Rodney’s 1963 Buick Skylark convertible

[EmTee]

34 minutes ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

Man, that is a dirty filter!

Suggests to me that there's more of that stuff sloshing around in the tank...

[old-tank]

Need to check for fuel at the carb and spark at the plugs at the time that it dies.

[rodneybeauchamp]

Well some good news. Noticed the GEN light would go out if the ignition switch was turned back slightly when started. Found one of the terminals riveted to the switch was loose so substituted another new switch I had and the light stays  off. The reading at the battery was a touch over 13 volts at idle and with some revs so I still think the charging system is not right. Haven’t tested it on the road so will see what transpires, but with the new switch it idled and ran for some time without dying and started up repeatedly. Fingers crossed.

 

On 6/26/2022 at 12:58 AM, old-tank said:

Need to check for fuel at the carb and spark at the plugs at the time that it dies.

When it died there was no fuel at the carburettor suggesting the pump was not working.

 

On 6/25/2022 at 9:52 PM, EmTee said:

Suggests to me that there's more of that stuff sloshing around in the tank...

And a plan is to drop the tank and flush it out. Looks like there could be a ton of stuff in there suggesting the fuel cap was missing when they painted it and did body work. When I first got it it had some ill fitting oil cap sitting there suggesting the original cap was gone. I used a locking cap for a while until I obtained a NOS cap that works fine. It will give me a chance to replace the rubber fuel hose that connects from the tank to the filter.

 

BTW there is another throw away style filter at the motor end just before the carburettor so all is well protected.

 

Gee the more you dig the more you find …. Still that’s half the fun NOT! 😡😡😡😡😡😡

 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

[rodneybeauchamp]

On 6/25/2022 at 9:08 PM, EmTee said:

Rodney, sounds like there's a charging system fault.  13 Volts (or less) is just battery voltage.  As you said, there should be 14~14.5 Volts at the battery with the engine running and headlights on.  The GEN light is confirming there's a problem.  With the engine running check voltage right at the BAT terminal on the back of the alternator.  (I expect it will match the battery voltage.)  I think you have a shop manual; if so, follow the charging system troubleshooting steps (should be the same as your Riviera.)  Since you've already made basic checks the next thing the book should describe is disconnecting the gray connector on the alternator and jumping +12 Volts directly to the field terminal (F).  If that causes the running battery voltage to show 14 Volts then the alternator is OK and the issue is with the regulator.  If your regulator is the old, mechanical type you can try removing it and carefully cleaning up the contacts.  Another thing to look at is the fine wire that wraps the solenoid coil.  I have seen those break or connection fail where it grounds to the base.  From what I've heard on this forum, new electronic replacement regulators are usually junk and quickly stop working.  If you need a regulator and can't revive your old one you'll probably have to check eBay...

Think you are right. I will do some further investigation. Appears the original alternator has been swapped out for a later type but will check it out further. It looks nice and shiny so must good (hah hah hah) but I would expect more than 13.1V which is what was showing with the new ignition switch and GEN light off.

 

To be continued 😀😀😀😀

[rodneybeauchamp]

Now to the fuel tank ….. much more fun😀😀😀😀

 

The last couple of times I drove it it let me down, once outside a local hotel where two patrons pushed me to the side of the road. Second time I coasted to the side and eventually it started. Seemed like it was a fuel issue so decided to check. A PO had installed a fuel filter immediately after the electric fuel pump and it was full of rubbish, looking much like white paint flakes, sanding dust and primer flakes plus other rubbish. Replaced that but decided to drop the tank and clean it. 
 

Easier said than done as it is too low to get onto my ramps. A block of 45mm thick timber got over that issue so managed to drain most of the fuel and drop the tank. Had to remove a metal filler protection panel to get the filler past the body but all good. Used my small hacksaw to cut thru the rusted strap bolts and it all dropped down.

