Opening the split rim

[Todd B 1928]

I am new to the site into the Dodge car world. I have several pilot house era trucks but this all new. I am trying to get the tire off the rim. And I cannot figure out how to get the pin out to split the room. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you Todd B

The car is a 1928 four-door sedan in amazing shape with a believe 44,000 original miles.

[jari12]

Hope this helps.

[TonyAus]

Failing a rim tool, the rim may be parted by using a heavy screwdriver under the locking tab.  The tab is at the split - lever up under the pointed bit.  After the rim ends overlap, remove the tyre with a suitable pair of irons.  A very useful tool is a comprehensive dictionary of profanities.

[Guest]

TonyAus I believe he has a different make of wheel.  Your instructions work well on Jaxon and several other types.

They almost look like a door hinge with a hole on either side and one in the center. With a pin in the middle connecting them.

Edited April 16, 2020 by Guest (see edit history)

[Ron Lawson]

The 2249 senior has that type of lock like a hinge I use a Hercules Rim tool Worked fine for me Just make sure the tire is deflated  

[TonyAus]

16 hours ago, Tinindian said:

TonyAus I believe he has a different make of wheel.  Your instructions work well on Jaxon and several other types.

They almost look like a door hinge with a hole on either side and one in the center. With a pin in the middle connecting them.

No.  I've assumed that he has Kelsey No 210 rims which have flat locking plate.

[Guest]

11 hours ago, Ron Lawson said:

The 2249 senior has that type of lock like a hinge I use a Hercules Rim tool Worked fine for me Just make sure the tire is deflated 

Obviously one only needs to collapse the rim enough to be able to use tire irons to remove the tire and tube.  I bet the same idea would work with Jaxon rims rather than collapsing them so much that they kink.   Learn something every day.

[nearchoclatetown]

I don't think Dodge Brothers ever used Jaxon rims.

[Ron Lawson]

My Senior has Kelsey rims

[Todd B 1928]

This is the spare wheel I have. The previous owner took the tire off. What kind of rim would this be considered??

[TonyAus]

Not sure about the maker - my list only goes up to 1926.  However, the technique would be to knock out the pin (if remaining) and lever the male part up with a large screwdriver so the rim ends overlap to the left in the above photo.  Note at this is flat rim rather than a well base.  It needs to be shrunk so the rigid wire in the tyre bead  can get over the rim.  With a modern well base rim the bead is forced down towards the wheel centre to achieve the same result.

[Ron Lawson]

That is a Kelsey rim I have on loan from a friend an original Kelsey rim spreader It fits into the 4 holes that are each side of the split My computer knowledge will not enable me to send a picture of this spreader I believe that they are quite rare 

[TonyAus]

4 hours ago, Ron Lawson said:

That is a Kelsey rim I have on loan from a friend an original Kelsey rim spreader It fits into the 4 holes that are each side of the split My computer knowledge will not enable me to send a picture of this spreader I believe that they are quite rare 

Hi Ron

I've been looking for one of these for years.  Attached is a scan from Studebaker Big Six handbook showing one as part of the supplied toolkit (just above crankhandle).  Is the spreader you have the same or similar?

[Ron Lawson]

It is the same as the one in the illistration yes

 

[gundog99]

I have just used my rim splitter,  you need to be careful it don't slip of the rim and trap your fingers when fitting the inner tube , The Kelsey looks a much better tool .

[George Rohrbach]

19 hours ago, TonyAus said:

Hi Ron

I've been looking for one of these for years.  Attached is a scan from Studebaker Big Six handbook showing one as part of the supplied toolkit (just above crankhandle).  Is the spreader you have the same or similar?

I have been looking for one of those for years too! I have never seen one, only the book.

If you find two - please keep me in mind!

George Rohrbach

Edited April 18, 2020 by George Rohrbach (see edit history)

[TonyAus]

More pictures from the Studebaker handbook showing modus operandi of the tool

[Ron Lawson]

I plan on reproducing one of these for myself I have only just tracked down a supplier of spring steel round rod but because of the situation with the virus it is a put on hold project

[TonyAus]

I had a similar idea but using flat steel about 3/4" x 1/4" for the sides and 1/2" steel rod for the ends.   A screwed rod through hole on the centres of the sides would carry the wing nut and the round bits that fit into the rim  could be made from hardened silver steel (or high tensile) screwed onto the sides (if this makes sense).  I saw one made this way many years ago but it subsequently vanished before I could claim it.  Ron, if you have time I'd like some dimensions, particularly of the clip on the longer handle.

