'25 Nash Touring - back to the road we go, with a twist!

[Terry Harper]

10 hours ago, edinmass said:

The two spots that were damp are your tears dripping on the core when you find out the replacement cost. 
 

That pump will be very difficult to make. It won’t 3D print. Find a new one.

 

It may be possible to save what you have. Don’t let a hack welder get his hands on it. 

Hello Ed, 

The cover itself is what he needs which is fairly simple. 3D printing a pattern and core box would be rather straight forward. In fact I think a foundry such as Cattail - that has extensive experience using original parts as patterns, would probably be able to use his original cover as the pattern and core mold.

 

If that fails there is always to option to put the new addition to my lab to use.

 

 

 

[edinmass]

Simple if you have access and ability! Commercial access isn't particularly budget friendly. 

[Lahti35]

Good and bad news in the shop today...

 

I test fit the transmission into the clutch and it slid in easily, lining up the friction disc with the pilot bushing using the transmission input shaft on clutch assembly did the trick. Unfortunately for me I noticed that the throw out carrier was touching the clutch brake at rest. Being that the clutch adjustment is already backed off as much as possible the only conclusion I could reach is that the friction material on the newly lined disc is too thick. Nothing I can do but have it relined with thinner material. I went with the recommendation of the clutch guys (as there book didn't have the spec for this car) and it's a no go. The clutch will not operate in this condition as there is no space to actuate it since it pulls to the rear when depressed.

 

Now that I don't have the original linings anymore I don't know what the original thickness was. I've been unable to find the spec so it's going to be fun to figure this one out... Now I have to make a pilot tool also as the input shaft is installed in the transmission and can't be used again to align the works like before.

 

The good news is I was able to get it started for a short amount of time easily after sitting for a few months, always a good sign things are happy... I started it up to put some pressure on that camshaft cover and see if she held or leaked. No leaks so that's good, this should take care of that nasty leak it had.

 

So the roller coaster continues and we battle on...  

[JFranklin]

Just thinking out loud but couldn't some material be removed from the disc faces? Also I have purchased tools to align clutch discs. Is the spline odd? 

[Walter Jones]

I made my own clutch alignment tool for our 29 Plymouth. I thought I had a picture of just the tool but I can't find it. I found a piece of dowel rod that fit in the end of the PVC and in the pilot bushing. Duct tape can be used to tighten up the clearances if necessary.

[Lahti35]

9 hours ago, JFranklin said:

Just thinking out loud but couldn't some material be removed from the disc faces? Also I have purchased tools to align clutch discs. Is the spline odd? 

I'm not sure about removing material, it's an interesting idea I hadn't thought of. It would have to be done in some sort of machine I would think to keep it even all the way around. I'll look into it!

[Lahti35]

9 hours ago, Walter Jones said:

I made my own clutch alignment tool for our 29 Plymouth. I thought I had a picture of just the tool but I can't find it. I found a piece of dowel rod that fit in the end of the PVC and in the pilot bushing. Duct tape can be used to tighten up the clearances if necessary.

Great idea! I was going to machine some plastic rod but this seems simpler and effective. Thanks 👍

[edinmass]

I would consider removing the clutch brake facing material. They(clutch brake) are useless anyway. There are clutch books out there that list the material thickness. I now longer have my book, I sold it last year. I now send all my disks to Fort Wayne Clutch. They are great guys, and offer different material choices. A few years back I did a Stutz clutch. It had been done no less than three times in the previous fifty miles. One call with Fort Wayne and we got the correct material for the disk. Worked perfectly. Interestingly the previous people requested a modern incorrect friction material……it went from the worst chatter I had ever seen to smooth as silk.

[viv w]

Looked at the parts manual and my 261 instruction books tonight. The parts book shows the 2 clutch facings to be about the same thickness as the steel disc to which they are rivetted.

 The instruction book says to adjust push in the clutch pedal and use the end of a hammer handle to tap the adjusting nuts clockwise in their slots until you have a 3/8th gap between the carrier and clutch brake. Hope this helps.

