Mass9192 Posted April 14, 2019 Share Posted April 14, 2019 Rivi friends, needs some help or info. Has anyone put a wilwood disc brake conversion on a 63 Rivi? If so I need to know a good replacement power brake booster to go with it just don’t know where to start looking. Just ordered the disc brake kit. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockinRiviDad Posted April 14, 2019 Share Posted April 14, 2019 (edited) Here’s where I got my booster. I can’t remember which booster I ended up with. My gut feeling has me wanting to guess I bought a 67 Riv booster??? I am sure I guessed wrong. I’d have to dig up receipts to be sure. 3500 miles later & no problems. Anyway, talk to these guys. They’ll point in the right direction. Nice guys too. http://boosterdeweyexchange.com/ EDIT: oops…I answered too quick. There is a good thread on this topic going on right now… Edited April 14, 2019 by RockinRiviDad (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelman Posted April 14, 2019 Share Posted April 14, 2019 Performanceonline.com has a kit for the 63 Riviera. Booster and dual master. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mass9192 Posted April 14, 2019 Author Share Posted April 14, 2019 5 hours ago, RockinRiviDad said: Here’s where I got my booster. I can’t remember which booster I ended up with. My gut feeling has me wanting to guess I bought a 67 Riv booster??? I am sure I guessed wrong. I’d have to dig up receipts to be sure. 3500 miles later & no problems. Anyway, talk to these guys. They’ll point in the right direction. Nice guys too. http://boosterdeweyexchange.com/ Sweet! I’ll give them a call. Do you or did you have the original wheels with the wilwood disc kit on? I would like to keep my originals on there but been hearing that they rub with this kit or did you upgrade wheels? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mass9192 Posted April 14, 2019 Author Share Posted April 14, 2019 2 hours ago, steelman said: Performanceonline.com has a kit for the 63 Riviera. Booster and dual master. Ya I did see that but wanted to know what’s the best setup with the wilwood kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockinRiviDad Posted April 14, 2019 Share Posted April 14, 2019 I bought aftermarket wheels. I think the rotors on all disc brake kits will cause your wheels to sit further out towards the fenders. I have read that certain stock Rivi wheels have a center ring that will NOT allow the wheel to fit over the rotor. Then I’ve read some guys had issues with calipers rubbing. So…yeah…not trying to rain on your parade…just thought I’d share what I’ve read…good luck… 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mass9192 Posted April 15, 2019 Author Share Posted April 15, 2019 3 hours ago, RockinRiviDad said: I bought aftermarket wheels. I think the rotors on all disc brake kits will cause your wheels to sit further out towards the fenders. I have read that certain stock Rivi wheels have a center ring that will NOT allow the wheel to fit over the rotor. Then I’ve read some guys had issues with calipers rubbing. So…yeah…not trying to rain on your parade…just thought I’d share what I’ve read…good luck… Thanks for the info. That’s what I figured but just wanted to confirm. I appreciate the tips thanks again. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DualQuadDave Posted April 15, 2019 Share Posted April 15, 2019 (edited) I have installed one Wilwood kit on a Riv and will never use them again. I have installed Wilwood on a bunch of other cars, Vette's, Mustang's, etc. Hate them. Lots of bling and not much performance. Their tech support is highly lacking also. If you want killer brakes that work, go with the Scarebird kit w/ rebuilt stock GM Caddy calipers. Best kit going, by far. Edited April 15, 2019 by DualQuadDave (see edit history) 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixxer Posted April 15, 2019 Share Posted April 15, 2019 He’s right, disk brakes pushed my track width out 1/4” total (1/8” each side). I already had them on before I got my wheels so I could check the specs before hand. I’m running 20” by 8.5” with air ride. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted April 15, 2019 Share Posted April 15, 2019 I went with Scarebird adapters then cannibalized a 76 Riviera for everything from the booster to the pads. The entire system is engineered to work together. Plus all of the parts are available at your local jobber. If you need work done on the road, you're probably only down for a day or less. No telling how long it might take Wilwood to get a part to Wheeling, WV. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mass9192 Posted April 16, 2019 Author Share Posted April 16, 2019 21 hours ago, DualQuadDave said: I have installed one Wilwood kit on a Riv and will never use them again. I have installed Wilwood on a bunch of other cars, Vette's, Mustang's, etc. Hate them. Lots of bling and not much performance. Their tech support is highly lacking also. If you want killer brakes that work, go with the Scarebird kit w/ rebuilt stock GM Caddy calipers. Best kit going, by far. Wow! That’s good to know then. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mass9192 Posted April 16, 2019 Author Share Posted April 16, 2019 19 hours ago, RivNut said: I went with Scarebird adapters then cannibalized a 76 Riviera for everything from the booster to the pads. The entire system is engineered to work together. Plus all of the parts are available at your local jobber. If you need work done on the road, you're probably only down for a day or less. No telling how long it might take Wilwood to get a part to Wheeling, WV. Well looks like I’ll be going with the scarebird kit. When you say you cannibalized everything, even the brake cylinder or did you upgrade that with a different one? Also with this kit were you able to keep original rally wheels or did you upgraded your wheels as well Ed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mass9192 Posted April 16, 2019 Author Share Posted April 16, 2019 19 hours ago, sixxer said: He’s right, disk brakes pushed my track width out 1/4” total (1/8” each side). I already had them on before I got my wheels so I could check the specs before hand. I’m running 20” by 8.5” with air ride. Are your wheels staggered or running both at 20” by 8.5”? I was considering ridler wheels but 20” by 10” in rear and 20”by 8.5” front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixxer Posted April 16, 2019 Share Posted April 16, 2019 8 minutes ago, Mass9192 said: Are your wheels staggered or running both at 20” by 8.5”? I was considering ridler wheels but 20” by 10” in rear and 20”by 8.5” front. Staggered 20”x10.5” in rear 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted April 16, 2019 Share Posted April 16, 2019 17 minutes ago, Mass9192 said: Well looks like I’ll be going with the scarebird kit. When you say you cannibalized everything, even the brake cylinder or did you upgrade that with a different one? Also with this kit were you able to keep original rally wheels or did you upgraded your wheels as well Ed? You can run the 1967 and later code 853 with the disk brakes but not the earlier code 802 rims. The rims from the 1971 - 1978 years, code 895, will also work with disk brakes. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mass9192 Posted April 16, 2019 Author Share Posted April 16, 2019 11 minutes ago, RivNut said: You can run the 1967 and later code 853 with the disk brakes but not the earlier code 802 rims. The rims from the 1971 - 1978 years, code 895, will also work with disk brakes. Where is the code imprinted on the rim to check and see which ones I have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mass9192 Posted April 16, 2019 Author Share Posted April 16, 2019 18 minutes ago, sixxer said: Staggered 20”x10.5” in rear Ok cool! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC1968Riviera Posted April 16, 2019 Share Posted April 16, 2019 28 minutes ago, Mass9192 said: Where is the code imprinted This code is stamped near the wheel size stamp on the inside surface of the wheel (area covered by tire when it is mounted.) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mass9192 Posted April 16, 2019 Author Share Posted April 16, 2019 32 minutes ago, NC68Riviera said: This code is stamped near the wheel size stamp on the inside surface of the wheel (area covered by tire when it is mounted.) Ok thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KongaMan Posted April 16, 2019 Share Posted April 16, 2019 It's cheaper, faster, and you'll have close to the same performance if you restore the original drum system. This ain't a Chevy with 4" drums. Besides, spending a lot of time and money to make a car worth less is a peculiar investment strategy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC1968Riviera Posted April 16, 2019 Share Posted April 16, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, KongaMan said: same performance if you restore the original drum system I had my drum brake system updated with new wheel cylinders, fluid, springs, master cylinder and brake shoes. The drums still had enough lining to be used. My 4400# 68 Riviera stops on a dime! (well, a short row of dimes, that is!) Edited April 16, 2019 by NC68Riviera (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted April 16, 2019 Share Posted April 16, 2019 You can outwardly identify the 895's by the profile. The center, where the cap fits, is sticks out farther than the edge of the rim. Lay a straight edge across the rim and see if the center is higher. You can ID the other two with tires on them by looking at the back. The 853's have a profile what will allow for a disk brake caliper, the 802's don't. I'll post a picture later so you can see the differences. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted April 16, 2019 Share Posted April 16, 2019 21 minutes ago, NC68Riviera said: I had my drum brake system updated with new wheel cylinders, fluid, springs, master cylinder and brake pads. The drums still had enough lining to be used. My 4400# 68 Riviera stops on a dime! (well a short row of dimes, that is!) You think those brakes are good now. Wait until you make 5 panic stops in a row on a 110 degree day.... on a wet road. I am getting ready to do a proper brake job on my '64 Riviera drums. I have considered the multiple panic stop benefits of disc's, but one panic stop kind of slows me down for the rest of the day. At least I have been listening to the promotions. Bernie 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted April 16, 2019 Share Posted April 16, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, RivNut said: You can outwardly identify the 895's by the profile. The center, where the cap fits, is sticks out farther than the edge of the rim. Lay a straight edge across the rim and see if the center is higher. You can ID the other two with tires on them by looking at the back. The 853's have a profile what will allow for a disk brake caliper, the 802's don't. I'll post a picture later so you can see the differences. Here are the pictures. 