 

Moving the tank around I heard several metal objects inside that eventually came out all bar one. The sender filler was plugged too! So I think I found my problem. Cleaned up the surface rust on the top and used a rust converter to neutralise it, along with a primer. Top coat to follow.

 

Made up a new cork seal for the sender along with new fibre washers under the screws replacing the seals that were fitted. Added an earth wire directly to the gauge and added a small square of body sound deadening  under seal to stop the delivery pipe rubbing the tank. 
 

Once painted with a top coat I will stick on top some pieces of waterproof underlay to stop the tank hitting or rubbing on the boot floor (which looks quite clean too). Not in the picture is a new piece of 1/2” fuel hose for the breather pipe along with an extra Corbin clamp as only one was fitted at the lower end.

 

Anyway pictures or it never happened 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

 

[EmTee]

Rodney, how did the inside of the tank look?  Did you have to clean and seal that also?

[rodneybeauchamp]

Thanks Emtee, Inside looked very clean using a torch. I thought seriously about flushing it with water but didn’t want to introduce another problem as being winter here, it may not evaporate completely. I understand there are two baffles inside so difficult to check it all but what I saw was good enough not to dig further. The only thing that concerned me a little was not getting one or two bits of solder (I think) out but don’t think they were the issue.

 

Also checked the resistance of the sender and found it to be 33ohms down to almost zero. The fuel gauge was working OK but did not check the accuracy but it seems close.

 

Tomorrow I will paint the black top coat with a body shutze type of spray that I have had for years. Then go about trying to start it to get it back on the ramps. I am going to have to fix the choke set up as it seems almost impossible to get it started using the manual set up. All I need is the Rochester thematic coil as I can make up the rest from parts I have here.

 

Cheers

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

[rodneybeauchamp]

Turned out pretty nice with just one coat, which is all it will get. Sprays easily and good coverage which has a lot to do with the First Class painter 😀😀😀😀 who applied it.

 

Body deadener was on a half price or better special when I bought six cans in 2015. Still have this plus five full ones left. When this dries will give the sides and the underside a coat too to make it pretty all round.

 

Looks to good to hide, might mount it on top of the boot lid (trunk) for all to see!

 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

[rodneybeauchamp]

Gee this guy can paint good. Even masked the sender unit. Underside looks as good as the top. Give it a day or two and it will go back in.

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

 

[rodneybeauchamp]

Well a bit more work and it is refitted and it runs. Installed new fuel line from the pickup to the pump. The original seemed very soft at one of the holding clips and under suction may collapse enough to give a problem.

 

Used some waterproof underlay that I had left from the passenger floor and provided some cushioning between the boot floor and the tank as there was only a couple of pieces of thin cloth to prevent metal to metal contact. Also used some 2.0mm rubber strip with and adhesive backing on the holding straps to cushion the tank and prevent possible rubbing thru.

 

Just need to put a terminal on the new ground wire and connect into the boot on a tail lamp hold down bolt. Have only added just over a gallon of fuel and so far no leaks on the hoses. Will do a road test during the week and add more fuel but everything seemed to go back together well. Hardest part was rigging up a container of fuel to put it up on the ramps. Some photos show the underlay and the rubber strips on the straps.

 

Pretty happy how it turned out too!

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

[usnavystgc]

That looks really good!

[rodneybeauchamp]

On 8/2/2022 at 2:38 AM, usnavystgc said:

That looks really good!

Thank you. And one last photo showing it it the user friendly position.

 

[rodneybeauchamp]

OK, now the fuel tank is sorted time to tackle the next issue ….. HARD STARTING.

 

For some reasons this has become very difficult to start and once the tank was in would only start when fuel was poured down the carburettor. The hard starting also meant I was losing confidence in the Buick as I did not want to be stranded. Suppose the recent problems have shaken my confidence a bit 🙃🙃🙃🙃
 

Like most fuel problems, 90% are electrical so decided to check the dwell and the timing. Dwell was significantly under 30 degrees meaning the point gap was too wide and the timing was way to far advanced.

