1936 Chrysler Airstream C-8 Convertible Restoration

[Professor]

I was side-tracked putting pantyhose on my C8.  I started playing with a C8 water pump that I found that was stuck.  The water pump looks the same as mine on the outside, but the part number on the housing (626821) is not the part number listed for either the C7 or C8 Airstream water pump and I cannot get a hit on this number on Google.  I took all the bolts out of the pulley and bypass hose assembly. Interestingly, this pump had an air release pipe fitting at the top of the bypass hose assembly while the water pump on my C8 does not.  I removed the grease fitting and found petrified grease in the cavity.  Using medical swabs, I cleaned out the cavity first with the stick end of the swab, and then I put the cotton end in gasoline and swabbed the cavity as best I could.  I used a handful of swabs before the cotton end of the Q-tips came out mostly clean.  Then I sprayed in some PB-Blaster and rocked the impeller back and forth.  The impeller came free after a few minutes and spun smoothly and without any play in the hub assembly.

 

I cleaned the pb-blaster out with more cotton swabs, and then I added the proper calcium based water soluble water pump grease (with the grease fitting off) and packed the cavity using pressure from my finger on the grease and using swab sticks to make sure the grease filled the cavity.  With the cavity filled, I pumped grease through the fitting until it was clean and then installed the fitting.  I spun the impeller and it now moves freely by hand, but I certainly cannot spin it.  The assembly is smooth, but tight, with zero measurable free play either radially or axially.   The bolts in the hub and the bypass assembly are factory bolts, leading me to believe that this has been sitting around a long time.

 

Here are some images of the pump:

 

 

Edited May 29, 2022 by Professor (see edit history)

[Professor]

One additional item.  After setting the timing to TDC from approximately 5 degrees BTDC, I notice a few very substantial changes:

 

1.  The engine spins much more quickly during starting.

2. The engine now starts almost immediately; 1 full revolution or so when warm and a few revolutions when cold.

3.  The heat soak problem is completely gone now.  The car starts almost immediately when hot.  Today was a 90 degree day and I ran it for 20 minutes or so total at 70 mph, turned it off and shopped for 30 or so minutes, and when I came out, the Chrysler started immediately.

 

I cannot say how much item 3 is due to timing since I did not pay attention to it,… but Items 1 and 2 are definitely timing related.

 

Joe

[Bloo]

Item 1 is definitely related. Item 2 will probably get even better as the repairs break in and you continue to fine tune things. Item 3 is excellent news. I doubt there is any relation to timing. More timing is better until the point it isn't.

[Professor]

File this under “Isn’t sorting a car fun?”

 

Yesterday I had my first ever starter issue.  I started the Chrysler to take a short drive and when I got there, turned off the engine for a few minutes, and then tried to start it… I got absolutely nothing.  The only I sound when I tried to start the car was the light click of the electric choke mechanism engaging.  I waited 15 minutes or so, trying different things, and nothing worked.  I tried one last time and the starter engaged and started right up.  The three minute drive back to my house was enough to cause the starter not to work again.  This morning, on a cold start, the starter worked about 5 times in a row (start, stop, start, stop…) and then nothing.

 

I bypassed the starter switch with a remote start and it was no different.  Starter switch is good.

I turned on the headlights, honked the horn, and measured the charge on the battery with a battery charger/tender and it is at 96%.  Battery is good.

 

I am going to clean all the connections to the starter and see if I can isolate the problem.  With any luck, it will be a bad connection to the starter.  I am hopeful that if it isn’t a bad connection, that it is the solenoid contacts.  I will test and then remove the solenoid if it is not sending power to the starter.

 

It’s funny… I don’t even mind this issue much.  Rebuilding the starter is on my to-do list, and while I would have preferred to drive the Chrysler longer before the next issue cropped up, I will be happily working on it today.   Someone told me that rebuilding the C8 starter is a bit of a pain because of the complexity of the solenoid engagement system.  I have not looked at a drawing yet.

 

Standby for more!

