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Everything posted by ckowner

  1. ckowner

    30 Fuel gauge

    Looks like the DeSoto forum stalled at this one. Mars, the float has a small gear on the shaft that turns the variable resistor in the sending unit. You will have to measure the resistance with an ohm meter to see if it changes when it turns. Sounds like the resistor wire in your sending unit may be broken and touching ground. You will need a meter to find out what is going on. Can't fix these things by guessing
  2. Hi Patrick Payment received. Thank you! Rick
  3. This is one of a total 600 Canadian DeSoto production. Does any one know of another? Thanks Again and have a great day!
  4. After 49 years the car has actually come to a point of completion. My wife commented that the car was 40 years old when I bought it. That would be like getting a 1980 car today. When I picked up the DeSoto, it was actually considered to be an "old car" I took some pictures today of the completed project and will upload them for all to enjoy. Thanks for following along and all your great comments. Rick
  5. Some real progress has been made in the last few weeks. The luggage trunk has been painted, and all the hardware attached. I made a bracket to mount the third rumble seat step, which I had, onto the bumper bracket. The spare tire clamps have been painted and installed. Took it for about a 10 mile drive on Monday. Today it would not start!
  6. Hi there. The first DeSoto series "K" was basically a car body built around a wooden structure. It was the wood which held most of the body together. Door were lined with wood to hold the mechanisms, floor boards were wood, etc. In 1930 there was a transition where much of the wood structure was replaced with metal stampings. Doors and cowls were all steel, the trunk/rumble lid still had wood lining, floor boards on closed model cars were steel (except for the front removable section). The 1930 roadster still had all wood floorboards. The 1930 DeSoto CF bodies were called "mono piece" bodies. and were said to be all steel construction. I do not have all the details on the body building progress of Chrysler products, but I believe the big " all steel body" advertising came into being with the 1934 Airflow, where Chrysler showed one being rolled down an embankment and then driven away.
  7. ckowner

    Clum switch

    Hi Mars I have an inside shaft with a lever attached. It is the shaft with the horn wire going down the middle. :ooking at my 1930 DeSoto I believe that is the one you are looking for. I am not sure if the lever can be separated from the shaft. Have a look at the pictures with the tape measure. Rick VanOene
  8. One more challenge. The weather stripping profile for the trunk lid seal could not be found. I even sent a sample of the original to Steele Rubber. They supplied me with 6' of a similar profile, but smaller. It turned out to be too small on it's own. Today I found a garage roll up door bottom seal which was made of the same rubber. I cut a strip off and with the help of JB WELD super glue, came close to the profile I need
  9. Got a call from the foundry today. The casting of my side mount wheel clamp was finished. A perfect copy of the one I have. I was impressed and soooo happy! Another thing completed. I will be doing some painting and then assembly. The trunk has been stripped of all the hardware and has gone in for paint. My decision was to do the same color as the car. I will be painting the inside with a good durable black marine enamel.
  10. Picked up the handles from the shoe maker. 1/4" thick, 2 layers sewn together. Made the stainless straps and mounted the handles. Now it can be carried when removed from the car.
  11. These are SOLD and have been shipped
  12. ckowner

    Clum switch

    Hi Mars Here are the 2 pages from my DeSoto 6 book. I would imagine that the wiring is the same on the CK6 and the CF8 except for the distributor servicing 8 spark plugs. The only way to test the clum switch is with a volt meter and an ohm meter and some understanding of basic electricity. My car has dual filament bulbs in the headlights, and both filaments have the same candle power output. It didn't make sense to me, so I rewired the headlights so that if I wanted high beam, both filaments came on. The clum switches are very basic, and unless they are broken or full of steering box grease, there is not much that can go wrong with them. Rick
  13. Hi Patrick I sent you a PM with pictures of the packaged carbs and shipping cost. Waiting to hear from you regards Rick
  14. I have multiple updraft carbs for sale. May be of good use to someone. (1) Holley aluminum body, 2 5/8" c-c on bolts (2) Zenith cast body, 2 3/4" c-c on bolts (3) Zenith cast body, 2 3/4" c-c on bolts (4) Zenith cast body, 2 3/4" c-c on bolts cross mount (5) Marvel cast body, 2 5/8" c-c on bolts (6) Zenith aluminum body, 2 3/8" diagonal mount (early chev?) All carbs appear complete and throttle & chokes are free. Not sure of each application $40.00 each plus shipping or buy them all for $160.00 plus shipping
  15. Clearing out some excess parts. I have what I believe to be side mount hardware for a 1928 or 1929 Chrysler. (1) One set is complete with the fire wall mounting brackets. May be missing the wheel clamp. $150.00 plus shipping. (2) One set of 28/29 side mount posts with support brackets only. $100.00 plus shipping. (3) 1930 & 31? side mount posts as shown. One has frame mount. $100.00 plus shipping (4) 1930/31 DeSoto/Chrysler/Plymouth rear spare tire support $25.00 plus shipping
  16. I am in the process of having a new clamp cast. Should be ready in about 2 weeks. As for the locks and cylinders, I will stick with what I have for now. The only hope of getting a replacement lock/pin, would be if some would show up in an old automotive warehouse parts cache. Thanks for your help.
  17. Hi Tom Thanks for the pictures. Are any of those parts for sale? or are they some of your file pictures? regards Rick
  18. Not looking anymore. Got creative. See my posting under my restorations. Thanks
  19. I am in the process of having some leather handles made for the steamer car trunk so that is can actually be carried when removed from the car. Then it will have to be disassembled and painted. I will share pictures when completed. In the mean time I am still in need of on wheel clamp as shown. Part# 72009. I will see if a reproduction can be machine or cast, since I do have one to copy
  20. These are the finished products. I installed some heat shrink tubing over the bare metal parts, and put thread locker on the threads that were intended to not come apart. The old fastening rivets in the cast were drilled out, and since the hole were too big to thread to !/4" , I cut the heads off of 1/4" stainless bolts and epoxied the studs in the hole for mounting. I hope the purist approve of my solution, but I could not think of another practical solution Enjoy! Rick VanOene 1930 DeSoto CK6 rumble seat coupe (Canadian)