Rodney’s 1963 Buick Skylark convertible

[rodneybeauchamp]

And a touch of bling. A correct Buick remote control mirror. Bought these for my ‘63 Riviera but decided the Skylark was a worthy recipient especially as it wore non Buick mirrors when I bought it. Interesting that the factory fitted the mounting holes on the LHS door but not on the RHS. Used a step drill to cut the large hole for the remote toggle in both the metal panel and the timber trim board. Luckily I removed the LH trim before drilling the RHS so I could place them accurately to look symmetrical.

 

These mirrors are great that they can be used on either side by rotating the front hooded part.

 

Very pleased with the outcome. The top chrome trim on the door panel now fits neatly against the door whereas before there was a large gap. I located some correct nylon retainers for the nails that worked well.

 

RHS mirror needs some minor adjustment as a result of my repair to the ferrule on one wire. Seems all three need to be the same length. Anyway some pictures otherwise it never happened.

 

And some of the weatherstrip from the last post. This is the LH door that never had one. What was the restorer thinking!!!!!🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔 Who knows.

 

Rodney 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊

 

[JohnD1956]

9 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

When completing the sound deadening was trying to figure out what should fit here on the metal panel at the rear of the rear seat. There are a row of round Black plastic clips that appear to hold something but not sure what.

 

Can anyone provide a clue?

 

Pictures below.

Rodney 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊

Is this the area of the rear seat back? The top edge of the area the seat is installed against?  If so, there should be some type of attachment there for the interior edge of the boot. The boot that covers the top when it is down.  Do you have the boot? Can you provide a picture of the edge that goes against the seat back?

[Mark62]

Hi Rodney, they are the clips for the well liner, it protects the convertible  top from sitting on the pump cover and provides a barrier from any items in your trunk. Happy New Year!

[Mark62]

Here is another picture through the back window. The clips behind the seat allow you to remove the liner and access the pump motor from the back seat. The other end is looks like it’s permanently attached underneath the rear top chrome trim. 

[rodneybeauchamp]

Hi Mark,

many thanks. I have only just seen your reply. I shall look and see what is there or not there. Appreciate the photos, again many thanks!

 

In meantime about to become a hydraulics engineer by installing new hydraulic lines and cylinders for the top. Took the pump and cylinders to a hydraulics specialist here (Australia) but they did give me confidence they could make up new lines and repair the cylinders without a drama. So ordered new lines and cylinders plus pump mounting rubbers from Convertible Service. Ordered on the 16th February and arrived today on the 23rd February and so far look good. 
 

Figure new cylinders and hoses should outlast the car for another thirty years or so. 
Rodney 😊😊😊😊😊😊

[Mark62]

You will have years of trouble free with those new cylinders. Mine has the clear lines now too, so you can see the   pump fluid, but you have to be extra careful because they can bend and kink more easily than the originals.

[jensenracing77]

Very nice car! That posi rear end is very rare for these cars. I just picked one up that someone put 3.90 gears in. I plan to put it in my Jetfire for a while to try the 3.90 gears. 

 

Does your glove box door have a decal on the inside about the car having a posi. When a car come with them they would have had this sticker unless it was pulled off. Obviously, yours would have Buick on it 

Edited February 26, 2022 by jensenracing77 (see edit history)

[rodneybeauchamp]

7 hours ago, jensenracing77 said:

Very nice car! That posi rear end is very rare for these cars. I just picked one up that someone put 3.90 gears in. I plan to put it in my Jetfire for a while to try the 3.90 gears. 

 

Does your glove box door have a decal on the inside about the car having a posi. When a car come with them they would have had this sticker unless it was pulled off. Obviously, yours would have Buick on it 

 

Thanks for the compliment. Yes I thought the Posi would be rare for a lower priced Special/Skylark series. No decal in the glovebox and only discovered the Posi when we popped it on the hoist. Had the aluminium tag referring to the oil required. Do you have a blog for your Olds?

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

[jensenracing77]

2 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

 Do you have a blog for your Olds?