[Lahti35]

10 hours ago, edinmass said:

I would consider removing the clutch brake facing material. They(clutch brake) are useless anyway. There are clutch books out there that list the material thickness. I now longer have my book, I sold it last year. I now send all my disks to Fort Wayne Clutch. They are great guys, and offer different material choices. A few years back I did a Stutz clutch. It had been done no less than three times in the previous fifty miles. One call with Fort Wayne and we got the correct material for the disk. Worked perfectly. Interestingly the previous people requested a modern incorrect friction material……it went from the worst chatter I had ever seen to smooth as silk.

Even if I removed the 3/16" clutch brake there still wouldn't be enough space, I'd need another 5/16" minimum. I had Ft Wayne do the friction disc, at the time they called me asking if I knew the thickness spec as it was not in their books. We talked and he gave me some options and we ended up at 0.140" friction material thickness, however after doing some measuring today I discovered that the material thickness is 0.160" even though it lists 0.140" on the work order. I was tempted to drill the rivets and get a good measurement but I don't want to disturb it until I hear back from Ft Wayne. I was able to measure a bit of the lip sticking out from the casting though and it's thicker than it should be. 

 

Nash says I need 1/2" of free play between the clutch brake and the throw out carrier, which I original had. A little difference in clutch thickness makes a big difference in the position at the end of the arms.  I ran a test today to find the acceptable total clutch thickness so I can have some numbers when Ft Wayne gets back to me. 

 

First I made a replica of a factory tool that sets the throw out carrier at the correct distance from the cover plate. 

 

The arms are nearly parallel to the cover plate in this position as they should be when installed.

 

What I did next was tape some scrap steel in 3 spots around the pressure plate starting at 0.404" thick. The goal here was to take up the space of the friction disc and get the clutch arms to relax their hold on the spacer tool just enough to allow it to move indicating contact with the flywheel.

 

I was close on the first try but needed a bit more so I added a piece of 20ga on the stack for try #2 and got what I was looking for. Maximum total thickness for the friction disc has to be 0.440", currently the total thickness is 0.500".

 

We'll see what Ft Wayne says this week, I hope we can square it way quickly. 

Edited December 5, 2022 by Lahti35 (see edit history)

[Lahti35]

4 hours ago, viv w said:

Looked at the parts manual and my 261 instruction books tonight. The parts book shows the 2 clutch facings to be about the same thickness as the steel disc to which they are rivetted.

 The instruction book says to adjust push in the clutch pedal and use the end of a hammer handle to tap the adjusting nuts clockwise in their slots until you have a 3/8th gap between the carrier and clutch brake. Hope this helps.

Thanks Viv! 

 

That is the same procedure my book says too, with a little more gap in my case at 1/2".

 

BTW, I have not forgotten about the wood measurements... I'll get those for you soon!

[Lahti35]

Ft Wayne clutch is going to replace the linings on the friction disc since they put ones that were too thick on there, stuff happens no bid deal. I sent them all the evidence I collected Sunday and they're going to take care of it. Instead of going with the original .140" material I had them go with the .125" material. The clutch was nearly at the adjustment limit one way with the old disc in it, a slightly thinner material should give me some leeway. Hopefully It will get there and back before X-mas. I'd really like to get the trans mounted over vacation.

 

Another Nash thing going on is the transmission lock. 

 

It came with no key and was locked up tight. I couldn't find any info on this lock so I studied the goofy thing trying to figure out how to get it apart and have made some progress. There was a plug on the face you could see the outline of. I assumed it was a pin or a plug holding the lock guts in and eventually got it out by welding a nut carefully over it and pulling with vice grips. This was not made to come apart!

 

I hoped I would be able to remove the guts at this point but it was a no go. I repeatedly banged it down on a piece of pine hoping it's own weight would pull it out of the housing but no go. What did happen though was a bunch of trash came out of it and the keyway, freeing it up to where I could insert the ignition key (same blank type, different cut) and wiggle the lock mechanism. Progress!

 

Jesser's Classic Keys has the correct key so I'll relay my lock code to them and pick one up. I'm wondering if there is a secondary retainer inside the lock that keeps it from being released unless the key is turned to a certain spot. The whole part inside the housing is moving somewhat so it's loose, just not ready to come out. 

