Rodney’s 1963 Buick Skylark convertible

[rodneybeauchamp]

Some further progress today! New thermostat is in, fan and pulley back on and radiator is back in! Two jobs that have given a few troubles in the past went really well because of some pre-preparation.

 

Remember trying to fit a previous thermostat and housing on something where they fit on the side and not from the top and having all sorts of issues with it dropping between the housing and the mating surface and the gasket getting in the way and eventually getting it sorted but you still are not 100% sure until you try it. 🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞

 

And the other is fighting the first couple of the fan bolts while trying to line up the hole, the pulley and the fan all at the same time and holding your tongue the right way!

 

Well must be getting smarter as after cleaning the faces of the housing and the intake manifold, lightly glued the thermostat in place with some flexible adhesive. Only used a tiny amount in four spots then left if for several hours to dry. Had already chased the threads with a tap and the bolts were also cleaned up with a wire wheel. So after several hours it was a simple matter of coating the mating surfaces with gasket sealer, putting the cover and gasket in place and threading in the bolts by hand. Then torquing them to the right tension, I went slightly under 20foot pounds as the bolts threading into aluminium and were well lubricated with an anti seize compound. 
 

With the fan I simply made up two short studs to act as a guide by cutting the heads off of two UNF bolts. After cleaning them up on a wire wheel, threaded both into the fan hub. Then it was a simple matter to fit the fan and the pulley into the two remaining holes as all the holes were now aligned. These studs were easily removed which allowed all the bolts to be threaded in by hand then torqued to 20foot pounds.

 

Both of these jobs had given me a reasonable amount of frustration in the past, but not any more as I think I will be using alignment studs in a lot more areas.  It makes the job of replacing parts so simple, my productivity has improved ten fold! 
Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 22, 2021 by rodneybeauchamp
Photos (see edit history)

[rodneybeauchamp]

Was never too thrilled about the way the PO had installed the fuel line and filter, especially when compared to photos of original engine bays. In the first photo you can see how the fuel filter was loosely laid along side the coil in the valley area joined by flexible hose back to a pressure regulator, again just sitting loose behind the P/S pump then on to the metal fuel line by the inner skirt, bypassing the fuel pump which had been removed. 
 

OK, so a hose clamp on the filter is not perfect, but the layout is much better and close to how the original was. The pressure regulator now sits out of sight in behind the P/S pump bracket and the hoses are neater and out of the way of exhaust and moving belts and pulleys. Might get around to finding an original bracket for the filter or making one. Third photo clearly shows the bracket that bolts to the P/S bracket that supports the pressure regulator.

 

And very pleased with the install of the 5/8” bypass hose that connects the thermostat housing cover to the water pump. A bit of soap on both ends makes for an easy fit with the clamps fully undone and slipped over once the hose is in place. Was so pleased how easily it went on, cut a slightly longer piece that now covers both outlets entirely.

 

Now decided to wait for the proper top and bottom hoses to arrive and then fill and test the system. In the meantime, have seat belts to fit and maybe a radio and speakers soon!

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

 

 

Edited April 23, 2021 by rodneybeauchamp
Additional information (see edit history)

[rodneybeauchamp]

And still another photo sent to me from last Sunday. Interesting read about how the event started after the instigator read a blurb in an English magazine about how thousands of vintage and classic vehicles were about to invade a particular town. It was his inspiration to see if that would help inject some life, people and their money into his own town in Australia. Starting about 15 years ago with less than 50 cars and a few bystanders has developed into an event hosting over 500. Great event!

 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

 

 

[rodneybeauchamp]

Bit of a lazy day today!

 

Rather than be tempted to put the old hoses back on to make it drivable, decided to tackle the seatbelts. I had looked previously and knew that the floors were sound but wanted to improve the sound deadening material that was used. So will order some insulation materials tonight.
 

With all the seats and carpet out will be an easy job to stick the sound deadener along with a softer layer of stick down waterproof underlay.
 