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

This just come out this past Monday on it.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EpoRB-3wOu0&t=1459s

I do have a You Tube channel as well. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwetIuNVqbwSzyjKMtDowlQ/videos 

 

[rodneybeauchamp]

Wow, have we made progress. 😊😊😊

 

Connected up the new hoses to the new cylinders and to the pump being careful with the threads and correct tightening (1/4 of a turn) and proceeded to bleed the system of air. Used a good anaerobic thread sealer just to make certain it was leak free on all connections.

 

Watched a great video put out by a Corvette Convertible Top guy that gave a lot of good clues on how this is done. Made sure to rest the motor after a few cycles as it gets warm. I used a heavy wire and held it to make contact rather than the switch.
 

Found best results was when my fluid container (milk bottle) was just below the pump with a shortish hose. Found I could not expel all the air bubbles after cycling the cylinders perhaps fifteen times. However the manual states they will eventually work their way out.

 

After cleaning the motor wire terminals put it back in the car, taping up the lines and clipping them back in as previous. Pump motor mounts gave me some fun so I drilled the holes out to 1/2” otherwise it was never going to seat properly.

 

And the test gave good results first try with no leaks and smooth operation. Pictures tell everything. Below is the set up I used to bench test. As mentioned previously the system came out of the car all connected which made the process much cleaner with no spilt fluid.

 

 

[rodneybeauchamp]

And the rest of the pictures.

 

And had another win, seems the PO had put in the material that joins to the rear panel to form a cradle in which the top folds into but it seems as if it was never joined as there are no corresponding fasteners on the panel. I will sort that soon.

 

 

[rodneybeauchamp]

And look what arrived the other day. Front and rear shockers, winder handle inserts, more trim clips and a correct battery hold down set.

 

Spent the first part of the day fitting the battery hold down which sounds simple but never is. The part that the battery studs hold into on the tray on one side needed to be adjusted as it was slipping out when tightened. This meant taking the tray out and reforming the tang on a thin piece of steel. 
 

While it was out I noticed that the support bracket (see photo) for the tray seemed high and confirmed it by putting a spirit level on the tray. Loosen off the two holding bolts and a few knocks with a hammer and a scrap of timber bought it down to the correct level. Think it was about 1/4” too high to begin with. Another test with the level and bolted it all back together. I know it was only a minor thing but I expect much better battery performance now it is level 😳😳😳

 

Anyway pictures otherwise it never happened. Wires coming from each terminal are for the battery tender.

 

The hold down bracket looks much smarter and is stronger than the universal plastic jigger the PO used.

 

Now for those shockers, but first things first ….. finish off the seat belts and reinstall the rear seat and trim. And maybe take it for a drive. It’s been a while! 😊😊

 

Rodney 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊

 

 

 

Edited March 4, 2022 by rodneybeauchamp
More detail (see edit history)

[rodneybeauchamp]

Well, haven’t posted for a while as I haven’t done much. The seatbelt saga had been fighting me all the way ….. one step forward, two steps backward so I left it alone and focused on putting air adjustable shockers on my Riviera.

 

Anyway back from the Buick Nationals where I got to ride in another ‘63 Skylark convertible (red with white interior) on one of the outings. What was pleasing is that it sounded and rode just like mine 😀😀😀😀

 

What was happening was the courtesy light and wiring in the armrest was fouling the retractor and jamming the mechanism. Lowering the mounting hole to give clearance would not allow the armrest to fit back properly. Solution was to move the hole sideways about 3/8” which worked.

 

Now for the floor mountings. When the floor rust was repaired the U shaped reinforcement was never replaced on one side meaning there was no reference point for the bolt hole. I had previously drilled holes in the side of the tunnel but found the bolts would be hitting the tail shaft. Take two.

 

The answer was staring me in the face when looking at a Motor Trend road test from September 1963 showing a photo of the interior. You can see the location in the bottom centre showing it to one side of the non symmetrical tunnel. Some judicious measuring and checking got them correctly located. And more importantly working properly as they should.

 

Anyway, photos otherwise it never happened. The belts use a small chrome buckle with GM on the press which look the part. And the red webbing looks smart too!
 

And it fired up after laying dormant for a while and took a photo of the gauges in action 😀😀😀😀

 

Now I can focus on fitting the new shockers front and rear and putting some miles on this one 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

[JohnD1956]

4 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

Well, haven’t posted for a while as I haven’t done much. The seatbelt saga had been fighting me all the way ….. one step forward, two steps backward so I left it alone and focused on putting air adjustable shockers on my Riviera.