[kbeach]

I beleive the pin that you welded the nut to should retract into the lock when the key unlocks the cylinder. The lock should be spring loaded and pop up releasing the pin that locking the transmission. There may be a second pin that will fit into the hole of the lock housing near the top to keep the cylinder from inadvertently  being pushed down and locking the transmission while driving.

[kbeach]

The lock cylinder is held inplace by a snap ring. The only way to remove it is by drilling it out.

[Lahti35]

15 hours ago, kbeach said:

I beleive the pin that you welded the nut to should retract into the lock when the key unlocks the cylinder. The lock should be spring loaded and pop up releasing the pin that locking the transmission. There may be a second pin that will fit into the hole of the lock housing near the top to keep the cylinder from inadvertently  being pushed down and locking the transmission while driving.

I didn't find anything under it when I took it off, it was more like a cover as it did not extend into the body of the lock. Inside the hole there is a much smaller hole that may have a pin that moves in/out or may just be an indentation to keep the lock body from rotating in the housing. It's all very mysterious! Jesser's proved to be a dead end, they can provide me with a blank but not a cut key. I've been watching youtube videos on making keys with the "impression process" so that might work. The key blank is the same as the ignition key just a different cut so I know which blank to get at least.

 

It's something to mess with between other messes... I would like it to work, I hate non functioning stuff... Even if I'm not going to use it, it's the principal!

[kbeach]

Looking at the "Reed " key codes book, Nash used Briggs & Stratton locks from 1924 - 1940 (1940 is the last year shown in this book). From 1922 - 1927 they used either Yale or Sargent. I don't seem to be able to match your numbers to either. Using your numbers the book comes up with Cadillac. Do you know the number of the key blank? Also, what are the numbers on your ignition lock?

[kbeach]

Took another look at your lock numbers and they are a real mystrery. The "Reed" code book lists Nash 1919 - 21 as using one key code (we have a 1920 Chevrolet model FB that did the samething, one key fits all). The book is mute for 1922 - 23 then lists 1924 as using Yale or Sargent locks, then it is mute for 1925 - 27 (the first time I looked I thought they combined 1922 - 27 but now I do not believe that to be correct). Maybe another forum member has a code book that lists 1925 Nash.

[Lahti35]

2 hours ago, kbeach said:

Took another look at your lock numbers and they are a real mystrery. The "Reed" code book lists Nash 1919 - 21 as using one key code (we have a 1920 Chevrolet model FB that did the samething, one key fits all). The book is mute for 1922 - 23 then lists 1924 as using Yale or Sargent locks, then it is mute for 1925 - 27 (the first time I looked I thought they combined 1922 - 27 but now I do not believe that to be correct). Maybe another forum member has a code book that lists 1925 Nash.

Interesting... I've got to get my key blank number so I can order a few blanks to try my hand at making a key by impression. Haven't had a chance to get into the garage and touch the car really since Saturday yet...

[Lahti35]

I got my new muffler and spent a few hours on the exhaust system after chores today. Nice to get back into the garage, spent all week doing work junk!

 

I cut the old muffler out with a sawzall as the new one is longer and I was hoping to just plug it into the system.

 

It's also a larger diameter than the old 4" muffler that didn't fit the retaining strap as it was too small.

 

Unfortunately this new one is slightly too large! What's a guy to do but make some modifications... I straightened the old strap out as it was kind of mangled from a past "mechanic" and cut it after massaging it to fit the radius of the muffler body. I then took some scrap steel of the same size and bent it around the muffler to make the same radius again and cut a chunk to fit the void in the strap. 

 

Ground down and smoothed out... The modified strap now hugs the muffler firmly and has the correct spacing for the frame mounting bolts, no more jiggly exhaust driving around. 

 

Another issue is the proximity of the exhaust pipe to the engine mount crossmember.  It's 1/4" away at best. This whole system was poorly done and is full of clamps, short extensions pieces, wrong size flanges and leaks. I'm going to cut the pipe ahead of the crossmember and fabricate a dip to clear it and come out inline with the muffler behind it. So much for "plugging" the new muffler in, the whole system needs a rework. 