Noticed that the hoses around the hydraulic rams for the top were slightly damp so I will look at how they are sealed. The seller stated that the hydraulics had been done but I will fix it regardless. 

 

With a clean, the carpet will be reusable and with the seats out it will give me a chance to get under the dashboard and sort out the bundle of wires from the immobiliser. Am going to replace it with a kill switch instead.
 

And a chance to rectify some small issues on the seats including replacing the #$@#$&$#  Whitworth bolts with correct 1/2”AF. And fix the broken fixings on the fresh air vent too!

 

Will probably tighten the clamp around the base of steering column that is just dangling around just for fun 🙃🙃🙃

The more you dig, the more you find but that’s OK. Am more than capable of sorting these small issues out, knowing that they are going to be done PROPERLY this time!

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀
 

 

Edited April 24, 2021 by rodneybeauchamp
Additional information (see edit history)

[Bill Stoneberg]

Whitworth bolts ??  I thought only the Brits used such oddball stuff.  I still have sockets and wrenches from when I worked on British cars.

[rodneybeauchamp]

1 hour ago, Bill Stoneberg said:

Whitworth bolts ??  I thought only the Brits used such oddball stuff.  I still have sockets and wrenches from when I worked on British cars.

Bill, when they undertook the “restoration” they replaced all but one of the seat hold downs with Whitworth bolts. As you are probably aware, the thread pitch is not that far from UNC, so they fit.
 

Frustrating when you start the first bolt with a good 1/2” AF gear wrench spanner and have it undone quicker than you can read this sentence. Then finding out it doesn’t fit the next bolt,  dig out your seldom used 5/16 WW open end ring spacer and do one eighth to one quarter turns at best on all the the rest! They will be replaced with UNC 😀😀😀😀

 

Tested the thermostat that had been fitted. Yup, it begins to open at 192 degrees F by which time the coolant is bubbling away, almost near boiling point so little room for error. Manual suggests a 170 degree or optional 180 degree which I have installed. Proof will be when back together and a proper gauge installed.

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

 

 

 

[rodneybeauchamp]

Well, a few more things off the list. The floor access plates looked ordinary with surface rust compared to the rest of the floor. One was so thin that I replaced it with one made from thick aluminium plate. It goes under the front seat so won’t be stepped on.
 

The others were wire wheeled then primed and painted with some silver auto lacquer and an airbrush. When dry these were then placed on a bed of flexible adhesive sealer and screwed back into position. Shouldn’t leak water now!
 

Made up some proper terminal connectors for the rear quarter lights. PO had used lovely crimp on bullet connectors that I detest so they had to go. Found in my collection a double contact base LED globe in warm white which will work nicely here. This will spur me on to replacing the rest of the interior globes as well.

 

And the insides of the armrests had a lot of surface rust so gave them a coat of rust converter. Will turn black when dry and will add a top coat to these soon.

 

Some pictures.

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

 

 

This is my next issue. The floor under the LH hydraulic ram for the power top and the wet fluid line tells me that the ram is leaking. Think it may be coming from this connection but won’t know until it comes out. Never seen this style of fluid fitting before so a bit apprehensive.
 

May need to reach out to the wider forum and see what advice I can gain there. Any clues on how these are sealed or repaired?

 

Edited April 27, 2021 by rodneybeauchamp
Spacing (see edit history)

[dei]

Have heard some can be rebuilt installing new seals but no experience there.

The ones on my '58 Buick were a crimped type so bought NOS ones at a swap meet way back. They will need to be replaced soon (it's been a long time and use) and the last price I looked up were $150 US each... then I probably should replace the hoses too.

 

Keep us posted. I like the fact you can drive your car while making these upgrades. 

 

[JohnD1956]

I would recommend using a small mirror to check the seal at the rod for leaks. Hit the area with a cleaner then operate the top one cycle up then down. And then stick a mirror in there to see if the leak is from the cylinder seal or from the hose. I use small dental mirrors and a bright flashlight to illuminate areas like this.

