, Al. These are the 1.250" version. Easy to shorten if you desire. I made two so the heads would match side to side...........Bobtopbolt.jpg.b75ac89b073e6f8f7a241caeb78e0e1f.jpg

Outstanding! just like the factory. Address sent via PM. Thanks

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Got them!  Install scheduled for later next week with a little help of my friend. Thanks all involved once again. Keep you all posted

IMG_6984.jpeg

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  • 2 weeks later...

A quick update on the bolt situation. I finally had the time to install it. Apparently the bracket thread was damaged probably when trying to align the holes with the pin, dealing with the piston force. The bolt would not screw properly so I had had to drill and clear the old thread on the inner bracket. One of the new bolts thread was slightly damage when trying to align and install so I used the second bolt with a nut with locktite. The bolt shoulder rested perfectly on the outer bracket and the ragtop is working properly now. I will deal with the damaged thread on the spare bolt later on. We are dealing with an extreme heat wave lately so it is too hot to even go topless now. Never a dull moment!! 

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On 5/16/2024 at 9:56 PM, Elpad said:

We are dealing with an extreme heat wave lately so it is too hot to even go topless now.

You must have opened the trunk since that's where I sent the Texas heat with you.🤣

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12 hours ago, old-tank said:

You must have opened the trunk since that's where I sent the Texas heat with you.🤣

 

IMG_7108.jpeg

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