 

The old muffler itself is just a straight through affair, looks like tractor muffler. The car was pretty loud with it, louder than I feel it should have been. The new muffler is not a straight through design and should quit it down some, it will be interesting to see how the exhaust note changes. I'm going to have to wait for my pipe bends to arrive before I can put it all together though. 

 

Ft Wayne got the clutch back Friday so I hope to see it late next week. I'd like to get the clutch and exhaust done before X-mas so I can move on to other stuff. Kind feels like I've been going in circles lately... Lots of work but not much progress.

 

[Lahti35]

On 12/7/2022 at 4:04 PM, kbeach said:

Looking at the "Reed " key codes book, Nash used Briggs & Stratton locks from 1924 - 1940 (1940 is the last year shown in this book). From 1922 - 1927 they used either Yale or Sargent. I don't seem to be able to match your numbers to either. Using your numbers the book comes up with Cadillac. Do you know the number of the key blank? Also, what are the numbers on your ignition lock?

Looks like the key that fits the ignition is an Ilco H1098M. I don't know what the number is on the ignition, I'll have to look close at it next time (it;s not original to the car but of the same era). It goes fully into the transmission lock which I think is a 4 pin unit. I think the cut is very close to the ignition key as it turn quite a bit in the trans lock but not all the way. 

 

Edited December 11, 2022 by Lahti35 (see edit history)

[kbeach]

Looks like ILCO H1098A & H1098B key blanks were a common blank used by GM into the mid 1970s. Do not know the difference between H1098A, H1098B and H1098M. Wish I had code books that had a little more cross reference information.

[viv w]

My 1927 does not have a keyed ignition switch, it has a push pull Delco switch and a transmission lock. Are you sure your car should have a keyed ignition switch? I would think your car should also have a pull type ignition switch as shown below.

Regards

Viv

 

 

 

[Lahti35]

Interesting Viv... My manual shows a keyed ignition, however my original Delco switch was replaced with a Kellog switch at some point. It's very similar but not original but more stable than the original pot metal one. Maybe it's just luck that the key for the replacement switch also is the same blank as the transmission lock, who can say!

[Lahti35]

Spent some time under the Nash today doing exhaust work. Last weekend I'd hoped the new muffler would plug and play but the system was so full of hackery it was never going to work. 

 

I started by installing the expanded muffler clamp. The bolt closest to the frame rail is very tough to get at with that gusset plate in the way and the body being 1/2" close to where the bolt exits the crossmember at the top. Took some work but I got it installed using the other bolt as a third hand to hold it in place during the action. 

 

With the muffle loosely in place I could commence to chopping up the front pipe to install the "whoopdie" to give the rear engine crossmember some space. I bought a 180 degree exhaust bend and cut it in three, flipping the ends over and tack welding to create the clearance. 

 

 

Before removing the front exhaust tube I marked where to cut it holding the new tubing in place. I saved a section of the front tube and welded it to the new tube to get me to the muffler. The muffler itself came with just plan ends and instead of using traditional pipe clamps that deform the tubing and make removal tough I went with band type clamps and cut four slits in the inlet/outlet muffler pipes to allow for some compression.

 

I mocked up the front pipe going from the muffler to crossmember and it looked good. At the crossmember it makes a 10 degree turn to the right and heads for the downpipe from the manifold. I had hoped to do it all today but it was clear that I was fighting a battle for no reason with the old crappy downpipe and decided to just make a new one. It's too long for a pre-bent mandrel section (and I would need a short straight bit) so instead of piecing it together I contacted a local shop that can hopefully bend me a 90 degree piece with long legs and eliminate short welded pieces. I had planned to redo the downpipe in the future, just not so soon.

 

Since I'm kind stuck again until I have the downpipe I attached the tailpipe to the muffler, the only part of the exhaust that was usable as is with no modification. I like these clamps, very sturdy and they don't put a big dent in the pipe. I made sure to line up the slits I cut for compression so they were all covered by the clamp so hopefully no leaks.

Edited December 17, 2022 by Lahti35 (see edit history)

[Lahti35]

I got my chunk of exhaust tubing early this week and was lucky enough to find a shop that could bend it into a 90 like I needed. Nice guy, did it for free and wished me a Merry Christmas! I wonder now if I didn't make an error with the bend being a 3" radius instead of a 4" like the old pipe. The old pipe was not original and was a 4" radius, I wonder if a 3" would be too tight. I don't want to choke the engine even if it is only 60hp... Maybe I'm just being fussy.

