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Stuck broken valve


Mpgp1999

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     When the pistons are up vacuum around the cylinders.  Oil the cylinders with a light oil, (ATF or thinner), when the pistons are down.  Keep turning the engine, vacuuming, wiping and oiling until the the pistons stop leaving a muddy trail.

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  • 3 weeks later...
5 hours ago, Mpgp1999 said:

I got the head back on and tried the first start. It seemed to only run off the starter at the maximum retard.  The compression is 55 to 60.

You start it at full retard and advance after it starts. Check fuel supply. use the priming cup if needed to start. 

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I have got the motor to run an entire bowl of fuel. It is starting to get hot. Slowly the rpms are picking up.  I got it to run for a moment without the stater. I’m getting close.  

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1 hour ago, Machinist_Bill said:

No RPM's, or slow to get RPM's, might be a mouse nest or a collapsed muffler in the exhaust system. Just a thought......

Extremely likely. I have disconnected the spark lever and I can move the distributor more. It likes maximum counter clockwise on the dist. I’m going to try using a known good carb. I didn’t touch it. I should assume it needs cleaning. It only start with wide open throttle. 

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Not only is there a rats nest in the muffler it also has tons of rust in the entire exhaust. I got the motor to run without the starter but low rpm’s. I think the valves are opening too soon. I adjusted them to .008” cold. I’m not able to adjust the rotor. It is tight with out the locking nut. 

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14 hours ago, Mpgp1999 said:

Not only is there a rats nest in the muffler it also has tons of rust in the entire exhaust. I got the motor to run without the starter but low rpm’s. I think the valves are opening too soon. I adjusted them to .008” cold. I’m not able to adjust the rotor. It is tight with out the locking nut. 

Logic would suggest that corrosion causing blockages and binding / seizure of moving parts due to years of dis-use would cause more damage when forced to move by mechanical means without proper cleaning / lubricating / replacement of worn or unserviceable parts.

I shudder to think how the bearings both main and big end are faring with the initial dry start. I guess there would be some sludge build up in the oil lines which will hasten the inevitable demise.

 

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2 hours ago, Minibago said:

Logic would suggest that corrosion causing blockages and binding / seizure of moving parts due to years of dis-use would cause more damage when forced to move by mechanical means without proper cleaning / lubricating / replacement of worn or unserviceable parts.

I shudder to think how the bearings both main and big end are faring with the initial dry start. I guess there would be some sludge build up in the oil lines which will hasten the inevitable demise.

 

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When I drained the oil, it was used in dirty, but still tacky. I filled the crankcase to the brim with kerosene, and turned it over with the crank.  Then I primed everything with the oil until I was able to see pressure on the gauge.  

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1 hour ago, Mpgp1999 said:

When I drained the oil, it was used in dirty, but still tacky. I filled the crankcase to the brim with kerosene, and turned it over with the crank.  Then I primed everything with the oil until I was able to see pressure on the gauge.  


Well, let us explore this some more.

Having no filter the oil contaminants continue to mix with the oil coating the various passages and settling to the bottom of the sump as a fairly thick sludge, even a good scrub with kerosene and a stiff brush will not remove this contamination without a great deal of effort so a spin around the oil ways by rotating the engine by hand is frankly of little use.

I am interested to know how you managed to remove all the kerosene from the sump so as not to contaminate the new oil?

Some particles of contamination may well have been dislodged in this exercise which is a further worry as the holes used in the feed rail to lubricate the camshaft and the lower cylinder bores are very small so a blockage would be quite detrimental. 
Oil pressure indication on the gauge will only show that the pump is pumping and oil is flowing into the block.

 

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I have a leak in the radiator. I need to solder it up. The exhaust is plugged I am trying to remove the exhaust flange nut. I used some heat are penetrating oil. No luck. At the moment I am laid up in bed. 

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11 hours ago, Mpgp1999 said:

I am trying to remove the exhaust flange nut. I

     You should buy or make the proper wrench.  A pipe wrench won't do it.  The manifold is more precious than the nut so get one of those when you order the wrench.  Split the old nut with a cut off wheel to avoid having to source a replacement manifold. 

