Walter Jones

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I wish shipping wasn't so expensive I would buy this just to have the spare parts. The transmission in my car works ok but in 3rd it acts like it would like to jump out of gear. I have a complete untested spare that looks good as far as I can tell from just taking the top off but who knows how it will work. I'm not going to Hershey but will go to Pate at Texas Motor Speedway next spring.

I agree the story was a lot better to read than it was for Jack to experience. Some people are better as enemies than friends. There was a fellow that loaned out his nice car trailer and when he tried to get it back the guy always had a excuse, he had a car on it, it was blocked in yada yada. After about a year or so the borrower called the owner and told him needed to get his junky old trailer off his property or he was going to sell it for scrap. When he went and got it the trailer was a piece of junk.

Am I missing something here? Did Bob ask anyone to loan them a manifold then install it and pay for the parts

Might be these. They are also available from Logo lights. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Focused-Beam-LED-Headlight-Bulb-6-12-Volt-Positive-Or-Negative,499964.html

Chet is a good guy and has helped me on a number of projects. The good thing about his site is its just model Q&U's The bad thing is that its just Q&U's so it doesn't get enough traffic. If your 29U sedan just needs rings they may not be available. Egge has pistons that use a more modern ring package. If it needs to be bored it can actually be done with the motor in the car with a old style boring bar. The hard part is getting the old studs out of the block without twisting them off and cleaning out all the cuttings and honeing material with the crank & cam still intact. If it needs new babbit Its a lot bigger job! They used to have a crank grinder that would do the rods with the block in the car. If the mains were damaged it had to come out of course. How did we get from headlights for sale to fixing motors? I don't know but the headlights are sitting in my garage so I guess it doesn't matter.

The wheel thing makes me laugh! Over 90 years later and what do most car nuts do when they get a new car? Change the wheels of course! I have heard several opinions about our bumpers. One that they are Model A bumpers, I don't think so since they don't look like any A I have seen. Another is that a lot of the dealers put on bumpers that they sold. Well maybe so, I worked at a Ford dealership in the 70's and the customer had several rear bumpers to pick from. Whatever they are they are shiny and look good so I'm not looking to change them. Our car was not a barn find that sat unmolested for decades. It has more hard miles on it than a New York taxi cab. The steel clutch pedal is worn nearly smooth. The shaft that the clutch & brake pivot on shows quite a bit of wear. The spring hangers had already been replaced at least once and the bushings were completely gone on the load side. The block looks to have had sleeves installed and is .060 over again. It is on at least its third starter ring. See the drag link hanging down in the car above? Either the touring was different or ours has been changed out to one that has ends like the tie rods, and its pretty worn. To me this is a testament as to how tough these cars are and how well they held up under some very harsh operating conditions. Its hard miles days are over but its still not going to be a garage queen.

How about trying to polish the parts that rub with buffing compound after sanding them smooth. Do you have a buffing wheel? I would try to make them to as close to a mirror finish as I could. Is there a way you could drill & tap it for a grease zerk. Then maybe you could give it a shot of grease every once in a while without taking it apart. Just a couple of ideas that popped into my head not anything I have tried.

Thank you!

I was told that the POC has 13 serial numbers in their database 6 are in the US. He said there were probably another dozen or so in Australia that they don't have info on.

I would be interested if I can afford it.

I know quite a few of the parts have been changed over the years. I am slowly getting it back closer to the way it should look even if its not perfect. The picture I posted was taken before we bought it. I have since installed the correct radiator and am in the process of getting the engine back to looking somewhat correct. It was John Deer green & blue painted over silver and black. It has a plastic steering wheel which I am replacing along with a nice tight steering sector. I am still looking for a light switch lever and a clum switch and a horn ( I have the bracket) I won't be going to Hershey its way too far from N. Texas.

I bought them. PA PB both? I have no idea but they are going on my model U. Are they correct? I doubt it but they are a lot closer than what is on it. It now has painted lights with the bucket shaped like Madonna and just a clear lens. These are chrome & shaped more like Dolly and have Twilite lenses which I think might even be correct for a 29.

I found it! It was on a different forum! Getting old and loosing your memory sucks!

I was looking through some posts on here and I saw a beautifully restored 6 cylinder Plymouth engine for sale. I don't need the engine but I was going to look at some of the details again and I can't find it. I have been looking off and on for a week! Its good anyway but I am am about to give up.

I bought this wheel from pkhammer awhile back. We were at our local trades day and my wife ask a fellow who had some homemade wood things for sale if he would like to tackle a steering wheel. He said he would try and this is what we got back a month later. I was very pleased and to make it better he is a disabled veteran.

Dorman 675-013 fits my 29 U. They are available in a box of 10. I don't know where to find original nuts. Modern 7/16 X 20 nuts are 11/16 and the nuts on the Plymouth are 3/4.

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I made my own clutch alignment tool for our 29 Plymouth. I thought I had a picture of just the tool but I can't find it. I found a piece of dowel rod that fit in the end of the PVC and in the pilot bushing. Duct tape can be used to tighten up the clearances if necessary.

The spring he is talking about is a spring that hooks in a little tab in the throwout bearing on one end and to the back of the bellhousing on the other. I've never seen another clutch with one. The one on our car had pulled loose and was just hanging. The clutch in the car he has is nothing like yours or any other clutch I have worked on. Each finger is adjustable and that's how you adjust the free travel not by the linkage. Its weighted but I thought the weights made it engage harder not pull away like he describes. Our clutch was like his and in bad shape. I sent it to Kentucky Clutch and they sent me back one that is more like a regular Long style. It fits and works so that's what we have now. You are probably fine to start yours since its entirely different or at least I hope so.

I can't find the original post but here is a reference to it. Actually I may disappoint you here. I have used a spring in the past only to find it missing when in the clutch area again. After my clutch explosion caused by centrifugal force moving the clutch arms outward without a throw out bearing to stop them, I decided that I would ensure and equal adjustment of the arms and forget the spring. I am not recommending anything just stating what I did and will live with the consequences. Yes the spring helps move the bearing away from the arms but I think the arms will find the bearing anyway. My 2.5 cents.

There was a fellow on another forum that started his Plymouth with just the clutch and it was a disaster, ruining the clutch. Be careful doing that.

Thank You Phil that is the kind of info I was looking for. Is there a way I could get some pictures? I wonder if ours is in that 5. I am guessing it is as Jim Benjaminson told me in a email that it was at one time registered to a man in Mystic Connecticut. At some point it was sold to the Precious Moments museum in Carthage Missouri. They downsized in I believe 2007 and sold it. The people we bought it from bought it from Lone Star Muscle Cars in Wichita Falls Texas in 2013. Maybe I'll learn more from the Plymouth Club. I joined but haven't heard anything. I guess they use snail mail and send a packet or something.

I have a Plymouth Master Parts List Final Edition Issued April 1 1934 by Chrysler Motors parts Corp. It calls our car a Phaeton I also have a Plymouth Instruction book fifth edition May 1929 Issued by Plymouth Motor Corp. It calls our car a Touring. Even back then they didn't know what to call it.