 

I also got my clutch friction disk back also. With 1/8" linings it now measures in at .430" total width, I feel like the original measured in at .438 the best I can recall. I think this will solve the issue with lack of space for adjustment.

 

I even got a nice nasty cold for the holidays so installation will have to wait a bit unfortunately, I was hoping to get it installed this weekend. Such things happen and I'll have to be content to jockey the computer and hunt for parts.

[32buick67]

7 hours ago, Lahti35 said:

I got my chunk of exhaust tubing early this week and was lucky enough to find a shop that could bend it into a 90 like I needed. Nice guy, did it for free and wished me a Merry Christmas! I wonder now if I didn't make an error with the bend being a 3" radius instead of a 4" like the old pipe. The old pipe was not original and was a 4" radius, I wonder if a 3" would be too tight. I don't want to choke the engine even if it is only 60hp... Maybe I'm just being fussy.

 

I also got my clutch friction disk back also. With 1/8" linings it now measures in at .430" total width, I feel like the original measured in at .438 the best I can recall. I think this will solve the issue with lack of space for adjustment.

 

I even got a nice nasty cold for the holidays so installation will have to wait a bit unfortunately, I was hoping to get it installed this weekend. Such things happen and I'll have to be content to jockey the computer and hunt for parts.

Hope you feel better, be sure to get well-hydrated and get rest!

Who relined your clutch?

Looks good

[Lahti35]

10 hours ago, 32buick67 said:

Hope you feel better, be sure to get well-hydrated and get rest!

Who relined your clutch?

Looks good

Thanks! looking forward to getting back out in the shop!

 

I had the clutch relined by Ft Wayne Clutch and Driveline. They did a good job and took care of an issue that popped up. I would recommend them!

[dibarlaw]

Same request from me ..please get well and keep up your work on the Nash!

When I redid the cobbled exhaust on my 1925 Buick Standard finding someone to bend the 5 3/4" radius on the down pipe was a trial.

Diagram from Hugh Leidlein's original.

 

What was in there was a piece welded up into 3 sections.

 

The dark spot is where fuel would drip from the flooded Marvel carb as this pipe was directly below th splash pan drain hole. The original design has an offset to avoid this.

The problem being on how to get the bend properly centered  to the splash shield exhaust plate. Any of the local shops (2 have since closed) that had bending equipment could do at max a 4" radius. Paul at Pounds Automotine in Fayettville, PA. was able to "walk" the curve of the radius using his 4" arbor bending a bit at a time.

 I believe I had them do one more tweak to get the flange seated square.

 My friend Dave needed a complete exhaust made for his 1928 Buick Standard project. Very similar to the shape of my 1925 pipe. At least he had the original for them to copy and needed added length because of eliminating the exhaust damper.

 He had taken his request to shops around the D.C. and greater Baltimore area with no one willing to do this job or anything on his 1941 Buick.

 

 

Edited December 23, 2022 by dibarlaw
Added content (see edit history)

[Lahti35]

10 hours ago, dibarlaw said:

Same request from me ..please get well and keep up your work on the Nash!

When I redid the cobbled exhaust on my 1925 Buick Standard finding someone to bend the 5 3/4" radius on the down pipe was a trial.

Diagram from Hugh Leidlein's original.

 

What was in there was a piece welded up into 3 sections.

 

The dark spot is where fuel would drip from the flooded Marvel carb as this pipe was directly below th splash pan drain hole. The original design has an offset to avoid this.

The problem being on how to get the bend properly centered  to the splash shield exhaust plate. Any of the local shops (2 have since closed) that had bending equipment could do at max a 4" radius. Paul at Pounds Automotine in Fayettville, PA. was able to "walk" the curve of the radius using his 4" arbor bending a bit at a time.

 I believe I had them do one more tweak to get the flange seated square.

 My friend Dave needed a complete exhaust made for his 1928 Buick Standard project. Very similar to the shape of my 1925 pipe. At least he had the original for them to copy and needed added length because of eliminating the exhaust damper.