     That's the advice I have to give after ruining a usable manifold.

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The engine blew a piece of head gasket out. It is leaking compression and water. I ordered a new gasket. It’s nice weather and I’m feeling better. I want to drive her. I want to put some miles on her to work out any bugs before the meet. 

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On 3/11/2023 at 5:03 PM, Minibago said:

To get the head gasket to seal it is normal engineering practice to have the top of the block machined flat, then have the head machined flat.

 

Using a file to remove the gouge?

 

ABSOLUTELY NOT!!!!!!

Been there.

Page2.

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On 4/12/2023 at 9:48 PM, Mpgp1999 said:

I plan to clean everything as well as I can. I try to only use tools and methods that are period correct. I.e. original tools, no rtv and no Phillips.
 

I milled the head at home. I used sandpaper taped to glass and I shaved the head. I used dykem and sanded until there was no blue. The head was fairly flat to begin with. 

Checked.

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This car shouldn’t really be travelling on a main road. It’s obvious it was bought as a parts car to fix your one that was crashed. There appears to be more air than metal in places. IMG_2663.jpeg.8b3314277b3b645d05a408ba59ac5349.jpegI just think you could be endangering others taking that on the road. 

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1 hour ago, Mattml430 said:

This car shouldn’t really be travelling on a main road. It’s obvious it was bought as a parts car to fix your one that was crashed. There appears to be more air than metal in places. IMG_2663.jpeg.8b3314277b3b645d05a408ba59ac5349.jpegI just think you could be endangering others taking that on the road. 

I understand that. This will be a show car. Driven only to and from local shows. Or trailered. I have a 35 ford that I use very often. I put 5K on it since last year. 
 

The original intent was a parts car. It’s so original I couldn’t stand to not get her to run even if for one last time. I wanted a to challenge myself. I have put little to no money towards this. I finally broke down and got a head gasket. That’s why I have been doing things a different way. If this wax my other dodge I would have done things “proper” or different. Like using a machine shop sandblasting etc…

 

I’d really love to drive this car and share it. 

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3 hours ago, Mpgp1999 said:

I understand that. This will be a show car. Driven only to and from local shows. Or trailered. I have a 35 ford that I use very often. I put 5K on it since last year. 
 

The original intent was a parts car. It’s so original I couldn’t stand to not get her to run even if for one last time. I wanted a to challenge myself. I have put little to no money towards this. I finally broke down and got a head gasket. That’s why I have been doing things a different way. If this wax my other dodge I would have done things “proper” or different. Like using a machine shop sandblasting etc…

 

I’d really love to drive this car and share it. 


What you have shared so far is not anything I would be proud to share with fellow enthusiasts. 
Asking for help and then ignoring the advice while continuing to ask is beyond my comprehension.

It is a “No” from me.

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I feel accomplished with this vehicle. I’ve taken something that was beyond the grave and put no parts or money into it and got it running and driving.  I think that’s a testament to how things were built back then. Fear not I won’t be posting anymore about this vehicle so I won’t upset anyone by doing it the “wrong” way. 
 

Thank you to all who posted to this thread. I learned much from this thread. 

Edited by Mpgp1999 (see edit history)
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For those wondering on my other dodge I pulled the motor and sent it to a machine shop to be milled and have valve seats put it. New guides etc…

compression is 65 psi. I’m doing an off frame restoration with safety glass and seat belts. I just finished rebuilding the trans.  This will take me a few years to complete. As I progress more I will post in a new topic. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/1/2023 at 4:13 PM, old car fan said:

Have you found  all the body parts, I assume this is the one that got hit?

I am trying to use as many parts from the original car. I am going to try to straighten my frame. I was able to find a collision repair book from the 20s. It states where to add heat, and where to cold work the metal. With the upcoming meets and shows I have been working on my other cars. This will be a winter project.  

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