[rodneybeauchamp]

And a few more forward moves I think. Pulled out the engine immobiliser wiring and box, it was never pretty. Also I’m not sure I want to be stranded if I lose the key set with the transmitter or it has a flat battery. Sure I have a spare transmitter but that will be at home, in a very safe place. Will install a simple kill switch and hide a spare key ........ much more practical solution.

 

Repaired the third screw fixing for the fresh air vent cover, not pretty, so no photo!

 

Unfortunately someone had removed the original 6 pin ignition switch and put in something else which does not line up with the OEM connector. They had fitted jumper wires from switch to immobiliser to the connector 😡😡😡

 

So now looking for a 1963 ignition switch from any Buick. My parts listing states they are the same switch for all series including the Riviera. Hope to find one with a key set as it has the neat little protection that extends out as part of the key holder. Photo shows the 6 pin connector.

 

And was never thrilled by the fix done on several of the dash light holders, so removed the instrument cluster so I can undertake a proper repair. Same time I will give it a good cleaning and freshen up and install LEDs. The difference it made to my Riviera was amazing, it is one job I recommend regardless of the model!

 

Anyway a few pics. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

 

[rodneybeauchamp]

Some nice progress today.
 

Tackled the instrument panel lighting one globe holder at a time. Simple task to clean up the copper contact surfaces on the printed circuit with fine wet and dry paper. The globe holders cleaned up well with a Dremel and wire brush, particular attention paid to the two outer terminals where they contact the board. Had to replace three holders that were broken, hence the screws holding them down in the last post. Had some spare used ones as replacements that worked really well.
 

Chose to tweak each globe holder ( see photo ) by bending these contact terminals up a tad so they apply slight pressure when they lock. Finished up with a tiny touch of dielectric grease on them before installing. Importantly tested each one as we went with a 12V supply, with a 100% pass rate.

 

None of this is rocket science, simple cleaning, tweaking and testing. You have to question the logic and thinking of those who tried to fix it before. What were they thinking #$@#$&##@#$&& 😀😀😀😀😀

 

Still, done properly, done good, am happy! Going to try getting the clock to move now.

 

cheers

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

[rodneybeauchamp]

Tough few days at the office

 

Haven’t posted for a while as there had not been much to show.

 

However, like many of the things we do, 90% of the actual time is spent in planning, 5% in the doing and 5% in patting our selves on the back and having spiritual recovery (usually involving wine)

 

So the saga of the seatbelts continues. Put in perspective, the ‘63 shop manual shows the position of the factory seat belt anchorages for the front seats and dimples in the floor pan for drilling holes for rear belts. Sounds easy but reality was something else.

 

Located factory installed threads for the outboard anchor bolts but the inner ones were MIA. Lots of dimples to choose from in the rear but none of them had clear space underneath for the reinforcement plate, nut and washer.

 

So this led to many many hours searching, checking, examining the shop manual to ensure they ended up in the right location. Eventually decided to use four existing holes in the rear pan after pushing out the large rubber plugs as that gave clear space underneath.

 

These were 1” diameter however the bolts are 7/16” UNF so turned down some washers to fit inside the hole. Drilled and tapped the reinforcement plates 10/24 for two retaining screws and used a template to drill the holes in the floor needed to secure and centre them.  

 

The plates were then fitted after applying a heavy bead of my favourite adhesive sealer and the washers installed in the holes. Photos show the result. Perfect!

 

After looking in the boot and glovebox, still could not locate the inboard holes for the front seat. Perhaps a Monday or Friday build. Main problem is that the floor pan tunnel on these is not symmetrical, being wider on the RHS to allow for the close proximity of the tail shaft, centre bearing and the single exhaust pipe.

 

After procrastinating for a long while, reinstalled the front seats to identify the best location. After determining the centreline of the floor and drilling a 1/8” pilot hole where I thought they would go found the best location was another 4 1/2” forward. This new location provided enough access to install the reinforcement plates, nuts and washers. 

