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Everything posted by DualQuadDave

  1. Call Tim @ Rivi Central. Tell time Dave in SoFlo sent you. He is the only one w/ good sheetmetal right now to my knowledge.
  2. Call Clark's Corvair. They make the best Upholstery for Riv's, by far. Be prepared to replace the opgi covers in about a year or two, IF you get the length issue sorted. They come apart quick under use. I have installed a few sets and have seen it personally.
  3. I have an ST300 if you need one. From a 66 Skylark 300 engine
  4. Congrats! Looks like a nice car. If you get it and change your mind, hit me up. I still like it for a project myself.
  5. I liked it enough to message seller. Usual "I'm not tellin" reserve bs. Blah blah blah. Guess it's not sellin...
  6. Yes, that is known about the 401's and the 2 marine ones I have worked on, one had hooks, other did not. The one that did not, had markings. The 425 w/ hooks I had was definitely marine, even without the previous owner saying. Had nearly no wear on the cyl walls, but full of rust. Cooling system was worse cond I had ever seen on a Nailhead. I tried to save it, but was just too much damage to try and fix. Had the nicest original bore I have ever seen. Crosshatching was perfect.
  7. The 425 I had that had the hooks and no marks was directly out of a boat as the owner told me as such, as he had swapped it many years before. I have worked on a couple of marine 401's afterwards and one was marked and one not marked. Also, as far as hooked motors in cars, I have seen the same also. It would make sense that if Buick went through all the trouble of changing tooling to cast w/ hook vs w/o, then why not just use same block in auto applications if an order needed filled. Seems common sense. I would agree the service would have no marks, that also would make sense.
  8. It's a marine Nailhead, as in out of a boat. I owned one identical from a 65 Riv, funny enough. The loops are for install, as the motor has to lowered into the hull. Tell you buddy to rebuild the motor, whether he thinks it needs it or not. Very few marine Nailheads survived because the steady high rpm yanked the pin out of the bottom of piston and then will take out everything immediately after. This is what happened to my marine Nailhead and is very common.
  9. yes, have hardware and covers. Text me, will text pics to you.
  10. I have a set of black front 65 retracable belts if you can use those as cores to re-web.
  11. i am getting a complete 55 Special w/ a complete power steerig system. PM me
  12. Should just be a door adjustment. However, if they block sanded the car like that, it'll never be perfect even if you get it in proper alignment. Ask me how I know, lol.
  13. I would not say the LS motors are unreliable, far from it. Do they have ther issues, sure, all motors do. I build them also and the blocks are good up to 1400hp and I have personally put 227k on my LS2 TBSS turning 7000rpm everyday until I accidently ran it low on oil and spun a bearing. I have worked on a myraid of junkyard LS's, w/ cam only builds, turbo's, you name it. I build Nailheads also, and they are fantastic, but even a highend build I would expect about 150k and they will need to be gone back through, mostly for ring/valve guide wear and mostly due to carb vs injection.
  14. Nuts is 25k for an original dual carb setup for Z28. I have seen Weber set-ups for 7k. I just saw a beautiful carbon fiber intake for a new LS7 for $5500. $4200 is cheap for what you get.
  15. If you are going to put it on a Riv, I would stay factory, or at least factory intake just for the nice packaging and it will increase the cars value.
  16. Price is all condition and how complete you want it. Pm me, I have some of parts you need and I have a 64 KX Riv for reference.
  17. The slop is caused by the gear wearing and/or the backing plate the gear riding on popping loose. It's a potmetal housing with a steel plate and eventually they just work loose. Plan on buying gears as if you have not already replaced them, they will need it either way. Sometimes you can drill/tap the potmetal housing and reattach plate w/ screws. That's if the potmetal has not totally disintegrated.
  18. James makes some of his own parts and resell's some others.
  19. Tom, I gave up on the Taylors a long time ago. The boots would come apart often. The MSD's have been tough and there is no comparison from a resistance standpoint. Try them, you'll like them.
  20. The rear carb is definitely a 65-66 carb, probably a 3925s. Front carb is a correct 3645, but could be an s, sa, or sb revision. The throttle arm changed length on the sa and sb to a longer arm. Only the 64's had the s, from what I have seen. FYI, ditch that chrome fuel pressure regulator, you do not need it. Carbs need to run at 6-7psi.
  21. Use MSD StreetFire wire and make your own. None of the pre-made kits fit right. The Streetfire is 8mm and you can just barely squeeze them in a stock wire holder. They are good wire, 0 resistance. I have tried almost everywire wire out there, these were the best.