 

Interesting that Buick state to set the timing to seven and a half degrees before TDC @ 1050rpm with vacuum advance disconnected. And after it was adjusted noticed the PO had not installed a lock washer on the distributor hold down bolt. (Yikes it was tough to get at and an hot, hot, hot! And I accidentally moved the distributor so do it all again 😀😀😀)
 

So managed to again reset both and adjust the idle to 500rpm in Drive…. So far so good and it seemed to start OK when hot.

 

Also reading a 1963 Buick Service Bulletin (courtesy of Jim Cannon 😀😀) noted that the accelerator pump arm has holes that allow for differing positions based on ambient temperatures that the vehicle is operated. I noted that the PO had it wrong, it should be in the hole furthest from the pivot point, so that is now corrected.

 

I think I have located a source for the thematic coil for the choke so will investigate and get one ordered. I can make up the tube and fitting to the exhaust manifold when that arrives. 
 

It fired up readily after leaving it for two hours but the true test will be in the morning. I’m hopeful that sorting these things is getting it two steps closer to being a fun car to drive again. And pictures otherwise it never happened 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

Edited August 3, 2022 by rodneybeauchamp
Extra information x 2 (see edit history)

[EmTee]

Insufficient dwell certainly works against starting a cold engine.  Hopefully that was most of the problem.  Did you remove the points and look at the condition of the contacts?  Burned contacts will also hurt performance.  In that case, the car may start, but quit running when ignition demand is high (e.g. upon acceleration).

 

It's possible that the timing was set improperly by someone else, but since it sounds like it was significantly off, I suggest checking to make sure that both the centrifugal advance weights and breaker plate attached to the vacuum advance arm move freely.  If you have a hand vacuum pump you can also check the vacuum advance diaphragm for leaks.

[rodneybeauchamp]

10 hours ago, EmTee said:

Insufficient dwell certainly works against starting a cold engine.  Hopefully that was most of the problem.  Did you remove the points and look at the condition of the contacts?  Burned contacts will also hurt performance.  In that case, the car may start, but quit running when ignition demand is high (e.g. upon acceleration).

 

It's possible that the timing was set improperly by someone else, but since it sounds like it was significantly off, I suggest checking to make sure that both the centrifugal advance weights and breaker plate attached to the vacuum advance arm move freely.  If you have a hand vacuum pump you can also check the vacuum advance diaphragm for leaks.

Didn’t realise that point gap made for hard starting but knew it had to be correct. I painted the mark on the balancer and one between the 5 and 10 degree mark on the cover in yellow to make it easier to see. If someone had set the timing correctly before you think that would have been done. Surprised that Buick did not cast the 7 and 1/2 degree mark in the cover if that is their preferred setting. All there is is 10-5-0 😀😀😀😀

No I didn’t check the contact points but from what I could see appeared OK.  I have a new set here for the Riviera I could have used but was being lazy as the best way to fit them is with the distributor on the bench. 🤔🤔🤔Now you mentioned it I think I will go back in there and change them out. Why should I think anything is OK on this one. Do it right, do it once! I did clean up the electrical terminals at the points and the ground terminal inside the distributor.
 

Perhaps the fact that it seems to run sweet when it is running. I did take it around the block and it certainly ran smoothly.

 

The mechanical advance under the rotor is free to move and has been well lubricated by the PO and the vacuum advance is working …. As soon as I connected it back up the RPM increased dramatically. So they appear to be working OK. I don’t have a vacuum pump but will try the suck it and see method to make sure it holds. I have a new one here (vacuum unit) from the Riviera I can use.

 

Will report back on the cold start later when I test it this morning.🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞

[rodneybeauchamp]

Going to sack the mechanic! Failed to start easily this morning after leaving overnight. Eventually it did start but the wear and tear on the starter motor and the battery is not good 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔

 

He told me he was only a pretend mechanic and as such had no formal qualifications. So he spent the rest of the wintery day reading up on ignition systems and trouble shooting hard starting.