802 on the top, 853 on the bottom. You can see the differences if you look closely at the webs where they meet the outer face. This particular 802 has grey painted webs. The face of the 802 next to the "spoke" is almost a straight line. The face of the 853 steps down at the bolt hole. on the back side, the 802 goes at an angle to the bolt face, the 853 runs almost perpendicular. Just been told I've reached my limit. I'll try again later. Edited April 16, 2019 by RivNut (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted April 16, 2019 Share Posted April 16, 2019 Resized 802 with angled back side 853 with almost perpendicular back side. You can imagine where the disk brake caliper would set. Also take note. Both of these wheels still have the register ring in place. They will only go on a 65 or later hub. No need to dismount those tires now. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTX-SLPR Posted April 17, 2019 Share Posted April 17, 2019 For what it's worth I put a 96 Impala SS (Same as all 94-96 B-bodies if not longer) master on my stock drums and it made a huge different on the way the car stopped even with the original soft hoses. I also cut the pedal up to change the ratio but that mainly changes the engagement distance. The stock drums grabbed hard, locking up everything if you got too aggressive with it, something even a fully bled stocker would never come close to doing. I do believe the stock drums are up to the task if you get the rest of the system in good shape. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mass9192 Posted April 17, 2019 Author Share Posted April 17, 2019 5 hours ago, RivNut said: Resized 802 with angled back side 853 with almost perpendicular back side. You can imagine where the disk brake caliper would set. Also take note. Both of these wheels still have the register ring in place. They will only go on a 65 or later hub. No need to dismount those tires now. This is my wheel Ed. Looks like I’m out of luck 🤨 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted April 17, 2019 Share Posted April 17, 2019 (edited) You're out of luck in a good way. From what I see, you have a set of 1964 wheels off of a Wildcat. The rally wheels were only available on the Wildcat in '64. Very hard to find especially with the Wildcat caps. You can sell those and buy anything you want (as long as all four look as good as the one shown.) Very nice! As a matter of fact, I'm betting you'll get some offers just based on your posting. If I'm right, and I think I am, your wheels will not have a code number and they will not have register rings. Keep those babies safe. Edited April 17, 2019 by RivNut (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mass9192 Posted April 17, 2019 Author Share Posted April 17, 2019 1 hour ago, RivNut said: You're out of luck in a good way. From what I see, you have a set of 1964 wheels off of a Wildcat. The rally wheels were only available on the Wildcat in '64. Very hard to find especially with the Wildcat caps. You can sell those and buy anything you want (as long as all four look as good as the one shown.) Very nice! As a matter of fact, I'm betting you'll get some offers just based on your posting. If I'm right, and I think I am, your wheels will not have a code number and they will not have register rings. Keep those babies safe. Wow! Thanks for the heads up Ed! All 4 are actually nice. Here are pics of all 4 and what they look like on my 63. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted April 17, 2019 Share Posted April 17, 2019 Those are fantastic. If I were you. I'd be putting those away and waiting for that guy who has a '64 Wildcat to take out a second mortgage. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mass9192 Posted April 17, 2019 Author Share Posted April 17, 2019 I 48 minutes ago, RivNut said: Those are fantastic. If I were you. I'd be putting those away and waiting for that guy who has a '64 Wildcat to take out a second mortgage. I think I will do that ha! Thanks again 👍🏼 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsgun Posted April 17, 2019 Share Posted April 17, 2019 What do they typically go for? I have a set i'd consider selling. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted April 18, 2019 Share Posted April 18, 2019 28 minutes ago, jsgun said: What do they typically go for? I have a set i'd consider selling. The 64 "Wilcat only" wheels with caps? The only way I know of to get a real feel for what they're worth is to put them on eBay with a ridiculously high reserve and see where the bidding goes before it stops. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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