 

Joe

[Professor]

Removed the starter and there were several issues with it:

 

1.  The solenoid point gap was .61 and it should have been .25

2.  The solenoid points were pitted and not making good contact

3.  The solenoid negative terminal (remember, this is positive ground) was lose, allowing the primary terminal to chip away at the internal insulator which was about 30% missing.

4.  The brushes while good, were very dirty from wear.  I could hardly see the armature from all the brush debri.  The whole starter needed cleaning badly.

5. The shift mechanism and solenoid plunger were sorely in need of lubrication.

 

Everything except fabricating the internal insulator was pretty easy but time consuming.  It took 4.5 hours start to finish.  It started up first time, every time, even after a heat soak.  I will take it for a long drive shortly and let it get really hot and then test it.  I will update the thread once I finish the test drive.  I will also upload some pictures.

 

Joe

[VW4X4]

1 hour ago, Professor said:

Removed the starter and there were several issues with it:

 

1.  The solenoid point gap was .61 and it should have been .25

2.  The solenoid points were pitted and not making good contact

3.  The solenoid negative terminal (remember, this is positive ground) was lose, allowing the primary terminal to chip away at the internal insulator which was about 30% missing.

4.  The brushes while good, were very dirty from wear.  I could hardly see the armature from all the brush debri.  The whole starter needed cleaning badly.

5. The shift mechanism and solenoid plunger were sorely in need of lubrication.

 

Everything except fabricating the internal insulator was pretty easy but time consuming.  It took 4.5 hours start to finish.  It started up first time, every time, even after a heat soak.  I will take it for a long drive shortly and let it get really hot and then test it.  I will update the thread once I finish the test drive.  I will also upload some pictures.

 

Joe

No pictures?   I'm wonder how this starter compares to the six cylinder?

 

ERIC

[Professor]

I just arrived back from a 30 minute test drive and the Chrysler started up immediately after I turned it off.  With any luck, I have solved the issue and perhaps tomorrow I will be able to finish the pantyhose treatment.

 

Here are a few images Eric:

 

 

[SuperJonas]

Professor,

 

   Regarding the water pump, you already know the 8 pumps are like rare earth elements; should you choose the rebuild route on one, recommend the Dutchman do the work and ask him to upgrade the impeller to the 6 vane; mine made a noticeable difference on the temperature and it now sits at maximum 160 degrees on the gauge regardless of weather or driving condition. 

 

  I had the CZ out in a parade this weekend, took some pictures of my fuel line up to the carb and will send them when I have an opportunity.  The '35 to '36 8s aren't much different. Hope this helps, thanks.

 

Greg

[Professor]

Thanks @SuperJonas.  I wold love to see as many images as you care to share.  My exhaust system is not factory so it would be nice to see how your exhaust is routed, the fuel line, and if you have a factory heater, I would love to see how it is routed.  Actually… just send me a thousand pictures.  LOL.

 

You can send them to drjoewest@icloud.com if you would prefer not to post them here.  Thanks so much Greg.

 

Joe

 

1 hour ago, SuperJonas said:

Professor,

 

   Regarding the water pump, you already know the 8 pumps are like rare earth elements; should you choose the rebuild route on one, recommend the Dutchman do the work and ask him to upgrade the impeller to the 6 vane; mine made a noticeable difference on the temperature and it now sits at maximum 160 degrees on the gauge regardless of weather or driving condition. 

 

  I had the CZ out in a parade this weekend, took some pictures of my fuel line up to the carb and will send them when I have an opportunity.  The '35 to '36 8s aren't much different. Hope this helps, thanks.

 

Greg

 

[VW4X4]

7 hours ago, Professor said:

I just arrived back from a 30 minute test drive and the Chrysler started up immediately after I turned it off.  With any luck, I have solved the issue and perhaps tomorrow I will be able to finish the pantyhose treatment.

 

Here are a few images Eric:

 

 

Thanks....   That sure does look like a six cylinder starter...

[Professor]

According to my parts manual, the C7 came with a floor switch and no solenoid.  In the attached pages from the maintenance manual, you can see the different part numbers and descriptions, and the illustration of each starter.  It would not surprise me at all if the manuals did not reflect what was actually installed on our cars.

 

Joe

 

 

 

7 hours ago, VW4X4 said:

Thanks....   That sure does look like a six cylinder starter...