 

One thing that I did notice yesterday and when it did start this morning was that it seemed to fire as the key was being released, from the start circuit to the run circuit. As you would be aware I have changed out the ignition switch for a correct NOS unit twice, as one had a wobbly terminal. Could be a fault in the switch or that circuit.

 

Thinking that perhaps the start circuit wiring where it bypasses to resistance circuit May have a problem but not sure how that could be checked. Was also thinking if this circuit was “hot wired” and it starts reliably that this would be a way to prove it is OK/Not OK.

 

I am loath to change out parts unnecessarily although I will do the points. Also had seen on this forum not to use a new condenser because of quality but I have a used one from my Riviera (I think).

 

I am also wondering if the electric fuel pump that the PO installed is not delivering enough fuel or there is some further blockage between it and the fuel pressure regulator and the carburettor. 
 

Hasn’t got me stumped yet but I’m certainly losing faith in its ability to run. No doubt when I locate the real problem and it starts reliably then our relationship will improve.

 

Am almost tempted to remove the distributor so I can closely examine it and install the points without losing any of the pesky little screws. That way when it goes back in at least I know it is in the correct position (although it would not run so nice as it does if it were one or two teeth out 😀😀😀😀😀)

 

As you can probably tell, I am extremely disappointed that it did not start this morning…. But these things are sent to try us. I thought up some new words of wisdom…… Whenever you do something, check it twice. Whenever a PO has done something, always assume it was done incorrectly. The more I dig into this, the more I find.

 

Rodney 🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲

 

As Emtee says

 

18 hours ago, EmTee said:

 

It's possible that the timing was set improperly by someone else, but since it sounds like it was significantly off, 

 

[EmTee]

Rodney, doesn't this car have the Delco distributor with the little adjustment window in the cap?  If so, you shouldn't have to completely remove the two screws holding the breaker points; just loosen them and rotate the pivot end outward and pull them out.  The condenser screw, however, has to be removed.  I have a 'screw-holding' screwdriver similar to this one (https://www.amazon.com/Screw-Holding-Screwdriver-Klein-Tools-K34/dp/B00093GCVO).

Now, I just had an issue with the ignition switch on my boat last weekend. Turned the key and nothing happened.  Repeated turning to 'start' position would sometimes click and a couple of times it actually started and died when I released the key.  Troubleshooting led me back to the ignition switch (which was installed brand-new last year).  I removed the switch and the backside with the terminals was very loose (crimped to the switch body).

 

The point is you can use a 12V test light to troubleshoot the starter circuit.  Clip the light to the '+' terminal on the coil and either use a long wire so you can see the light, or have someone twist the key to 'start'.  The light should turn on.  Release the key to the 'run' position and verify that the light remains on.  If that all happens as expected then the ignition switch should be OK.  Try this several times in order to rule-out an intermittent problem.

[rodneybeauchamp]

13 hours ago, EmTee said:

 

 

Now, I just had an issue with the ignition switch on my boat last weekend. Turned the key and nothing happened.  Repeated turning to 'start' position would sometimes click and a couple of times it actually started and died when I released the key.  Troubleshooting led me back to the ignition switch (which was installed brand-new last year).  I removed the switch and the backside with the terminals was very loose (crimped to the switch body).

 

The point is you can use a 12V test light to troubleshoot the starter circuit.  Clip the light to the '+' terminal on the coil and either use a long wire so you can see the light, or have someone twist the key to 'start'.  The light should turn on.  Release the key to the 'run' position and verify that the light remains on.  If that all happens as expected then the ignition switch should be OK.  Try this several times in order to rule-out an intermittent problem.

OK so first thing this morning I hook up the test light to the positive coil terminal and ground it to the wiper blade so I can see it from the drivers seat. Turn on the key and it lights and turn to start and it starts! Go figure. No choke, no throttle, vroom!

