ckowner

A lot of good advice has been offered. Looking back, I would suggest to get a starter project that is near complete. I have a 1930 DeSoto CK coupe that was picked up in 1971. Very incomplete and low production numbers. It took many years of searching, letter writing, and finally the internet and ebay. Lots of patience, determination finally money will get it done. Many parts can be made and substituted. That is great for a personal hobby, but maybe not great in the eyes of perfectionists.

Thanks for the compliments Marc. I have been complimented on my patience, but somehow I never felt that myself. It was always a challenge to get to the next step. Rick

One more picture with measurement

There is no Model # stamped on the top. The space is blank. The 1929 Chrysler 65 was a large 6 cylinder car. The float and mechanism are good.

Attached are some pictures of a 1929 Chrysler 65 Stewart vacuum tank which I will sell. $130.00 plus shipping from Canada

I was under the impression that the occasional drip from the water pump shaft was intended as some lubrication.

The reason your fuse probably blew is because the fuse holder is held by a rivet to the back of the ammeter. the connection here is very poor and heats up. I bypassed mine with a modern fuse holder. Nothing worse than a fire because of electrical failure. everything in the car on 1-30A fuse with a lot of #18 AWG wire (small braid)

If you lost the horn and the lights, the problem would not be in the clum switch. The horn wire and the power for the lights are joined on terminal #1 of the clum switch. That is where you check for power. From #1 terminal the horn wire goes to the horn and then to the horn button through the steering tube. when the horn button is pushed the circuit is completed to ground. It is interesting that the wiring schematic in the 1930 DeSoto handbook appears to be incorrect since the tail light always has power from terminal 1 and the parking lights work through the clum switch on terminal 3 which is next to terminal 1. Order looking down the steering column from right to left. 1-3-2-4-6-5. I also don't quite understand the thinking between the high and low beam in the head lights. My 1930 DeSoto CK had a foot button installed when I got it in 1971. The wiring diagram on the clum switch shows the selection between filament high or low. The Mazda lamps which I have have 2 similar filaments, so I wired the car with the floor button and the clum switch to activate 1 or 2 filaments simultaneously. We also fabricated a mirror image of the tail light bracket to allow for dual brake lights and signal lights also using the single filament parking lights on the fenders. Some fancy 6 volt relay work! All the best Rick VanOene 1930 CK6 coupe owner

Is it the same as a 1930 CK transmission? If so, I have one. Rick

I have a 1930 DeSoto CK and the dash is the body color with the trim painted in a wood grain.

I bought a set for my 1930 DeSoto CK from Steeles. Would be the same as the 1930 Chrysler. I just wanted to have the proper finished look on the floor. Very pricey! But sometimes a person just has to ignore the cost. I also paid $85 dollars for a 6 page original sales brochure because it was the only official picture (artist conception) of a 1930 DeSoto CK rumble seat coupe with dual side mounts that I have ever been able to find. Now I am happy to have it.

Thank you for the info. What would be the proper screen to buy and the wire gauge. I would prefer the square running diagonally. Also being in Canada, I am not sure whether I can get this shipped from McMaster-Carr

I am looking to build a rock screen for my 1930 DeSoto CK radiator. Can anyone help me source the (3/8" x 3/8" ?) stainless steel crimped mesh used for this application? Thank you

I have a 1930 DeSoto CK and I used a thermostat from a mopar v8 that was the same over all size. I drilled a few 1/4"s in the disc around the thermostat to allow for minimal coolant flow to prevent the radiator from overflowing when the thermostat finally opens. Works great!

My opinion is that the removal of the transmission is the best way to go. Removing the whole driveline as a unit becomes problematic because the transmission on a Chrysler 65 is also the bell housing and has the pedal assembly attached as well. The transmission has the rear engine mounts attached and could be left in the car, but clutch realignment may be a problem.

I have a vacuum tank from a 29 chrysler 65 in fairly nice condition. Let me know if you are interested.

I installed seat belts in my 1930 DeSoto CK as well. I made special 1/8" plates (approximately 4"x 6") with the edges slightly curved up to prevent the plates from opening up the floor board like a can opener in the event of a collision. The outer belts were all bolted through the floor boards and frame rails. Although seat belts are not mandatory in British Columbia (Canada) if the car did not come equipped with them, it is mandatory to have children buckled in. Now they can ride with grampa

The paint is a urethane enamel, base/clear. PPG brown. FBCH209140. PPG has 2 color chips almost identical, but one contains yellow pigment and one contains red pigment. That changes the way it looks with other colors. Certains reds, like the wheels look great with this color and others do not. Hope this helps. Years ago I thought I would paint the chocolate/yellow colors that were common, but this color is not trendy and receives many compliments.A little more exciting than dark blue and black. My original colors as well,

Hi I do have a water pump housing for a CM6. The part number on it is 307603-3. I used the impeller from it to rebuild another pump. It is impossible to remove the impeller from the shaft by pressing it. The only way is to machine the shaft inside the impeller on a lathe. I will clean it up. Attached are some pictures I took this evening. Let me know if it what you want. I was going to keep it as a spare, but would part with it. regards Rick VanOene

Have a look at the restoration forum to see how I did the insert on my 1930 DeSoto CK.. Once the insert is finished, I used black marine sealant and fastened the whole thing down from the inside of the car. Perfect seal. Rick VanOene

I had a set machined many years ago and just had them case hardened. A machine shop should be able to do this for you.

One final posting on the upholstery. After sitting on the completed front seat I found it far too soft, so I proceeded to cut high quality foam and fill all the coils with foam. The burlap was then re installed and the seats were taken to an upholstery shop. The rumble seat was done in a beautiful high quality leather that was inherited from my fathers bookbinding hobby. Hope you all enjoy the pictures!

The next part in the upholstery process was the seats. I had a rumble back spring and the seat spring for the front. Both springs were in very poor condition. After taking a bed mattress apart for the coil springs, as well as two other car seats which were salvaged, we bent new connecting metal strips and proceeded to build new seat springs.

It has been some time since progress was shared. After the roof insert was finished, I did some studying how head liner was installed. The fabric was purchased from Decorative Fabrics Direct. It is a real angora wool mohair and a perfect color match to the paint. I laid out the material for the head liner with pins and chalk, and my daughter in law did the sewing for me. The door panels were a challenge I took on myself. I laminated the backing material, the padding, and the mohair with spray adhesive. I figured I could do the sewing myself with a little kick start on the sewing machine. The results were surprising!

Hi Per Nice car. I have a 1930 DeSoto CK rumble seat coupe. You can see some of my progress pictures in the restoration section of this forum. I have two clum switches. One is a #8821 with 5 terminals which has been taken apart. These switches are totally re build able. They just need to be cleaned and put back together if there are no broken parts. The other switch I have is a clum 9150 (in tact) like the picture Keiser posted. If you are interested maybe we can work something out. Send me a PM. I also have 8 of the hubcaps that you are looking for. They all need a certain amount of restoration. One is a steel stamped one, the others all have the nickel plated brass skins. I can send you some pictures. regards Rick Vanoene