JV Puleo Posted February 27, 2022 Share Posted February 27, 2022 That would be a HUGE mistake. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1912Staver Posted February 27, 2022 Share Posted February 27, 2022 It's a very bad idea to sandblast / beadblast anything that isn't a individual part. The grit residue gets into everywhere and will cause no end of problems down the road. You would need to completely dismantle a Magneto and then VERY carefully, lightly beadblast corroded parts. Not a good idea unless you are very experienced both with magneto's and beadblasting. Way too much possibly of doing more harm than good. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted February 28, 2022 Share Posted February 28, 2022 Here's a link to a publication called the Power Wagon from 1913. There's a lot of adds for White there. I could spend hours looking. Dandy Dave! Power Wagon - Google Books 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted February 28, 2022 Share Posted February 28, 2022 Digging though some more documents I have I found a better parts list of the lower steering column parts. It clearly shows the part you need. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted February 28, 2022 Share Posted February 28, 2022 The other part of the list. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted March 1, 2022 Share Posted March 1, 2022 (edited) An instruction and parts book I have for my truck is a copy from, Western Reserve Historical Society. https://www.wrhs.org/ They will make you copies of whatever they have in their collection for a fee per page. Looking though the collection that is online I found this for the Model 20 Truck. Box 10. Folder 43. Model 20, White Two-Ton Chassis, instruction book and parts list and photograph 1920-1925. Here is a link to the page I found the manual on. There are several other references to the Model 20. Rated as a Two Ton Truck. Finding aid for the White Motor Company Records and Photographs (wrhs.org) This will cover your truck as it was the same from 1915-1925. It is good info to have and keep with the truck. Either call or email them George. They were very helpful. Dandy Dave! Edited March 1, 2022 by Dandy Dave (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted March 1, 2022 Share Posted March 1, 2022 (edited) Cam Shaft and compression release. This should help you see how it works. Looks like a spring push's the cam back after the lever is released so there would be some pressure to engage it. Also shows a cam shaft without the release. Dandy Dave! Edited March 1, 2022 by Dandy Dave (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted March 2, 2022 Share Posted March 2, 2022 On 2/27/2022 at 2:31 PM, 17White said: Does it hurt to sandblast a magneto if you protect the end cap? No free lunch in the world of White car or truck restoration. About the only thing on the truck that is easy to replace is the magneto..........read my 1917 car thread here.......it took months just to make it go down the road. Shortcuts will bite you........first rule of thumb.......do no harm. When you have to make everything from scratch that gets damaged, ruined, or has gone missing.......it gets very expensive and time consuming. Slow and steady wins the race. If you need any help.......pm or call me. 👍 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted March 2, 2022 Share Posted March 2, 2022 (edited) 10 hours ago, edinmass said: No free lunch in the world of White car or truck restoration. About the only thing on the truck that is easy to replace is the magneto..........read my 1917 car thread here.......it took months just to make it go down the road. Shortcuts will bite you........first rule of thumb.......do no harm. When you have to make everything from scratch that gets damaged, ruined, or has gone missing.......it gets very expensive and time consuming. Slow and steady wins the race. If you need any help.......pm or call me. 👍 Yes. Totally agree. Even with a machine, and fabrication shop at my disposal it is always best to save original parts if at all possible. And it is better to keep the vehicle as original as possible in the process. Quick, dirty and rammy is usually counterproductive. It takes a lot of time to reproduce parts made from unobtanium. You have my number also George. You can also call me anytime for encouragement. Making and restoring stuff as of late has been difficult for me because of health issues. Dandy Dave. Edited March 2, 2022 by Dandy Dave (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LI_BENTLEY Posted March 2, 2022 Share Posted March 2, 2022 Note the movable cam has wide lobes and the non movable cam has narrow lobes. Drawing does not show the 1/2 lobe on back of exhaust lobe for opening the valve on 1/2 compression stroke. The White utilized roller lifters so has narrow contact on cam allowing this system to work. White also did not use an impulse on the mag so best to spin the crank for strong spark, the compression release enables this. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
