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About DualQuadDave

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  • Birthday 07/15/1977

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  1. You do the math. More liquid capacity is better. More surface area is better. Bigger is better. Why is this so hard????
  2. Capacity always equals more cooling. Sure there are small 4 row and big 2 row cores, but in general, more is better, also for surface area to dissipate the heat. I know, I've put in over 100 radiators in all types of hot rods, customs and race cars and spec my own custom rods when necessary.
  3. I have the trim you need and I should have the electrical and engine parts also. DM me
  4. I have a few, DM me. I can ship out of Miami. I have shipped Nailheads to NZ before.
  5. Engine Pro is China crap. It works, but get Melling parts if you can. I have a new SA Gear set I can sell if you need one. Be prepared to destroy the front cover if either of the 2 long top bolts break off when you start removing. Go slooooooowwwww when breaking the top cover bolts around the water pump loose, the operating oil will only sorta work. It's more luck, than anything else and being patient breaking everything loose. Do a new water pump, it's cheap, why not. Check your timing mark on the balancer while you have it off, also.
  6. How much for everything? To split it up is a shame. If you need a manifold alone, I may have one. DM me
  7. Rupert was selling his 65 Riv. Might check with him.
  8. IMO, your buddy is not going to find a nice Riv that cheap. He is about 2-3 years too late. 20-25k will buy what he wants, but he is going to have to look hard. Otherwise, it's all pretty on the internet until it shows up...
  9. If all checks out, get a handheld vacuum pump and check the vacuum modulator and vacuum advance on the distributor. Start the motor and isolate the brake booster. See if the driveable problem goes away. Remember, there is a lot of rubber diaphragms as old as the car waiting to fail. Also, is it an AC car? There are 3 diaphragms alone on the firewall for that and all will break/fail. To me, sounds like a vacuum problem without being there.
  10. Do a Pertronix and their matching coil. DO BOTH! I have seen old coils cause a LOT of weird driveable problems that you would never guess. You can say whatever you want about points, but there is a reason they got phased out. FYI, I prefer the Pertronix 3, but all of them work good. PS: If you want the best ignition possible, send your dist out for a Dave's Small Body HEI conversion. All American parts, 50k volts+ and reliable. Can be fixed at any auto parts store if necessary. No dwell meter needed All the advice for the chain is good too. If it hasn't been done, just do it so no headaches later.
  11. The pulleys you need are on eBay right now.
  12. The hard part is not boring it, it's getting rings in a proper oversize. Pistons are easy, I do Custom forged in all my builds. Going bigger than .060 on a 401 is ok, just need to have the block sonic checked to make there is not core shift issues. Let me check on the rings and will get back to you.
  13. If you need it, I have some parking assemblies. Let me know if you need one side or both. That's neat you have early ones. I have never seen those. DM me with contact info.
  14. Well if the user needs me too, I can match balance his balancer to mine if he has a 322. Yes, of course the balance needs to remain the same from A to B. I will help anyone with fitment as the requests come in. Thanks