 

[zeke01]

Professor: PM sent. Zeke

[VW4X4]

2 hours ago, Professor said:

According to my parts manual, the C7 came with a floor switch and no solenoid.  In the attached pages from the maintenance manual, you can see the different part numbers and descriptions, and the illustration of each starter.  It would not surprise me at all if the manuals did not reflect what was actually installed on our cars.

 

Joe

 

 

 

 

All C7, that I've even seen, all had a solenoid on the starter.  Plymouth and Dodge, not that I've ever seen. 

When documents are just wrong like that, it really makes me wonder.  I've gone as far as throwing books like this out.

 ERIc

[Piaras]

Don’t forget that original parts can be superseded multiple times as time marches on. Since a starter is a wearing part, it may of been updated at that time. The OEM books only reflect what was it at time of printing. Supplements would of been mailed to dealers as required, and even complete new books at times. Had many editions and inserts cross our desk in Parts and Service over the years.

Pierre

[Professor]

I just noticed that both my engine block and the bell housing are stamped with a “1-6” number.  I wonder if this is a date or time stamp.

[Professor]

Here is someone advertising a C7 starter on eBay and it is a non-solenoid starter for a six cylinder.

 

 

[VW4X4]

1 hour ago, Professor said:

Here is someone advertising a C7 starter on eBay and it is a non-solenoid starter for a six cylinder.

 

 

That's not correct, I can guaranty it.  

 

Edited May 31, 2022 by VW4X4 (see edit history)

[maok]

 I'd be surprised if the c7&c8 starters aren't the same.

[Professor]

Well… at least it agrees with the factory parts list and the factory maintenance manual!  🙂. 

 

2 hours ago, VW4X4 said:

That's not correct, I can guaranty it.  

 

 

[Professor]

Out with the old and in with the new…

(And no leaks).

 

 

[Professor]

After fabricating the new fuel line, I re-torqued the head… the nuts barely moved so I am done re-torquing for now.  I may check it in 500 miles or so, but the values have settled.

 

I have to work tomorrow, but on Friday I will rebuild my temperature sending unit by replacing the factory ether bulb with the bulb from a new Bosh mechanical gauge.  The diameter of the copper tube from the Bosh unit will slide inside the factory copper tube and I will solder the new bulb (encased in ice water to keep the ether from boiling off) and copper tube to the old copper tube.  When I am done, I should have a working unit that I can then mechanically calibrate using boiling water (a known 212 F at my altitude).

 

I also used an infrared laser gun to measure the temperature of the head water jacket (164 F), thermostat housing (162 F) and top of radiator (160.5 F) and am pleased with the readings. With any luck, It will be easy to calibrate the rebuilt temperature gauge by gently bending the Bourdon tube so that 165 measured at the head near the new ether bulb will register the same temperature on my gauge.  If nothing else, it will be a fun experiment.

 

I attached an image of the bottle of Ether.  Notice that 250ml is gone because the shipper failed to tighten the lid properly OR used defective securing tape. The package smelled so strongly of ether that I was surprised the driver did not pass out.  Ether was used as the first effective general anesthetic.  It really revolutionized surgery by allowing them to be relatively painless (well… for the day anyway).

 

Joe

 

 

[SuperJonas]

Professor,

 

   The new fuel line is remarkably close to mine, just a length of steel tubing up and around the manifolds; yes there is no fuel filter from the pump to carb, just the sediment bowl on the pump itself. 

 

  One thing it appears you need remains the heat shield which rests over the fuel pump.  It is a ribbed black metal piece, slightly bent upward with a cut out on top (to accommodate the vacuum chamber of the pump).  It mounts on three studs which are attached to the pump and secured by one nut each.  You can vaguely spot it on the 3rd picture attached here.  I wish I could get a better picture of it but it's mostly obscured by the manifold. I have no idea where you could find one and the best bet would be to fabricate something similar as it's sole job appears to keep the heat away from the pump.  

 

   Yes, I will attempt to get some more pictures for you of the car and exhaust routing; I have a heater as well. Unfortunately, I can't access the car until the weekend in most cases as I travel for work.  I have been following along on your journey and while mine is a Deluxe Touring Sedan which has sat untouched for decades, the similarities are many between our cars. 