 He had taken his request to shops around the D.C. and greater Baltimore area with no one willing to do this job or anything on his 1941 Buick.

 

 

It certainly can be tough to get exhaust work done local anymore. 

 

I think after some consideration I'll play with it a bit and see what I can't come up with. I'm fortunate in a way that the exhaust manifold points straight down on the Nash and lines up with the hole in the splash pan before it needs to bend. I ordered a mandrel bent 4" radius 2" dia pipe this evening to try out. I've got some spare pipe to work with and if it means piecing the down pipe together and sanding the welds off to make it look pretty I could live with that. The pipe I'm replacing had that 4" radius but it was indented and slightly crushed by the bender back in the day, a clean mandrel bend would be an improvement that would satisfy my fussy nature.

 

Thanks for the well wishes, no fun holding the couch down!

[Lahti35]

20 hours ago, 32buick67 said:

Hope you feel better, be sure to get well-hydrated and get rest!

Who relined your clutch?

Looks good

Will do! Thanks for the well wishes!

[ARUCKEY]

Consider bring your car to the national Nash meet in Batavia, NY  July 19-22, 2023.  www.nashcarblub.org.  Al Ruckey

[Lahti35]

Borg & Beck Clutch Part II - The Sequel!

 

I started the new year hoping to get the clutch in today since I was feeling better... My re-relined friction plate was based solely on the math I did a few weeks ago so if it didn't work this time I'd be SOL! I knew I did the test to get the thickness the best I knew how so I was hoping and crossing my fingers while second guessing myself.

 

The original was set to be relined with .140" linings but was mistakenly lined with .156" so I got a free redo at the companies cost. There was no data for my car so we were hoping .140" would work but after what I'd seen those weren't going to work either so I told them to use .125" linings for the reline. 

 

I had to build a couple of tools to get this clutch back together. One was a copy of a factory tool that was kind of like a pickle fork to hold the clutch at the proper distance from the cover plate as this is critical on this type of clutch. The other is a pilot alignment tool I made out of some scrap steel rod and an old piston wrist pin bulked up with some tape. 

 

I was able to get the clutch in after cleaning everything to spotless inside.

 

The adjustment with the .125" clutch linings was very close to the old position with the original linings. It took a bit of trial and error to get the adjustment decent, a small adjustment makes a big difference as to how much the throwout carrier sticks out of the cover. Final adjustment will most likely see the current setting return even closer to the original position.

 

I ended up gaining 5/8" of space at the end of the throwout carrier, plus there is space to adjust it in or out more. I couldn't ask for a better result, this is where it should be according to the diagrams I have.

 

Next up was muscling the transmission into place... The tricky part was getting the keyed input shaft to line up with the throwout carrier, then getting the splines in the input shaft lined up with the splines in the friction plate, and then getting the tip of the input shaft into the pilot bushing in the flywheel. With the cover off the transmission I was able to rotate the shaft as each step progressed to line everything up. I could feel the clunks at each step... Clunk... Clunk... Clunk, Bingo we're in! 

 

This time the transmission slid all the way forward unlike last time. The bellhousing registered on the block alignment pins and I bolted in in place.

 

A quick look underneath confirmed success as there was space between the clutch brake and throwout carrier. I'll dial it in to the correct 1/2" later but so far so good!

 

I also installed the clutch and brake levers after cleaning and greasing them along with their ID's.

 

The last step to make sure the clutch actually did anything was to set the throwout arms on the shaft so they came in contact with the throwout bearing thrust face. They have to be close enough to actuate the carrier but not so close that they touch the shaft as it spins. The pins in the arms that contact the bearing must be hard as they survived the carnage  of the old throwout carrier disaster without any wear. 

 

Once the whole assembly was tight I pushed in the clutch pedal and was rewarded with nice, smooth, pedal travel and no excessive resistance. I'll have to wait until the exhaust is done to fire it up again and test it under running conditions but I feel good about it. I think I've got this one under control, what a ride! Startin' of the new year right...

