gundog99

Thank you for you helpful response; my Senior is an early RD model with the smaller intake Manifold. I have set the OX to Stan's recommended settings ,but the 3/4 to 1 gives me some more tuning options.

My 2249 Dodge Senior is fitted with a Stan Howe restored OX-2. The High Speed mixture adjustment is 2 1/2 full turns from stop, what I am not sure about is the Idle mixture adjustment: Stan Howe recommends 3/4 turn from stop but I have read that I should consider one or two full turns.

Thank you, I have ordered some new ones from Myers in the USA,

Is it possible to buy new Stewart vacuum tank springs in Australia?

I should have added "...the fuel will suddenly starts to flow agin." The engine is switched off.

After cleaning out a large amount of sludge from the block and fitting Ron's superbly made side plate ,four years of over heating problems for the main part have been sorted out. Yesterday I used the car on a 20 mile jolly to the coast, in hot (for the uk) 33c heat.It cut out in a traffic jam and after driving slowly on the way home. The problem starts when the fuel stops flowing through the glass filler to the carburettor; I lift the bonnet to let the engine cool down a bit after four or five minutes the fuel will suddenly starts to flow agin. I wonder if this is a problem with the Stuart Vacuum tank vacuum / vent sticking when hot ?

These are for a Ford A or T left hand Spring (1) on the picture.

Is it possible to buy right hand Bendix Spring clips (11)?

Thanks to Ron I am able to replace the broken Bendix Spring and the two damaged spring bolts.I bought a pair of Ford model A Bendix spring clips(1) not releasing the are only for a left hand spring. Is it possible to buy right hand Spring clips (11)?

I was thinking of using Loctite 243 and Flexoid gasket paper (oil and fuel resistant)

I will Loctite all the brass fittings to make sure they are air tight on my Stewart Vacuum tank ; I also want to replace the Gasket between the top and the body of the tank. What thickness should this gasket be (mm)?"

Thank you very much,Let me know the cost of postage . PayPal?

Than you Ron. This has now become a bigger job. I will need to replace the two Clips, Lock Washers and both the bolts ( Screw Shaft Spring and Screw Head Spring ) as they are both cracked.

Thank you for posting the Bendix parts page,I have a spare Plymouth engine with a starter motor ,I will see if I can use some of the parts from it.

My Dodge senior starter motor( SBH type 6400) Bendix Spring has just broken. is a new Ford model T, A or b spring a possible option?

I have fitted all halogen bulbs in my 2249 Senior instead of tungstens, they use much less wattage and are brighter than the original, but i except LED would be much better. http://www.classicandvintagebulbs.com/

A great idea, I looked into fitting LED, but at the moment they are illegal in the UK unless they are specified for the vehicle light fittings.

I am so sorry you are having such bad luck, but thank goodness none of you are seriously injured.

Looking at the underside pictures of the Victory Six showing the steering rod, has remind me to post the photographs of an original Chrysler mopar steering rod Gaiter of unknown date. I have stupidly lost the box it came in. I suspect this is the most neglected part of a vintage car in terms if restoration and maintenance.This is not helped by the unavailability of new bolt (ball) part 174 and more critically the case harden cups.I was lucky enough to by a set of secondhand cups, still case hardened, to replace the ones in the photograph, one of the original cups was 1 mm oversize or 39.37 thousands The two linkages on the rod are possibly the most exposed to road dirt and water on the car. I made two garters about ten years age, for one of my great grandmother kid skin gloves; these were based on the Chrysler design, but doubling the height from 16mm to 30mm and tapering the top to a near fit; the steel casing part I made from brass .Last year I took one of the off to find out how effective it was, the grease was completely free of dirt.

In the UK Esso and BP still sell non ethanol fuel, I switched to a premium fuel earlier in the year. it is probable not a good idea to mix ethanal fuel with non ethanal. https://ttypes.org/modern-fuel-on-trial/ I can recommend this book, : Classic Engines, Modern Fuel by Paul Ireland

I have had the same problem for about three years now and have tried a number of ideas with limited success. a possible problem with modern fuel is slow ignition, resulting in some of the petrol burning in the manifold,this cause overheating, by setting the advance a few degrees more than the manual setting does help. I am tuning my Senior at the moment and have spent some time making sure the points and spark plugs are in good condition with accent gape setting .Today I will check everything with my digital timing kit. Have a read of Matt's "Restoration of Victory Six sports roadster"? There is a very useful bit about converting his victory six manifold and a senior manifold. Matt has fitted electronic ignition in his car ,I will be doing the same soon. Update. I took my time and was very careful to get the settings absolutely right (adding 2 degrees of advance) I still need to check all by setting digitally. i took the Dodge for a 10 mile run, driving fairly hard to get the engine nice and hot, no sputtering and ran very smoothly; it remains to be seen if it cuts out when idling in traffic. Perhaps using moden speck petrol means we now need to regularly check our cars are in tune.

Thank you for your offer to help, I know I must take it off soon but not until I have built a replacement. Sometime ago i was been given a large sheet of copper more than enough for the outer jacket ,luckily I have a spare water jacket to make a copy from. Do you have any more photographs showing the construction of the outer jacket.

I took the water pump off to check the bronze impeller and everything is as it should be. I asked Matt how much extra advance he had added, I therefore increase my setup by adding 4 deg; this appears to have cured the overheating problem, however the engine sounds a bit harsher but seems to be a bit more powerful . May has been very cold, I will only know for certain when running the car in hot (for the UK) weather, if I have finally sorted out the problem. I did reverse flush the cooling system a few times before fitting a new thermostat, but am now removing the lower hose before refilling with fresh water

I used Fernox Cleaner F3 used in central heating systems in the UK, then Thermocure; I think it is much the same as Evapo Rust rust, remover possibly a refined molasses liquid. I have a major problem flushing the system out, very hard mains water. I am still flushing out rust as brown water and flacks of iron by running the car filled with distilled water which I drain when hot and refill at regular intervals. Ron has confirmed my suspicion that a lot of gunk still remains in the base of the water chamber.

My Senior was fitted allround with 3,5mm toughened glass but I wish a sliding window had been made for the drivers side.