 

  Hope these help somewhat and sorry I couldn't get more but will follow-up when I am able, thanks!

 

Greg

 

   

[Professor]

Thanks Greg,

 

I routed my fuel line using the the “Limit exposure to the exhaust manifold” logic used by others here.  I tried to minimize any parallel runs with the exhaust manifold and kept the line as far away from the manifold as I possibly could.  I think that @Bloo noted that this is simple thermodynamics.

 

I know about the heat shield for the fuel pump, but I have not been able to get my hands on a drawing so that mine is an accurate reflection of the factory heat shield.  The maintenance manual has several shots of the shield, but not from enough angles for me to make a 3D replica.  I will keep looking for something with measurements and try to create one from sheet metal. 

 

Joe

[Randiego]

Joe,

Nice job on the fuel line.  It looks like an OEM part.  On another issue.  Before you solder the tube to the new bulb for your temp guage, I would anneal the rest of the tube getting as close to the guage as you can.  86 year old copper tube will be brittle and bending it can cause it to fracture. 

 

In most cases, they will be minute cracks but enough to give you angst, especially if the temp gauge dosen't work when you are all done.  Wrap a wet strip of cloth around the tube for a heat shrink preventing the heat from traveling any further and then heat the tube.  This will soften the copper. 

 

Nothing worse than to go through the work of mating a new bulb to the tube just to have it "crack" in a different spot undoing all your work on installing the new bulb. 

 

I always anneal the copper washers that are used on brake and other components of the car, ensuring a good seal when installing the part(s)

[Professor]

June 03 Update:

 

Today was rebuild the mechanical temperature gauge day.  Executive Summary: a relatively easy job that most anyone can do. 

 

Details

 

Essentially, I purchased a new Bosch 8207 mechanical temperature gauge and soldered the new bulb (and a small portion of new copper tube) on to my existing factory gauge.  

 

The first step is to grab a good insulated cup (I used my Yeti) filled with ice and then add water just to cover the ice.  You will insert the Bosch bulb in the ice water to keep the Ether from boiling off when you cut the line.  Let it soak in the water for 15-30 minutes and then measure 8-12 inches from the bulb and cut the spring that surrounds the Bosch copper tube.  Pull the spring back to expose the Bosch copper tube and then flatten a 1/8” section of the copper line with a pair of needle nose pliers and then cut the tube at the flattened portion of the tube furthest from the bulb and fold 1/16” of flattened tube back on itself to seal the bulb and ether mixture.  Cut the Bosch spring at the Bosch bulb and remove it.  You will be using your factory spring.

 

Leave the cup and bulb in the house while you go outside and work on your gauge.

 

Drain your radiator and engine block.

 

Cut the wire surrounding your factory gauge at the factory bulb if you still have one.  All you want is a bare copper wire surrounded by the protective spring. Trim approximately 1” of the factory protective spring by cutting the spring 1” above your previous cut which removed the bulb.  Do NOT cut the factory copper tube.  Save the wire you remove as you will use it to cover the Bosch copper wire to give you a more factory look.

 

Next, anneal the copper tube with a torch to soften it.  I used a butane torch and it heated the factory copper tube and spring pretty quickly.  I only annealed about 12” of the factory copper tube because this is the area I am working.

 

Next, sand the exposed end of the factory tube to get to shiny copper (necessary because you will be soldering it later), and then drill out the center of the tube with a 1/32 drill followed by a 3/64 drill followed by a 1/16 drill.  Drill dead center of the factory copper tube, and only drill about 3/16 deep.  Tin 1/4” of the factory tube with a hot soldering iron.  I used a little hand held propane soldering iron on high heat.

 

Go back in the house to your Bosch setup on ice and carefully cut the flattened portion of the tube off leaving at least 1/4” of exposed copper tube.  Insert a 27ga hypodermic needle into the end of the Bosch copper tube to open the hole after you cut it (I used a thin Dremel cutoff wheel and it created a clean cut).  

