R Walling Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 I have installed a complete brake system on my 48. Steel lines, hoses, MC, Wheel cylinders and I blead R.R, L,R and the R, F, no problem! But I can't get any fluid to pass into the L. F. cylinders. The steel line is clear, the new hose is clear, the Cylinders do not have anything in them(I took them apart to ck). The metal piece in the clyinder that holds the rubber seems to bottom out over the inlet holes. I only get a few drops out of the upper bleeder. I have tried two different new cylinders and no luck. The shoes are centered and adjusted, but still no fluid. Does anyone have any suggestion as to what could be wrong? Thank you, Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 Maybe, leave the line loose or off and try it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 20 minutes ago, TexasJohn55 said: Maybe, leave the line loose or off and try it. I disconnected everything and tested them individually. All passed fluid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryB Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 (edited) Sounds like the brake piston is possibly blocking the hole where the brake fluid line enters the wheel cylinder. If you take the top brake spring off and push the brake pedal does the fluid come out the bleeder? Edited July 14, 2021 by TerryB (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37_Roadmaster_C Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 At this point I would remove, disassemble and compare the LF and the working RF cylinders. It sounds like the piston is blocking the fluid input port. This could be as simple as a misplaced spacer washer or as bad as an improper sleeve. You did not say if the cylinders were sleeved, but if they were there are more things possible. Check EVERYTHING against a known working example. Let us know what you find! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 49 minutes ago, TerryB said: Sounds like the brake piston is possibly blocking the hole where the brake fluid line enters the wheel cylinder. If you take the top brake spring off and push the brake pedal does the fluid come out the bleeder? I will try that. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryB Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 There had been some issues reported with brake cylinders where the rod that pushes against the brake shoe was too long and pushed the brake piston too deep into the cylinder. As 37 Roadie said, compare to a working cylinder. Good luck! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 19 minutes ago, TerryB said: There had been some issues reported with brake cylinders where the rod that pushes against the brake shoe was too long and pushed the brake piston too deep into the cylinder. As 37 Roadie said, compare to a working cylinder. Good luck! I think that that is my exact problem. I will ck the length of my old push rods. Thanks, Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrbartlett Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 Also, sometimes in the case of re-sleeved wheel cylinders the inlet hole on the sleeve is not aligned with the inlet hole in the wheel cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plymouthcranbrook Posted July 15, 2021 Share Posted July 15, 2021 There are at least two different lengths of push rod for that era Plymouths so I would think Chryslers would be the same. Make sure the lengths of the new ones are the same as the original ones. Front cylinders can be difficult at the best of times. I am not sure as I haven’t done mine for several years but I think the lower cylinder needs to be bled first, then the upper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFeeney Posted July 15, 2021 Share Posted July 15, 2021 I would leave the parts out of the wheel cylinder to see if fluid comes in from the brake line inlet port. If it does the problem is in the wheel cylinder parts or as mentioned wrong length brake shoe rod driving the piston back over the port. This is not Rocket Science. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted July 15, 2021 Share Posted July 15, 2021 Is the hole for the bleeder open to the bore? Same for the inlet hole. Does the bleeder screw hole go all the way through? i.e. do the two holes drilled in the bleeder screw meet? If yes, then as above, check for interference of the internal seals to the ports. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted July 15, 2021 Share Posted July 15, 2021 Push rod to piston problem. Use the shorter push rods. Chinese cylinders are also a hope they work problem. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 15, 2021 Share Posted July 15, 2021 (edited) I shortened the push rod 1/8" and they bleed nicely now. Thanks for all the help. I made this simple jig to center the shoes. It is just a long 1/2" bolt welded to a wheel bearing nut with a piece of 1/4" flat stock bent on a 90 degree angle. Edited July 15, 2021 by Roger Walling (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryB Posted July 15, 2021 Share Posted July 15, 2021 I’m really enjoying watching your progress on this car Roger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fossil Posted July 15, 2021 Share Posted July 15, 2021 3 hours ago, Roger Walling said: I made this simple jig to center the shoes. Did you use a large caliper to determine the inside diameter of the drum before setting your gauge? This question is for future reference. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 16, 2021 Share Posted July 16, 2021 12 minutes ago, Fossil said: Did you use a large caliper to determine the inside diameter of the drum before setting your gauge? This question is for future reference. Thanks. No, I set it to fit the shoes slightly larger, and then adjusted them and then used a special brake id. and od. gauge on the drum and made sure that the shoe diameter was a little bit smaller than the inside of the drum. (factory specks are 5 to 6 thousands_ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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