Mass9192

63 riviera wilwood disc brake conversion

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Rivi friends, needs some help or info. Has anyone put a wilwood disc brake conversion on a 63 Rivi? If so I need to know a good replacement power brake booster to go with it just don’t know where to start looking. Just ordered the disc brake kit. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks! 

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Posted (edited)

Here’s where I got my booster. I can’t remember which booster I ended up with. My gut feeling has me wanting to guess I bought a 67 Riv booster??? I am sure I guessed wrong. I’d have to dig up receipts to be sure. 3500 miles later & no problems. 

 

Anyway, talk to these guys. They’ll point in the right direction. Nice guys too.

 

http://boosterdeweyexchange.com/

 

EDIT: 

oops…I answered too quick. There is a good thread on this topic going on right now…

 

 

Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)
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Performanceonline.com has a kit for the 63 Riviera. Booster and dual master.

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5 hours ago, RockinRiviDad said:

Here’s where I got my booster. I can’t remember which booster I ended up with. My gut feeling has me wanting to guess I bought a 67 Riv booster??? I am sure I guessed wrong. I’d have to dig up receipts to be sure. 3500 miles later & no problems. 

 

Anyway, talk to these guys. They’ll point in the right direction. Nice guys too.

 

http://boosterdeweyexchange.com/

Sweet! I’ll give them a call. Do you or did you have the original wheels with the wilwood disc kit on? I would like to keep my originals on there but been hearing that they rub with this kit or did you upgrade wheels? 

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2 hours ago, steelman said:

Performanceonline.com has a kit for the 63 Riviera. Booster and dual master.

Ya I did see that but wanted to know what’s the best setup with the wilwood kit. 

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I bought aftermarket wheels. I think the rotors on all disc brake kits will cause your wheels to sit further out towards the fenders. I have read that certain stock Rivi wheels have a center ring that will NOT allow the wheel to fit over the rotor. Then I’ve read some guys had issues with calipers rubbing. 

 

So…yeah…not trying to rain on your parade…just thought I’d share what I’ve read…good luck…

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3 hours ago, RockinRiviDad said:

I bought aftermarket wheels. I think the rotors on all disc brake kits will cause your wheels to sit further out towards the fenders. I have read that certain stock Rivi wheels have a center ring that will NOT allow the wheel to fit over the rotor. Then I’ve read some guys had issues with calipers rubbing. 

 

So…yeah…not trying to rain on your parade…just thought I’d share what I’ve read…good luck…

Thanks for the info. That’s what I figured but just wanted to confirm. I appreciate the tips thanks again. 

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Posted (edited)

I have installed one Wilwood kit on a Riv and will never use them again. I have installed Wilwood on a bunch of other cars, Vette's, Mustang's, etc. Hate them. Lots of bling and not much performance. Their tech support is highly lacking also. If you want killer brakes that work, go with the Scarebird kit w/ rebuilt stock GM Caddy calipers. Best kit going, by far. 

Edited by DualQuadDave (see edit history)
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He’s right, disk brakes pushed my track width out 1/4” total (1/8” each side). I already had them on before I got my wheels so I could check the specs before hand. I’m running 20” by 8.5” with air ride.

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I went with  Scarebird adapters then cannibalized a 76 Riviera for everything from the booster to the pads.  The entire system is engineered to work together.  Plus all of the parts are available at your local jobber.  If you need work done on the road, you're probably only down for a day or less.  No telling how long it might take Wilwood to get a part to Wheeling, WV.

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21 hours ago, DualQuadDave said:

I have installed one Wilwood kit on a Riv and will never use them again. I have installed Wilwood on a bunch of other cars, Vette's, Mustang's, etc. Hate them. Lots of bling and not much performance. Their tech support is highly lacking also. If you want killer brakes that work, go with the Scarebird kit w/ rebuilt stock GM Caddy calipers. Best kit going, by far. 

Wow! That’s good to know then. 

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19 hours ago, RivNut said:

I went with  Scarebird adapters then cannibalized a 76 Riviera for everything from the booster to the pads.  The entire system is engineered to work together.  Plus all of the parts are available at your local jobber.  If you need work done on the road, you're probably only down for a day or less.  No telling how long it might take Wilwood to get a part to Wheeling, WV.

Well looks like I’ll be going with the scarebird kit. When you say you cannibalized everything, even the brake cylinder or did you upgrade that with a different one? Also with this kit were you able to keep original rally wheels or did you upgraded your wheels as well Ed? 

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19 hours ago, sixxer said:

He’s right, disk brakes pushed my track width out 1/4” total (1/8” each side). I already had them on before I got my wheels so I could check the specs before hand. I’m running 20” by 8.5” with air ride.