 

Anyway back from the Buick Nationals where I got to ride in another ‘63 Skylark convertible (red with white interior) on one of the outings. What was pleasing is that it sounded and rode just like mine 😀😀😀😀

 

What was happening was the courtesy light and wiring in the armrest was fouling the retractor and jamming the mechanism. Lowering the mounting hole to give clearance would not allow the armrest to fit back properly. Solution was to move the hole sideways about 3/8” which worked.

 

Now for the floor mountings. When the floor rust was repaired the U shaped reinforcement was never replaced on one side meaning there was no reference point for the bolt hole. I had previously drilled holes in the side of the tunnel but found the bolts would be hitting the tail shaft. Take two.

 

The answer was staring me in the face when looking at a Motor Trend road test from September 1963 showing a photo of the interior. You can see the location in the bottom centre showing it to one side of the non symmetrical tunnel. Some judicious measuring and checking got them correctly located. And more importantly working properly as they should.

 

Anyway, photos otherwise it never happened. The belts use a small chrome buckle with GM on the press which look the part. And the red webbing looks smart too!
 

And it fired up after laying dormant for a while and took a photo of the gauges in action 😀😀😀😀

 

Now I can focus on fitting the new shockers front and rear and putting some miles on this one 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Wow on your craftsmanship!  Very nice work!  Wow also on the test car in that article. A 4speed with factory AC.  Where can I find that article. I would like to read more of that. 

[rodneybeauchamp]

9 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

Wow on your craftsmanship!  Very nice work!  Wow also on the test car in that article. A 4speed with factory AC.  Where can I find that article. I would like to read more of that. 

Hi John,

it came with the car, and was just the pages from the magazine. September 1963 Motor Trend magazine. If you like I can scan a copy (seven pages) and email to you. Just let me know.

 

Craftsmanship? Hmm, seen much better on this forum. I try to do the best I can and unfortunately takes me two or three tries to get it right. Part of the learning process. Appreciate your comment.

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

[rodneybeauchamp]

Well, back from a short outback holiday so no work done. Decided to fit the new rear shockers that I received some time back. Checked them out and were a close match to the crusty units fitted. The old ones still had some stiffness on the upstroke but the down was a tad tired.

 

Like everything on this Buick, a few bolts fought me along the way. One top bolt gave me fight but it undid eventually, 1/8 of a turn at a time. A few seconds on a wire wheel and some oil had it sorted. One issue I found was the top eye spacer tube was a smidge too long and didn’t fit the bracket. A few strokes with a file got them sorted. 
 

No road test until Sunday as it is raining here. And photos otherwise it never happened. 
Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

[EmTee]

Rodney, I like your jack stands; they look very stout and stable with that large, heavy base! 

[rodneybeauchamp]

Thanks Emtee. They are a great asset and the screw up saddle helps get them the right height. Would never be under a car without them. Have another set (different) that are a bit taller so I can support all four corners. And the wide base on these red ones sure keeps them sturdy.

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

[rodneybeauchamp]

Well, I was so pleased about the praise over my Jack stands that I thought I would put them to good use. Tackled the front shockers today which appeared to be an easier task than the rears. But it’s a Buick and is always up to a fight.

 

Getting the RHF out was relatively simple enough but when I compared the replacement with what came out noticed a difference in the top mounting pin. In overall length it was about 1/8” longer and found it refused to fit through the opening in the shock tower. Using a bench grinder was able to reduce the length without problem and even made it pretty with some paint over the bare metal.

 

Take two and it still won’t fit because the ends were square and not rounded off as the originals were. Back to the grinder to reshape the ends and tissy it all up again. Yup now it fits. Torque the fine thread bolts to 20foot pounds top and bottom and side one completed.

 

The shocker I removed seemed to have some life left in it even though it was not pretty and the rubber bushings looked sad. In fact it seemed to offer slightly more resistance in the up stroke (pulling it up) than the replacements.

 

Removing the LHF was a different story, with the bottom pin offset and the resistance much weaker. You can see in the last photo how it no longer extends on its own.