 

You can see in the photos the heads of two nails in two pilot holes drilled. Also is an underneath photo showing the proximity of the tail shaft. After removing the seats (again) these were drilled for the mounting bolts and the reinforcement plates were fixed using adhesive.

 

Tis looking good!

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

[rodneybeauchamp]

And to make my day!

 

The Speed Hut gauges came in the other day but was disciplined enough to finish the seat belt mounting holes. I’m easily distracted but got them done.

 

I had fitted the same gauges in my Riviera and already had a timber mounting left over from that project. Made up a mounting bracket from some 1” aluminium angle and located two existing holes to mount it in the centre. 
 

Just mocked up here for now and will cover with a dark red vinyl that is a close match to the dashboard colour. Yup, they are big 2 5/8” diameter and easy to scan.

 

And the same afternoon, my Buick radio and four speakers arrived, after having the Aurora Designs conversion to AM/FM/USB/MP3/Bluetooth etc. I think it will also make coffee but not 100% on that. 
 

Gonna be busy 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

[rodneybeauchamp]

Nice to add a bit of bling, even if not connected.  
 

And the ignition switch dilemma has lessened somewhat with the arrival of new cylinder and keys that are correct to the Buick. As a temporary measure will patch connect this old 5 pin switch back to the OEM 6 pin connector until I find the correct switch. 
 

Really did not like the flat face of the part where the key fits, this was not what Buick designed or used. Probably a bit pedantic but little things like that are irksome. And won’t really be 100% happy until I have the right switch at the back.

 

One will turn up eventually 🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞

 

But very pleased how it is looking, those gauges will be an easy read.

 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

 

[Mark62]

Rodney, nice work on your custom gauges. Did you use the existing port that holds the temp light sending unit or is there another spot on the 215 so you can have both the warning light and temp gauge. Are your gauges mechanical or electrical? Thanks, Mark

[rodneybeauchamp]

On 5/27/2021 at 12:59 PM, Mark62 said:

Rodney, nice work on your custom gauges. Did you use the existing port that holds the temp light sending unit or is there another spot on the 215 so you can have both the warning light and temp gauge. Are your gauges mechanical or electrical? Thanks, Mark

 

Hi Mark,

yes, used the existing port for the temperature gauge as there is no other area on this engine that you can use. If I wanted to keep the light I could tap the thermostat housing to fit the sender but don’t have that 1/8” x 27 NPT tap. However did use a T piece for the oil gauge to retain the light for that one.
 

These Speed Hut gauges are both electric and use a digital stepper motor. Have found these particular brand of gauges excellent as I have identical ones in my ‘63 Riviera. Tend to scan them frequently when driving so the lack of a light is not an issue but may revisit it later when I run out of things to do.

 

Hope this helps!

cheers

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Edited May 28, 2021 by rodneybeauchamp
Extra information (see edit history)

[Mark62]

9 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

 

Hi Mark,

yes, used the existing port for the temperature gauge as there is no other area on this engine that you can use. If I wanted to keep the light I could tap the thermostat housing to fit the sender but don’t have that NPT tap. However did use a T piece for the oil gauge to retain the light for that one.
 

These Speed Hut gauges are both electric and use a digital stepper motor. Have found these particular brand of gauges excellent as I have identical ones in my ‘63 Riviera. Tend to scan them frequently when driving so the lack of a light is not an issue but may revisit it later when I run out of things to do.

 

Hope this helps!

cheers

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Thanks Rodney it does, makes sense with the t-fitting for the pressure sensors. I researched the steppers and the digital tech is very accurate. I agree with your early post, when I go to cruise in events here in Florida, out of 150-200 cars, I am the only Special convertible too among many Mustangs and Corvettes. lol

[Mark62]

On 5/27/2021 at 9:38 PM, rodneybeauchamp said:

 

Hi Mark,

yes, used the existing port for the temperature gauge as there is no other area on this engine that you can use. If I wanted to keep the light I could tap the thermostat housing to fit the sender but don’t have that 1/8” x 27 NPT tap. However did use a T piece for the oil gauge to retain the light for that one.
 