 

 

 

 

Edited January 2, 2023 by Lahti35 (see edit history)

[Lahti35]

I took a road trip this AM down to Ferndale MI to a radiator shop and dropped the Nash radiator off for testing and repair. I was a bit concerned about leaving my radiator there but the owner gave me a tour and showed me several antique radiators he was working on or had completed. It was a heck of a shop, a real old timey place. I saw a giant brass era Olds radiator, 1930 Cadillac, model T, and various other antique rads complete or in process. I felt pretty good after that. I should have it back before the end of the month...

 

On the way home I stopped at another locksmith with the transmission lock in hopes they could make me a key now that the pins were free and moving. I tried making a key using a method I saw on youtube and was partially successful. While the key wouldn't work well, if I wiggled it around some I could feel it releasing a few pins at a time and actually managed to lock it. This proves it does function at least! I left the lock with them to try to make me a set of keys. 

 

I spent a few hours this evening working on the brake equalizer rod ends. The equalizer rod was installed yesterday...

 

 

I did not connect the brake pedal yet, I wanted to get the system cleaned and connected to the rod first.

 

The original support springs (on the right) were beat up so I found some similar replacements from Mcmaster, same wire diameter, just a hair shorter, but with more coils.

 

They worked just fine to keep the equalizer rod pulled up to the frame.

 

The rod ends themselves terminate in a double ended crank with ball ends.

 

There is no provision to grease these so they were kind of crusty with mud and old dried grease.

 

This was pretty much the condition of all the joints. I was pleasantly surprised to find no corrosion on the balls and sockets under the gunk. After cleaning I ran some sand paper around the ball ends to lightly dress any rough spots, then sand blasted and painted the bits and pieces. 

 

Once these are dry tomorrow I'll grease them up and return them to service.

 

Edited January 6, 2023 by Lahti35 (see edit history)

[31nash880]

Very nice,makes me want to get back to scrubbing gunk lol.

[Lahti35]

12 hours ago, 31nash880 said:

Very nice,makes me want to get back to scrubbing gunk lol.

Plenty of gunk to go around in this hobby!

[Lahti35]

Odds and ends day today...

 

Spent a few hours in the shop as it's still in the 30's here, the deep freeze is at bay for a few weeks so it's a good time to work in the unheated side of my shop. 

 

I knew the Nash was running rich as I could start it with ease, no choke at all. When I pulled the exhaust pipe it was full of heavy dark soot... I'm sure the plugs are soot covered also but for now I just turned the jet adjustment in 1/2 turn and we'll see where that gets me.

 

I adjusted the clutch to the correct 1/2 clearance. The adjustment bolts ended up very close to the original position, almost dead on. I may decrease this a bit to 3/8" as the pedal travel to reach the clutch brake is pretty long... I'm 6' so I need all the foot space I can get. I don't think this would affect anything as the clutch engages plenty, I'll play with it when the weather warms up.

 

Next up was the thowout carrier oiler. It got bent during the first install and when I bent it back the solder cracked at the base so I redid it and pressure tested to make sure there were no pinhole leaks. 

 

 

I got the ball arms installed on the equalizer rod as well as the rod ends installed and greased. I did not find any evidence of a cover from the factory on these joints, I guess they just get cleaned and greased every so often being exposed as they are...They definitely move smoother with less resistance.

 

 

 

One of the last bits of the brake system at the equalizer rod is the connection to the brake pedal.

 

The pedal connection was a mess and just a solid mass of grunge and bent parts.

 

I got it apart and found the bolt bent, the washer bent, and the spring with the life squashed out of it. Someone had obviously tried to adjust the pedal past the limit. I got the parts cleaned, the bolt straightened, and found a thicker washer but will have to find a new spring. What a mess. I don't know how many thin, bent, washers backing deformed springs I've found over the years in this hobby but it's more than a few!

 

Last up for the night was hooking the starter pedal back up. I dug around in my stash and found a washer and cotter pin with the required patina and secured the rod and spring to the starter arm. I tried it out and it worked as normal. 

[Lahti35]

I tacked the exhaust tube together today using the mandrel bends and tubing I had acquired. I decided against using the pipe I had bent in favor of the un-squashed bends for better flow. I tried to keep all the bends at a minimum also, just enough to clear stuff. I had to back track a bit as the brake equalizer rod was not installed when I started making the exhaust and turned out to just touch the tubing...