 

Tried this without the test light and it did not want to start, so rigged it back up and after a few tries, it’s running again.

 

Noticed that the light goes out when in the start position, then when started, stays bright. 
 

Thinking I may have an issue in that circuit (start circuit) that bypasses the resister circuit (run circuit). Today is cold, wet and a bit windy, so I might study the books and shop manual. I was also going to rig up a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the positive coil terminal, essentially ‘hot wiring the ignition’ and see what that does. 
 

Wonder if that is what we are doing here, except we are not applying power Hmmmmmm 🤔🤔🤔🤔

 

Thanks Emtee. Well back to the books 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

Edited August 5, 2022 by rodneybeauchamp
Additional information (see edit history)

[rodneybeauchamp]

This is interesting. Here is the test light on full 12V. Much brighter even though it is in shadow.

 

Definitely not full 12V on the run circuit. And the light goes out on the start circuit but it still starts (three times in succession, no choke, no throttle. 

Edited August 5, 2022 by rodneybeauchamp
Additional information (see edit history)

[rodneybeauchamp]

OK, like a detective solving a murder case, I’m getting closer.

Hot wired direct from battery positive to positive side of coil and it starts immediately (if not sooner) while key is in the START position. Proving that my bypass circuit for the resistance wire is not working. I need to trace that back and check for corrosion or open circuit or incorrect connections from a PO.

 

Interesting that it starts so easily without choke or throttle while cold. Garage temperature is approximately 15 degrees C. 

 

Good outcome was that I spent time making up two jumper wires with alligator clips so I could wire the circuit. A project that was on my to do list 😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

Will report back with a verdict!

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

[rodneybeauchamp]

Well, we have success and we won’t sack the mechanic just yet. He is only ever a week by week proposition anyway.

 

By careful diagnosis we narrowed it down to a faulty ignition switch that I installed some time back. Seems that it has an internal problem whereby the IGN 2 circuit was not working. Therefore it would only start when the key was released enabling the IGN 1 circuit with the internal resistance wire to operate and sometimes it would start.

 

I had another switch and immediately substituting that gave a positive starting in the START position. 
 

This time the mechanic removed the under dash speaker to R and R the switch and to test it, meaning no nasty cuts or abrasions ….. smart move as it made it much easier to replace.

 

I will disassemble the other switch sometime and see if it can be repaired. 

 

Several good things have come from this exercise 

 

1. Dwell has been set to factory spec.

2. Timing has been corrected to factory spec.

3. Lock washer installed on distributor hold down bolt.

4. Mechanical and vacuum advance are verified working.

5. Systematic approach to diagnosis rather than swapping out parts not knowing.

 

Not quite the weather for a test but I will do that as soon as I can, confident that it will now start and run as it should.

 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

[EmTee]

Congratulations - glad you found the problem!  It's interesting that the problem with your Skylark was essentially the same issue I suffered with my boat.  And, in both cases the culprit was a recently installed ignition switch.  It seems nowadays that when a problem occurs you can't ignore something in the chain of events simply because it is 'new' or recently replaced.  I'm finding that many times it's the 'last thing touched' in that chain that should be investigated first.

[rodneybeauchamp]

53 minutes ago, EmTee said:

Congratulations - glad you found the problem!  It's interesting that the problem with your Skylark was essentially the same issue I suffered with my boat.  And, in both cases the culprit was a recently installed ignition switch.  It seems nowadays that when a problem occurs you can't ignore something in the chain of events simply because it is 'new' or recently replaced.  I'm finding that many times it's the 'last thing touched' in that chain that should be investigated first.

Thanks. Appreciated your post as it clued me in to the right direction. One thing I didn’t want to do was swap out a whole lot of things willy nilly and still not fix it as when running it was fine. Many times on these forums you read where everything has been swapped for new yet the problem persists. 
 

And I admit I was not keen to swap out the switch as last time was painful with lots of scratches and cuts to my hands because of the limited access. This time by taking out the speaker made it easier and quicker too!
 