These Speed Hut gauges are both electric and use a digital stepper motor. Have found these particular brand of gauges excellent as I have identical ones in my ‘63 Riviera. Tend to scan them frequently when driving so the lack of a light is not an issue but may revisit it later when I run out of things to do.

 

Hope this helps!

cheers

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Also Rodney, where did you run your wires through the firewall, was there an existing grommet or did you have to make a hole. I can’t see on mine there is quite a bit of old black adhesive on mine. Thanks for answering all the questions, since you have had your car apart, quite impressive.

[rodneybeauchamp]

8 hours ago, Mark62 said:

Also Rodney, where did you run your wires through the firewall, was there an existing grommet or did you have to make a hole. I can’t see on mine there is quite a bit of old black adhesive on mine. Thanks for answering all the questions, since you have had your car apart, quite impressive.

Hi Mark,

I used the hole where the heater valve cable comes through. The rubber grommet was shot but still had enough room to fit the wires with end clips through. Taped both sets of wires together, starting at the temperature sender, fed them under the auto choke to the back of the blower ducting, under that along the firewall with the existing loom. Will post some pics soon as I am close to having the radio working. 
 

And more than happy to help. Why reinvent the wheel if someone has already done this. Also if there are pitfalls, you get to know about them. With too few Skylark owners here, happy to share what I can.

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

[Mark62]

Perfect, thanks so much!

[rodneybeauchamp]

These photos show where it goes. Wires from oil gauge come up and join the temp sender wires. Still need to finish the tape there. Then along manifold tucking under the auto choke then under blower ducting and joins the path of the OEM wiring until it enters where the temp cable exits.

 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

[rodneybeauchamp]

We have tunes! Have been working on mounting speakers now having had the Buick push button radio converted by Nostalgic Wireless in Australia using the Aurora Designs (USA) conversion. This conversion keeps all the original radio functions but marries it to internals that provide AM/FM/Bluetooth as well as an MP3 and USB connection to stream music. It also provides hands free telephone connection.

 

Made up some mounting pads from 9mm MDF for the front speakers and small speaker boxes that fit under each front bucket seat. I am not a fan of cutting door trims, kick panels or quarter armrest panels to mount speakers if other locations are more appropriate. Besides it retains that original “old car look” which is what I prefer.

 

Front speakers ended up either side of the steering column as there was not practical space on the other side because of the glovebox. A wiring harness made the connections simple. Speaker boxes will fit on top of the carpet and be fixed to the floor. 

 

Some photos here and a short test video on the next post!

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

[rodneybeauchamp]

Speaker under each seat is probably not ideal from an acoustic perspective but as there is plenty of room should sound OK. Ashtray provides the home for the AM to FM switch, voice control button and USB connection. Microphone for hands free sits to the right of the new temperature gauge. When the trim is all back together, none of the changes will be obvious. First sound test is FM radio, second is from the USB memory stick provided with the conversion. 
 

In my opinion, it sounds great and once back together, can adjust bass and treble, left and right balance and front and rear fader to get it sounding “just right”

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

PS trying to upload the videos but not winning 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔

Edited June 1, 2021 by rodneybeauchamp
Add photo (see edit history)

[JohnD1956]

Under the front seats speakers is of utmost interest to me. Once the seat is in place i just wonder how well they can be heard. 

[Bill Stoneberg]

I have speakers under the seat of my Electra and you can hear them fine. Having  said that I do need to add some tweeters as the high end gets lost.

[rodneybeauchamp]

On 6/1/2021 at 9:17 PM, JohnD1956 said:

Under the front seats speakers is of utmost interest to me. Once the seat is in place i just wonder how well they can be heard. 