 

Haven’t done a road rest yet (tomorrow) but the shockers feel softish when pushing down (I did prime them a few times before fitting) but they don’t bounce and return to the ride height instantly. Be interested in what ride they give when I take it to our local Coffee N Cars.

 

Will report back. And photos otherwise it never happened 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Rodney

 

PS am still looking for the two rear mouldings that fit over the tail lamps to finish off the rear end. I contemplated making some but I don’t have the equipment needed to. But I might have to if I can’t find them. Sedan, coupe and convertible all use the same mouldings. See last photo 

[old-tank]

Your sway bar links appear to be too loose.

[rodneybeauchamp]

12 hours ago, old-tank said:

Your sway bar links appear to be too loose.

Thank you for your observation. It was on a Jack when the picture was taken but I will investigate. Appears the previous restorer has replaced them but I will recheck and correct.

 

And it’s first outing in a long time. Took an age to start until I realised I had the kill switch on. Least I know that works 🤔🤔🤔🤔

 

It was very quiet and rode smoothly, very soft. Will put a few more miles on it but think it will be nice.. Noticed a funny noise on the cruise we did, sounding like a squealing power steering belt. But it did not sound like it was on the Buick and may have come from the Corvette that was behind me. Will investigate when I have more time. 
 

Just thinking that with the new door weather seals (one was missing), new under hood insulation (also missing), floor sound deadening and underlay has made it a very quiet car. Much quieter than I remember. Maybe all the hard work and $ has paid off. Certainly that was the first thing I noticed …… the quietness. Very happy 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

Pictures from this morning, about forty cars, including a ‘74 Rover V8 with the same family 3.5litre all aluminium engine. In British Racing Green you can just see the raised bonnet (hood) in the second photo near the tree toward the back. (This side of the blue Mustang)

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

Edited June 12, 2022 by rodneybeauchamp
Extra information (see edit history)

[JohnD1956]

12 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

Thank you for your observation. It was on a Jack when the picture was taken but I will investigate. Appears the previous restorer has replaced them but I will recheck and correct.

 

And it’s first outing in a long time. Took an age to start until I realised I had the kill switch on. Least I know that works 🤔🤔🤔🤔

 

It was very quiet and rode smoothly, very soft. Will put a few more miles on it but think it will be nice.. Noticed a funny noise on the cruise we did, sounding like a squealing power steering belt. But it did not sound like it was on the Buick and may have come from the Corvette that was behind me. Will investigate when I have more time. 
 

Just thinking that with the new door weather seals (one was missing), new under hood insulation (also missing), floor sound deadening and underlay has made it a very quiet car. Much quieter than I remember. Maybe all the hard work and $ has paid off. Certainly that was the first thing I noticed …… the quietness. Very happy 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

Pictures from this morning, about forty cars, including a ‘74 Rover V8 with the same family 3.5litre all aluminium engine. In British Racing Green you can just see the raised bonnet (hood) in the second photo near the tree toward the back. (This side of the blue Mustang)

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

Just an off topic question if I may, how cold was it there?  

 

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

1 hour ago, JohnD1956 said:

Just an off topic question if I may, how cold was it there?  

 

You noticed too!  Winter down there.

 

  Ben

[rodneybeauchamp]

7 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

Just an off topic question if I may, how cold was it there?  

 

 

5 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

You noticed too!  Winter down there.

 

  Ben

When I left home at 7.00am it was about 9 degrees C which is about 42 degrees F. I wore long trousers, tee shirt, jumper and thermal puffer jacket and my Buick beanie. It was so cold I didn’t feel a thing 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

It stayed overcast for most of the morning with no rain. Two of us with convertibles with tops down (one doesn’t have a top ) we’re brave enough (read SILLY) 

 

If rugged up enough convertible driving is fine especially at town speeds. Open road, perhaps not so nice. If Jo was with me, top might have been up 😥😥😥😥😥

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

[JohnD1956]

Ouch.  Here people start wearing shorts in that kind of temp. 

 

[rodneybeauchamp]

5 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

Ouch.  Here people start wearing shorts in that kind of temp. 

 

I like wearing shorts too, but sometimes you have to be sensible 😀😀😀😀

 

Anyway, public holiday here today so took a friend Darryl out for coffee. Apart from stalling several times trying to get out the garage, it performed flawlessly, no noises. Must say it is a smooth, quiet and comfortable ride with just a hint of exhaust note with top down. Winding the door windows up gave us a little more protection from the cold. Darryl was well rugged up so no dramas. 
 