 

This step is probably optional, but I did it.  If you do not lose any ether when you do your cuts, you should be fine not adding ether. 

 

Using an 8ga needle, II drew up 3cc of ether into a 5cc syringe from my glass container of Ether (which was sitting in a pan of ice water), took off the 8ga needle and connected the syringe to the needle sitting in the end of the Bosch copper tube.  I slowly added 3cc of ether until it came running out of the end of the copper tube. 

 

Carry the Bosh bulb in ice water out to your car. Install the cut off factory spring you removed earlier over the Bosch copper tube.  Leaving the bulb in the ice water, sand the end of the Bosch tube and test fit it into the factory copper tube.  Keep sanding the Bosch tube until the copper tube slides into the factory copper tube roughly 3/16”.

 

Now, hold your hot, tinned soldering iron on the factory copper tube about 3/16 from the end and feed solder into the junction between the new Bosch copper tube and the factory tube.  The heat from the soldering iron will wick the solder into the junction and seal it.  You can (and I did) add additional solder to the junction to strengthen it.

 

Inspect the solder joint and make certain there are no voids or cracks.

 

Take the Bosch bulb out of the ice water and warm it in the palm of your hand while you sniff the solder junction.  If you smell ether (A definite chemical smell), put the Bosch bulb back in the ice water and fix your mistake.

 

When this is all done, install the new Bosch fitting into your head (DO NOT try to use the factory fitting, it is incorrect for the Bosch bulb) using teflon tape if you like (I do) and then install the Bosch sensor into the new fitting in the head (I used teflon tape again).

 

Now, strengthen the junction where you spliced your factory copper tube to your Bosch copper tube.  I just slid my factory spring ends together as close as I could get them and then used electrical tape to reinforce the junction.  My car came with a (non-factory, I think) clamp on the firewall that supports the temperature gauge spring wire.  The clamp hides a portion of the electrical tape I used to strengthen the connection.

 

Replace the drain plugs and refill your cooling system.

 

Fire her up and let it get to temperature.  You should see your gauge functioning properly, although it may not be calibrated.  My gauge was close as verified by a laser temperature sensor.

 

Attached are some images which should make the above text make more sense.

 

[Professor]

More images

 

 

[Professor]

And now for the Doh! Moment:

 

I soldered the two copper tubes together only to find out that I forgot to remove the Yeti cup lid.  The Bosch sensor in the ice water was too large for the Yeti cup lid, so I had to sacrifice the lid.

 

Doh!

 

 

[Professor]

I forgot to upload a temperature measurement:

 

 

[Steve9]

3 hours ago, Professor said:

And now for the Doh! Moment:

 

I soldered the two copper tubes together only to find out that I forgot to remove the Yeti cup lid.  The Bosch sensor in the ice water was too large for the Yeti cup lid, so I had to sacrifice the lid.

 

Doh!

 

 

Painfull. I know with Yeti prices that’s probably a $20 lid!

[Professor]

Next project was rebuilding the Mopar fog lights I have.  I think that these fog lights may be the incorrect year since they are 5”, but I have read conflicting information. Most things on the web seem to indicate that 5” were for the post 48 cars and 6” were for the 48 and earlier.  I am not certain what is correct, but I am guessing that 6” is correct for my car.

 

I had to weld the hollow threaded assembly on one of the lights.  Someone over-tightened it and the hollow threaded rod broke at the base of the light.  I completely disassembled both lights, welded the broken hollow threaded tube on the left light, cleaned everything, and then made new internal and external harnesses using the correct cloth wire from Rhode Island Wiring.

 

Hard to believe that it took me a solid 9 hours to do all of this work (working slowly and carefully), but I am glad it is done.  Tomorrow will be the fun part; I get to create the body wire and wire up the NOS switch I have.

 

I don’t suppose anyone here has original wiring instructions for Mopar fog lights… if so, I could sure use it to make sure I route the wire properly.  I think the routing will be obvious once I get under the car (I will route it alongside the factory harness), but it would be cool to see how it should be routed.

 

Joe

[Professor]

Close… $10 on Amazon.

 

On 6/3/2022 at 11:26 PM, Steve9 said:

Painfull. I know with Yeti prices that’s probably a $20 lid!

