hidden_hunter Posted January 14, 2023 Share Posted January 14, 2023 Hi guys, I’m replacing the wheel bearings in the Cadillac at the moment and wondering about the best way to put the new ones in. It is a seperate taper bearing and cup, I have the originals so could tap them in using that but a proper puller would probably be better What size bushing should I get for the 375 and 3720? Or should I just use the old ones and a drift? It’s a timken 375 and 3720 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcticbuicks Posted January 15, 2023 Share Posted January 15, 2023 (edited) I put my parts in the freezer for an hour also or pack with ice.........but in winter in Canada just do it outside lol , and mildly heat the bearing race , sure works good for ring gear on a flywheel too.....the ring gear drops right over flywheel …….you would swear the bearing is too loose putting it onto frozen part sometimes Edited January 26, 2023 by arcticbuicks (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe_padavano Posted January 15, 2023 Share Posted January 15, 2023 If these are tapered roller bearings in the front hub, this isn't watchmaking. I usually drive the old races out with a steel punch and a "Ford tool". I use the old race to hammer the new races into place. Grinding the OD of the old race to allow it to slide into the hub is a smart idea. If you have a press, a small piece of steel plate across the other end of the old race equalizes the load, but frankly a sledge hammer and block of hardwood also work. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted January 15, 2023 Share Posted January 15, 2023 I use a hammer and a block of wood or an aluminum or brass drift for jobs like this. A scrap of 2X4 is as good as anything as it applies an even force spread over a large area and is soft enough not to do any damage. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PFitz Posted January 15, 2023 Share Posted January 15, 2023 Use a small dental type of mirror to make sure the bearing cup is fully seated in the hub. Sometimes hammering them in does not always seat them perfectly. Paul 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jubilee Posted January 15, 2023 Share Posted January 15, 2023 Warm hub. Dry ice race. ( let race sit on dry ice until it quits singing) Drop race in hub. Wear gloves. Race will not be damaged in any way. I’ve probably installed over 500 races this way. Before 1980, we use to change all 18 wheel bearings, races, and seals on the semis about every 400,000-500,000 miles. Preventative maintenance. Now a days, bearing unit and seals usually good for 1,000,000+ miles. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodge28 Posted January 18, 2023 Share Posted January 18, 2023 Am I missing something here ? I worked all my life in the heavy trucking industry and always use bearing and seal drivers sold by tool suppliers. The only time dry ice is used is freezing dry piston liners. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted January 19, 2023 Share Posted January 19, 2023 Dry ice shrinks the bearing. Bearing heaters expand the bearing. Each has a purpose in sliding bearings onto shafts or into holes. One can drive a 6203 bearing into and aluminum end bell of an alternator or motor, or you can heat the end bell and drop the bearing in. Either works. You can use an inductive bearing heater to make a 6206 bearing larger on the ID and drop it onto a motor shaft. Or you can make a pipe like driver and use a press. You can put a Corvair top cover in a press and try to hold it and press the fan bearing out, or heat it with a propane torch and the bearing drops out with slight tap on the shaft, no damage. Same installing the fan bearing, press the shaft in dry and risk breaking the aluminum cover, or heat the cover and press in easy to correct height. More than one way to skin the cat as we say. No, I do not own an inductive bearing heater. But I used to use them in several shops I worked in. But I do have Temple sticks and a torch... and gloves 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hidden_hunter Posted January 19, 2023 Author Share Posted January 19, 2023 I only have 4 bearings to install.... so probably looking for the most cost effective solution for the wheel bearings Is a press worth buying (and what size cup would I need) or should I just use the old bearings and a drift to knock them in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe_padavano Posted January 19, 2023 Share Posted January 19, 2023 8 hours ago, hidden_hunter said: I only have 4 bearings to install.... so probably looking for the most cost effective solution for the wheel bearings Hammer and punch 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted January 19, 2023 Share Posted January 19, 2023 Orion Motor Tech 10pcs Bearing Race and Seal Bushing Driver Install Set 9 Discs Collar Axle Housing with Carrying Case Master/Universal Aluminum Bush Drive Seal Kit for Automotive Wheel Bearings https://a.co/d/7eWPPs8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Gregush Posted January 20, 2023 Share Posted January 20, 2023 When using a punch and hammer, you generally can tell that the race is seated by the sound made when installing. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe_padavano Posted January 20, 2023 Share Posted January 20, 2023 31 minutes ago, Mark Gregush said: When using a punch and hammer, you generally can tell that the race is seated by the sound made when installing. On all the hubs I've ever worked on, you can see and feel when the race is up against the machined step. In any case, we've now spent twice as long talking about this as it takes to do it. 8 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted January 23, 2023 Share Posted January 23, 2023 Then we are right on schedule!👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jensenracing77 Posted January 23, 2023 Share Posted January 23, 2023 WOW! am I the only one that uses the correct OD size socket to drive these in? I just thought everyone done it like that. I never knew anyone that had the proper seal and bearing drivers. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted January 25, 2023 Share Posted January 25, 2023 Jensen, you are not alone! And people wonder why I have so many different brand sockets. I also own the Harbor Freight 3/4" drive socket sets standard and metric along with the 2' to 3" additional set. Most use of these sets has been as bearing drivers. Note, I only have a 12 ton press. I know the 20 ton and larger will break sockets and send shrapnel into your eyes so be careful out there. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jensenracing77 Posted January 25, 2023 Share Posted January 25, 2023 15 hours ago, Frank DuVal said: Jensen, you are not alone! And people wonder why I have so many different brand sockets. I also own the Harbor Freight 3/4" drive socket sets standard and metric along with the 2' to 3" additional set. Most use of these sets has been as bearing drivers. Note, I only have a 12 ton press. I know the 20 ton and larger will break sockets and send shrapnel into your eyes so be careful out there. Yep, Used them in the press as well but I don't get carried away with them there. About 12 years ago I was going to buy a 3/4 socket set. Was pricing them and deciding what brand I wanted. During this I drug home a 70 Cutlass 4 door that had no keys. When I got it home I took the back seat out and with lots of extensions, took the trunk latch off. To my surprise, there was a bran new 3/4 socket set still in the wrapper in the trunk. Was China stuff but works just fine for what I need. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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