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1970s two-door sag - tips for stopping it, repairing it, etc.


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If you have a bigger coupe you are probably seeing the doors sagging, and maybe not closing perfectly. Got any tips on what you can do to slow that down, or how to fix it when it gets too bad?

Edited by Golden73 (see edit history)
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The only fix is to replace the hinge pins and bushings. This is not unusual. Replacement parts are readily available. You can slow it down by ensuring that the hinges are always well lubricated. I like to use white lithium grease in the spray can.

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Have done this a few times. Getting the hinge off is the hardest part. Get a spring compressor and the replacement bushings and pins are available at NAPA or online. They usually sell a universal kit.  Take the spring out, cut the old pin out using a small cut off wheel in a die grinder. Then you can knock out what is left. Find a bushing thats close, drill out the the elongated hole in the hinge. Insert bushing, put the new pin back in. Spring goes in last and viola! Your doors will be happy again. I run the hinges through my blast cabinet and put a new coat of paint on whilst theyre out. If you dont do that you can have the job done in a half hour. 

 

Use a floor jack to support the door when you take the hinge off - One at a time-.  I have seen some guys with an engine hoist rig up a strap and hang the door from overhead as well.

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5 hours ago, joe_padavano said:

You can slow it down by ensuring that the hinges are always well lubricated.

Door, hood and trunk lid hinge lubrication is one of the most commonly ignored maintenance services on ALL vehicles, regardless of make, model or year.

Even on those owned and operated by so-called "car guys" (and/or their mechanics).

Edited by TTR (see edit history)
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A noise that really hurts my feelings: a squeaky hinge. That's metal-on-metal, folks, and the same folks who would never tolerate it with anything else mechanical will let that thing squeak...and grind away that little brass bushing. White grease is your friend. While you're at it, spray that latch really well, and check the condition of the striker. Some use a nylon bushing that wears away and, once gone, that latch just won't clamp correctly. 

 

My Dad used to say that a lot of those doors really needed three hinges, and he was right.

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Spray grease is quicker, and no need to get a drill into a hard to access place. 

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43 minutes ago, trini said:

How about drilling a hole in the pin and cross holes for pouring oil in ?

Kind of like these, except they’re lubed with grease gun using a special tip that slides over the brass grease fittings ?
I produce them in “standard” and “oversize”, although not for OPs application.

 

0500B959-6EE7-465B-BE4B-E45CD8E4AB45.jpeg
 

EBBDFC71-39E4-4993-9251-C5693C9A662E.jpeg

Edited by TTR (see edit history)
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Another suggestion: In my opinion, if you're working on a big coupe with really heavy doors - like an old Lincoln or something - don't let the doors hang open for long periods of time. Most people don't but if you're refurbishing an interior it could happen. People get get sidetracked from their project and come out to the garage four months later to find they've left a door open.

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T T R  you have it correct. May be you should  make for customers. The portion on the car is sometimes welded to the A pillar. In that case use a suitable drill bit and drill that hole out first. To smoothen that hole out wrap a piece of sand paper on a drill bit and run through with an electric drill. Then measure the hole for the pin size.  

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I have faced this situation several times with my 1989 Camaro. Big, heavy doors. Get a door spring compressor and a hinge pin remover (both items are under $10). Get good quality hinge pins - either OEM or a recognized restoration catalog.

 

Check out YouTube for how to do it. I also used a hydraulic jack to hold the door up and relieve the pressure on the hinge pin.

 

Shouldn't take you more than 90 minutes for both sides.

 

And use white lithium grease to lube the hinge pins. Works great.

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2 hours ago, trini said:

T T R … May be you should  make for customers.

As I mentioned, I do reproduce & sell them (two sets last week), but they’re for very limited market and fairly labor intensive to make (Made in Riverside, CA).
Fortunately (for me), most cars with them have their originals in pretty bad shape, especially the brass grease fittings, as they were usually heavy-handedly hammered in to place and therefor rendered “non-serviceable” already at the “factory” or more specially, at their coach builders plant.

Edited by TTR (see edit history)
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In the bad old days of the 70s and 80s I flipped a lot of cars with a quick and dirty approach to many repairs. My fix for sagging doors was a 2X4 between the door and lower hinge panel and a few hard slams, worked every time. And surprisingly on a few cars I kept (like my recent 63 Starfire) that fix lasted a long time! YMMV...

3.JPG

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