 

[VW4X4]

4 hours ago, Professor said:

Next project was rebuilding the Mopar fog lights I have.  I think that these fog lights may be the incorrect year since they are 5”, but I have read conflicting information. Most things on the web seem to indicate that 5” were for the post 48 cars and 6” were for the 48 and earlier.  I am not certain what is correct, but I am guessing that 6” is correct for my car.

 

I had to weld the hollow threaded assembly on one of the lights.  Someone over-tightened it and the hollow threaded rod broke at the base of the light.  I completely disassembled both lights, welded the broken hollow threaded tube on the left light, cleaned everything, and then made new internal and external harnesses using the correct cloth wire from Rhode Island Wiring.

 

Hard to believe that it took me a solid 9 hours to do all of this work (working slowly and carefully), but I am glad it is done.  Tomorrow will be the fun part; I get to create the body wire and wire up the NOS switch I have.

 

I don’t suppose anyone here has original wiring instructions for Mopar fog lights… if so, I could sure use it to make sure I route the wire properly.  I think the routing will be obvious once I get under the car (I will route it alongside the factory harness), but it would be cool to see how it should be routed.

 

Joe

Joe,

    I have to assume you are talking about fog lights that were a factory option?   I have yet to find any type of option list that was available for the Airstream.  I've only seen fog light once before on the Airstream , in a magazine.  I always thought these were aftermarket. 

 

ERIC

[Professor]

Hi Eric,

 

I think that they were a dealer-added item for many Chryslers, but I am no expert.  I am certain that the fog lights I have are Mopar items since both the lenses and the body are marked MoPar.  I have seen images of several Airstreams with MoPar fog lights, but they may be owner added (like mine).

 

This said, Mr. Taylor told me that the 1936 Airstream he rode in back in 1938 had musical horns and fog lights, so if the fog lights were not dealer-added, the man who bought the 1936 Airstream that Mr. Taylor rode in (which he bought brand new) had them added fairly quickly. 

 

My goal is to build this car as it came from the factory and add the two options that Mr. Taylor mentioned, even if they are not correct for the car.  

 

Hopefully others will chime in with some details related to fog lights.  Thanks Eric!

 

Joe

 

8 hours ago, VW4X4 said:

Joe,

    I have to assume you are talking about fog lights that were a factory option?   I have yet to find any type of option list that was available for the Airstream.  I've only seen fog light once before on the Airstream , in a magazine.  I always thought these were aftermarket. 

 

ERIC

 

[Bloo]

They say MoPar on the lenses? What kind of bulb do they take? Speaking generally, and not MoPar specific, I would say if they are sealed beam, they are post 1939 and much more likely postwar. I would not get hung up on the size unless you can get some factory documentation to tell you otherwise. Most cars in prewar pictures do not have auxiliary lights at all, and most that do have one light. There is only so much the charging systems of the day can do. Still, a few cars wound up with 2 auxiliary lights.

 

For best brightness, use a relay and pull the current for the bulbs from the generator side of the ammeter, or from the "bat" terminal of the regulator which is just the other end of the same wire. Run dedicated grounds to the light housings, or better yet to the sockets if it is practical.

 

 

[VW4X4]

1 hour ago, Bloo said:

They say MoPar on the lenses? What kind of bulb do they take? Speaking generally, and not MoPar specific, I would say if they are sealed beam, they are post 1939 and much more likely postwar. I would not get hung up on the size unless you can get some factory documentation to tell you otherwise. Most cars in prewar pictures do not have auxiliary lights at all, and most that do have one light. There is only so much the charging systems of the day can do. Still, a few cars wound up with 2 auxiliary lights.

 

For best brightness, use a relay and pull the current for the bulbs from the generator side of the ammeter, or from the "bat" terminal of the regulator which is just the other end of the same wire. Run dedicated grounds to the light housings, or better yet to the sockets if it is practical.

 

 

This is one reason I changed over to 12v electrical system.  Doing a little math you can quickly figure that just running a few options on 6 volts, like lighting and a heater fan, and you are exceeding the limits of the charging system.  Considering real life situations, that nothing works at 100%, and I don't honestly know how these car ran as well as they did.  OR  Maybe  they didn't... ?

