64 First gen floor prep pre-carpet

[Wedgewood64]

OK, so, I had the bright idea of redoing the carpet while I had the seats out for upholstery. Idea being to put in sound + heat insulation. For the latter, I decided to go with the Noico products on amazon. 

Now, I don't want to go overboard. Just clean it up, I guess wire-wheel the surface rust, then some sort of primer, then the Noico. What should I do with the floorboard plugs, the ones covered over with that factory gunk? Just Noico over that? or scrape off the gunk? If scrape, does it need some new sealer?

Finally, since I'm here, there's a dime-sized hole in the floor near the gas pedal. While I was pulling out the carpet I did find a plug (interior color: blue) that looks like it could go in there. But maybe not. what's the hole for?

Many thanks--

[60FlatTop]

That's the kind of hole that makes your ears ring for a couple of days.

 

It was dark and the gun was between the seats.

[jsgun]

I went wire wheel, swept it out (vacuum would have been better), then wiped it down with lacquer thinner. I then hit it with spray butyl undercoating to seal it from the air, then "protecto-wrap" for a thermal barrier (i'd skip it if I did it again) then noico. Going with a mold and flame resistant denim based insulation (about a inch thick) then carpet.

 

I didn't have that hole on my 64. I scraped out the sealer around the drain plugs, but mine was partially loose. So I pulled it up and resealed it. Noico is good to work with, just keep some lacquer thinner handy to get the rubber off the knife and roller. You'll want to get a small roller if you don't have one. Makes it so much easier.

 

I wouldn't use a primer, it holds moisture. I'd look for something to seal the metal from air. Line of thought is that would slow or hopefully prevent any rust.

Edited November 21, 2019 by jsgun (see edit history)

[telriv]

After some cleaning I use Miracle paint from Bill Hirsh.  It works to cover the rust & seal it. I use this  because it's so much lighter in weight.

Using one inch thick padding is going to cause you much grief in getting the carpet to sit/lay down properly.

[KongaMan]

I went wire wheel, ShopVac, paint prep (lacquer thinner?), paint (POR-15?), fake Dynamat, mylar-backed bubble insulation, carpet.  The result is thin and quiet.

 

It would be much faster to use a small blaster for the stripping step, but you'd have to spend a *lot* of time sealing off the areas that you don't want media to get into.

[RivNut]

Eastwood has a couple of rust preventative products.  One is an encapsulator  the other is a converter. Both good products.

[Wedgewood64]

Thanks for all these pointers. Very helpful. I'm headed out to the garage now...

nick

[jsgun]

On 11/21/2019 at 6:29 AM, telriv said:

After some cleaning I use Miracle paint from Bill Hirsh.  It works to cover the rust & seal it. I use this  because it's so much lighter in weight.

Using one inch thick padding is going to cause you much grief in getting the carpet to sit/lay down properly.

 

 

The thickness is definitely a concern. I thought i'd try it, see what happens. The old carpet was from a impala I believe, and had 1" thick jute under it. It seemed to do ok thickness wise. The denim seems to work well for the firewall insulation. 

 

Edit: I measured the denim insulation, it's only 1/2" thick with mylar on one side.

Edited November 24, 2019 by jsgun (see edit history)

[Wedgewood64]

I am concerned about too much thickness, esp. around the tunnel. Won't overdo it.

 

BTW, the hole plug I found was actually black, and matches the hole that in my car is at the top of the tunnel roughly where the rear lighter is.

[1965rivgs]

The hole in the floor near the rear of the console was used by Buick to align the body on the frame at "body drop".

Tom Mooney

[EmTee]

On 11/23/2019 at 9:07 AM, 1965rivgs said:

...to align the body on the frame at "body drop"

 

I don't like the sound of that... 

