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Wedgewood64

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Everything posted by Wedgewood64

  1. An update from Rattletown. The first thing I tried was rerouting the lines away from one another, insulating each with insulated clamps. See photo. One thing that I was able to ascertain by doing this was that the rattle was clearly, 100% coming from the intake line (the larger one), not the return line. The other was that.... it didn't stop the rattle. It reduced it considerably. But the hammering was still working its way through the rubber to the bolts holding the clamps, and it was easily detectible. The second thing I tried was a new fuel pump and filter. No dice. Even
  2. I got a new switch in there, everything's functioning well. I wasn't able to find a how-to on wiring the suggested relay, so left that out. If anyone can point me the way to something explanatory (I have no real knowledge of electrics besides positive, and negative), I'd give it a try. The plug was a bit melted back there, though the wires themselves looked fine. BTW, Is it normal that the key can be removed in any position except ACC?
  3. Ah, ok, there are two things then. I found some pages here on the fusible links; but for the auxiliary relay, I haven't come up with the thread. I think it's safe to say I'm not an ace with the electrics so I'd need to be walked through it. What I did find, though, did remind me that I HAVE felt the heat from the ignition switch before, Ed. Maybe not too recently, and not the key, so at first, I didn't really get it. This lack of a relay is why there's the handy feature of the power windows working whether or not the ignition is on...? I like that feature; but I'm beginning to see the pro
  4. No (hot key). For the relay, I'll look it up. I was referring to the bit Tom Telesco published in the Riview in 2001 about a fire safety retrofit. I'm just wondering if this is the same fix under a slightly different name. Thanks all!
  5. Got it. By the relay, you're referring to the "fusible link" modification that has often been discussed? I've been meaning to do that...
  6. OK, makes sense. Simply replace switch, then? Jon (above) recommends testing. But if the problem comes and goes...?
  7. I think my only vacuum/pressure gauge is designed for air (?). So far, with light use, all is well. My diagnosis was based on the circumstances and the fact that the engine was catching, and there was plenty of fuel in the bowls and coming through the throttle pump... So I reasoned that the catching eliminated something like a broken wire in the distributor (have had those before, but not in the Riv), and the ample fuel eliminated a pump problem. I may have just gotten lucky. There was nothing visible in the carb, btw.
  8. Well, having used all my Berryman's on the tear-down, I went out with my can of starter stuff. Disconnected the battery charger. Waiting for my wife to get home to do the operation, well... it fired up fine. I'm a little mystified, when I tried it 3 hrs before, the symptoms seemed exactly those during the fail. The many mysteries of internal combustion. Thanks for the pointers, I apologize for the bother.
  9. This is probably obvious to a lot of you, but I could use a trouble-shoot. Replaced fuel filter. Drove 4 miles to Costco, filled up, parked, shopped. Leave Costco parking lot, cruise down road about 100ft... stall while moving. Drift to side. Restart; ignition catches, will even run for some seconds if I feather the pedal; but seems starved for fuel. Soon all that happens when cranking is that ignition catches immediately, immediately stalls. I verify fuel's pumping through the accelerator pump nozzles; put on old filter for good measure. No dice. Tow. (1st, I think, in 25 years of
  10. @ Ed, I was kind of wondering that myself; it has been a few years. It may help. I will try it. It's true that the problem does come and go. It's particularly annoying right now--now that I put new sound insulation in the whole interior... I would tend to think that if the lines were truly insulated with rubber, then the transmission of the hammering into the chassis wouldn't occur. The problem seems to me, though, that I'd essentially have to fit new clamps, b/c the stock ones leave no space for rubber insulation. Like gungeey, inspecting my lines, I'd say that there's no movement of the
  11. Well, not so simple for me, I don't know why. I tried getting the hose as close to the clamp as possible. No dice. Then I started putting in little wedges of cork here and there, just to make sure no vibrations were possible. (photo 1) No better. then I decided to try to put the hose over the line where it clamps--so clamping the hose and line together. To do that, b/c the clamp isn't big enough, I needed to leave out the feed line--so have only return line clamped. (photo 2) Left it like that as an experiment; but though it's a little better, it's still hammering away. When I go over to the l
  12. Returning to an old thread. When I had the tank out a while back I tried Jim Cannon's trick. While it improved the "rattle," it didn't make it go away entirely. Here are some photos: in one, you can see the whole length--must be at least 6" of line. What did I do wrong?