ERIC

 

[Bloo]

6 volts is fine with everything sorted. It worked then. It's not like 12 volt systems didn't exist. Hupmobile, Studebaker, and Dodge Brothers among others had 12 volt systems and dropped them in favor of more modern 6 volt systems. 12v conversions are much harder to sort out. Most are done badly. It doesn't have to be that way but it usually is. Making some of the 6v stuff work afterward is not to bad. Making all of it work is dicey at best. Some things never do (like the Chrysler M6). 12 volts makes a lot of sense in things like street rods where the radio, heater, gauges, etc. will all be 12v items. Some people have to do it because there is some 12v item they can't live without. I hear that a lot about air conditioning.

 

The size of a 6v charging system can sure be limiting in the 30s, not so much after 1940. 40-45 amp charging systems became fairly common. The parts usually retrofit back to earlier years without too much grief if needed.

 

Edited June 6, 2022 by Bloo (see edit history)

[Piaras]

On the Town and Country National Woodie club site, someone posted a 1942 accessories catalog. There are fog lights listed, but no dimensions.

Pierre

[36 D2 Coupe]

Just a historical note - the use of the MoPaR brand by Chrysler first appeared August 1, 1937 for a line of antifreeze developed by Chrysler.  It would be some time after that before the MoPar brand would appear on Chrysler Corp.  parts. Up until then the DPCD logo was used, so anything from 1936 would have had that marking. MoPar branded parts would have to have been produced from 1938 or later. 

[Professor]

With the Optima batteries (two in parallel) I run, I have such a huge capacity that I am not at all concerned about running accessories.  I prefer to stay 6V because this is how my car left the factory and ever since I replaced all of the wiring with new Rhode Island Wiring harnesses, I do not have a single electrical problem. It seems that I run a charging deficit when I use my heater on high with the headlights on, and even then, the deficit runs about 7 amps peak.

 

4 hours ago, VW4X4 said:

This is one reason I changed over to 12v electrical system.  Doing a little math you can quickly figure that just running a few options on 6 volts, like lighting and a heater fan, and you are exceeding the limits of the charging system.  Considering real life situations, that nothing works at 100%, and I don't honestly know how these car ran as well as they did.  OR  Maybe  they didn't... ?

ERIC

 

 

3 hours ago, Bloo said:

6 volts is fine with everything sorted. It worked then. It's not like 12 volt systems didn't exist. Hupmobile, Studebaker, and Dodge Brothers among others had 12 volt systems and dropped them in favor of more modern 6 volt systems. 12v conversions are much harder to sort out. Most are done badly. It doesn't have to be that way but it usually is. Making some of the 6v stuff work afterward is not to bad. Making all of it work is dicey at best. Some things never do (like the Chrysler M6). 12 volts makes a lot of sense in things like street rods where the radio, heater, gauges, etc. will all be 12v items. Some people have to do it because there is some 12v item they can't live without. I hear that a lot about air conditioning.

 

The size of a 6v charging system can sure be limiting in the 30s, not so much after 1940. 40-45 amp charging systems became fairly common. The parts usually retrofit back to earlier years without too much grief if needed.

 

 

[Professor]

Thanks Jim.  This seems to add to the mounting evidence that earlier Chryslers used the larger 6” fog lights.  Speaking of this, one of my fog lights was stamped with Feb 12, 1948.  As far as I can tell, 1948 was the transition year for Chrysler fog lights.

 

With any luck, I will find someone with 6” fog lights who needs the 5” version and I can swap with them.  Till then, I will run the 5” versions.  Speaking of which, it is time for me to go wire these fog lights up!

 

 

 

1 hour ago, 36 D2 Coupe said:

Just a historical note - the use of the MoPaR brand by Chrysler first appeared August 1, 1937 for a line of antifreeze developed by Chrysler.  It would be some time after that before the MoPar brand would appear on Chrysler Corp.  parts. Up until then the DPCD logo was used, so anything from 1936 would have had that marking. MoPar branded parts would have to have been produced from 1938 or later.