John, I had the same concerns as you initially however when taking out the seats, found there is a large gap under there. In the photo showing the speaker boxes, you can see pedestals that the seat legs bolt to. These pedestals are about the height of the boxes. There is about another 2.5 - 3.0 of height provided by the brackets plus the distance to the seat bottoms.

 

The other point, is that there are two other speakers under the dashboard to provide extra volume. No doubt the acoustics won’t be ideal, but it is a convertible and not a concert hall. 

 

If the seats were lower, then the boxes would have been made lower however think they will be fine. No doubt when the seats are back in the sound will muffle slightly, however the Aurora Design system gives you control of bass and treble, left and right speaker as well as fade from front to rear. Once all together, will spend an hour or two with some well known tunes to get all these balances right.

 

When I did a quick test, the volume and clarity were excellent so thinking they will be fine. And your welcome to come for a ride anytime to give your appraisal. I think you would be pleasantly surprised 😀😀😀😀😀

 

Once I find out how to upload an IPad video, will run a demonstration sound off!

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

[rodneybeauchamp]

And some bigger wins today, parts arrived from Classic Buick. 200HP decal for the air cleaner, hood wedges, door bumpers and moulded radiator hoses. Spent a few hours putting these on and tis looking good. Lower radiator hose was not a perfect fit so wrapped some sticky foam insulation to prevent it rubbing the alternator bracket. Once the ignition switch arrives, will be able to bring it to life. A few pics here.

 

 

[rodneybeauchamp]

Location of the air cleaner decal was interesting after looking at pictures from the internet, however was not really 100% sure if those were correct. Most have it sitting more central ( further up the snorkel) however after looking at pictures from a Motor Trend road test from 1963, convinced I got it right. What do you think?

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

[JohnD1956]

4 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

Location of the air cleaner decal was interesting after looking at pictures from the internet, however was not really 100% sure if those were correct. Most have it sitting more central ( further up the snorkel) however after looking at pictures from a Motor Trend road test from 1963, convinced I got it right. What do you think?

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

Perfect!  And thanks for the offer to take me for a ride.  That would be a great adventure!  As for the video, can you post it to You Tube and then post a link here?

[rodneybeauchamp]

Another small victory today, though I felt the Skylark was fighting me at times. 
 

Purchased a few months back some NOS parts including a vacuum trunk release. However even though the box and part number are correct, it looked different to that shown in the shop manual. Also the release mechanism did not quite line up with the latching mechanism. Chances of getting another were probably not good so figured with some work I could get this to fit.

 

First part was to feed the vacuum hose under the dashboard and hinge pillar into the rear compartment. Bought a new hose as the one in the kit was who knows how old. Besides, if it was not going to work, I would resell it.

 

Specials and Skylarks have the latch in the boot lid unlike the Riviera and full size Buicks that are fitted to the body. This meant routing the hose around the boot lid hinge and through the body of the boot lid. Chose to exit mine in the centre by the latch rather than run it externally from the side to centre, looks much neater. The NOS grommet supplied in the kit adds a finishing touch to the install.

 

Next part was to install the vacuum plunger on the LH lower corner of the glovebox rather than at the top and bracing it to the side of the glovebox. It also meant punching a 1/4” hole for the hose in the rear of the glovebox. That all worked out fine. Had intended to install an extra side fixing but it is very tight at the side because of the radio, but it might still happen. Seems quite secure with a side and lower fix now.

 

Installing the release mechanism on the boot lid, only one latch hole lined up and that wasn’t exact. So a little bit of filing of that hole to allow sideways movement was required. After some testing to ensure it opened reliably, was satisfied so then drilled and tapped the boot lid for a 1/4” UNC bolt similar to what is fitted, complete with serrated washer. This gave it the two fixings it requires.