[Ron Lawson]

I will dig it out of safe keeping ( the owner will de-nacker me if it goes missing  I will send you a PM 

[TonyAus]

I've manage to Google up these images.  All I need now is the overall length of each of the sides (long and short) and the  vertical distance between the pivot point (with the wing nut) and the reduced section which fits into the rim.

[Ron Lawson]

Hi Tony The overall length of the long arm from the top of the handle to the center of the pins that fit in the rim is 12 inches The short one is 9 1/2  inches The long handle is 4 inches wide  at the top and the short one is 5 inches  The long one is 3 inches from the center of the pivot bolt to the center of the rim pins The short one is 2 inches  The catch is 2 inches long The bolt is a 7/16 coach bolt with no square under the head 8 inches long there is a metal bush that fits on the bolt to protect the threads  This bush is 1 1/2 inches long The thread on the pivot bolt is 3 inches long

[TonyAus]

Thanks Ron

Please disregard some of the email I sent you earlier - I should have read this post first! 

 

Tony 

Edited April 22, 2020 by TonyAus (see edit history)

[TonyAus]

After a bit of head scratching and some cut and try I've manage to come up with a working solution.  This tool is clearly the answer to all my fears.  It gives a full three inch overlap with little effort and holds the rim firmly in the shrunk position.  Removing the tyre and tube should be easy.  All I need now (like a hole in the head) is a flat!

The sides are made out of 25x4mm (1"x1/4") black (hot rolled) steel and the locating pins from salvaged high tensile cylinder head bolts.  If there's any interest I can post a  sketch with full dimensions to save the couple of days it took me to figure them out.

 

 

 

[Ron Lawson]

Looks good cobber Just the dux nuts

 

[RichBad]

That looks awesome!  Would be great if you could add some drawings as that looks far easier than using a conventional rim tool!

[TonyAus]

A sketch  with dimensions is attached.  I've stuck to imperial measurements in deference to US viewers and the fact that the original was made to these standards.  Please use the sketch with reference to the following notes:

 

The tool was made with reference to a four inch wide Kelsey rim.  This is reflected in the four inch crossbar used on the longer arms. If you have wider rims, make the longer crossbar equal to the distance between the edges of the rim and the shorter one 1/2" less.

 

The 1"x1/4" I used for the arms does make the tool relatively heavy but it is very strong, particularly where the hole for the cross bolt is drilled.  You could go down to 3/4" wide if you have the material of that size at hand but probably no less.  I'd stick to at least 1/4" thick.

 

The crossbars could go down to 1/2" if you have the material - I used what I had.

 

For durability I feel the the pins which engage the 5/16" holes in the rim should be made from something tougher than mild steel.  I used ad a discarded 12mm cylinder head bolt.  Any 1/2" high tensile bolt (say over grade 5) of suitable length to provide sufficient material for this purpose.

 

I used 5/16" UNF bolts and threads because that's what I had on hand. UNC or Whitworth would be ok.  Note that the thread on the pins is undercut so they fit  flush with the sides of the arms.  Otherwise the overall effective length of the pins will be wrong.  To overcome the fact that a die will not cut right up to a shoulder a thin parting-type tool should be used for the undercut - probably no more that .040" wide.  An alternative is to remove the first two threads on the hole with a 5/16" drill.

 

Also with regard to the pins, the sections to be threaded should be turned down to .305", not the notional .3125 " .  The reason for this will be clear if you measure a commercial  5/16 bolt.  Finally, the tapping size for 5/16" UNF is a letter I drill.

 

Have fun.  

 

 

[RichBad]

That’s fantastic - many thanks Tony!

[trini]

Hi Ron. I just came back ,7th. July, after a lock down for the last 2 months of my Holiday in Trinidad and Tobago.

 

My rims on the 28 DB is a Kelsey and I suppose the clinchers may be ,too The clinchers have the holes on the sides but I did not know what they were for. The clinchers are locked together with a 1/4 pin. I have 2 of those crank style rim compressor in reasonable shape that I have not used  them yet. They do not look too friendly.