Am really impressed with this little car, suppose getting all the gremlins out is part of the fun. Can’t get over how quiet it is with top down. I think having a door weatherstrip missing was a big noise contributor as was no under hood insulation. 
 

Just need to source those blanky rear tail light mouldings and one for the door. And put some more miles on it.

 

Anyway some more photos from yesterday’s Coffee N Cars with the Rover 3500 which uses the all aluminium 3500 V8. I think it runs a lower compression and twin SU carburettors fed from a large barrel style air cleaner.

 

Another photo I’m explaining to David on the right  (‘78 Cadillac Coupe DeVille further up the row) the finer points of the Skylark engine.

 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

 

Edited June 13, 2022 by rodneybeauchamp
More information (see edit history)

[rodneybeauchamp]

On 6/12/2022 at 12:22 AM, old-tank said:

Your sway bar links appear to be too loose.

Great observation 😀😀😀😀 Checked yesterday and I could turn each of the link tubes by hand. Tightening the nuts by a few turns stopped that. Book quotes only seven foot pounds. Adjusted the wheel bearings as per the manual as they seem loose by rocking the tyre back and forth. Will see how it performs on the next test run.

 

And need to sort out the choke system as I am not happy with the manual choke a PO fitted. Prefer an automatic choke but need to find the bits from a Rochester 4GC to make it work. 
Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

[rodneybeauchamp]

Just when you think you have things sorted it lets you down. 🤔🤔🤔🤔 Filled up with fuel today in readiness for next Wednesday breakfast outing and it decides to give trouble in the petrol station. Finally it starts then wants to die as it goes slowly down the road. It dies just after the intersection so two guys push me into a parking spot.

 

Weird stuff happening, GEN light is on, new gauges reading strangely and it sort of wants to start with the choke (manual) pulled out and on. With air cleaner removed the fuel filter seems empty and not much of a fuel squirt from the accelerator pump.  Possible fuel problem.
 

Lightly Knock the electric fuel pump under the car a few times and try to check the wiring. (It’s very low and hard to see) Finally it starts and stays running to get to a friends house (David with blue Cadillac)

 

When leaving it decides to die before the big roundabout but I start it and get it home. Checking the wires underneath all seems OK but tracing it back to the fuse block, the terminal looks crusty and corroded and seems loose where it hooks into the BLOWER fuse terminal. With a clean up of the RED wire on the right using a Dremel on both terminals and a tweak on the ends sees it much cleaner and tighter.

 

More importantly it started first time every time for about five tries, no GEN light and gauges read correctly.

 

I had cleaned each of the fuse block contacts when I had the interior out but must have overlooked this one. And looking at the photos, I might have another clean up as some still look crusty 🙁🙁🙁🙁

 

Anyway photos, otherwise it never happened.

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

Edited June 18, 2022 by rodneybeauchamp
Extra detail (see edit history)

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

I sometimes wish I had replaced the original with a modern fuse block.

 

  Ben

[old-tank]

Buy or make:  "glass fuse to blade fuse adapter".

[JohnD1956]

What else is running off that fuse? It looks like a factory fitting on that brown wire but is it the wire for the blower or something else?

[rodneybeauchamp]

On 6/19/2022 at 12:29 AM, JohnD1956 said:

What else is running off that fuse? It looks like a factory fitting on that brown wire but is it the wire for the blower or something else?

Good observation Runs the Blower but there is also a factory terminal addition designed as a take off point. (Possibly for AC when fitted). Got to it about two hours ago with a Dremel and some dielectric grease. 20A fuse is solid and I cleaned it up pretty good. 
 

It was difficult to start again but when started, ran fine. After cleaning the fuse connectors it fired up first time for several starts but don’t think this is the solution to hard starting. I need to replace that @#$&$#@%& manual choke.

