Cowel vent leaking

[Turbosl2]

Since we are quarantine I have spent many weeks restoring my 1941 Buick 40 series, the only thing left to seal all the leaks is the cowel vent. I replaced the drain, New seal, drain was previously clogged, but the cowel still dumps water all over the front floor and under the dash. What’s the trick on these? I can pickup the cowel and move it around like it’s not attached solid. The arm under the dash moves it up and down fine but it’s like it flops around in the cutout. What am I missing to keep this leakproof? Is there a gasket on the vent that seals to the gasket on the cowel/firewall?

[Gary W]

On the '37's there is a gasket that surrounds the cowl vent on the cowl.  I got it from Steele Rubber and it fits nice.

 

after checking the fit, I applied a very very thin bead of gasket adhesive.  See the thin yellow squiggly line 

 

 

 

Being sure it gets properly seated all around the opening

 

 

 

Next, I sat the cowl vent down over the gasket, checked all my gaps were consistent all around, and placed a couple books on there for weight.

This allowed the gasket to compress and seat nice and even and allow everything to set up.

 

After 24 hours, I got inside and attached the cowl arms and mechanisms .

 

Gary

[Buick35]

My 35 Buicks cowl vent opens from the back,I guess to prevent rain from getting in? I wish it would open like yours,it would probably cool better.Greg

[Matt Harwood]

19 minutes ago, Buick35 said:

My 35 Buicks cowl vent opens from the back,I guess to prevent rain from getting in? I wish it would open like yours,it would probably cool better.Greg

 

 

The base of the windshield is actually a high-pressure area and the cowl vent probably works as well as a forward-facing vent and maybe with less rainwater getting forced in. Remember cowl-induction? It always faced backwards like that.

[auburnseeker]

I'm sure it's probably not the same problem,  but on my 51 Dodge , the cowl vent flopped around as well.  I got under the dash to inspect it and found that when they put the vent back in when it was "restored", the only thing it is attached to is the handle which has a pivot on it,  but there are also suppose to be two loops that are bolted to the lid that pivot on a rod.  The rod is there and the studs are sticking out of the vent lid but the loops are missing.   Sounds dumb but I would make sure all of the hardware is in place when you under there.  I'm not familiar with Buick's setup but maybe you'll get lucky and find something similar. 

[Marty Roth]

1 hour ago, Buick35 said:

My 35 Buicks cowl vent opens from the back,I guess to prevent rain from getting in? I wish it would open like yours,it would probably cool better.Greg

 

When we had our '34, we found that the backward-opening cowl vent was very effective drawing in fresh air !

[Turbosl2]

2 hours ago, Gary W said:

On the '37's there is a gasket that surrounds the cowl vent on the cowl.  I got it from Steele Rubber and it fits nice.

 

after checking the fit, I applied a very very thin bead of gasket adhesive.  See the thin yellow squiggly line 

 

 

 

Being sure it gets properly seated all around the opening

 

 

 

Next, I sat the cowl vent down over the gasket, checked all my gaps were consistent all around, and placed a couple books on there for weight.

This allowed the gasket to compress and seat nice and even and allow everything to set up.

 

After 24 hours, I got inside and attached the cowl arms and mechanisms .

 

Gary

thanks GARY. This helps. I just did some research on mine and it appears the pin Under the dash is missing on one side of the vent. Also the little pinch rail where the gasket meets is bent in one corner. So between both of these I assume this is why it leaks. When closed it down not lineup or pull down tight on the gasket.

[auburnseeker]

They need that "hinge" to be all in place so they "lock" shut. When you get all the pieces in place you will see it takes a little force right at the end to lock against the seal. 

[Bill - 29 Buick]

I solved my problem on my 37 Cord, at least temporarily, by using a piece of magnetic sign material in the same colour as the car.  When it starts to rain I cover the vent with the sign material and no water comes in.  But, the drawback is that no fresh air comes in so it gets hot.

 

Bill McLaughlin

1929 McLaughlin Buick Roadster

[HarryLime]

Not specific to your make and year, but many cowl vents used a coil spring to snap the lid shut. Perhaps your is missing that element. 

[JFranklin]

On 4/29/2020 at 5:35 PM, Turbosl2 said:

Since we are quarantine I have spent many weeks restoring my 1941 Buick 40 series, the only thing left to seal all the leaks is the cowel vent. I replaced the drain, New seal, drain was previously clogged, but the cowel still dumps water all over the front floor and under the dash. What’s the trick on these? I can pickup the cowel and move it around like it’s not attached solid. The arm under the dash moves it up and down fine but it’s like it flops around in the cutout. What am I missing to keep this leakproof? Is there a gasket on the vent that seals to the gasket on the cowel/firewall?

Whether or not it has a gasket or fits tight it shouldn't allow water to get into the cab. the gutter should drain to the outside of the vehicle usually to the cowl area. 

[Turbosl2]

All fixed. Replacing the 4 bolts that hold the vent to the brackets did the trick. Pull the lever back hard and it locks down hard and no leaks! Thanks guys