[Wedgewood64]

Update: can't believe it's been 5 months... Getting the Noico on, but also lubing the rear quarter windows, replacing the fuzzies. Ugh. Good thing I didn't know what a bear it would be. I'm still going to add a layer of the foam Noico (sound+heat; I think they call it "red", tho it's not) anywhere I don't think the extra thickness will matter. Then the carpet. I have the Clark's cut and sewn, looks really good. I tried the molded from ACC, but was disappointed by the cut especially--looked hacked at; also didn't have the vinyl edge at the top of the front pieces. Cost me a fortune to return, between shipping and restocking...

Anyway, the Clark's looks straightforward, though on the rear piece they put the backing material where it may interfere (thickness) with the console (it's not there on the original); also; the backing is way too close to the edges that tuck under the door sill. So a little tailoring necessary, at least on the backing material.

One question: there's a thread here somewhere where one of you mounted the seat brackets over/through the carpet (rear portion). Now, the Clark's does not come with the cut outs to go around the rear of the seat mount. So either I make the cuts to match the original, or I mount the bracket through the carpet. I can't really see what difference it would make in terms of function, tho I assume the mount base itself will be more visible if I don't do the cuts. Any advice?

[XframeFX]

Good choice on Clark's for carpet Nick, ACC was my 2nd shot at ordering carpet as the 1st source sent a set of cheap material, no binding or even a heel pad and the colour was off! I wasn't too happy with ACC either but far better than the 1st set!

As for cut-outs, minimize cuts at the front U-brackets. The short span of carpet to the U-bracket from the sill plates covers the outboard bolt. The same for the carpet from the console covering the inboard bolt. Between the U-brackets, whatever you can manage as it is out-of-sight.

I have my front mounts directly on the floor pan and the rear mounts on the carpet.

 

Your work looks good. Keep going!

 

A warning for when you get to the console. I see you removed those tri-angular brackets below the dashboard. I made the mistake of doing the same without marking their positions before removal. Regardless of those brackets. you'll find yourself fitting the console over and over and over again! Patience is required for the console. It will hold up the installation of both front carpet pieces.

 

Good Luck!

John B.

[Wedgewood64]

Well, it's finished. I'm putting a photo of the Noico "Red" below. Gave it a nice snug feel. I had no problem with it interfering with the console, which surprisingly  didn't really hassle me. (I'd done that once before, maybe 20 years ago.) I just regretted not having ordered the Mr G's trim screw kit before I started... And the LED bulbs....

 

I decided to fit the carpet around the rear mounting flanges of the seats--they weren't that great looking, plus that's how it was designed. I did no cuts on the front carpet pieces (except a little at the sills). On the back, I did preliminary cuts by positioning the seat rails w/o the seats, then I had to shave away a little more on the outboard sides once the seats were in. (Cutting the inboard correctly would be difficult once the seat is fully in.)

 

Overall, the Clark's fit really well, except maybe the driver's side front, where it seems to me that their cut+ seam isn't in the right place: for me, it is directly behind the accelerator pedal, which is still flat floor, whereas it should be more to the right, where the tunnel starts. I didn't see how to jiggle it around any, especially b/c the sewn in rubber insert had to fit just so with the pedal. Anyway, the result is that there's a little bunching in the pedal area. Not visible, but if I were more OCD, it would bother me. I suppose one could go in and try to resew another seam. Don't know if anyone had this experience, but as I said, I really can't see how to make their seam lie just where the tunnel starts.

 

Anyway, the car seems fairly quiet now, though now I'm noticing how much the doors rattle. next project.

 

I do kind of miss the funky "old car" smell. Turned out it was just the rotten carpets...

[rodneybeauchamp]

 

“ Anyway, the car seems fairly quiet now, though now I'm noticing how much the doors rattle. next project.

 

I do kind of miss the funky "old car" smell. Turned out it was just the rotten carpets...”
 

I would put some of your old carpet in the console bin and keep adding tepid water to it. It will help keep that musty old car wet carpet smell very much alive! 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Rodney