1930 Buick Engines

[Erndog]

So rather than starting multiple threads for numerous Buick engine-related questions, I have decided it would be better to make a topic where they can conglomerate for easier perusal and keep the website cleaner. (after the fact).

 

First off, can anyone tell me exactly how to remove the roller lifter "assemblies" from the engine? I have all the pushrods out and it seems the assemblies should lift out, but they don't want to cooperate. I have removed them from a 1929 engine successfully, but that was nearly 50 years ago. What am I doing wrong?

[Mark Shaw]

I suggest you use lots of penetrating lube on the lifters as you hand crank the engine.

Then, use a strong magnet to pull up on the lifters as you have someone hand crank the engine.

[Erndog]

Are we talking about the same kind of lifters? These are the ones that are roller lifters, housed in an outer barrel, which by design prevents the roller lifter from being removed by itself.

[Str8-8-Dave]

1 hour ago, Erndog said:

These are the ones that are roller lifters, housed in an outer barrel, which by design prevents the roller lifter from being removed by itself.

I suspect Erndog is right.  To remove the lifters you must remove the rectangular side covers on the right side of the block.  You will then see the lifters are housed in iron carriers suspended above the camshaft.  It looks like the lifter bores are cast on the block in the picture attached but there is a retainer plate above the lift (see arrow) that has to come off to remove lifters.

[Erndog]

Str8-8-Dave,

That's why I am asking. I removed those retainers and the barrels still don't want to come out. I'll shoot some penetrent and let them sit and see what happens.

[Oregon Desert model 45]

Knock them out from the inside using something soft like a piece of brass or wood if they are really stuck.  They are thin walled castings  so be careful when bumping  them.  Don't try to pry against that little hold down tab with a lever as that risks breaking them.  I don't recall if they can be reached if the cam is still in - you might have to pull the cam out.   Pictured is a 1928 lifter which I assume is still similar to 1930 design

[Rock10]

Soak and heat.

 

[EmTee]

10 hours ago, Rock10 said:

Soak and heat.

 

Lather, rinse and repeat...

[Mark Kikta]

I carefully knocked mine out with a wooden dowel from below with the oil pan off.

[Str8-8-Dave]

They probably have a ridge of sludge or varnish around the perimeter of the lifter below the guide bores.   When lifter is all the way up there is probably some of the machined perimeter of the lifter that does not travel into the guide bore.  Use of wood dowel from the underside of the lifters with pan removed is safer than brass drift.  Don't chip the guide bores in the block.

[Erndog]

All excellent suggestions. I might just leave well enough alone, as there don't seem to be any issues with them right now. Just wanted to inspect and clean them up.

[Morgan Wright]

On my car I wanted to inspect and clean them also. The lifters just came right up in my 242 for some reason. I took around 3 of them out and inspected them, there was no rust anywhere, the wheels turned fine, so I just said f%^& it and left well enough alone and didn't do the rest. As far as cleaning them, I figured new oil and frequent oil changes would get them clean as a whistle. Those roller lifters are solidly built, because when better cars were built, Buick built them.

[Erndog]

Anyone have a source for felt strips or sheets suitable to make rear pan seals with?

[dibarlaw]

Erndog:

 Restoration Supply Company in Cal. sells felt in various thicknesses for seals and such.

On mine I cut some from a rear trunk mat from my mom's old 1990 Olds.