17White

I found that most new light fixtures are 12v 16-18 awg. 6 volts pulls twice as many amps as 12 volt so I wanted to be able to convert a 12v new fixture over to 6v and would need heavier gauge possibly 14 gauge wire. That way the lights would have the same brightness. I am putting fender turn signals on a '49 Ford F-6. Turn signals didn't come on these trucks.

14 awg wire for 6v and 16-18 for 12v. Most I find have only 16-18 awg wire. I have not been able to find them for 6v.

Looking for a source for a light repair kit with 12 - 14 awg wire for a 6v system. I have found quite a few sources for 12 socket repair kits but no 6 volt .

Found 3 of the lights. Appreciate the feedback though. Don't currently have a photo but can get one if you need one. Thanks for the help.

I need a PMCO 112 cab light for a truck.

Yes and no. Like the cap but I need one with male end because radiator has female neck. Thanks though.

I am still looking for a radiator cap for the White truck. Not having much luck.

Come anytime and we can compare what it was like to how it is now although it is getting harder and harder for me to keep up.

ED, Did you have time to look into the radiator cap? Still trying to find something.

Thanks Dave. Before long I'll have the complete book copied. Now if I could just read.

Thanks Dave. The diagrams really help especially with the oil system and oil pump. Does your book also have a diagram of the carburetor? Don't want to push my luck here though.

Best one I have. The bottom most gear. Have to magnify it.

Got the magneto spark advance linkage hooked up again. Had a new half gear made and it works ok. Still would like an original so it would work like new. Pulled the oil pump. The crankcase looks like new. No sludge at all that I can see. What little oil is in the bottom looks new. Will wipe it out though. Starting to check out the oil pump and lines. Dandy Dave, would you happen to have the parts diagram of the oil pump in you parts book that you could download to the forum? I would like to know what I'm getting into before I start.

Best I can tell it is 2 inches inside tube opening and 16 threads per inch per thread gauge. Threads are inside the tube.

Need 1917 - 1920 White truck magneto spark advance half gear that connects to gear near the end of steering column. The gear at the end of the steering column moves this half gear which is connected to the flat link that moves the mag spark advance.

Looking for an acetylene headlight burner. The only thing I could find on the stem of the burner was Colonia 5-8. Can you only replace the "Y" part of the burner or do you have to replace the stem and all? Are all the burners the same size and exchangeable? Need this for a 1919 White truck.

Are all acetylene headlight burners the same size? I have a broken one and need a new burner. The only thing on the burner is Colonia 5-8. Can you only change to top "Y" part of the burner or have to replace the stem and all?

Rolled the engine over today and it seems to have compression. Had all the spark plugs loose and could hear compression leakage with every pull of the crank so I guess the compression release had come back to the run position. Going to pull the crankcase cover next chance I get and take a look/clean it out. Was quite a relief when I heard compression leakage today. Making some progress on the truck anyway

Ed, I was wondering if you had any luck in finding a radiator cap.

Looking for a radiator cap for a 1919 White truck. Would like one with thermometer but not absolutely necessary.

OK, I'll have to wait until I start putting everything back together to start it.

No heel release I can find.

Will turning it over with the crank make the cam go back or do you have to have it running before it will go back? No compression dry. Will try again with a little oil in cylinder spark plug hole. Another thing I'm not used to is that when looking in the spark plug hole you cannot see the piston.

Gone over the pages of the engine compression release posted by Dandy Dave. How can I see the camshaft without pulling the engine apart. I need to see if the cam is currently pushed forward and stuck. I have not yet pulled the oil pan or the side panel on the intake side of the engine. I would like to know a little more about what's on the other side before pulling the side cover. It appears to be just a cover but don't want any surprises. There seems to be a space between the camshaft and the piece that pushes it forward leading me to believe the cam is stuck forward in the compression release position. I can move the actuator arm on the back of the engine 1/4 to 1/2 inch before it contacts the cam. If I can see the position of the cam and lifters I might be able to figure it out. Any suggestions?

What is the initial mixture setting on a U5 carburetor? Lapped the needle and seat, made the gaskets and I think it's ready to go (I hope). I usually set them about 1 to 1 1/2 turns open from completely closed but have never done a U5 on a truck before.