 

I really like having a remote release as I have found how handy they can be with my Riviera, so it was great to be able to make this one work in the Skylark. 
 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

 

 

[rodneybeauchamp]

Plan was to replace the engine immobiliser with a simple kill switch as I figured if keys were lost or misplaced, then car  would certainly be immobile. I can always carry or hide a spare key. 
 

Was going to incorporate the neutral start switch as well as ground the ignition but changed my mind after seeing the huge wire size that goes to that switch. I was not super confident that the switch I was using would carry the current so chose to just ground out the coil.

 

That Micronta multimeter has been with me for around 30-35years and apart from a new set of leads and a few batteries, is a good friend to have. The diagram I drew in the box lid when I first bought it was a great help to me when  learning to check resistance or voltage in identifying which lead goes where. 
 

All mounted, all good, just need to test but should be fine.

[rodneybeauchamp]

And the last couple of days chose to become a motor trimmer and fix up the two front seats while they were out. The professional trimmer had made some errors with the placement of the rubber bumper pads and metal contact plates where the seat squab meets the cushion. Even though they were not really noticeable to the average punter, I remembered these well from my ‘64 Skylark as one needed repair. 
 

On one seat the bumpers were correct and exposed, however there were no metal plates for them to rest on. Over time, the action would wear the trim and create a hole or a tear. Undoing the hog rings on the seam revealed both plates were missing and a holding screw had broken off. That took what seemed a lifetime to drill out but eventually it resisted no more. 
 

Had made up some plates using some steel strip that was drilled and countersunk to take the oval head trim screws I had. These fitted well and eventually got the trim back together. Removed and lubricated the slides, tightened up the release knob Allen screw and put the slides back on.

 

Seat number two wasn’t so easy, yet took way less time! Unfortunately it is missing the chrome domed cover that fits on the end of the pivot shaft, so will need to address that also.
 

In the meantime broke only one of the slide hold down bolts, so drilled and tapped that to 5/16UNC and found in my stash an identical spare bolt with the star washer. So far so good. On this seat, the trimmer had chosen to cover over the two bumpers with trim, which again would create a hole over time.

 

This meant undoing a lot of the under side trim to expose the back of the cushion. Thankfully only one frozen screw here needed drilling out but that did not take long. The other came out OK with an impact driver. Unfortunately one bumper is really shot so will improvise until I can locate the proper part. Not too critical but needs to be replaced. 

 

Thought I could feel the outline of the contact plates on the squab, so undid the hog rings on that area and surprise, surprise …… two metal plates. Took those off and will probably use the ones I made until I find the right ones. Again not too critical but would be nice to replace them. Called it a day, will finish up the trim tomorrow!

 

Lot happier now I know the folding seat contact points are correct. Don’t know what the trimmer was thinking, no excuses. We have digital cameras, IPads and phones to record every detail of every item that we are repairing. No excuses!

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

This is what it should look like. These are the plates that were made and fitted to the first seat. Screwdriver is pointing to the bumper. The broken screw for one of the plates was a bear to remove, seemed like it took a week to remove it!

 

Edited June 18, 2021 by rodneybeauchamp
Extra info (see edit history)

[rodneybeauchamp]

And here is the second seat. You can see the outline made by the bumper hidden under the trim. A bit more use and there would be a hole.
 

Second photo shoes it screwed into the correct exposed position. After undoing the trim, exposed the bumpers and these two metal contact plates.
 

Third photo shows one bumper is shot and needs to be replaced. Surprisingly this frozen screw drilled out without too much hassle. Must be getting better with all the practise. 😀😀😀😀😀

Edited June 18, 2021 by rodneybeauchamp
Extra information (see edit history)

[rodneybeauchamp]

Still plodding along, seems like it’s taking forever but ……

 

New ignition switch now installed, all good. Was given the correct lock without a key by a friend and surprisingly my key fits. The correct lock fills the entire hole in the surround unlike the NOS set I bought that leaves a gap. Now it looks like it is supposed to look! 😀😀😀😀😀

 

Managed to get all the OIL, AMP and TEMP to light up but it did not turn the starter over so need to check what’s not right. That’s for another day.