  13. well, here's my improvisation. I just snaps in. Won't fool anyone who knows, but I don't know anyone who knows. Note the difference between the Clark's dark blue and the originally upholstered seat back.
  14. I ended up going for a more off-road style. I couldn't see the 3-point harness in the light blue. I mounted the rear strap to metal under the package tray. Relatively straightforward. Will last the boy a few years until he won't tolerate the back seat...
  15. They did the job and I must say they stop very well. Haven't had to try a panic stop yet, but brakes felt strong from the first time out. Pads themselves ended up $126, arcing was $95. One thing that was clear on taking the old ones out was that for some reason my back brakes were doing most of the work, which explains as well why they would lock up but the front never did. I'm not sure why the front ones weren't doing their job. Anyway--I'm now a convert to arcing.
  16. I'd think the panic stop might take care of matters in a different way, i.e., by getting rid of car and driver. Anyway, all this arcing biz had me googling around. I did find a place in San Jose CA (formerly B&A Friction [like that name], but now bought by FleetPride; basically a truck place), they will both put on new pads, turn drums, and arc. But they wouldn't, for example, arc pads with asbestos in them. There's a closer mustang place with supposedly good brake work, I wasn't able to get through but will try. In google, also saw videos of people using arcing mac
  17. Huh, when I had regular Bendix in the car it wouldn't stop well, and I've read similar things here. Then Russ @ Centerville put in some relined shoes--not sure of the lining--and since then it has stopped I'd say pretty well (rear brakes tend to lock up). Anyway.
  18. Thanks Craig and Ed. I'm still curious, though. Let's say we view the health risk as minimal. There are still some practical and technical things I don't understand. Practically: there are really enough NOS pads out there to keep running everyone's drums into the future? I'm glad to have Craig as a source; but I don't know, looking around I can't see lots of other sellers. And why would people go to the trouble and expense of having their old drums relined if it commits them to using a dwindling stock of pads? Technically, I guess I don't understand what makes the new, harder pads
  19. just changed my carpets, and I do miss the smell that everyone who climbed aboard appreciated. That said, it was just an old car smell, nothing foul.
  20. It's about time to replace the brake shoes. I've seen relatively little on good options in the forum. Some recommendations about finding NOS asbestos. I'm sure that would provide the best stop; still, I admit I'd like to keep asbestos out of the garage if possible. I'm having a hard time imagining that everyone out there (who hasn't converted to disk) (and who likes to stop) is running NOS asbestos. Is there no second best?
  21. Yes @ ed; I mean that's what's on my plate, 5W.
  22. yes, the cover, that's what I meant by plate. Both the belts were missing it for some reason. I emailed Ssnake oyl once to see if they happened to have the correct buckle, they never replied. I went with one of the ones Wesco sells. Not so important to me. Especially now that I know that the car was supposed to have retractables!
  23. Well, it's finished. I'm putting a photo of the Noico "Red" below. Gave it a nice snug feel. I had no problem with it interfering with the console, which surprisingly didn't really hassle me. (I'd done that once before, maybe 20 years ago.) I just regretted not having ordered the Mr G's trim screw kit before I started... And the LED bulbs.... I decided to fit the carpet around the rear mounting flanges of the seats--they weren't that great looking, plus that's how it was designed. I did no cuts on the front carpet pieces (except a little at the sills). On the back, I did prelimina
  24. Just checked my plate: interestingly, the car had the retractable belt option, but since I've had it, it's always been the regular belts, in the light blue. I replaced those b/c the buckle (which was missing the correct plate) failed. I think the light blue would look horrible with the 4-point. I'm not sure, I could swap out all the belts in navy (but navy is... out of stock), or just order 2xlap belts for back, and then a black 4-point to secure my boy for the next 5 years... after that, I imagine he'll refuse to sit in the back...
  25. Sounds right, Ed. I'd looked at that support, then thought it might be a bit flimsy. But on second thought, looks like the best option. My car is light blue with dark blue interior. The (original) belts are light blue. Was that simply an owner choice? Would some people have chosen navy?
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