dlcoop Posted February 27, 2022 Share Posted February 27, 2022 Anyone have the correct part number for the front grease seal for the 55. Besides bleeding, have decided to go with new cylinders and hoses as they appear to be original. Took the drums off and they need to be turned but as soon as you take knock out the bearing the seal gets destroyed. Tried Cars, Inc and classic buicks with no part showing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobileparts Posted February 27, 2022 Share Posted February 27, 2022 I have the best price on the planet for *** N.O.S. *** U.S.A. made *** Front Inner & Outer Wheel Bearings --- and I have some *** N.O.S. *** U.S.A. made Front Seals with nice soft supple felt.... Always best to simply call me--- 516 - 485 - 1935 --- Craig.....New York... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted February 27, 2022 Share Posted February 27, 2022 RockAuto 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAD36 Posted February 27, 2022 Share Posted February 27, 2022 (edited) https://www.ebay.com/itm/224368644000?hash=item343d69cfa0:g:e-QAAOSwER1gMUCk ^—— there’s an example. Happens to be one of my saved eBay searches. Part #1322703. Haven’t had any issues and have a spare set or two on the shelf. Try warming up a little around the outside edge of the hub - warm not hot - and tapping with a piece of wood from the other side. Unless they are rusted in for 20 years that usually works. Put a skim coat of grease on the when putting back in to help with removal, I had to dremel my original ones off they were so frozen in place. Good luck Edited February 27, 2022 by KAD36 (see edit history) 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted February 27, 2022 Share Posted February 27, 2022 Back in the pre-computer days when parts weren't so easy to find there were times when I cleaned a good looking felt seal with spray brake or carb cleaner. Then used a pick to lightly fluff the felt up again. I have never been one to over grease front wheel bearings. I hand pack them in my palm and wipe a small clump down the spindle. I have not worried about grease slinging out and contaminating the shoes if I do the job. It would certainly be my option if faced with a new offshore replacement. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted February 27, 2022 Share Posted February 27, 2022 Oh, I took the Ebay link. Ebay thinks I might also be interested in a set of wheel seals for a '57 Plymouth and a Thunderbird clutch pack. "Atta boy, Luther!" 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted February 27, 2022 Share Posted February 27, 2022 Your local NAPA store.............Bob 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAD36 Posted February 27, 2022 Share Posted February 27, 2022 3 hours ago, 60FlatTop said: Oh, I took the Ebay link. Ebay thinks I might also be interested in a set of wheel seals for a '57 Plymouth and a Thunderbird clutch pack. "Atta boy, Luther!" See you never know what your future holds….🤣 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlcoop Posted February 28, 2022 Author Share Posted February 28, 2022 Just to say thanks for all the input. Going to do the whole system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted February 28, 2022 Share Posted February 28, 2022 If you have OEM wheel cylinders I would recommend having them sleeved by Apple Hydraulic (others are OK, just had very good work from them). The quality of the off shore parts is very low. I have a new Raybestos master cylinder I bought for my '64 Riviera that had such poor machining I used the new rubber on my resleeved original. If you have trouble finding rebuild kits just buy the new cylinder and use the rubber parts. The new rubber doesn't seem too bad. Then toss the new casting. I did. If you decide to use the new parts run the line fitting into the threads before you install it in a hard to get to spot. I have a drawer with fittings just for that purpose. Monkeying with the threads is easier holding the part in your hand, less chance to cross thread. (I swear some countries use a broach for those rough and burred threads.) Also be prepared with a 11MM bleeder wrench. No sense it having it all together, ready to bleed, and find out your trusty 5/16 tool won't work. When checking lines for replacement and you have a question of condition use a pair of vice grips to gently squeeze the sides of the line, just a little pressure. Water lies in the bottom of the lines and corrosion will reduce the wall thickness. If they are thin the side pressure will make the bottom crack like a lobster tail. A good line will take a little squeeze with no ill-effects. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlcoop Posted February 28, 2022 Author Share Posted February 28, 2022 I do not have any leaks . Just can't bleed the brakes as I do not have the factory tool. I can replace the bleed screws if I can find out what size to get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted March 1, 2022 Share Posted March 1, 2022 Tool for what -- the fittings? Aren't they 5/16"? I use a 6pt socket on my 1/4" drive socket to break them loose, if I can get the ratchet in there. Otherwise, I use the socket with a piece of 1/4" square stock and turn it with my 1/4" open-end wrench. My 1/4" combination wrench is 12pt -- guaranteed to strip the head... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted March 1, 2022 Share Posted March 1, 2022 (edited) Do you have the bleed screws with the screws in top instead of rubber dust caps? Is that the issue? It is possible to buy an internal hex bolt with a hole through the middle and use it in place of the dust cover screw for vacuum bleeding if you have those old style bleeders. As I got mine from another forum member years ago, I don't know the source offhand. It is also possible to just cram the bigger adapter of a harbor freight vacuum bleeder over the the hex, you just can't have the wrench on at the same time. Its a little inconvenient but not impossible to deal with. Shove the wrench under and pop it off while it is still under vacuum. If that doesn't work out, just get it mostly bled with the vacuum, and someone to help you foot bleed one or 2 squirts right at the end of the process. It's a good idea to do that anyway. I don't know the thread size. It may not be the original size anyway if the cylinders were ever replaced. If you are going to exchange the bleeders for modern ones, you may just have to go to the parts store and match them up. Edited March 1, 2022 by Bloo (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAD36 Posted March 1, 2022 Share Posted March 1, 2022 Man I’m takin notes - lots of good shop hacks in this thread! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlcoop Posted March 1, 2022 Author Share Posted March 1, 2022 It just started with me wanting to flush and bleed the system. There are not barbs on the wheel cylinders to attach a hose for bleeding. Murphy's law has come into play. ordered wheel cylinders, then the hoses, now replacing the shoes and turning the drums. Should stop when I am all done. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted March 1, 2022 Share Posted March 1, 2022 20 hours ago, EmTee said: Tool for what -- the fittings? Aren't they 5/16"? There is a good chance the new wheel cylinders will have an 11MM bleed screw. I ran into this on a weekend so I ordered the bleeder wrench through NAPA online for pickup Monday morning. They now sell Evercraft tools. I quickly replaced it with a Snap On to be able to concentrate on my work. Every time I look at it I start laughing. A bleeder wrench. supposed to be three 90 degree bends. Not a one. It's awful, hammered out next to a smudge pot somewhere east of Mumbai, like deep in the jungle east. Not just any ordinary purchasing agent can find stuff like that. Earlier I mentioned the water settling in the lines. The same thing happens in the wheel cylinders in the fluid space between the cylinder cup seals. If you flush the mud out there will be pits in the middle of the bore just below the bleeder. I have seen people flush and adjust the brakes on a new find. Adjusting will bring the cup lip seals in closer to the pitted area. In a short time the fluid will blow past the seal through the pitted area and drip from the backing plate. The flush and adjust just aggravated the problem. If the old car has been sitting around without brake service you will find it on most cars. The best procedure is to annually bleed the brake fluid at each wheel cylinder until clear fluid comes out. Then the metal parts in contact with the fluid will be long lived. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted March 2, 2022 Share Posted March 2, 2022 So, the old check the bearings without damaging the seal trick I learned 50 years ago: Remove spindle nut, slide drum/hub assembly off the spindle part way. Remove outer bearing cone/washer. Put spindle nut on a few turns. Slide drum/hub off letting gravity keep it on the spindle. Bingo, inner bearing cone has removed your seal, ready for cleaning and inspecting, like Bernie says, and reuse it usually. Now if it bends into a pretzel, you needed a new one anyway!😉 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted March 2, 2022 Share Posted March 2, 2022 Great trick, but I think that only works for Timkens, not ball bearings. How old is this Buick? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted March 2, 2022 Share Posted March 2, 2022 (edited) 55 is a ball bearing front hub design is my guess based on my '56 Special. So trick will not work. May even put force on the ball bearing assembly, not good! I'll go back under my rock....😁 And check a cross section view of a ball bearing hub. Well, that didn't take long, Yes, DAMAGE can happen with ball bearing hubs: I have edited my above post to add the roller bearing only warning. Thanks for the reminder Bloo! Edited March 2, 2022 by Frank DuVal Damage control (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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