 

And starting to install the sound deadening materials, will possibly finish up the front floor first and pop the seats back in. Still trying to figure the best way, thinking I just want something to go back together 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔

 

Finished up taking the driver seat trim apart again. When it was in the car there was something inside the cushion pressing against the trim on the RH side and figured it would tear through eventually if left. Found a section of spring had dislocated from the rest where it had been joined with a metal joiner. Managed to tie it back together with some heavy wire to keep it in check. Little things but they all take time. Photo with arrow shows where it was pushing against the trim.

 

Anyway, unless there are pictures, it never happened.

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

Edited June 25, 2021 by rodneybeauchamp
Add photo and words (see edit history)

[rodneybeauchamp]

Haven’t posted for a while as little has happened Buick wise. But made some significant progress for me this last week over Christmas and New Year.
 

Completed the main floor with the Carbuilders sound insulation (similar to Dynamat) and sticking down the rubberised waterproof underlay. Previous restorer had used new cloth style underlay however if it got damp it could rot and smell, being a convertible. Front carpets and kick panels in, so starting to look like a car again. 
 

Have decided to remove the top hydraulics and take it to a specialist to replace the tubes and check it does not leak. In a previous post I mentioned there was a slight weeping of fluid.

 

Thinking next step is to finish under dash wiring of the two gauges and get it running again. Then the bonnet underlay and some weather strips and and and 😊😊😊😊😊

 

Anyway photos, otherwise it never happened 

Rodney 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊

Edited January 6, 2022 by rodneybeauchamp
Spelling (see edit history)

[sloperlad]

Keep up the good work Rodney. Hope to see this car at the Buick nationals in Dubbo ,  covid permitting. 

[rodneybeauchamp]

On 1/12/2022 at 6:28 PM, sloperlad said:

Keep up the good work Rodney. Hope to see this car at the Buick nationals in Dubbo ,  covid permitting. 

Hope the event still goes ahead safely. Will be there in a Buick.

cheers Rodney 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊

[rodneybeauchamp]

Well, it just keeps happening. 
 

completed the under hood sound deadening today. Had ordered incorrectly a Premium Under Bonnet insulation to find it was only about 1/4” thick whereas previously had used one that was about 1/2”. After some deliberation ordered the other however preferred the softer grey look.
 

Used a double layer of standard and finished with a single layer of premium which I think looks great. Haven’t tried it but should be super quiet. Pictures show the process plus the templates used to make each section.

 

Found the best method was to remove a strip of backing sheet from the centre, chalk mark the position and stick it down. When correctly positioned, remove the lower section and smooth it down finally tucking under the edges. Then ditto the top. 
 

Rodney 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊

[rodneybeauchamp]

And a bit more progress. The saga of the front seat belt holes. With the Skylark on the hoist found there were some rust repairs undertaken and the hole positions had not been reinstated, which is why I could not find them. With some measuring and checking drilled the holes in appropriate places.

 

This meant a drive a few miles away, so it was good to get it out and running again. Radio and speakers sound good, certainly loud and clear. Yet to adjust balance but I’m pleased with the performance. Gauges all working with temperature sitting at 180 degrees F and oil pressure is  good (can’t remember the figure 35-40 psi I think)

 

Now the buckles back to be lengthened as they are further back than I measured. 
 

in the meantime have placed the stick on sound deadener on the back seat area ready for when the rear seats go back in. Replacing the door weather strips recently made a huge difference in noise level as one was missing (go figure 🤔🤔🤔🤔) and with the extra sound deadening should be much quieter again. Any way, photos otherwise it did not happen.

 

Rodney 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊

[rodneybeauchamp]

When completing the sound deadening was trying to figure out what should fit here on the metal panel at the rear of the rear seat. There are a row of round Black plastic clips that appear to hold something but not sure what.

 

Can anyone provide a clue?

 

Pictures below.

Rodney 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