 

I pulled apart the section I had done coming out of the muffler and rewelded them, along with some new tube, into a new pipe that gave clearance to the system.

 

 

The pipe now drops down and over to give the brake equalizer and engine crossmember 2" or so of space.

 

It also angles toward the chassis centerline up front to give the left spring shackle more space as well as the drain tube for the carb drip pan (not installed yet).

 

I pulled it out after tacking it together and tomorrow I'll weld the seams and clean it up.

 

 

 

[Lahti35]

I spent the afternoon welding and smoothing the new exhaust pipe. Tedious work but it looks nice when done. I had to made a run to the store to get some welding wire when I ran out, holy crap the price of that stuff went up... Ouch! I used the mig to weld the seams and it leaves them none to pretty.

 

After cleaning them with a 120g flapper wheel and some 60 grit sanding...

 

All finished up!

 

It worked out well, The pipe was just short enough to get it in/out of it's home without much drama, any longer and it would have been a real pain. I connected up the muffler with the new clamp with ease. I really like these clamps, very sturdy!

 

All fastened down and ready for the road.

 

 

Next up I've got to get the transmission output shaft flange to the machine shop for some repair work to true the face that connects to the U-joint. 

I'm going to pull the water pump as soon as the radiator gets back and start to deal with the rotten outlet tube. I'd like to finish up most of what I'm working on now before I start into new stuff. Luckily as of now there isn't much left besides trans and driveshaft buttoning up. I'm starting to see a light at the end of the tunnel...

 

[31nash880]

Looking nice. I enjoy following your thread. Also appreciate the advice and info you have supplied on my project. 

 

[Lahti35]

Early this week I was able to stop by the lock shop I had dropped the now unfrozen transmission lock off for a key to be made. They were able to make me a set of keys! They were very interested in how it locked the transmission... He warned me that I might have a pin sticking yet inside the lock so I figured I'd  blast it with some carb cleaner at home but I was out. Instead I pressed the rubber tip of an air gun into the lower opening and gave it 100psi. Out shot a nasty old goober/bug junk and the sticking pin was gone, works like a treat now and I have two full sets of keys. For anyone with a Nash transmission lock of this era it takes a Briggs and Stratton B5 key. 

 

Now that the lock was ready to go I finished cleaning the shift fork stuff in preparation of install.

 

The trans lock secures the shift arms only in the neutral position. I had been toying with the idea on carving a new notch in 1st gear so the car can't roll when locked. I'm not sure if I'll use it much but now was the time so I installed the lock and the 1st/Reverse shift arms and marked where I needed to cut. 

 

I screwed up the first cut, made it too wide so I welded it back up smoothed it over and cut a new one.

 

After that I assembled the shifter mechanism and tested all the gears and the locking positions to make sure everything was OK.

 

 

Now that I could lock it in 1st or Neutral It was time to install the top cover assembly. 

 

I used some thin ultra black on the underside of the shifter cover to glue the cork gasket I cut into place.

 

 

It went into place with little fuss along with the parking brake bracket at the rear. I tightened it just enough to let the ultra black cure before I fully tighten it down after 24 hours. I'll have to decide on lube for the transmission now, I had intended to use 600w just to keep things simple but the jury is still out on that...

 

Now we're getting somewhere, it's starting to look like a car in there again!

 

The last project of the day was to install the shifter and adjust the shift fork detent tension. Each fork detent is held in place by a retaining system at each side of the trans case. There is a ball bearing followed by a cylinder piece, then a spring, and finally a threaded plug with flats for a wrench and a lock nut.  Turning them in/out reduces or increases pressure on the detent.

 

I played around with it for a short while to get it to a tension I liked and locked them down. It was nice to sit in the Nash and be able to shift. It's been some months since that was possible.

 

Up next is dropping the transmission output shaft flange off at the machine shop to get the face trued and picking up the radiator. I got the call Friday on the rad so I'll make the drive to Ferndale Wednesday afternoon. My cowl lacing also showed up to replace the old stuff on both the cowl and radiator shell. I have to take the hood off again to put the radiator back in so I'll replace the lacing then.