 

And when all else fails use DUCT TAPE. Was annoyed by the look of the rear without mouldings so came up with this temporary fix. It is strips of silver coloured duct tape cut to width and stuck down. Cleaned the paint work with Prepsol to promote adhesion. I’m sure now that this is done, a pair will jump out of the woodwork. Normally happens 😊😊😊😊

 

Anyway, pictures. 
Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

Edited June 20, 2022 by rodneybeauchamp
Additional clarification (see edit history)

[rodneybeauchamp]

On 6/18/2022 at 11:39 PM, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

I sometimes wish I had replaced the original with a modern fuse block.

 

  Ben

Can I ask why? What advantage would that give? 

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

2 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

Can I ask why? What advantage would that give? 

 

 Buick [ GM?] still used glass fuses in 1950.  Still "spliced " some circuits.  I think modern fuse panels with blade fuses are neater and perhaps spliced circuits could be eliminated.  Old system still works, though.

 

  Ben

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

6:20 AM Monday morning here, Rodney. What time is it there?

 

  Ben

[rodneybeauchamp]

12 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

6:20 AM Monday morning here, Rodney. What time is it there?

 

  Ben

According to the post “12 hours ago , Ben Bruce ask First Born said : Plus 12 hours makes it 6.20pm. Central Australia Time

😀😀😀😀😀😀

[EmTee]

 

[rodneybeauchamp]

Am certain this Buick has more gremlins to find. 😡😡😡😡😡😡 Took it out on Wednesday morning and it started OK and ran fine to our breakfast spot about 20minutes away. Almost home and it decides to die again. (Like it’s running out of fuel)

 

Pull over and turn the ignition switch to accessories and hear the electric pump working, start it up and we get home.

 

Replaced the fuel filter a PO had placed just after the tank and before the pump. Eureka, I thought I had struck gold when I saw all of the rubbish come out. 👍👍👍👍👍 Most appears to be sanding and paint materials when they painted it. Am sure the container I emptied it into was clean. Starts up and runs fine, starts first time with several tries.

 

Mm, take it for a run and it dies at the end of my driveway. Get it started and back in the garage.

 

GEN light is on so I do some tests. At idle, charge rate showed 13.08Volts with digital meter, turned off battery reads 13.21V.  With all headlamps and heater blower on high 12.47V engine running.

 

Then running with everything off it now shows 12.94V. At engine off and at rest it now reads 13.08V climbing to 13.11V after a few minutes resting.

 

Did a voltage leak test with everything off and ground disconnected , reading from ground cable to battery negative terminal was 3.01V and kept dropping down to 2.96V which I think is acceptable.

 

I cleaned up the terminals and connections on the voltage regulator but no difference and tried to adjust the voltage regulator via the adjusting screw but it made little difference. I think I will return it back to the initial setting but I think the alternator may be faulty.

 

One thing I found was that when running with the GEN light on it eventually dies as it runs out of fuel. Wriggling the ignition switch slightly would make the light almost go out but still dim. Pulling the switch I found one terminal loose so I will replace the switch with another new one I  have.

 

Still think I should be seeing around 13.8V at idle, so not convinced alternator is up to scratch.  Still doesn’t explain why engine starves for fuel but perhaps it requires full voltage to run.

 

See what transpires with the new switch 😀😀😀

 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

[EmTee]

Rodney, sounds like there's a charging system fault.  13 Volts (or less) is just battery voltage.  As you said, there should be 14~14.5 Volts at the battery with the engine running and headlights on.  The GEN light is confirming there's a problem.  With the engine running check voltage right at the BAT terminal on the back of the alternator.  (I expect it will match the battery voltage.)  I think you have a shop manual; if so, follow the charging system troubleshooting steps (should be the same as your Riviera.)  Since you've already made basic checks the next thing the book should describe is disconnecting the gray connector on the alternator and jumping +12 Volts directly to the field terminal (F).  If that causes the running battery voltage to show 14 Volts then the alternator is OK and the issue is with the regulator.  If your regulator is the old, mechanical type you can try removing it and carefully cleaning up the contacts.  Another thing to look at is the fine wire that wraps the solenoid coil.  I have seen those break or connection fail where it grounds to the base.  From what I've heard on this forum, new electronic replacement regulators are usually junk and quickly stop working.  If you need a regulator and can't revive your old one you'll probably have to check eBay...

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

Man, that is a dirty filter!   Is there another at the carburetor, perhaps inside the first fitting in the line? Is there a "pancake" filter just ahead of the carb?

 

  Ben