Honing one’s skills in testing and diagnosing problems using a methodical approach is probably the quickest and most economical way to fix a problem rather than using a scatter gun approach. I think I might invest in more testing equipment. 
 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

[EmTee]

3 minutes ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

I think I might invest in more testing equipment. 

I'll take almost any excuse for more tools! 

[usnavystgc]

I say keep the mechanic on the payroll.  He's doing ok. 

[EmTee]

Yeah, I guess he should stay -- it's hard to find good help these days... 

[rodneybeauchamp]

Well, nice to be out and about enjoying a drop of sunshine during our winter. I was a bit hesitant this morning with all the previous dramas it has had but was meeting up with Lester (our Cars n Coffee organiser) to go to breakfast at Goolwa. Must say that all that hard work paid off as it started easily and performed flawlessly, perhaps the best it has ever ran since my ownership.

 

Certainly having the timing settings spot on makes a huge difference in how it runs, very smooth and very quiet, very “Buick Like”, as it should. Lots of comments and admiring glances from several people and some photos taken.

 

Must admit, like me, it is very photogenic! 
 

And decided to increase its value by filling the tank too!

 

Very pleased with todays run, very pleased. Photos otherwise it never happened! And it lived up to its name …. Mr Happy.

 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Edited August 9, 2022 by rodneybeauchamp
Details (see edit history)

[rodneybeauchamp]

And took a nice drive out to Normanville Cafe, in Normanville, a coastal town on the other side of the Fleurieu Peninsula for a refreshing drink and a look at what they are doing to the area. Then back into Victor Harbor for some grocery shopping that we all love to do. Nice to get Jo out and about and first time she has experienced our new seatbelts.
 

She was very happy with the outing. And so was I, the Skylark performed flawlessly again, starting right up every time, which is how it should be.

 

And the one picture I took was when we returned home. Speedo now on 67,624miles meaning we have driven only 1,471 in our ownership. Need to do better than that!

 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

 

Edited August 9, 2022 by rodneybeauchamp
Correction (see edit history)

[Machine Gun]

That's a very pretty car you have there. Glad you got the performance issues sorted out.

[rodneybeauchamp]

8 hours ago, Machine Gun said:

That's a very pretty car you have there. Glad you got the performance issues sorted out.

Thank you. So am I. I enjoy reading your posts about your ‘64 as they have a special memory for me when we bought one back in 1990 😀😀😀😀😀

[rodneybeauchamp]

Had a few minutes so checked out the non working ignition switch. The Bakelite base fits only one way because of cutouts in the metal casing which is swaged (sway, shag and swagged according to self correcting @#$&$#@& iPad ) in three places. Marked a terminal in red matching the case to get it back together the same way.
 

Gentle tapping with a light hammer and screwdriver straightened them enough to allow it to come apart. Never been inside one of these before so was going to be interesting.

 

Not many parts at all. Noticed that all the metal contacts were lightly corroded so a quick brush up with a Dremel made everything new again. You can see in the last photo the light corrosion. Gave each contact a smear of dielectric grease and reassembled it. A socket placed at the terminal end allowed it to be gently squeezed back together keeping it tight in the vice while I was able to reswage the case.

 

A quick check with the multimeter confirmed there was power available on the START and RUN circuits where previously the START circuit was dead.

 

I would now suggest that anyone who has a bad ignition switch may want to carefully take it apart and examine the contacts as there is not much else that could give problems. Besides you have zero to lose and everything to gain by keeping an original part in service. My only reason for buying new is the one in the Skylark was incorrect from the PO.

These are photos taken as it came apart so it would go back together the same way. I now have a known working spare that I might swap out when I have nothing else better to do!

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

Edited August 12, 2022 by rodneybeauchamp
Corrections (see edit history)

[EmTee]

Rodney, was the Bakelite piece securely in place before you disassembled it?  My boat switch failed because the crimps holding that portion were loose, causing loss of continuity.  In your case, it sounds like oxidation on the contacts was the culprit.  That's the risk with certain NOS parts these days...

