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Running lights as blinkers


Norman Biggs

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21 minutes ago, Norman Biggs said:

Can you use a seal beam light as a running lights and blinkers

What kind of car and would it be necessary to have them to get the car to pass a safety inspection requirement?

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The short answer is no. If you mean those lights mounted on the bumper, you might be able have one function or the other, but the sealed beam bulbs would probably wind up drawing way too much current for the flasher. You'd have to see how many watts they are. Some lights with a replaceable bulb would be more likely to work out. If you want 2 functions (like blinker+park or blinker+fog) you need a bulb with 2 filaments and a socket that can support 2 filaments.

 

 

Edited by Bloo (see edit history)
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Converted the incandescent fog lamps on my LaSalle into turn signals and rewired the stop lights in the rear for the same.
IMG_2137.jpg.5f8a8238e105cd34de9cf877cf56e3a9.jpgMost importantly, I wired in a Brake Lighter Bar in the rear.

I would suggest just using yellow bulbs in your bumper mounted fog lights. Below is what I had before and I think the fog lamps are a great improvement.

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Scott

Edited by Stude Light (see edit history)
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A simple but effective solution is using old motor cycle blinker lights. Often they are 6V so will work or change out the globes.

 

If wanting to be more glamorous find a pair or four period looking lamps at a Swapmeet or flea bay. Some simple brackets bolted through the bumper bar bracket bolts will provide a mounting.

 

Previous owners on my ‘38 Buick opted for motor cycle lamps which I detested as they looked like ….. motor cycle lamps.

 

After searching the swap meets found a nice pair of period lamps with chrome trim as a replacement that I used on the rear. Used yellow globes in these but for the front you could opt for white or yellow.

 

The fronts I used the existing park lamps but was thinking of adding a matching set of lamps to the front as well. Look much nicer. 
 

Just my two bobs worth

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

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Edited by rodneybeauchamp
Extra information and photo (see edit history)
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As discussed on a recent, similar forum exchange, what I believe works best is to use period fog lamps for front running lights/turn signals.  My 34 Plymouth PE sedan runs 1937 Super units with yellow bulbs behind yellow stock lenses--very bright and easy to see.

1934 Plym PE Sedan.jpg

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I have a similar set of period fog lamps (not sealed beam) wired as turn signals on the front my Model A, look  a lot better than the aftermarket turn signal lamps sold for such applications.  I use forward facing yellow LED bulbs which are nice and bright..."white" LED's are not full spectrum like an incandescent bulb, so if you choose to use LED bulbs you get better results when the color of the bulb matches the color of the lens.

 

Keith

 

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 Norman, If you just bought that Pontiac, the previous owner probably installed those running lights that are a sealed beam because the headlights lights that came with the car are useless for driving at night. The original lights were to show other drivers where you are, not for you to see 100" down the road.

 

 I know this as I owned a similar car ( at first I thought that was my car) and had to install the same lights in order to see the road.

 The sealed beams mounted in fog light fixtures are from a 66's GM dual headlight system.

 

 You might want to look for fender mounted side lights that came on a 38 Buick.

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Edited by R Walling (see edit history)
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IMG_4779.JPG.adcb3dc689d5afa4a36cd9bd3c58af69.JPGI have a 1930 DeSoto Rumble seat coupe that had a single 2 filament tail light for running and brake light. I added a second tail light in order to add signal lights. I installed 6v relays and a signal light flasher to use the single filament front fender lights as signal lights as well. Now when the running lights are on, the signal lights flash OFF, and when the running lights are off, the signal lights flash on. Tail lights work as normal for signaling. IMG_4932.JPG.df3561d9935dd975b3417e09a73213ac.JPG

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On my 1930 Packard I found and bought a pair of factory accessory driving lights for the front- they have shields on them from new to let the beam /light shine tows the curb ( ie ditch) I had them wired for directional signals - at the back I made brackets and mounted a pair of cowl lights from the 1920s and they are the directional light s there. My headlamps are fine to see with driving at night because the reflectors have been replated . Every thing is 6 volt bulb.

I did not attempt to add the directional lights to the fender parking lights nor the tail lights because adding extra wires there was to tight a fit.

Edited by Walt G (see edit history)
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Here's a method that worked great for me.  I used a one inch diamond hole saw and drilled a hole in the back of a glass seal beam.  Then I cut off the glass protrusions that the terminals used to connect to using a dremel circular diamond cut off blade.  Then the original filament fell into the seal beam and it didn't take much to shake it out.  Then I had to modify the backing flange of the new bulb socket assembly to fit around the bumps as seen in one of the pictures.  It was a very fast and simple procedure. I soldered a ground wire to the socket assembly.  If you look hard you can see the new bulb in the seal beam that is off centre.  But nobody has ever noticed the alteration.  If you chose this method, you might take some rough measurements to make sure you have enough room in your light pod.  

seal beam 1.jpg

seal beam 2.jpg

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On 8/6/2023 at 10:40 PM, rodneybeauchamp said:

A simple but effective solution is using old motor cycle blinker lights. Often they are 6V so will work or change out the globes.

Off-topic, but I love your sloper. 

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2 hours ago, dodge28 said:

What a talented guy and visionary too. Congratulations.   

Thank you very much.  You might have also noticed that the lights are actually spot lights.  The style that is mounted close to the A pillar and the rotation is controlled from the inside.  I came across a bunch of them in a box at a swap meet.  None of them were complete but I managed to piece a couple together.  Then I bent the long internal shaft at 90 degrees and did a bit of welding and used some JB Weld to keep it from rotating and then welded the opposite end of the shaft to the inside of the licence plate brackets.  

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