17White Posted March 5, 2022 Author Share Posted March 5, 2022 I have been trying to get information from Western Reserve Historical Society but have had no luck. At least they haven't answered my emails. Maybe just that busy. The diagrams Dandy Dave posted has been most helpful but I was hoping for more from the society. I am guessing that Box 10 folder 43 has what I need although I don't think it is available on the net/webpage. Do you need to go there in person to get the information or am I just not looking in the right online place? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted March 6, 2022 Share Posted March 6, 2022 16 hours ago, 17White said: I have been trying to get information from Western Reserve Historical Society but have had no luck. At least they haven't answered my emails. Maybe just that busy. The diagrams Dandy Dave posted has been most helpful but I was hoping for more from the society. I am guessing that Box 10 folder 43 has what I need although I don't think it is available on the net/webpage. Do you need to go there in person to get the information or am I just not looking in the right online place? Here's a phone number. 216-721-5722. Call them. I think that is what I did 4 or 5 years ago. Most likely they are short on help like everywhere else since covid. You may get a faster responds. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LI_BENTLEY Posted March 7, 2022 Share Posted March 7, 2022 Foun this in some factory info Took a look at some factory info and found this 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted March 7, 2022 Share Posted March 7, 2022 3 hours ago, LI_BENTLEY said: Foun this in some factory info Took a look at some factory info and found this The fractions on the bore are a little fuzzy. Can they be made clearer? Dandy Dave! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted March 8, 2022 Share Posted March 8, 2022 (edited) I like the White Engines chart..........especially because it doesn’t call them out as cars or trucks. Just as model or series nomenclature. I’m certain that all the engines that we knows as “car” or “truck” were used in any application that the customer or manufacturer desired. There were six cylinder cars built, as well as trucks. Also, the 16 Valve Four was not exclusively a car engine as some small and mid sized fire trucks used them. As far as the right had drive versus the left hand drive coinciding with the cone to disk clutch changeover.......that information was given to me by two gentleman who’s family has and still is driving and collecting White cars and trucks. Everyone I have come across on the “White Journey” I have undertaken has been exceptionally helpful in information, paperwork, and publications. Never met a better bunch of antique vehicle people. I have a correct replacement carburetor coming for the 1915 White car this week........complements of a friend/dealer. And at a very reasonable price. My “correct spare” carb that came with the 1917 car turned out to not be correct.......gee.....it bolts in place, it MUST be correct. Homey don’t play that game. Seems most 16 Valve Four engines have had their carbs swapped out.......except my 1917 which has the White manufactured “in house” barrel valve unit on it. It works fine......but it dumps fuel like Exxon Valdez. Very busy week coming up after getting back from Amelia........hope to find some time for the White cars..........we have a bunch of stuff lined up to get fixed. Edited March 11, 2022 by edinmass (see edit history) 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LI_BENTLEY Posted March 8, 2022 Share Posted March 8, 2022 5 hours ago, LI_BENTLEY said: Foun this in some factory info Took a look at some factory info and found this This is a tissue carbon copy typed in 1919 Zoom out a little to read. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LI_BENTLEY Posted March 8, 2022 Share Posted March 8, 2022 42 minutes ago, LI_BENTLEY said: This is a tissue carbon copy typed in 1919 Zoom out a little to read. founds this lamp info. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LI_BENTLEY Posted March 8, 2022 Share Posted March 8, 2022 (edited) 6 minutes ago, LI_BENTLEY said: found this truck info. Some more truck info. Edited March 8, 2022 by LI_BENTLEY new info (see edit history) 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted March 8, 2022 Share Posted March 8, 2022 Great stuff...........thanks for posting. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walt G Posted March 8, 2022 Share Posted March 8, 2022 Most interesting to read all of this , no I do not own a White car or truck although this is making me appreciate them even more then I did before. Only White parts I have is the cast iron factory hub wrench and the upper 3/4 of a cast alloy radiator shell, both found and bought at one of Austin Clark's Iron Range Days 45+ years ago. Sincere appreciate and thanks to all who are contributing to this , it gives all of us a greater understanding of what a quality car and truck White produced. Walt 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted March 9, 2022 Share Posted March 9, 2022 (edited) A few Photos I have commandeered from the "Power Wagon" 1912. Edited March 9, 2022 by Dandy Dave (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted March 9, 2022 Share Posted March 9, 2022 More Photos. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted March 17, 2022 Share Posted March 17, 2022 (edited) I got to drive the 30 hp blue White today that was the subject of the thread. Here is the shifter. Totally different feel and experience compared to my GL series. Edited March 18, 2022 by edinmass (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
17White Posted March 17, 2022 Author Share Posted March 17, 2022 Finally got the venturi from the machinist and started working on the carburetor. Can you lap the needle and seat to repair it or do you have to get a new one? Always have gotten a new needle and seat before but with limited availability of parts thought I might need to repair what I've got. Never tried this before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted March 17, 2022 Share Posted March 17, 2022 (edited) 😎 Edited March 18, 2022 by edinmass (see edit history) 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted March 18, 2022 Share Posted March 18, 2022 (edited) 16 hours ago, 17White said: Finally got the venturi from the machinist and started working on the carburetor. Can you lap the needle and seat to repair it or do you have to get a new one? Always have gotten a new needle and seat before but with limited availability of parts thought I might need to repair what I've got. Never tried this before. I've lapped in needles in the past. If it does not leak when it is seated, it will not need lapping. Install it with the float. Flip it over so the weight of the float is on it and try to blow though the feed line. If you can't, it is good to go. Dandy Dave. Edited March 18, 2022 by Dandy Dave (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted March 18, 2022 Share Posted March 18, 2022 Almost every part on a 1917 White car or truck is serviceable. They were designed to be repaired without having parts on hand.......so most of the components in the carb can be cleaned up and reused. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted March 18, 2022 Share Posted March 18, 2022 In the believe it or not category, this cam in to my old shop Tuesday. The customer said the car was rebuilt last year...........it had an incorrect needle installed, and this is exactly how it arrived. Take a look at the distributor.........I shit you not, this actually was sent to us with a running problem...........how much is it to fix it? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter R. Posted March 18, 2022 Share Posted March 18, 2022 1 hour ago, edinmass said: Take a look at the distributor....... Freshly restored 25 years ago....😄 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
17White Posted March 19, 2022 Author Share Posted March 19, 2022 Looks like a running when parked project. The problem with the carb on the truck was it flooded due to needle not cutting off the gas flow. I cleaned it up so I'll see what happens when I test it using Dave's method. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted March 19, 2022 Share Posted March 19, 2022 8 hours ago, edinmass said: In the believe it or not category, this cam in to my old shop Tuesday. The customer said the car was rebuilt last year...........it had an incorrect needle installed, and this is exactly how it arrived. Take a look at the distributor.........I shit you not, this actually was sent to us with a running problem...........how much is it to fix it? Whatever an hour plus parts. If you have to ask, You can't afford it. Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarryLime Posted March 19, 2022 Share Posted March 19, 2022 Wait..........What ! The distributor cap is gone . Same with the carburetor..........top is gone ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
17White Posted March 23, 2022 Author Share Posted March 23, 2022 What is the initial mixture setting on a U5 carburetor? Lapped the needle and seat, made the gaskets and I think it's ready to go (I hope). I usually set them about 1 to 1 1/2 turns open from completely closed but have never done a U5 on a truck before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted March 23, 2022 Share Posted March 23, 2022 2 hours ago, 17White said: What is the initial mixture setting on a U5 carburetor? Lapped the needle and seat, made the gaskets and I think it's ready to go (I hope). I usually set them about 1 to 1 1/2 turns open from completely closed but have never done a U5 on a truck before. The book I have here gives no info on the initial adjustment. However, on my truck I adjusted it to about a turn and a quarter. On these carburetors screwing in richens the mixture. Screwing out leans the mixture. Opposite of most carburetors as you are adjusting air into the mix instead of fuel. Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
17White Posted April 18, 2022 Author Share Posted April 18, 2022 Gone over the pages of the engine compression release posted by Dandy Dave. How can I see the camshaft without pulling the engine apart. I need to see if the cam is currently pushed forward and stuck. I have not yet pulled the oil pan or the side panel on the intake side of the engine. I would like to know a little more about what's on the other side before pulling the side cover. It appears to be just a cover but don't want any surprises. There seems to be a space between the camshaft and the piece that pushes it forward leading me to believe the cam is stuck forward in the compression release position. I can move the actuator arm on the back of the engine 1/4 to 1/2 inch before it contacts the cam. If I can see the position of the cam and lifters I might be able to figure it out. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted April 18, 2022 Share Posted April 18, 2022 (edited) Just do a compression test………..it cuts it in half……….when running it automatically goes back to running position unless you flip the handle 270 degrees. My car has a heel lever also. Not sure if the trucks have the in the cab release. Edited April 18, 2022 by edinmass (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
17White Posted April 18, 2022 Author Share Posted April 18, 2022 Will turning it over with the crank make the cam go back or do you have to have it running before it will go back? No compression dry. Will try again with a little oil in cylinder spark plug hole. Another thing I'm not used to is that when looking in the spark plug hole you cannot see the piston. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted April 18, 2022 Share Posted April 18, 2022 On the car engine, it has to be running before it goes back into position as long as you don’t lock it open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
17White Posted April 18, 2022 Author Share Posted April 18, 2022 No heel release I can find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
17White Posted April 18, 2022 Author Share Posted April 18, 2022 OK, I'll have to wait until I start putting everything back together to start it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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