[rodneybeauchamp]

10 hours ago, EmTee said:

Rodney, was the Bakelite piece securely in place before you disassembled it?  My boat switch failed because the crimps holding that portion were loose, causing loss of continuity.  In your case, it sounds like oxidation on the contacts was the culprit.  That's the risk with certain NOS parts these days...

Not 100% sure if it was loose but if it was not secure in the metal housing that may have provided enough of a gap to not make contact. Certainly there were marks on the contact surfaces when I disassembled it seen in the last photo.

 

Perhaps when put back together and it was secured in the vice with the socket pushing on the Bakelite that it closed up enough to make the contact.

 

There was also a  brass pin seen in picture 4 that was spring loaded that I cleaned and made certain it was free. Do know what that does. Yeah, Not 100% sure of the issue but it works using the multi meter testing. 😳😳😳😳😳

[rodneybeauchamp]

Well a few more things. Our Cars n Coffee group plan to celebrate Old Car Day this Thursday and our local newspaper Fleurieu Sun got wind and wanted some photos for an article. So a morning photo shoot with Lester and his ‘66 Mustang with some nice break in the weather. It is still winter here until the first and as I write this it is cats and dogs outside most of today.

 

After the shoot we then headed out on the route we will take and had coffee at a little cafe then onto Hindmarsh Island where we will have lunch on the day. With top down it was fresh but with some gloves and a scarf just cosy.

 

Twenty minutes after I got back it poured! The rain gods were smiling. Speedo showing  67,694 miles which means 1541 so far. Probably out of warranty too!.  😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

Edited August 22, 2022 by rodneybeauchamp
Mileage information (see edit history)

[rodneybeauchamp]

And today a work day. Have been chasing down a source of an annoying shimmy that seems to come from the LHS front. The shimmy seems to be only at low speed, less than 30mph and is intermittent depending on the road surface. At higher speeds it runs quite smooth but the shimmy is very unBuick like. It should be smooth all the time.

 

Sure being a convertible there is some scuttle shake, but the shimmy is not part of that. The other day I had it on my ramps to examine the steering and front end parts and apart from a missing bumper bar bolt at one end and a broken earth strap at the front of the engine support cradle, everything appeared as it should.

 

So today I removed checked and replaced the inner and outer wheel bearings. The ones I removed appeared OK and I had adjusted them previously but wanted to eyeball them. Found this small indentation on the inner bearing cup but not sure it is the cause of the problem. So was happy to replace them. Also checked the bolts holding the brake backing plate to the steering knuckle and made sure they were torqued to 65foot pounds.
 

On Wednesday I will get a chance to check it out again with a drive and see if the new bearings have made a difference.

 

What worries me is that it may be the isolation bushes (3) that support the engine cradle, steering and front suspension. So far I have balanced the wheels all round, changed out the idler arm support bracket, had a wheel alignment check, replaced shockers all round. Sure I have noticed an improvement but it has not gone away entirely.

 

Photos show the small indent in the outer bearing cup.

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Edited August 22, 2022 by rodneybeauchamp
Details added and corrections (see edit history)

[JohnD1956]

Did you swap the front tires to see if the shimmy moves to the other side? 

[Machine Gun]

4 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

Probably out of warranty too!.  

Not a problem. Surely you get daily calls offering to extend your car's warranty.

[EmTee]

4 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

The shimmy seems to be only at low speed, less than 30mph and is intermittent depending on the road surface.

Jack up the wheel and look closely at the wheel and tire while spinning it.  Pay particular attention to lateral and radial runout.  My experience has been low speed 'shimmy' is usually due to belt shift in a tire.  I assume you're running radials, right?  Place a pencil on the ground with the point aligned with the center of the tire and watch for tread shift as the tire spins.

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

I agree with EmTee

 

  Ben

[old-tank]

What is the date code on those tires?