Are your wheels staggered or running both at 20” by 8.5”? I was considering ridler wheels but 20” by 10” in rear and 20”by 8.5” front. 

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8 minutes ago, Mass9192 said:

Are your wheels staggered or running both at 20” by 8.5”? I was considering ridler wheels but 20” by 10” in rear and 20”by 8.5” front. 

Staggered 20”x10.5” in rear

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17 minutes ago, Mass9192 said:

Well looks like I’ll be going with the scarebird kit. When you say you cannibalized everything, even the brake cylinder or did you upgrade that with a different one? Also with this kit were you able to keep original rally wheels or did you upgraded your wheels as well Ed? 

You can run the 1967 and later code 853 with the disk brakes but not the earlier code 802 rims.  The rims from the 1971 - 1978 years, code 895, will also work with disk brakes.

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11 minutes ago, RivNut said:

You can run the 1967 and later code 853 with the disk brakes but not the earlier code 802 rims.  The rims from the 1971 - 1978 years, code 895, will also work with disk brakes.

Where is the code imprinted on the rim to check and see which ones I have? 

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18 minutes ago, sixxer said:

Staggered 20”x10.5” in rear

Ok cool! 

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28 minutes ago, Mass9192 said:

Where is the code imprinted

This code is stamped near the wheel size stamp on the inside surface of the wheel (area covered by tire when it is mounted.)

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32 minutes ago, NC68Riviera said:

This code is stamped near the wheel size stamp on the inside surface of the wheel (area covered by tire when it is mounted.)

Ok thanks!

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It's cheaper, faster, and you'll have close to the same performance if you restore the original drum system. This ain't a Chevy with 4" drums.

 

Besides, spending a lot of time and money to make a car worth less is a peculiar investment strategy. ;) 

 

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, KongaMan said:

same performance if you restore the original drum system

I had my drum brake system updated with new wheel cylinders, fluid, springs, master cylinder and brake shoes. The drums still had enough lining to be used.

My 4400# 68 Riviera stops on a dime! (well, a short row of dimes, that is!)

Edited by NC68Riviera (see edit history)

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You can outwardly identify the 895's by the profile.  The center, where the cap fits, is sticks out farther than the edge of the rim.  Lay a straight edge across the rim and see if the center is higher.  You can ID the other two with tires on them by looking at the back.  The 853's have a profile what will allow for a disk brake caliper, the 802's don't.  I'll post a picture later so you can see the differences.

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21 minutes ago, NC68Riviera said:

I had my drum brake system updated with new wheel cylinders, fluid, springs, master cylinder and brake pads. The drums still had enough lining to be used.

My 4400# 68 Riviera stops on a dime! (well a short row of dimes, that is!)

 

You think those brakes are good now. Wait until you make 5 panic stops in a row on a 110 degree day.... on a wet road.

 

I am getting ready to do a proper brake job on my '64 Riviera drums. I have considered the multiple panic stop benefits of disc's, but one panic stop kind of slows me down for the rest of the day. At least I have been listening to the promotions.

Bernie

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, RivNut said:

You can outwardly identify the 895's by the profile.  The center, where the cap fits, is sticks out farther than the edge of the rim.  Lay a straight edge across the rim and see if the center is higher.  You can ID the other two with tires on them by looking at the back.  The 853's have a profile what will allow for a disk brake caliper, the 802's don't.  I'll post a picture later so you can see the differences.

Here are the pictures.

 

802 on the top, 853 on the bottom.  You can see the differences if you look closely at the webs where they meet the outer face. This particular 802 has grey painted webs. The face of the 802 next to the "spoke" is almost a straight line.  The face of the 853 steps down at the bolt hole.

 

20190416_144011.thumb.jpg.901eb312d6ec99a40c22634ca2f763bf.jpg20190416_144015.thumb.jpg.e3f47e381fdf8e32d6e07ca221e90af9.jpg

 

 

on the back side, the 802 goes at an angle to the bolt face, the 853 runs almost perpendicular. Just been told I've reached my limit.  I'll try again later.

 

 

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)
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Resized

802 with angled back side

20190416_144040.thumb.jpg.42d567198b2ccff5be3eeff55e19fc44.jpg

 

853 with almost perpendicular back side.  You can imagine where the disk brake caliper would set.

 

Also take note. Both of these wheels still have the register ring in place.  They will only go on a 65 or later hub.

 

20190416_144044.thumb.jpg.5ab3645a45fdb0d21b2dcfb1c97c48c8.jpg

 No need to dismount those tires now.

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