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55 Buick Special lower control arm welded to shock absorber


M1842

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Working on the driver side brake and while under the car noticed what looked like mud on the bottom of the control arm where the shock absorber bolts on.  As part of my brake job I want to replace the front shocks.  Tried knocking the mud off and I saw that the buildup it is metallic.   Further investigation shows that a large part of the plate that the shock absorber bolts to has cracked off and is missing.  Looks like the last person to look at the shock decided to weld it to the lower control arm since one of the bolt holes was gone.  So I am in the market for a lower control arm now. I will take a picture of it later.

Edited by M1842 (see edit history)
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The front lower control arms are the same from 1954 thru 1956 All series, French Lake auto parts Annandale MN (320-274-8497) has either side in stock for $50.00 each , if you let me know where your located I can see if any are closer to you.

 

Bob

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  • M1842 changed the title to 55 Buick Special lower control arm welded to shock absorber

The redneck engineering people will do to keep a car on the road never ceases to amaze me.

 

That said, I once started teardown on a young friend's Chevy 327 and found some yahoo had welded the harmonic balancer to the crankshaft. So a simple refresh turned into a parts hunt. If that engine had not been original to that Camaro I'd have chunked the whole works.

 

Some people should not be allowed near a welding rig.👨‍🏭

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I am going to have to get that shock out before taking the control arm off.  I am going to try a sledge hammer first, hoping the quality of the weld is not good.  I don't have a cutting torch so my next step will the angle grinder to cut the welds out.

 

 

Mark

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Welding when you should not is not new.  A friend's folks ran a service station on US90 near San Antonio and back in the early 1960's. A ragged 54 Skylark (the first and only one I saw until car shows much later) pulled in with left rear flat tire.  The tire had worn through to the inner tube and the edge of the rim (wire wheel) had some edge damage.  Looking closely the wheel had been welded to the brake drum and hub.  A used replacement tire and tube was installed with the car on a lift.  The driver was moving from California to Florida and said that the wheel came off in Arizona and had to have an emergency repair since no lug bolts were available.  Driving away there was obvious wobble and hop on that wheel.

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So I have my new control arm now and I am wondering if I should go ahead and replace the lower control arm bushings before I install the unit.  The arm came from a junk yard in Wisconsin and is very clean and but there is noticeable play of the shaft inside the bushings.  When the lower shaft is parallel to the floor I can left the shaft upwards inside the bushings.  I can't move the shaft forward or backward through the bushings.  The shaft will turn through about 120 degrees of rotation and then stops.

 

Lube it up and install or buy a new shaft and bushings first?

 

Mark

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On 12/1/2021 at 2:29 PM, old-tank said:

Welding when you should not is not new. 

Just a light touch of weld sealed the end of a folded over brake line to make a really nice plug. I screwed it into the rear junction block to avoid running a new line to the wheel cylinder, probably took equal work. But seemed like a good idea at the time. Back in 1974 I used to pull "brand new" brake lines off the rearend pile at the junkyard to have some stock on hand. Ran out that week. My wife/girlfriend never even knew we spent a weekend in the Adirondacks with brakes on only one side of the car.

 

Fifty years later she knows I still have a tendency to "compensate".

 

 

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  • 1 month later...
On 12/9/2021 at 7:19 PM, avgwarhawk said:

Replace the bushing now. Save headache, heartache and muscle aches taking it apart after discovering the bushings are toast. 

I finally got the lower inner arm shaft taken apart.  I had to find my vice and mount it to my work table then had to go buy a 1 1/4" socket. Used my 24" breaker bar and the bushings came out with a little muscle.  Both bushings have a worn spot on the outside threads, it is parallel to the bushings, about 3/16" wide and crosses all the threads almost down to the bottom of the thread.  I am assuming this is wear and not some kind of intentional machining.  The shaft looks good on both ends as do the inner threads on the bushing.

 

Mark

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  • 4 weeks later...

I finished up my work on the new lower control arm.  I put it back together with new bushings, grease seals, and new rubber bumper.  I should have taken pictures of my setup to get the shaft back in.  I used two bar spreader/clamps to move the ends of the arm apart.  Put a bolt through one of the shaft bolts with about an inch sticking up.  Then placed a large socket on the end to allow the shaft to move down as far as needed.  Used a clamp on the bolt and socket to move shaft enough to clear the other end and get both ends of the shaft into the bushing holes.  After that, it was easy to add the bushings and torque to 100 ft/lbs.  Then add zerk fittings and grease the bushings.

 

It worked well and in a controlled fashion, too.  Impressed the wife and demonstrated that i need and use my tools.  Sometimes in unorthodox manners!

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Thought I would post a picture of the offending shock absorber where it is welded onto the control arm.  Welds look too solid to me to break off with a cold chisel so I am back to the angle grinder with a metal cutting disk.

 

Mark

20220227_150453_001_saved.jpg

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I would like to see a picture of that shock once it is out. The bracket is real interesting.

 

My early years were spent with many from a generation proud to announce :

"We Have Done So Much with So Little for So Long, that Now We Can Do Anything with Nothing"

Looking back I realize that today I am the culmination of all the people I did not want to become.

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18 hours ago, M1842 said:

Thought I would post a picture of the offending shock absorber where it is welded onto the control arm.  Welds look too solid to me to break off with a cold chisel so I am back to the angle grinder with a metal cutting disk.

 

Mark

20220227_150453_001_saved.jpg

That is the original shock mounting hardware held to the control arm by 2 bolts that probably broke trying to remove.

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  • 2 months later...

I have started to cut the welds on the shock.  The one side of the shock was easy and I could cut through the bracket away from the weld.  The other bracket is covered in weld, I have it about halfway cut out now.  Wonder if it would have been easier to cut the plate on the control arm since it is getting replaced too.

 

Mark

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  • 1 month later...

A good day working on the Buick, finally got the welded shock cut out and off the car. As expected the shock was inoperable,  just like the other side.  I compressed the coil spring and unscrewed the outer lower pin.  The I realized I needed to disconnect the tie rod end from the steering arm.  Should have a tool coming tomorrow to disconnect the tie rod.  Also reinstalled the front sway bar with new bushings and links 

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Got the tie rod end separated and it is dry as a bone and offers no resistance  to movement.  So guess I will add that to the list of parts.  And plan on doing the other side, too.

 

 

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Today I installed the new control arm, next will be fitting the coil spring and installing the lower pin in the steering knuckle.   Nice to be putting stuff back together.  I won't have any time to work on the car until Monday at the earliest, though.  An hour a day will get me there.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/28/2022 at 10:06 AM, 60FlatTop said:

I would like to see a picture of that shock once it is out. The bracket is real interesting.

 

My early years were spent with many from a generation proud to announce :

"We Have Done So Much with So Little for So Long, that Now We Can Do Anything with Nothing"

Looking back I realize that today I am the culmination of all the people I did not want to become.

This picture shows the 2 front shocks, one as it should be, the other that was welded. 

20220716_102427.jpg

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